|
I'm replacing my car's front pads and rotors, and I saw that a hardware kit to service the calipers is also available which contains bushings and clips. Should I replace the bushings while I'm dealing with the shoes, or is that pointless since the system itself seems to be fine? I don't have any problems with braking under high or low stress, it's just at the point of wear where new pads/rotors are needed. 88 Chrysler Lebaron, FWD with disc on the front and drum on the back vvv: Scratch the insanity, the manual has entries for both disc and drum on the rear but it's due to a body submodel difference and I was just skimming that since I was focused on the front Sentient Data fucked around with this message at 22:20 on Feb 13, 2015 |
#
¿
Feb 13, 2015 22:08
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 3, 2024 12:29 |
|
|
Loose/shorted wires at the speaker end? But before you tear it open again, you may as well check the audio balance on the head unit. No idea why it would happen, but you may as well make sure it's trying to send audio to the speakers in the first place
|
|
#
¿
Feb 14, 2015 05:25
|
|
|
ALL the speakers I would doubt, I was thinking just the rear ones and overly-stripped wires rubbing or something similar. Is there an external amp that could have been disturbed or do the wires plug directly into the head?
|
|
#
¿
Feb 14, 2015 05:37
|
|
|
So here's a potential bit of fun, is there a way to tell the specs of a fuel injector from its markings? I finally found out that the occasional white exhaust-smelling cloud from near the intake/exhaust manifold was from a  loving FUEL LEAK Thankfully the leak was extremely small and the engine didn't go up in a blaze. Turns out the jackasses at Autozone sold me regular fuel hose instead of high pressure hose for the feed line even though I requested it (and I didn't know how to tell the difference at the time) along with regular flat clamps instead of rounded ones since they apparently don't carry the round ones for 5/16 hose.I got some new (and correct) hose and clamps to redo the work, and in the process I completely took out my fuel rail to clean up the minor spill and change the injector o-rings while I was at it, and found out that one of the 4 is different from the other 3. I tried searching around for 01D027B but all I found were a few posts from other people confused by injectors with the same markings. Chinese knockoffs maybe? I'm assuming that injectors aren't all the same and have different flow rates or whatever, so I'm sure one cylinder getting more/less fuel would be horrible for the engine. The car's an 88 Chrysler Lebaron 2.2 Turbo (w/o intercooler since it seems to matter), and here are the 'proper' injectors according to Autozone and Advance. I have to put the car back together with the current injectors since I don't have the spare money to grab another at this second, but is a new injector something that needs to go at the top of my asap list? 
|
|
#
¿
Feb 28, 2015 00:05
|
|
|
Ask your lawyer what you need to put down for the car's value - if it was originally only in your name and it's going to have its value considered as part of an asset division, you might need to put it down as a sale of that amount (which also means she might owe sales tax on it when registering). This is the kind of thing that can totally vary state by state, so talk to ask your lawyer. It might be a sale, it might be a gift, it might be already 'hers' through some state/county laws as part of the divorce, who knows. As long as she doesn't need an SR-22 (legally mandated proof of insurance from the companies due to unpaid accidents or whatever), she should be fine under your insurance as long as she has her own named proof of insurance (not just a generic resident of your household), just make sure your insurance company won't retroactively rescind her coverage once you tell them about the update due to the divorce
|
|
#
¿
Mar 3, 2015 01:43
|
|
|
Total Meatlove posted:I've got an 09 plate Fiesta, and I need to top up the coolant. Push down as you twist past that first little bit, it's a safety feature to make sure an over pressurized system doesn't launch a cap into space. Are you sure you're filling the right part, the coolant reservoir/overflow tank and not just directly into the radiator?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 3, 2015 19:50
|
|
|
Time to prep for some transmission work. Nothing's wrong with how it acts, but since I'm just about done catching up with every bit of maintenance with the engine/vacuum/fuel system, the transmission's next on the chopping block. It's a Chrysler A413 automatic 3-speed transaxle that was manufactured in 87 and will have around 72k~73k miles on it by the time I get to doing the work itself. Given the state of the radiator hoses when I replaced them, I'm thinking it was sitting undriven in a yard/garage/whatever for a period of several years with the PO, but I've put about 4k miles on the car so I'm thinking if any gunk was going to cause issues it already would have. It's obviously getting a filter replacement and a fluid drain/refill. The oil pan and (rear) conversion gear pan/cover both have some rust, so I'm replacing the pans. I've already picked up the conversion gear cover from a pick and pull, and I'm thinking the oil pan itself will just come new from rockauto since the donor car's was already gone. I'm also planning to replace every hose I can find simply due to the age of the car. (Of which I'm assuming there are 2 for transmission fluid cooling; I haven't paid much attention to that side of the car yet)
e: Regarding draining the fluid, I've seen notes like this posted at a bunch of sites. To my ears it sounds as insane as running an engine while draining the engine oil - is it bad, or is it actually standard practice for people that don't have what I'm assuming are big and expensive machines? quote:To extract as much of the old ATF as possible, leave the pan on, remove a trans cooler line at the radiator, put a drain pan under it, then start the engine for a few seconds to find out which way the fluid is flowing. It doesn't matter whether you use the inlet or outlet line except that you have to attach a small hose either to the line connector or the radiator outlet in order to collect the ATF. Put the hose into the largest jug you can find, and let the engine idle until air starts spurting. Many professionals enhance this procedure by pouring a few quarts of fresh fluid into the dipstick tube at roughly the same rate that the old fluid is coming out, thus adding flushing action. Sentient Data fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Mar 4, 2015 |
|
#
¿
Mar 4, 2015 03:14
|
|
|
ZentraediElite posted:I just wanted to see if anybody had any tricks before I cave and call AAA. Rock salt, then kitty litter? That might give the kitty litter newly-melted holes to grab on to rather than just flinging it around
|
|
#
¿
Mar 5, 2015 17:17
|
|
|
If you have a bicycle pump for once you get out, you can probably get a lot more grip if you let out some air from the tires - give it more surface area to grip to get unstuck, just obviously don't drive like that or let it get completely flat
|
|
#
¿
Mar 5, 2015 17:34
|
|
|
Is the static an actual radio static, or is it more of a vvvvVVVVVVVV that gets louder as you accelerate harder? If the former, you might have a loose connection somewhere along the antenna line - it might not be plugged in all the way, the connector might be corroded, or there might be a bad solder inside of the modulator. If it's the latter, it's a ground loop problem (though usually it only happens when the phone is also charging, as noted) - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HJ1QGM/ has worked great for me, but I'm sure there are tons of brands/chips that work equally well
|
|
#
¿
Mar 9, 2015 17:59
|
|
|
Sounds like the modulator is screwed, then. If you're really technically-minded you could crack it open and check out the solders, but if you aren't confident about it and don't mind waiting the week or so, just do an exchange. Wiggling the box while holding onto the wires just outside of it will let you know if the antenna connections are messed up, but it could just as easily be a different connection not directly connected to the wires
|
|
#
¿
Mar 9, 2015 20:34
|
|
|
SCA Enthusiast posted:
If you have daylight running lights, that's sadly the norm with SSU lights. They took a page from computer/phone manufacturers, and their one-year life expectancy is based on something like 30 minutes per day. Since DRL means they're on 100% of the time you're driving, it really cuts down on the bulbs' life
|
|
#
¿
Mar 10, 2015 15:03
|
|
Long story short, should I chock this up as manufacturing defect or start doing some electrical fault finding?
|
JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:Are there any other considerations I should be thinking of? If you have even the slightest desire to do things yourself beyond the standard oil change (which it seems like you do), the first thing you should buy is the factory service manual(s) for your car. Not Haines/Chilton, but the real service manuals that shops use - quick ebay, but there are probably plenty of other sources with a more recent vehicle. I got the FSMs for my 88, and I've literally saved thousands and picked up a new hobby by doing the work myself (and before I started, I literally couldn't even name what the different things were under the hood) A 3/8" torque wrench should also be on your list - 1/2" is useful for making sure your wheels have the right torque, but they're usually too unweildy for use in tight areas, and most of your sockets will probably be 3/8" size. Also get used to ordering from rockauto.com - Autozone/etc are still useful for occasional items that don't have a huge price difference or that you need RIGHT NOW, but most of the time you'll see that a $50 price from a local store is $12ish on rockauto
|
|
#
¿
Mar 20, 2015 15:31
|
|
|
OSU_Matthew posted:Now to figure out why the truck occasionally likes to stall out when it hits third gear If your ignition coil has a condenser/capacitor attached to it (little metal canister about the size of a short AA battery), check it and see if it's bulging/leaking. Also worth checking your distributor pickup/hall effect sensor, especially if it's the photo type. If it got dirty in there or if a little component got damaged, it can screw things up. Both of those aren't specifically related to high gear, but they can cause random stalling at any rpm without throwing a code, and they're more likely to act up when the engine's warmer. Ditto a hot short in the coil or whatever it's called, where the internal wires expand slightly from the heat and only occasionally short out when hot. The first two are more notable to check out since they'd get missed more easily due to the components literally not existing in more modern cars. Failed capacitor will cause radio interference to various sensors (especially the hall effect sensor), and the distributor pickup failing will basically have the same synonyms as a cps sensor failing if you came across that cause while googling
|
|
#
¿
Mar 22, 2015 12:25
|
|
|
Check your power steering level and see if you can find a leak from the hoses/rack/etc. Might not explain the shaking, but it easily explains the grinding/screeching sort of noise that steadily gets worse over time E: missed the part about the disc being hosed. Check your tie rods to see if they're worn or move too easily, maybe the one on the right got loose and is wider than it should be
|
|
#
¿
Mar 26, 2015 12:44
|
|
|
Just do it yourself, don't pay a detailing company unless the car is in the 5-digit price range. Order an small bottle of an exact paint match from the dealer our online for around $15ish, vacuum and wash/wax it yourself, get a strong air freshener in there for a few days (but not too strong or it'll seem like you're hiding something), throw some rainx on the windows. Total cost is maybe $30ish and that's easy to reclaim from a sale
|
|
#
¿
Mar 27, 2015 13:48
|
|
|
If a "fair amount" of stuff is enough to consider towing a trailer (especially mattresses or furniture), what about renting the smallest size moving truck and towing the car instead? e: Disregard, then. I did a move with a station wagon's roof rack and had no issues, I'd imagine it'll be just as easy if all you need is a couple bags of space Sentient Data fucked around with this message at 01:26 on Mar 28, 2015 |
|
#
¿
Mar 28, 2015 01:24
|
|
|
If you don't have a good multimeter, how about disconnecting the battery and just bringing it in to be tested as-is to see if it's a battery issue rather than just a wiring one?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 29, 2015 15:53
|
|
|
surf rock posted:What in the gently caress is wrong with my goddamn car? Get/borrow a multimeter that can read the DC amp draw and see if there's a load when the key's off. Maybe the ignition switch failed and the accessory circuit is stuck on or some other component is always drawing when it shouldn't
|
|
#
¿
Mar 31, 2015 00:28
|
|
|
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05XOhz67jGA is a great video that details the process. The process and reasoning are explained well, and the instructions are meant to be as generic as possible to apply to just about any car
|
|
#
¿
Apr 1, 2015 01:44
|
|
|
If you have a large pan you could put under the car you could try to catch any overnight drippings to see if the problem is bad. If you're not afraid of getting a little dirty you could jack the car and check under it (WHILE THE CAR IS ON STANDS, NOT JUST THE JACK) to try to find any moisture around the power steering hoses or around the boots that protect the tie rods. If you find a leak out suspect one at all, contact a different place and tell them you think you might have a power steering leak for X reason, but don't mention the rack replacement suggestion. Let the new place try to find the leak without bias, it may just be a hose or a non-rack-internal seal which is a MUCH simpler and cheaper job for them to take care of
|
|
#
¿
Apr 1, 2015 02:47
|
|
|
It's a really ghetto solution, but what I've done is have the kids pick out a king size comforter from the store that they like (or just an all-black one in your case if you're worried about obvious aesthetics) and cut slits in the proper places for the seat belts
|
|
#
¿
Apr 1, 2015 18:00
|
|
|
Have you cleaned out the EGR recently? It seems like they can have their own codes for direct failure, but they get clogged up with crap and seem to be the underlying cause of quite a few issues that a lot of people overlook, and other people with P0441 seem to say that a dirty EGR can be a cause
|
|
#
¿
Apr 3, 2015 19:33
|
|
|
If it just needs something to press a button that still exists rather than also needing conductive contacts, then maybe there's some firm, dry clay/wax you could use to get the right dimensions/shape if you want to mcgyver something. From there the guy with the 3d printer can take some measurements and try to replicate it in whatever CAD program, then give it a few trial/error runs with the printer (or even just slightly large then sand it to size)
|
|
#
¿
Apr 6, 2015 21:36
|
|
|
How accurate should a fuel gauge be? I've usually been filling up my car at about the 1/4 mark or higher to make sure the fuel pump doesn't struggle/run hot, and re-reading the service manual gave me a bit of pause. The tank usually only takes about 7~8 gallons to fill at the 1/4 level or slightly below (and I know for a fact that it's full at that point since the auto-shutoff didn't trigger once and I got a quick little fuel waterfall), but according to the specs the tank is rated at 14 gallons. Should I assume that the fuel pump is taking 3~4 gallons of space inside the tank? Seems a bit high to me, but I've never seen one out of the tank. 88 Chrysler Lebaron 2.2 turbo, fuel injected (~55psi if that affects pump size)
|
|
#
¿
Apr 10, 2015 23:45
|
|
|
Yeah, I've noticed that with both the Lebaron and a 2nd gen Prius that the gas curves are pretty parabolic (it doesn't even dip below full for a long time, then it moves a bit quicker the lower it gets), I'm just surprised to hear that it might be a few gallons below empty rather than just maybe 1ish. Granted who knows how crappy it is in there due to PO negligence, but a fuel filter change a few hundred miles after I got it, then few thousand more miles on high octane 0 ethanol and lucas cleaner probably washed out anything non-solid at least
|
|
#
¿
Apr 11, 2015 01:12
|
|
|
Do you know if the seller did a fluid exchange immediately (as in less than like 20 miles) before selling the car? When you drain/refill the fluid, it takes a cycle or two of repressurizing (fully heating) the coolant system to force the last of the air out of all the hoses
|
|
#
¿
Apr 11, 2015 18:59
|
|
|
How about using some RTV to make a gasket on the cap? Haven't tried it personally, but that might work well enough for you instead of spending 
|
|
#
¿
Apr 11, 2015 23:11
|
|
|
My turn signal fuse started blowing with no changes to the car, but the hazard flasher still works fine. The car has 3 blinking lights on each side, plus a constant white light on the side when the turn signal is on (but not the hazards). The fuse that blows is the proper size (10A), and when I noticed that it was blown the first time I replaced the fuse with a fresh one and tested it out; both sides worked properly for the duration of the walkaround test, but the fuse blew again at some point later in the day and I haven't replaced it again yet for fear of melting some wires. The turn signal switch is on the same stalk as the wipers/cruise/high beam, and the wiper/beam controls still work properly - cruise doesn't seem to work, but it never did and I'm guessing it's an iffy vacuum in the solenoid. Haven't tried replacing the flasher relay since I don't have a replacement; it did work for an unknown duration during and after the walkaround, but its probably the stock quarter-century-old one and the hazard flasher relay did need a replacement a few months ago. Thoughts?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 16, 2015 15:32
|
|
|
I've had good luck using a Chrysler(/Ford?) christmas tree style clip on a stripped wheel well splash guard
|
|
#
¿
Apr 17, 2015 23:00
|
|
|
If the job isn't 100% rock solid and the car is basically only due to the job, what about month-to-month car rentals? I haven't priced it out personally, but if it's only a small amount above the cost of a lease it might be worth it to look at the price difference as basically an insurance policy
|
|
#
¿
Apr 18, 2015 13:08
|
|
|
If it's a real simple job to get at your injectors, try swapping 1 for 2 and 3 for 4. If the misfire follows the injectors then you know they're the problem, if the misfire stays where it is then you know you have other issues e: And if you do the swap, don't forget to replace the o-rings - lube them up with fuel injector cleaner to make sure they don't stick/tear when installing Sentient Data fucked around with this message at 14:37 on Apr 21, 2015 |
|
#
¿
Apr 21, 2015 14:31
|
|
|
Water wouldn't do much for too long, but maybe the cam/crankshaft seals suck. Since you brought it into a shop they should have been done since 90% of the labor is getting the timing belt off (just like a water pump replacement) and they're <$10 in parts normally, but if you've got some bad ones or a bad valve cover gasket there might be a slow oil leak onto the belt. There's also the chance that the tensioner is bad, so check the invoice and make sure that was replaced (as long as it's part of a normal timing belt change for your model). Beyond that, make sure you have the right culprit - if you have auxiliary belts instead of just one giant serpentine belt, try to confirm which belt the squeak is coming from. Park the car, parking brake on, hood up with it running, and make sure you watch out for any loose clothes or long hair. If the belts themselves all seem good, try to identify which idler/pulley the squeak is coming from
|
|
#
¿
Apr 22, 2015 14:55
|
|
|
What's the best way to become a mechanic officially? I've done some work on my own cars using service manuals, and I've spent the past few months working at a chain shop that does the absolute basics (oil changes, tire mounts/installations, batteries, that kind of stuff) but they don't get deeper into actual mechanical work. I think I want to end up in diesel mechanic work if I need to pick a specialty since trucks and buses will last the longest (whether or not they have drivers), but what's the best way to get started? Should I study for ASE tests and pass them? Take some kind of college/vocational courses? Do shops still have actual apprenticeships where I could get in just on the barebones tire/oil experience and a functioning brain? Sentient Data fucked around with this message at 05:57 on Dec 7, 2016 |
|
#
¿
Dec 7, 2016 05:44
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 3, 2024 12:29 |
|
|
I settled on Valvoline VR-1 "racing" oil of the appropriate weight for my lebaron when I had to dive down that same rabbit hole for the same reason. Good lab test results from the used oil when I turned in a batch; I stuck with frequent changes following the car's heavy use guidelines (since it's hot here with tons of stop-and-go), and it worked perfectly
|
|
#
¿
Dec 7, 2016 23:07
|
|