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I have a 2002 Renault Clio 1.4 petrol. Because it's french poo poo it has an electrical fault, it's a bit weird. When I brake the rear window high brake light thing doesn't light up, and on my dash one of the things that indicates the rear foglights are on illuminates very dimly. The other weird electrical problem I have is sometimes the SERV and airbag lights on my dash illuminate and stay lit, but going around a roundabout fast turns it back off. Where do I start?
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Mar 16, 2015 17:58
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| # ¿ May 9, 2024 06:00 |
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Is there a site that lists the numbers of each car that are still on the road? Particularly interested in the UK and europe.
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Jan 6, 2018 11:43
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My cars headlights were all crappy, hazy and covered in some kind of tree slime. So I went at them with some wet and dry sandpaper, started at 800 and worked my way through a few to 2000. I cleaned them off quite a bit and then sprayed on some clearcoat, however a couple hours later I noticed it's started raining really hard, I had a look at the headlights and now they look slightly grey and cloudy. Will I be ok, is there something else I should do?
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Nov 12, 2018 20:40
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My car (renault clio) has been sat for a long time, I reconnected the battery and started it back up which was fine, but when I pushed the clutch in there was no resistance, moving the gearstick resulted in that horrible krkrkr noise and when I lifted my foot off the clutch the pedal stayed down. What has probably broken and/or what do I check next? edit: I checked the clutch cable is still connected to the pedal, I looked under the bonnet and I think it's still connected there but I wasn't so sure what I was looking at under there.
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Nov 26, 2018 15:46
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spog posted:Check you have clutch fluid in the reservoir. It may have dripped away whilst standing and you might get away with topping it up Great news, my stepdad spoke to a mechanic who advised me to give the clutch cable an almighty yank, now getting into and out of gear fine.
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Nov 26, 2018 18:29
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I have a 2002 Renault Clio 1.4 16V, it had a problem where it wouldn't start, it'd click but not turn the starter. I went and checked all the fuses with a multimeter, cleaned some corrosion off one of the fuses and now it starts, HOORAY! However when the car is running the battery isn't getting any charge from the alternator, I used my multimeter to check the voltage on the battery terminals and it's 12.35V with the engine running even when i got my stepdad to rev it up to 4000. turning the lights on dropped it to 11.8V. Is there likely any fuse that would stop the alt from getting upto charging voltage, it's very hard to get to the alternator so what should I be checking next? I considered maybe the rectifier module, or alternator brushes could be at fault, would there be any fuse that stop the system charging?
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Aug 25, 2019 18:39
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StormDrain posted:I would stand to reason if one connection wasn't working due to corrosion, then multiple connections could use a cleaning. I can follow the logic on this, I'll have another go at fuse contact cleaning tomorrow. MrYenko posted:Is there a fuse on the alternator field circuit? I’ve never worked on anything that had one, but I’ve heard of them. I peeped the wiring diagram in the haynes manual, and I couldn't work it out.
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Aug 25, 2019 21:20
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From yesterdays alternator thingy I went and cleaned some fuses, I put the key in the ignition and the little battery symbol doesn't light up when it should. Using a flashlight to get a better peek at the alternator I noticed there's the little plug thingy plugged into the back and it looks like it should have 2 wires, but i can only see one plugged in, and the other thing looks like it had a green wire that snapped. It's real tight I can only just fit my fat arm down to the connector between the engine and front bumper.
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Aug 26, 2019 17:31
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How do they do the axles for 6 or 8 wheel drive vehicles, is there some kind of hierarchy of differentials or something?
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Feb 15, 2020 22:33
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I was driving home on the motorway yesterday when there was a loud crack, and then I saw i had a crack in my windscreen.  It was hard to get my phone to focus on it at all, but it's about 1.5" across on the tips of the crack lines, will a chip repair thing fix it, and get it to where it can pass an MOT?
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Jul 29, 2020 10:39
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I saw a video on "budack" engines, where to be more efficient they close the intake valve before the piston reaches BDC, this apparently gives the fuel air mixture different compression and expansion ratios. How is this different or more efficient than just part throttle opening which also reduces the mass of air-fuel mix?
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Feb 3, 2021 17:37
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I'm still a bit confused and probably misunderstand something, the piston in a budack still travels the same distance right? it's just the cylinder gets closed at say... 70% of the stroke? So if I imagine a cylinder in my car (at WOT) will draw in 100 grams of air in ordinary operation, under the budack cycle the valve closes at 70% of the stroke and draws in 70 grams of air, but the piston keeps going down, reaches BDC and comes up and compresses the 70g of air and fuel mix. If my cylinder had a throttle opening of 70% and drew in 70g of air and fuel but this time the valve stays open for the whole down stroke, that to me seems to be the same thing? Obviously those are numbers I pulled out of my rear end, I don't know if my car draws in 100g of air and I don't know that closing the valve at 70% duration or restricting with a throttle at "70%" will equally deliver the exact same air fuel mix with those specific values, but it seems like you could have the same mass of air in a cylinder with either strategy, i don't understand how a partial cylinder fill from either one actually gives you the separate expansion ratio, and the other one doesn't?
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Feb 3, 2021 18:42
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I was thinking, temperature extremes shorten battery lives don't they, so do cars with the batt in the trunk have longer lasting batteries than ones under the hood?
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Jul 20, 2021 15:25
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OK because of the plague i haven't driven my car (2002 renault clio 1.4) in a long time, now the clutch pedal goes right to the floor and if I move the gearstick it makes horrible noises and the clutch pedal doesn't return. If I pull the clutch cable under the bonnet the pedal returns, but the little arm coming of the gearbox seems slack. What happened to it and what do I do next?
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Jul 21, 2021 13:40
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Occasionally I see a classic land rover or classic range rover for sale at less than usual money and it says the engine is wrecked or has been taken out for some project or whatever. Here in the UK you can pick up a car with a 2.0 diesel fairly cheap and I sometimes think if I had a workshop I'd buy it and put in a modern-ish diesel engine. What kind of MPG would a classic land rover get if you put a 2.0-2.5 car diesel like from a mondeo or a VW in it? Has any goon done a project like this, what's the kind of minimum viable workshop for an engine swap?
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Sep 12, 2021 01:06
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| # ¿ May 9, 2024 06:00 |
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I spent quite a long time borrowing a car from family so i could get to work and such, I went and bought a 2011 BMW 320D off a guy at work. I can use the remote to unlock it but pressing the lock, but locking it doesn't seem to work, I have to pull out the little physical key and lock it like a grandpa. The car I was borrowing, I parked it at work and got blocked in one time and had to drive over some grass and then off a curb. The curb was taller than I realised so there was kind of a horrible crunch and grinding noise, I guess it will have scraped paint off underneath the car, maybe something else? What do I check and what do I do?
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Mar 21, 2024 18:57
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