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Is the driveshaft connected? If the drivewheels are in the air you could have someone keep some light pressure on the shifter while you spin the drivewheels until it lines up and shifts.
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Feb 21, 2015 21:55
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ROFLburger posted:So I got the car assembled and running. drove around the block, but could not engage reverse. I tried a few things and found that while stationary, cycling into a few of the drive gears before attempting to engage reverse does the trick. Popping it into 1st -> 2nd -> 6th (or whatever) and then reverse engages perfectly smooth. Anyone know what the hell that's all about? Is engaging the other gears first like slightly rotating the shaft enough to get dog teeth in on reverse? That doesn't seem abnormal if it's the usual setup where reverse uses a sliding idler gear. What I do to get mine into gear on flat ground is to push the clutch all the way in and hold the shifter in the reverse position, then slowly let the clutch out just enough for it to grab a little and spin the gear into alignment. If you're on an incline you keep the clutch in and just let the car roll downhill slowly to align the gear.
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Feb 23, 2015 03:03
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Is this a car you are currently driving? You should really both drums at the same time.
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Mar 1, 2015 06:24
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Can Ford dealerships look up the key cuts for a car based on the VIN? I need to get more copies of the key to my zx2, but they only key I have for it is a beat up non-original.
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Mar 5, 2015 06:54
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Followup on the key thing: Model year 2001 cars are too old for Ford to lookup the key info by VIN. Just gonna get a copy of a copy made at home depot or similar.
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Mar 6, 2015 23:53
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I would take it somewhere else to get it fixed. Don't reward them by paying them to unfuck whatever they did to it.
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Mar 11, 2015 19:07
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Speaking of steering feel, I've got some slight oscillating in my steering wheel at 60+mph. What I mean is I can feel the steering wheel alternate between pulling slightly left and right, and the speed it alternates changes with vehicle speed. Is this a needs alignment/worn out rubber suspension bits issue? Car is 2001 ford zx2.
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Mar 23, 2015 19:20
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EightBit posted:Yikes, sounds like worn out steering components. Not something that should be put off. Which parts do you mean? The steering rack itself or the connecting stuffs?
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Mar 23, 2015 23:03
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I've got a misfire code on my '04 dakota again. Last time I changed out all the spark plugs (they were pretty old) and the ignition coil for the cylinder(coil-on-plug design) and it didn't come back. Also the truck hasn't been driven in almost two months, but I don't know if that would contribute to it at all. The check engine light came on within a minute of me starting the engine. I don't know why theres a pending temperature related code, torque was showing a normal temperature when I plugged the reader in. What should I check next for that misfire?
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Mar 28, 2015 22:44
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Fucknag posted:Is it the same cylinder as before? Did you replace all the coil packs, or just the one that was misfiring at the time? Same cylinder. I only replaced the one that was misfiring.
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Mar 28, 2015 23:12
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some texas redneck posted:Kickass, I'm glad he was able to help you out. He's good people. I didn't have the reader on me while it was running so I had to run in and grab it. When I checked it the temp was 100C. It should be at 95C, but I've noticed that temps can rise a little right after the engine gets shut off so it was probably close.
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Mar 29, 2015 03:32
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Does fuel injector cleaner that gets mixed in the gas tank actually work?
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Mar 30, 2015 22:25
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If I want to replace all the bushings in my suspension do I have to buy all new parts? Like right here rockauto has control arms with new bushings, but I can't find a listing for the bushings alone. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1420490&parttype=10401 Pretty much all of the rubber bits in the suspension have some cracks in them and I'd like to replace it.
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Apr 5, 2015 19:57
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I want to try buying and mounting my own tires, but the wheels are non-OEM and I don't know their dimensions.  These are the tires+wheels that have been on it since I bought the car. What tire sizes should I be able to fit on those wheels? PS: on a scale of 1 to "you're already blownout", how hard is it to mount your own tires?
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Apr 10, 2015 21:14
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I was planning on getting one of those spring balancers with the bubble level on it to balance them from harbor freight, but I don't have any tire tools either. Do they have those at HF too?
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Apr 10, 2015 21:30
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Okay so these should fit right? These are the cheapest summer tires they show for that size: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...romCompare1=yes It's 195/55R15 instead of 195/60R15. Also tire rack says the stock size for my car was 185/60R15, so the radius would be 4mm off from the factory setup.
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Apr 10, 2015 22:16
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Extra posted:We can't know if they fit properly without knowing your wheel width. They're probably 15x6 but we don't know unless you go measure them. Everything but the aspect ratio is the same on the old and new tires. I can't find a size on the wheels anywhere so I tried measuring the width from the rim of the wheel. It's about 8 inches wide.
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Apr 10, 2015 22:40
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Is there a way to make tirerack let me choose sizes and bolt patterns manually? I want to buy a 15' 4x100mm pattern steel wheel but it only shows them in 14' for my car.
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Apr 11, 2015 01:39
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EightBit posted:It looks like you'll have to shop by brand to pick the wheel size and bolt pattern. I ended up doing it by finding a listing online of what cars came with which wheels size + bolt patterns. Ended up setting my vehicle to a chevy colbalt instead of my actual car and it brought up 15' 4x100mm steelies like I wanted it to in the first place.  Picking up the 5 tires and the steelie from their distribution center monday. RIP 453 dollars
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Apr 11, 2015 02:57
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Extra posted:iirc the cobalt has a 57.1mm hub bore and the zx2 has a 54.1mm hub bore. You may want to get some hub centric rings if you feel a vibration at highway speeds. Doesn't the conical shape of the lug nuts center the wheel?
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Apr 11, 2015 03:45
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Does it have any kind of switch or sensor screwed into it higher than the fill plug? It could have been filled through a speed sensor or something if that's mounted on top.
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Apr 17, 2015 16:11
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I need to change out the flexible portion of my front right brake line because it has a cut in one of the outer layers. This is the line that goes there: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=965662&cc=1420490&jnid=530&jpid=4 The end on the right goes with a banjo bolt to feed the caliper, but what kind of connection is the other end? All of the pics in that category are tiny. The car is a 2001 ford zx2.
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Apr 22, 2015 19:44
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Thanks. I'm gonna replace all the flexible lines since they original.
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Apr 22, 2015 19:53
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Extra posted:what's the worst that could happen if I "fix" a very slightly bent (e: alloy) wheel with a propane torch and a 4 lb deadblow hammer? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uScd7nFzfQE
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May 21, 2015 04:33
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Anyone know where the engine block coolant plug is on Ford's 2.0L zetec engines? The dedicated zx2 forums are garbage.
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May 25, 2015 22:24
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How do I determine which clutch cylinder failed on a car? The fluid level in the resevoir hasn't dropped at all. If I push the pedal to the floor the clutch will disengage like normal, but will slowly re-engage while I hold it there and the pedal becomes soft. After I let it come all the way back up the pedal firms up again.
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Oct 26, 2015 16:52
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IOwnCalculus posted:Master. The slave doesn't have anywhere for leaking fluid to neatly return back into the system, so a failure should always manifest as a leak. The master can leak fluid from the high-pressure side back to the return, keeping the fluid level constant. Thanks.
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Oct 26, 2015 17:17
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Where can I find threaded plugs for the ports of a master cylinder? I can't find any leaks and the system has been pressure bled, but the brake pedal is still kinda spongy. The car is a 2001 Ford zx2.
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Apr 7, 2016 20:30
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Motronic posted:What are you trying to do here? Actually plug up the ports so you can.......see if the brake pedal falls when you jam on it? Yeah I was going to jam on the pedal with it plugged up to see if it's a problem with the master cylinder. By brake hoses do you mean all the lines or just the flexible bits? I replaced the flexible sections with new stuff months ago because the old stuff was tearing at the outermost layer.
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Apr 8, 2016 06:45
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Memento posted:The flexible brake hoses are what wears out, they get soft and expand under pressure, making the brakes spongy. The solid lines are either fine, or leak, so if you're not noticing a leak then don't worry about them. It's not the first time it's been flushed since I bought it, but the fluid in the reservoir was kind of dark and cloudy looking. The last flush was in January 2015.
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Apr 8, 2016 07:16
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Crossposting:SperginMcBadposter posted:Something I noticed after the adjuster was set is that the pistons don't extend out far enough to contact the shoes when at rest (it's like this for both wheels) Is that normal for drum brakes?
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Apr 11, 2016 16:55
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StormDrain posted:Have you compared old and new wheel cylinders? The adjuster is right below the wheel cylinder on this setup 
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Apr 11, 2016 17:44
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Dog Jones posted:I didn't scratch the poo poo out of gently caress though. There was one scratch the size of my index finger, that may have been there from before for all I know. I thought I was being neighborly by leaving my information. I don't know what this fog lamps bullshit is, no way did I gently caress with her fog lamps at all. Hazardous waste disposal fee? Why the gently caress am I paying them to throw a bunch of poo poo out. Anything I pay for better go on that stupid loving bumper as far as I'm concerned. The cop even said that it should buff out which I presume would be cheaper than this poo poo? I swear though its hit and runs from here on out. Why did you even bother asking if you're just going to flip your poo poo at everyone who doesn't tell you what you wanted to hear?
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Apr 26, 2016 06:57
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Does anyone have a link to the big effortpost about replacing battery terminal clamps that was in here? Mine are eaten up by corrosion.
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Aug 10, 2016 04:56
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Thanks
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Aug 10, 2016 19:03
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Does extreme heat cut how much current a car battery can put out? I drove up to my school and left the car sitting out in 92 degree heat and direct sunlight for about an hour. It took two tries to start it after that and it sounded like it was turning over slower than normal speed. The battery is new and the charging system seems to be working (was staying around 14.2 volts during the drive back home). Voltage at the battery with the car off and key out is 12.85, 12.65 with the car off and key in the on position. Got the same measurements at the OBD port with a multimeter.
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Aug 24, 2016 20:30
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I had the timing belt and pulleys/tensioner replaced on my 2001 ford zx2, and the timing belt is slowly working itself towards the front of the sprockets/pulleys. I've been taking the timing cover off and pushing it back towards the middle of the sprockets before each drive. Is there a trick to setting the tension just right so it doesn't walk itself free? The tensioner model looks like the GATES T43003 on this page: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2001,escort,2.0l+l4+dohc,1420490,engine,timing+belt+tensioner,5721 
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Jan 29, 2018 16:41
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Something isn't tightened up properly, or the tensioner or pulley is bent. Pull it off and/or shim it I guess? The shop might have overtightened it. I backed it off some and made the arrow point at the little window. The belt moved outwards a little right when I started the engine, but it stayed there while running and after stopping and starting the engine again. Good enough I guess  Before adjusting:  Running it after adjusting:   After I stopped it again (the thing is spring loaded and moved a little to the right while running) 
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Jan 29, 2018 20:53
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Have a weird rattling kinda noise coming from my 2001 ford zx2 sometimes. I was stopped and pushed the clutch in and put it in gear, and it started rattling. The noise only happens when the clutch is in and I have it in any gear. If I push the clutch in with it in neutral it doesnt do it.
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Apr 17, 2019 00:11
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 12:18 |
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brand engager posted:Have a weird rattling kinda noise coming from my 2001 ford zx2 sometimes. I was stopped and pushed the clutch in and put it in gear, and it started rattling. The noise only happens when the clutch is in and I have it in any gear. If I push the clutch in with it in neutral it doesnt do it. Got a recording of the noise. It's more of a scraping sound than rattling https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=itnxmhe-1uE
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Apr 17, 2019 01:20
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