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Maybe a vacuum leak? I assume ISCV is the idle speed control valve, else I would suggest maybe the IAC motor/valve, what I normally hear it called.Chief Savage Man posted:2014 VW Jetta Sportswagen 2.0L TDI 25k miles (its a working car) Hmmm. Sounds like exhaust noises - things that are hot and cool down quickly tend to make creaking clanking noises as they do so. As for the battery/alt light issue I bet the alternator didn't like the high RPMs today and packed it in, or at least the brushes for the field winding are now making intermittent contact.
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Feb 8, 2015 06:56
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Hmmmm. Yeah I am about out of ideas, it should compensate for power usage easily in closed loop idle. Does the intake air temp sensor show a sane reading? If it is reading way off, that can affect things just as much as a wonky MAP since both values are needed to calculate the mass of incoming air iirc. I would still expect it to compensate for that using the O2 sensor but you never know. Speaking of which, what are the long and short term fuel trims? E: now not so sure about the IAT thing, need to remember my stoich and gas laws I guess.
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Feb 8, 2015 07:07
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AquarianFire, the injectors weren't at fault, if they get told by the ECU to run that fast, they do. Something was screwy with the fuel management system and it probably wouldn't have cost that much to fix it, but oh well. I looked at the wiring diagrams and it appears that it was a modern engine with upstream catalytic converters and four oxygen sensors. If anything since half the engine was running rich I would have put my money on an upstream O2 sensor being worn out or damaged. The reason this causes stuff like that is that the oxygen sensors detect unburned oxygen in the exhaust. If one is reading the wrong value, or there's an exhaust leak that's letting in extra oxygen upstream of the sensor, they crank the fuel input up more to compensate for the "lean condition" they see, which doesn't help because the sensor's hosed or there's an air leak that's throwing the reading off, so you end up with every cylinder that sensor is reporting on running full-rich mode. Oh well - too late now. Next time, be aware at worst you could probably get a grand or two for it on craigslist if you felt like dealing with it, which is way more than junkyards pay. The problem here is that probably 99% of mechanics have no real idea how electronics or EFI systems work, and just throw expensive parts (which usually aren't the problem) until the customer either gets tired of spending money or they find the problem by accident. It's a bad state of things and I really wish it wasn't that way. Slavvy posted:Quoting for progress. Car runs with every sensor disconnected. Connecting them one by one led to not much change in idle until the engine temp sensor, which caused a noticeable drop (like 450-500rpm in D/R with low beams, indicator and windscreen wipers going). Guess I have to re-examine that, now. That's entirely expected, it's going from full high resistance, open circuit (usually reads as HOLY gently caress THIS ENGINE IS COLD AS HELL AHHHHHH FULL COLD START MAX INJECTOR PULSEWIDTH IMMEDIATELY) to a sane, up to temp CTS reading when you plug it in, so now it's acting like it knows what temp it's at. Now, why it's aiming so low for idle speed when warmed up, I have no loving clue. I don't know Toyota EFI that well.
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Feb 9, 2015 16:14
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Spinning one wheel for too long can also overload the hydrodynamic bearing (aka flats on the cross shaft that let oil in between the shaft and the spider gear bore) in the differential and friction weld the gears to the cross shaft. It's not common but it does happen, the weld is generally just strong enough to hold momentarily, then lets loose again and goodbye bits of drivetrain.
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Feb 9, 2015 22:33
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My understanding is that the "californian stores won't read codes" thing is an overly broad interpretation of "don't clear codes for people" or a ham handed smog law of some sort. The sad thing is that it's all loving pointless because you won't pass emissions checks if you show up with all your monitors reading "not ready" because you got a store employee to clear your codes anyways.
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Feb 10, 2015 17:15
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If they include a grease zerk and a hole to screw it into, you need to screw it in and fill it with grease at least once, and preferably regularly. If not, fill it with grease once and then put a threaded plug in instead of the zerk, if you leave the hole wide open it'll quickly fill with road debris and water and/or salt and ruin the new joint.Santheb posted:Hi guys. Hopefully this isn't too stupid a question, here goes. I checked and surprisingly rockauto doesn't list your pan. If you do get one from a junkyard make sure that it's from at least a RWD vehicle, preferably a Charger, as sometimes the front suspension and steering subsystems have a great impact on the shape of the oil pan in a vehicle and they may be different year to year.
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Feb 11, 2015 03:22
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There is no such thing as a cheap grease gun, or even a medium price grease gun, that isn't infuriating to try and get bled and then keep working, but it'll get you through at least half a TRE fill before it stops pumping grease and makes you want to whoop it into the dumpster. Or install it, install the grease zerk, go to valvoline instant oil change (or probably most other chain quicklubes, but that's the one I worked at and I know their services and when they were busy) at lunch hour on a sunday with a six pack and ask em to grease the steering/suspension grease zerks. Probably don't even need the six pack if there's a VIOC previous customer barcode sticker anywhere on the vehicle.
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Feb 11, 2015 04:15
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Keldoclock posted:Hello thread! I am a dumb kid who drives a 1994 Jeep Wrangler. Fucknag is pretty close, those engines use a CCV system not a PCV system but you can treat it the same. That is the fresh air side (the one at the back of the valve cover that goes to the intake is the metered vacuum side - note, metered by an orifice, not the MAF, don't worry about it as long as it is intact) and supplies atmospheric pressure air to the crankcase. As long as it doesn't pop out of the fittings it is perfectly fine, I usually stick a ziptie on mine if it has gotten old and loose and falls out of the fitting.
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Feb 11, 2015 14:44
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Ehhh, it has pretty low mileage and doesn't claim it's slipping. If it slips funny or shifts hard, be worried, otherwise I'd consider that van. It's got low enough mileage that you can probably flush the transmission with the right fluid and then keep on top of it and not beat on it and it'll last just fine. High mileage, already hosed trans, or hasn't been maintained properly? Run away. Also the wiring diagrams show info for manual ones, so you could probably convert it to manual with all factory parts if you really wanted to.
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Feb 12, 2015 22:49
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Probably not a bad ECU, that's fairly rare, but a blown fuse or a bad relay or a corroded/broken wire in the harness? Sure, happens sometimes. edit: alright, no DLC makes it a bit more likely that it's a junk ECU, but quite often the same relay powers the ECU and the injectors. I know a bad wire to the O2 sensor heaters on a jeep shorting to ground can pop the fuse that runs basically the entire EFI system including the ECU, because it's happened to me and a lot of people I know and that's the first fuse and wire I tell people to check. edit 2: I checked the wiring diagrams I have available and you should check the 15 amp fuses marked "AM2" and "EFI" in the engine compartment fuse box. Do you have 12 volts at one side of the injector plug? You should. They are all powered off those fuses and the ECU grounds the other side when it wants them to fire - so if there's no ground from the ECU, OR no 12 volts from the fuse, nothing happens. kastein fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Feb 13, 2015 |
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Feb 13, 2015 01:40
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AM2 is actually the one that runs the injectors, via one circuit of the ignition switch, a junction block located somewhere or other, and a few wires. The other one runs other very important stuff that's needed for the engine to fire, too. Here's the fuel system wiring diagram, in case you need it: http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=106716 Ignition system: http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=106715 That's all the really important stuff to run the engine, which sounds like the only issue with it.
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Feb 13, 2015 03:48
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Yes. Slime is good for a few things: Making the tire techs angry at you Making actual patches and plugs not stick as well unless you are careful about cleaning it allll off And glomming into a big wad in one spot in cold weather so your tire is unbalanced.
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Feb 14, 2015 20:12
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tuyop posted:My 2010 Mazda 3 Sport GS is making this terrible squealing metal-on-metal sound in the front driver side wheel well. I took a video. The brakes aren't being applied at all in the video, it's just rocking. It only does this when moving at low speed below 60kph, and it doesn't make any sound when stopped or revved. Steering makes no difference. Jack it up and take the wheel off and inspect things (take pictures of whatever you find that is making the noise, post them here) before you drive anywhere, because that could either be a heatshield that doesn't matter or you about to buy a steering knuckle, alignment, balljoint(s), CV axle, wheel bearing, rotor, and pads instead of just a wheel bearing. Oh, and a tow. Don't drive a car that makes noises like that unless you know exactly what's wrong and are prepared to repair it on the spot, because it only gets expensive from there on in. I've seen all the above parts either destroyed or not removable from other parts that got destroyed after someone drove with a failing wheel bearing. Since it was all rusted together we also ended up replacing a half dozen alignment cam bolts and suspension bushings just because they got ruined taking the whole thing apart.
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Feb 16, 2015 16:43
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Bring it to a shop.
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Feb 17, 2015 02:12
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Check the balljoint, too. If it is dried up (no grease) and/or rusted, ask me how that ends if you ignore it for long enough. I think those are a different design from the 90s ones so at least the entire weight of the vehicle isn't on the balljoint, but it's bad to let them seize regardless.
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Feb 19, 2015 19:51
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 *checks thread title* hoo boy that sure is a stupid question. I am going to try to be nice here. You're looking at the back of the mirror. And the other side of the thing it mounts to on the door. Those aren't things you compare. Note that there isn't a big round cutout around the electrical connector in the middle, either.
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Feb 20, 2015 01:18
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melon cat posted:No, I think you've got it mixed up. The picture I posted isn't the back of the mirror. I've compared the old and new parts side-by-side, and the aftermarket replacement I got is definitely missing a hole for one of the panel's three fasteners. Go take it to a shop like I said to in the first place. There is a reason I said that. I do not have it mixed up, I'd put money on it. In fact I noted that you're comparing the back of the mirror to the door, which you said right after saying I was comparing the wrong things. I mean, I've only changed mirrors out on something like a dozen different kinds of cars now, and never took more than 15 minutes to do any of them. Also, what Slavvy said... I don't give a poo poo that it's "missing" one of the holes. It literally doesn't matter. So is the factory one, I bet, if you would spend the time to pull it off. You are comparing two parts that don't need to be compared, because you don't understand what's going on and the reason there are two holes in the part is because that part of it is close enough to the door mounting footprint that the plastic clips for the interior panel would interfere, while the top hole misses the mirror assembly entirely because it steps back above it. If you spent another 2 minutes to unbolt the mirror and compare and/or just bolt the new one on and move on with life, you would notice this, instead of wasting our time with another incredibly dull question that shows you don't know what you are doing at all. I'm sorry dude but I am completely out of patience. I've answered a LOT of your questions in this thread and the previous one. You worry about poo poo like keeping your axle nuts covered, like it matters (hint: it doesn't), and it takes you an hour (even after being told how to do it) to fail to remove a plastic trim piece that it takes most people 30 seconds to pop out. I get that you want to do this, but it might be time to admit to yourself that you have no idea what you are doing and should stick to things you are good at, or just take extra time and pull it apart and spend some time thinking about how the things fit together and why something was designed that way before asking questions. For example, I have absolutely no aptitude for singing or gymnastics, which is why I'm not insistently annoying the good people in the threads on those subjects with pointless questions no one else needs to ask. Rant over. Just to drive my point home, I found an original factory OEM part on ebay. Look at the first and third shots in this picture. Note that it is exactly as I said, and exactly like the part you are not putting on because you didn't bother to pull the old one off and compare before asking yet another useless question, then telling me I'm wrong about this. After all, I have no idea what I am talking about and have never done this before.  (click for big)
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Feb 20, 2015 09:35
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Ozmiander posted:If you can't answer stupid questions without getting mad, then don't. I've been answering his questions for literally years without that kind of response. I don't like being told I am wrong by someone who doesn't know what they're talking about when I know I'm right and further, can prove it. My apologies. You know my response to stupid questions is not normally like this, the most I give people is usually a little ribbing, which is what I expect in turn when I ask a stupid question. If IOC feels I have said anything amiss, he can probate me. I'm not arguing it further.
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Feb 20, 2015 17:46
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Not really, sadly. That sucks, but at least it was a 350 dollar lesson. There are many more expensive ways to learn that, like newer vehicles or real estate. The proper way to do this (it does depend on state somewhat, and this isn't probably literally the proper way, but it's what I'd do) is to sign the title over, but retain it, give the buyer a photocopy of it, sign a bill of sale with them stating that there is a $150 deposit in place and they have x days to pay the remainder, title and vehicle to be handed over upon receipt of payment in full, and state that you will file for a replacement title (keeping this as proof of your right to do so) and sell it to someone else if they don't come through. Call the police and report it, but don't expect anything.
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Feb 20, 2015 18:27
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You are fine. Most engines are fine with half to 1 liter extra, at least in my experience. Idle it, check the oil with it running, if there is foamy oil on the dipstick drain a little out.
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Feb 21, 2015 02:34
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A couple is fine (the oil is splattering all over, it's gonna happen) but any persistent aeration is a bad sign. Also, any serious moisture or emulsion, especially if you have been having unexplained coolant loss. You won't get an accurate level reading with it running unless the instructions say to do that, but it'll tell you if the level is so high it's getting aerated by the crank.
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Feb 21, 2015 18:05
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Did you do the rebuild or have it rebuilt? The reverse idler's dog tooth tips are probably a bit blunted, as well as the ones they mesh with. I would ignore it unless reverse stops working entirely. Next time you do a mantrans remember to check (or have them checked) the condition of those teeth. E: mine have all done that too, because I am too cheap to buy new gears for that and am used to it. If the vehicle has a reverse lockout make sure you swing through center neutral before going to reverse or it will block you by design, and it probably only needs to be put in one random forward gear before going into reverse as this realigns the gears slightly using the synchros for that gear so it is more likely to go into reverse on the next try. I usually used third or fourth for that. kastein fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Feb 23, 2015 |
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Feb 23, 2015 03:18
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There are a number of states that require so little paperwork that if you find the previous registration in it, you could probably track the owner down, get him to sign a bill of sale, and go register it in those states and get a clean title or at least some sort of title. I know multiple people who have done this even with a vehicle that was salvage titled previously. Just so no one jumps on me over title laundering... here is one of them today. The rest are about the same story*. It's quite clear to anyone looking at them that they are NOT original, clean, no-damage vehicles. It's just kinda hard to get something like that through a salvage inspection in Massachusetts, ya know?  * totaled by some dumb accident, serious unibody damage, reborn as bad rear end offroad rigs with fully plated chassis, cages, custom suspension, just need to be marginally road legal to make it from trailhead to trailhead in backwoods towns on long trips.
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Feb 25, 2015 04:11
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Looks about right. Basically the title he's holding is worthless as you know and the last owner of record needs to file for a new one and sell it to you instead. Anyone claiming that just the bill of sale and the marked up title are good enough is either lying through their teeth, incredibly stupid and/or gullible, or has never actually gone to the DMV. I see retards and jerks trying to pull this poo poo on facebook auto groups all the time, and other even dumber retards and jerks falling for it or assuming it will work because they want it to.
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Feb 25, 2015 17:49
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The other thing to be aware of is that shops range from downright incompetent to actively looking to gently caress you when it comes to transmission stuff. The number of perfectly fine autos that have been rebuilt because AAMCO has no loving idea how to diagnose an electronic automatic transmission control system is probably in the 5 figures now, at least. Pull the codes (the CEL is on, right?) and post the list of numbers here. That'll at least get you started on what the issue is.
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Feb 28, 2015 00:02
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I believe Weathertech are generally cited as the best brand out there but haven't tried them myself.
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Mar 5, 2015 05:20
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Getting a car out of ice: have people help push.InitialDave posted:You likely don't even need to go to the dealer. In my experience, well practiced key cutters can often know what a key should be based on looking at it, which made me go Depends. If the guide slots/keyways that keep the key centered in the hole are also worn, or you have to shake the key to get the door to open, often a new copy of the old key won't work. Fifth generation faxed mimeographed keys suck. Get one new key at the dealer or a locksmith, bring it directly to home depot, have it copied 3 times. Two rubber handles, one flat metal. Flat metal goes in your wallet in case you lose your keys, one rubber on the keyring, one on the spare keyring, newly minted original goes in your files with the title. As for well experienced key cutters doing it by sight... from my time as a campus prankster, I can look at a Best SFIC key and read the code off by sight as long as it's an A4 bitting system (21 thou per bitting depth), if it's A2 (12.5 thou separation) it's too close to read reliably. 
kastein fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Mar 5, 2015 |
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Mar 5, 2015 17:41
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the first time one said "Oh, yeah, that's a 123ABC" and cut it from memory after I showed him my original.
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Yeah just drop an 8.8 in and forget about it. If you can weld, get one from a 96-01 Explorer with axle code 42 (4.10 open) or D2 (4.10 limited slip) on the drivers door barcode sticker, they have 31 spline shafts and discs stock. Otherwise, get one from a similar year Ranger with the right axle code/ratio and drop it in. All you need is brake fluid, diff fluid (change it while it's out), RTV, new U-bolts, and a handful of tools. Expect to spend 150-200 on the new rear at the yard. Explorer 8.8 swap: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Explorer8_8.shtml General Ranger/Explorer 8.8 info: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Ford-8_8-axle.shtml If you haven't already, sign up for an account on TheRangerStation, they may be more backward and hillrod than we are here but I have found a LOT of very informative threads there while researching repairs for my dad's ranger.
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Mar 6, 2015 00:11
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A gallon jerry can of gas and a road flare on the passenger seat should do nicely.
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Mar 7, 2015 05:33
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For the guy with static issues - could be a crummy modulator or it could just be overmodulating. That will splatter noise across several adjacent channels usually, try turning the volume down a little on the device feeding it audio. If you run it direct from the battery make sure you have a fuse of proper amperage (I would say the smallest you can buy, a modulator draws next to nothing) in the positive lead as close as possible to the battery as possible. Carbeques suck. Also since there was no change, I would move it back to being powered off the radio harness if you haven't already.
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Mar 10, 2015 04:15
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It's pretty hard to give a bulb in a car a current spike since they're rated to run at the maximum voltage the system provides, I'd suspect something more like moisture/debris infiltration due to the lamp not being properly sealed in its housing. Either that or manufacturing defect, or you aren't giving them enough voltage due to marginal OEM wiring. Halogen bulbs work on the halogen cycle, if you run them too cold the halogen cycle doesn't work anymore and tungsten evaporated from the filament during normal operation doesn't get re-deposited, so the bulbs will fail much faster. Test the voltage at the lamp, it should be above 10.8 volts and preferably much closer to 12.
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Mar 10, 2015 14:50
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Mr Executive posted:I've tried everything in regards to volume and the static remains. I've tried turning down the volume on my phone as well as the gain dial directly on the modulator and the static still remains if I turn the stereo volume up. Also, the static isn't just on adjacent stations. For example, the modulator is overriding 88.3, but I hear the static/reduced reception on 101.5. That looks like garbage grade solder flux left by a child laborer in China. Sadly the norm on low cost electronics. I've seen some truly horrific soldering on stuff like that.
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Mar 11, 2015 16:06
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Brakes and clutch smell about the same, you can narrow it down based on whether the smell is coming from the wheels or the transmission area. Tires smell different. Also - to the guy with the modulator noise issues - I forgot to mention, I think you are on the right track for sure since the noise is wideband spread across the entire FM broadcast range, that definitely eliminates overmodulation as a possibility, I'm pretty sure the modulator is junk at this point. And glad to hear you only temporarily wired it to the battery direct, I've seen car fires start that way so I figured I should mention it regardless. kastein fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Mar 11, 2015 |
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Mar 11, 2015 23:26
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killingthebest posted:I've got a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 120k miles on the clock. It's the 4.0L inline 6 and the thing is a beast. I've been putting gas in the thing for close to a decade and love it. First of all I don't care where you are, it'll cost you less to drive the thing to central Mass and pay me a couple cases of beer to do the valve stem seals or a small amount to do the lifters than he's quoting you. Even an engine swap is a weekend project and wouldn't cost you more than about 700 in parts, fluids, consumables, gaskets, etc. However, neither of those things is your issue and you should tell him to gently caress off. Google "jeep precat heatsoak vapor lock" and put your radiator fan on a timer so it runs for a couple minutes after shutting the vehicle off. Most people set one up based off a couple relays and an ELK 960 general purpose timer module, just make sure you do it right so it doesn't set a CEL for fan relay coil circuit malfunction or run your battery flat.
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Mar 13, 2015 18:05
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killingthebest posted:It's not holding a charge, I've all the connections and tubing replaced for leaks - including the condenser (it was pushing the refrigerant into my transmission fluid). It's still not holding a charge for longer than a day, which is frustrating. I would have called bullshit on "pushing refrigerant into the transmission fluid" until last weekend, when I had the pleasure of working on the cooling and transmission cooler systems on your vehicle's near twin, a 2004. Such a weird failure mode. What a stupid loving design that combined atx/refrigerant cooler is. kastein fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Mar 14, 2015 |
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Mar 14, 2015 01:07
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Jerking under sudden acceleration points to two things assuming the fuel supply is good - a bad TPS or a bad O2 sensor, maybe a bad MAF if it is MAF not MAP based. If the TPS has failed (usually due to age/wear or water intrusion under the hood...) the ECU will have no idea where the throttle is, so it is forced to use wrong values and it'll jerk around a lot when you change suddenly because its mixture trim calculations based off the O2 sensor reading can't compensate fast enough. Same is true of the O2 sensor, but the other way around. Check for codes and do diagnosis before shotgunning $50 parts at it, but that's my bet. Also, seeing as it was wet, the ecu may actually be slowly failing, but like I said, diagnose, then spend money. It is rarely the ecu, this is an odd case though.
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Mar 14, 2015 14:10
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Drunk Pledge Driver posted:I posted a while back about my Ranger's rear diff making GBS threads the bed. It's a '99 2.5L RWD with 7.5" 4.10 rear diff. Am I able to swap in a 4x4 rear diff? I can't seem to find that info online. I'd imagine from my limited knowledge of 4x4 differentials that the diff somehow can lock when put int 4x4 mode so again I don't know if that would work for me. Like the other two said, it is fine. I suspect you are confusing the center diff in the transfer case and the rear diff - the rear diff is the same either way, at least on every light duty pickup I've ever worked on. Some other stuff... always buy new ubolts. They stretch during torquing, and should be retorqued after about 100 miles of driving on the new diff. Make sure to clean any rust deposits (surface rust is alright, chunky rust is not) and dirt off the leaf spring and perch where they contact. You will need an m12 or m13 (I forget which) 12 point wrench to pop the 4 pinion drive flange bolts loose, they are reasonably tight and usually don't have enough clearance to get a socket and ratchet on them. I usually loctite them and tighten to "as drat tight as I can" using a deadblow hammer and the box wrench because it is real hard to break a hardened M12x1.75 bolt with a box wrench.
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Mar 15, 2015 15:30
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saint gerald posted:Stepdaughter's. Replace. It's a factory steelie, a junkyard won't charge more than like 40 if you aren't in a ridiculous area of the country. I generally break the bead on the tire with my high lift jack, then use a two foot long monkey wrench to bend the rim back out, and reseat the bead with starting fluid, but I don't recommend that unless she is entirely capable of handling a blowout at highway speeds. Bent aluminum wheels are junk no matter what, but steelies can be straightened a few times if you know what you're doing and are a skilled driver.
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Mar 16, 2015 18:13
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If the CEL is on, there are codes, period. If it's blinking, it means stop driving NOW, if it's not, it means get it checked and fix the problem. e: oh, this is airbag stuff. That's completely different and I'm not sure what the rules on that are.
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Mar 18, 2015 00:53
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Swaybar links meaning you should expect to redo the whole suspension, then suggesting a kit that includes absolutely no bushings or balljoints  I agree that cars that old start needing suspension work eventually, but not "replace all of it immediately" level issues. Springs and shocks should be replaced as a pair, otherwise I would stick to doing the part that needs replacing and anything else cheap (bushings, balljoints, etc) that had to be undone anyways to get at the parts being replaced. This does not always mean replacing all of it at once. If you are going to do it piecemeal, get a firestone lifetime alignment so you can have it realigned after each repair for free instead of another 70 bucks per visit.
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Jul 5, 2015 11:31
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