|
They wouldn't. You don't spray rust proofing anywhere near the calipers because if you miss (and it's a big spray pattern, you're going to) you essentially grease the brake rotors and then your shop gets sued.
|
#
¿
May 29, 2023 05:59
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 15, 2024 13:52 |
|
|
Those calipers are definitely on the wrong sides. It's not about where the bleeder itself is - it's about where the tiny bleed hole that's drilled straight through the back of the bleeder screw hole meets the side of the cylinder bore. Which looks to be drat near at the bottom of the cylinder bore in this case. If you flip them to the opposite side it will be very close to the top of the cylinder bore. *Resets the "days since last left-right caliper swap bleeding debacle" wall counter to zero* I wish I could count the number of years people have wasted learning this the hard way. I want to say I've seen upwards of a dozen people on many different platforms learn this and most only ask after weeks or months of loving with it and replacing a bunch of parts because bleeding brakes is easy right? Edit: I think this design actually has the bleeder passage meet the passage from the banjo bolt not the cylinder itself, but still, it's definitely on upside down: 
kastein fucked around with this message at 18:36 on Mar 7, 2024 |
|
#
¿
Mar 7, 2024 18:31
|
|
|
Do you have an iPhone or Android? You can buy a really cheap (seriously, I think mine was 11 dollars) Bluetooth or Wi-Fi elm327 clone on Amazon and the torque pro app for 5 bucks and that'll cover basically all powertrain codes and data on anything 96 and later. Get Wi-Fi if iPhone, Bluetooth if Android.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 8, 2024 20:20
|
|
|
Short notice but - if you have some poo poo going on with your car that you can't figure out and you're near Centralia WA, PM me for location, I'm going to be at a mutual aid wrenching day there for a local car club starting around 10:45. I think we're pretty booked up for significant repairs for the day but if you need diag help and/or to borrow tools there will be plenty of space and help available outside and possibly inside the shop. This is free, only thing you need to buy is your own parts, several parts stores in town. Donations to pizza fund are welcome but absolutely not required.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 9, 2024 18:08
|
|
|
I should also mention that this is a Drive Deviant event. It is an explicitly pro LGBT, leftist car club. Straights welcome, right wingers absolutely not.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 9, 2024 19:00
|
|
|
Safety Dance posted:This is right up my alley. How can I find out more about the Washington chapter? PainterofCrap posted:Is there a link to this org? I’d be interested in offering something similar in the Philadelphia/south Jersey area.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 10, 2024 01:13
|
|
|
I'm so glad my poo poo boxes get 1 to 5 years out of whatever vaguely correct size battery I get from the junkyard for 25 to 40 dollars.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 11, 2024 21:25
|
|
|
Yeah that's trash. Even if the sealing surface was intact the o ring won't stay on it without the edge that's broken off there to back it up.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 14, 2024 11:14
|
|
|
Yeah I'm a lot less anti GM small car and anti Ford when it comes to EVs because almost all my complaints about those companies engineering departments center on their ICE and/or non-V8 drivetrain design engineers.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 17, 2024 07:13
|
|
|
I've seen that much work get quoted that high any number of times with family and friends, not that I'd pay it. I'd driveway that repair for like 400 in parts and go get an alignment after.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 17, 2024 21:40
|
|
|
Check pending codes too, it might be listing those in the total and only displaying the actually set codes. That sounds like a bad TRS/NSS/MLPS from your description but I'd want to test it myself to be sure.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 18, 2024 20:00
|
|
|
With a physically weak operator, dirty mounting surfaces, and/or incorrect tightening pattern. I've had two wheels come loose. One I know for a fact what went wrong, my truck tipped the jack over and I was having a very bad day already as it was late at night in the winter, I had to dig a hole in the icy dirt road to get the jack under the frame and jack it up, then put things under the brake drum to hold it up while I moved the jack under the axle to get it high enough to put the wheel back on, and I got muddy slushy salty water all over the axle flange, drum faces, and wheel face in the process. I tightened it correctly but didn't realize that there was debris on the mounting surfaces. Under 100 miles later I felt and heard an odd feeling and pulled over to check and every lug was loose on just that wheel. The other I still do not have a solid answer but all I can think of is one of two things. Either someone maliciously loosened the lug nuts on it (unlikely) or somehow weeks before when I'd last touched those lug nuts I forgot to tighten them correctly on that side. It didn't come loose till we spent like 400 miles driving across the roughest loving highway I've ever driven on, the NYS thruway. It hadn't driven enough miles to hit the 100 mark and get retorqued yet when we left on that trip and by the time we were driving I had other things on my mind, like the fact that I was driving a 45 year old shitheap with less than 60 miles on a complete LS swap, rear axle replacement, and driveshaft made out of plumbing supplies, so I wasn't really thinking about the allegedly reliable backup vehicle on the trip. Every single other time - of the hundred+ times I've swapped wheels on vehicles at this point - I have not used a torque wrench at all, I've tightened them hand tight in a star pattern, then continued tightening them in stages in a star pattern till they feel right to me with a 4 way. I always check at 25* and 100 miles and I've never had more than one feel even slightly looser than I wanted it. And it turns out "tight enough" to my uncalibrated oaf arms is significantly over spec, but less than an idiot with an impact at the tire shop just running them down all the way. The one time I've tried using a torque wrench it felt significantly looser than it should. Is this right? Probably not, and I'm sure I'm going to get jumped on over it. But other than those two weird cases I've never had an issue with it and I've increased my vigilance on rechecks each time, so I'm gonna keep doing that. I'm not convinced that lug torque spec on old vehicles with well-used lug studs and nuts is at all representative of preload anyways, for the same reason you never reuse head bolts more than once. * I started checking at 25 after the unexplained near wheel loss. What that really amounts to is I check it as soon as I get home from wherever I was when I had to change it. Might be 5 miles, might be 25.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 25, 2024 09:46
|
|
|
honda whisperer posted:Get a torque wrench. All of you. Lug nuts HOLD YOUR WHEELS ON. I have four of them. I use them on: Axle nuts that set bearing preload Flywheel bolts Ring gear bolts Pressure plate bolts Bearing cap bolts Head bolts Basically anything that's very infrequently changed or checked and is super critical for bearing preload or similar reasons. But lug nuts on a 35 year old poo poo box on studs that may have been used 20 times and the actual preload from those gummy old threads at spec torque may be a tenth what they intended? Nah. I'll go with my gut based on how much force it took to spin it down most of the way before it even contacted the wheel. VelociBacon posted:Greasing the bolts would wildly change the appropriate torque spec wouldn't it? Yes. It also varies by like 25% from plain steel to black oxide to zinc plated and all of those are available on the market depending on whether it's a OEM, new, or different company new part, so good luck picking what torque you're going to use I guess, people.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 25, 2024 21:12
|
|
|
That's done. It said bake until flaky. Seriously though, that insulation is trash and I'd expect the rest of the harness to be bad too. Can you get better pics of the connectors? You might be able to buy new pins and simply make a whole new harness with the same connector housings.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 27, 2024 06:31
|
|
|
totalnewbie posted:Connectors: This Often if you see a connector in multiple colors that's seemingly identical, it has keying to only plug into the matching color so assembly line techs can't plug things in wrong even if they wanted to.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 27, 2024 23:03
|
|
|
Same. I'll sometimes use the stainless steel guide ear sliding clips that some brake pad kits include but only if the pads slide smoothly with them in, sometimes they're too thick and the pads bind. I really don't like grease anywhere near my brakes, so even if I do use it, I use as little as possible.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 31, 2024 23:17
|
|
|
That's exactly what I'd do. Find out the exact year range that your front bumper cover fits, sign up for row52.com and use that year range and your zip code and acceptable driving distance to set up an instant alert for the make model year, you'll get emails the day any car meeting your requirements shows up at a participating yard (mostly pick n pull chain yards owned by schnitzer, they own the site and are slowly pushing out all competing yards as far as I can tell) and usually they even have a picture so you can see if the bumper is smashed or the wrong color. Grab your tools, go there, practice taking the new one off on the junkyard car, swap it on your car in the parking lot and put the two halves of the old bumper in the trunk or back in the yard if they charged you a core charge. Return home victorious after hitting the closest taco truck, glizzy stand, or Chinese buffet, as our religious traditions require.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 6, 2024 20:31
|
|
|
Safety Dance posted:Oh dang you're right, there's a Touareg and a Q7 at my local that I've been meaning to hit up for parts, I need to include trailer tacos in this plan. There are two more Q7s at my preferred yard, what are you looking for? I don't make it to your yard nearly as often due to the ferry ride and distance.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 7, 2024 01:37
|
|
|
We demand forbidden catte pictures
|
|
#
¿
Apr 8, 2024 05:27
|
|
|
Safety Dance posted:I'm going to poke around in the sunroof area and see if they have similar wiring harnesses to the Kentucky-fried insulation in mine. Might also take a look at the washer fluid reservoirs while I'm in there. You too? I have to be at the southworth ferry dock at 550 for goon and car shenanigans. Why do we do this to ourselves Edit: and clearly I need more sleep not less since I just double posted without realizing it
|
|
#
¿
Apr 8, 2024 05:28
|
|
|
What he said. Also make sure the mounting surfaces are clean and dry, torque in star pattern, and recheck the spacer to hub nut torque as required, not just the wheel to spacer lug nuts. I've had zero issues that way, even though my fellow yeehaw jeep owners think spacers are the devil and that you need to use hubcentric rings on a lug centric vehicle. (But yeah, the e30 is hub centric, so use them. Depending on whether the wheels and lug type you use are hub or lug centric, you'll want to get spacers with the correct spigot, or can use flat face ones.)
|
|
#
¿
Apr 8, 2024 13:55
|
|
|
When I lived in a crappy overpriced concrete apartment building with washers that cost money to use and were always broken I'd choose the shittiest washer in the laundry room and apply an entire can of brakleen to my nasty wrenching clothes as prewash right before putting them in on hot/hot with double detergent. It worked. Not recommended for washing machines you actually don't want to fix, or in buildings you would mind burning down :vee:
|
|
#
¿
Apr 9, 2024 15:58
|
|
|
The funniest ones are certain older Fords that once they hit 399,999.9 they roll back... To 300,000.0 and continue counting back to 399,999.9 again. Even some Ford digital odometers do this. Between the numbers 1, 2, and 3, literally only one segment of an LCD display for the 6th digit is never used. I don't believe that segment is even missing. Ford simply made the engineering decision to roll over from 400k back to 300k, repeatedly. Why? Who knows.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 12, 2024 08:23
|
|
|
wolrah posted:I guess one could make a case that the difference between 300,000 miles and anything above that doesn't really matter to most, where if it was to do a full rollover there'd be the potential for someone to think a high mileage one was in fact low mileage. Constantly resetting to 300k is better than resetting to 0 in that case. Personally with a digital odometer my preference would be make it count up till maximum readout, then roll over but start flashing. Wouldn't even be hard to implement in code and would add zero cost to each unit after that.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 13, 2024 02:10
|
|
|
wesleywillis posted:You may have to accept the fact that some things you probably can't do yourself. Whether you want to or not. So far that list includes getting myself a laser alignment machine, rebuilding an automatic transmission, rebuilding a steering rack, and rebuilding an AC compressor. I've already done all the rest, it just took 16 years of nearly pathologically self reliant car nerding to reach that point.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 18, 2024 13:52
|
|
|
I paid $300 for a fmc 7600/7700 mounting machine and $250 for an accuturn 1450 balancing machine back in 2017 and I think I've already paid for them in mounting and balancing fees alone. The reasoning wasn't so much cost as freedom, it allows me to do my tires any time I have time instead of having to make time during the business day, and allows me to hold my usual 0/0 balancing standard instead of whatever the abused flat rate tech doing the work thought was close enough, which often depends on how much they hate their boss today and how close it is to a smoke break or lunch. I can also mount burnout tires for free as much as I want which is nice because paying 20+ to have them mounted and arguing about whether they're roadworthy or not every time significantly reduces the fun involved. The mounting machine is definitely not particularly kind to the lips of fancy alloys and stuff but it works great on steelies and beater alloys which is all I have. You couldn't convince me to do other people's mounting and balancing for regular rate but if anyone local to me wants to do their own, bring tires and wheels and I'll teach you how to use my machines for like, a cheap dinner at the local Chinese buffet or something.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 18, 2024 15:57
|
|
|
It's both, on various vehicles. Usually if the part has been superceded like that, after original stock of the old part is depleted, when you order the old part number you will receive the new part instead. Unless this is a mid year split or early vs late production thing in which case you'll see things like "before 4/10/94” or "chassis serial number 983652 and up" or "with transmission case casting c153992" etc.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 23, 2024 08:29
|
|
|
If you buy preloaded strut spring combos (I think they call them quick struts on rockauto) it should eliminate most of the pain and risk, you'll want a pro alignment though. Should be about 150 bucks.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 25, 2024 20:05
|
|
|
I'd try a junkyard first, that part probably fits 10 years of every Honda model on the market and 13 years old is easily old enough for there to be plenty of them in the local pick n pull.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 26, 2024 17:15
|
|
|
Pretty much the best way is to drop the pan, clean it out completely, and put it back on with fresh fluid back to regular level, but it is a huge mess and if possible drain it with a drain plug first. Some transmissions just don't have them though because auto makers don't care about us at all past the warranty period.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 29, 2024 19:10
|
|
|
IIRC those are subject to an engine failure problem right now that is not timing chain related so you may not get a chance to worry about the timing chain.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 30, 2024 07:59
|
|
|
I second what everyone else is saying but specifically totalnewbie. Another evap related code so soon after having fuel tank work done is a sign that it may be related, a very strong one in fact. Some of the evap codes will only come on up to 3 drive cycles after the problem was first flagged, and the evap monitor code that sets them sometimes only runs when the tank is at a certain fill level range, that's manufacturer model and year dependent. If it was my car I'd be bringing it back to them to see if they left a vacuum hose off or a hose clamp loose or something. Another related anecdote, I was literally just at the parts store to pick up a starter for a customers wood chipper (did you know that an asplundhe wood chipper from the 00s uses a Ford 300/4.9L with a Ford FE manual transmission bellhousing from the 60s and a 92-96 4.9L AUTOMATIC starter? I didn't) and the parts counter dope was trying to tell some lady with a 2012 Nissan Juke that her P0744 TCC circuit intermittent fault code meant that she needed a new torque converter. The people behind the counter at parts stores and their silly little code reader may be anywhere from well meaning but completely uninformed all the way up to knowledgeable but maliciously trying to sell more poo poo than a customer needs, but the one common outcome is they're pissing in the dark and I don't listen to them.
|
|
#
¿
May 1, 2024 20:15
|
|
|
The full part number is 90980-12A29 if that's any help. I haven't found any pins for it yet googling but I did find the whole empty housing. My personal preference would be to find the pin release tool for the connector and buy like ten pins, and just recrimp that one pin with an extension on the wire if needed rather than splicing all the wires.
|
|
#
¿
May 9, 2024 00:31
|
|
|
honda whisperer posted:Haha that's a serious debate inside AI. I'm on team butt splices despite having been good at soldering for 28 years now, but that last sentence is the most important one here, you are right. Do whichever you personally are better at. Sealant lined heatshrink is the important part either way, the regular desktop PC building kind with no sealant will hold water in better than it keeps it out. Nocheez posted:I worked in a shop that did a lot of this thing. I recommend using butt crimp connectors, but squirt some silicone sealant in before you crimp. This is a good "it's all I have" method but don't do this, it's much easier and less likely to fail if you just use the right heatshrink sealant lined splices. Oh, use a little acetone or IPA on a clean rag to wipe any oil and grease off the insulation before you do the deed, the heatshrink will stick a lot better that way.
|
|
#
¿
May 9, 2024 15:23
|
|
|
It's fairly non critical hardware, I would probably just put it back up. A lot of them are aluminum anyways.
|
|
#
¿
May 10, 2024 01:33
|
|
|
Having lived in the rust belt most of my life and never owned a car under 11 years old I forgot driveshafts even came with paint on them.
|
|
#
¿
May 10, 2024 15:23
|
|
|
If you can't find what you want for that part on LMC Google seat belt repair and restore companies, there are a few good ones IIRC and they can color match your original webbing and repair all sorts of stuff.
|
|
#
¿
May 11, 2024 20:21
|
|
|
Honestly you should probably put him in a mid 90s or later car with crash safety things then. My newest vehicle is a 1988 domestic pickup so I'm in the same boat but there's nothing safe about these things. People think a big old truck is safe and it really is not. I will die or be seriously injured if I crash my 79 J10 at any significant speed. A $1500 poo poo heap Prius or something is a great first car that gets good fuel economy and will be an order of magnitude safer for him if (when, most new drivers crash eventually) he wrecks it. It will also mean absolutely nothing to you and can be scrapped without a second thought. I'd keep the Dodge and rebuild it with him but let him do his learning and crashing in a safer, less cared for vehicle.
|
|
#
¿
May 11, 2024 20:53
|
|
|
in a well actually posted:A time machine to 2007 Maybe in your area but I see a fair number of varying condition beater prii as well as the occasional Nissan leaf in the 500 to 2300 dollar range on fbmp around me. It's weird, mostly 500ish, 1500ish, and just over 2k are the prices people use for non part out listings.
|
|
#
¿
May 12, 2024 22:24
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 15, 2024 13:52 |
|
|
Silicones in general are a real bastard to remove, you might try stronger IPA. If that doesn't cut it you'll have to switch to something like acetone but bear in mind that may well dissolve the things you're trying to clean it off of as well. Not very helpful.
|
|
#
¿
May 15, 2024 08:18
|
|