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MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Emissions laws, probably. With the parts store reader you can reset your codes to try and dodge emissions tests.

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MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

22 Eargesplitten posted:

Am I doing any damage to my engine by over-filling the oil? I'm talking maybe 4.5-4.75 quarts instead of 4.2.

Depends on the engine, and by how much. Half a quart isn't that bad.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

IIRC the supposed logic is that synthetics are thinner and will fit through smaller cracks. The right thing to do is get your leaks fixed first.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

There is a technical reason for that as well, as the fuel pump uses the gasoline it sits in as a heat sink. Run the tank completely dry and on some designs you have a chance of burning out your pump.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Road quality and operating temperature are also factors. Do you live in the desert/place where they cheap out on road maintenance?

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Would definitely reccomend a shaving service if you are at 80% tread on the other 3 tires. On subarus you can get away with 2/32 of an inch difference, but better safe than sorry. Go on tire rack, get a single tire shaved to spec and shipped to your preffered shop.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

...I would replace that battery, or at least (carefully) haul it into a parts store to have it bench tested. You may have a shorted cell.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Enourmo posted:

The drain plug gasket is just there for preload, all the sealing is done by the threads. If they overtightened it it would leak gasket or not, if they forgot the gasket it miiiight back off but with threads in good shape it would either hold oil or dump it on the ground immediately. Based on your description I'd assume filter gasket is the main thing.

Have her demand to see this so-called waiver.

Or find a shop that isn't filled with assholes. "signed a waiver" :wtc:

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

I have one installed on my 850, and I JUST did an oil change.

Pros to the fumoto:

No wrench required, no dropping the plug into the pan, no oil splattering everywhere when you pull the plug. You can start/stop draining whenever you want, which is handy if you take samples for blackstone or whatever.

Cons: drain hole size is smaller than your plug, so it will drain a little slower (who cares, have another beer). On my vehicle, the oil pan doesn't go past the subframe, and the plug is kinda recessed into the back of the pan anyway, so I'm not worried about it getting caught/damaged by driving over stuff. Also it's a volvo, so it's not like I'm offroading or rallying with it.

It's convenient and nifty, and I'm glad I installed it. Not strictly necessary though.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

I wish i could do that, but i'm using a widowmaker and some lovely stands, so I can't get the ground clearance to get my disposal jug underneath. :negative:

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

They're expensive as hell, and require training, so few shops have them.

You can however, order one shaved from tirerack.com, and have it shipped to a local place to have it installed.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

uwaeve posted:

We have a 2009 RAV4, and it seems like every time we pass a multiple of 15k OR it's been 3 months OR 3k since last oil change it throws a MAINT REQ light. Wife just gets it reset, but is this something we can have disabled? I feel like we've been turned away from at least one inspection station blindly without them even checking a code because the light is on.

Yell at whomever is doing your oil changes to reset it whenever they change the oil.

OR If you do your own changes:

push trip button display to show trip A
Turn key to off posistion.
Hold down trip/reset button
turn key to "On" position, (not start)
watch as little line counts down across display, and maintenance light flashes
when it flashes zeros, you're done! let go of buttan, turn key off, start car.


some models its a little different, for example you may need to show the odo mileage not trip A
but that's the basic procedure for almost every toyota ever.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

temporarily, you can use a "Pan saver" drain plug. they have a pretty big rubber gasket. They're like :5bux: at the parts store.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Were you near a golf course at the time? looks more like a golf ball hit. Those little bastards have a lot of kinetic energy.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

lol internet. posted:

Question about tires. I just replaced my tires with non-oem tires.

Do I still inflate the tire to what is listed on my door panel sticker or do I go by the recommendation directly on the tire rubber?

Also, I think the TPMS might be messed up, any idea if you would fail a safety check in WA state if the light is on? and what should my spare tire PSI be at. I didn't get a chance to check but would it be listed on the tire rubber as well? It's a 2007 Scion TC if that matters.

You have a button you need to press, because your TPMS works a bit different than most others.

quote:

Scion tC (2006 - 2012) TPMS Reset Procedure
Relearn Code: TOY-2

Relearn Procedures: Initialization following rotation and tire replacement.

1. Inflate all tires to pressure indicated on tire placard.
2. Turn ignition to ON position (engine off)
3. Hold down tire pressure reset button (located on instrument panel, knee bolster or inside glove box) until TPMS telltale flashed 3 times.
4. Initialization will be completed when ECU has received signals from all from all sensors. Process may take 2 - 3 minutes.
5. If initialization is not complete, drive vehicle for approximately 20 minutes.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

There's still a linkage. It's the power assist that is electric, just like the hydraulic assist before it.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Slavvy posted:

I've acquired a petrol powered air compressor, it has what appears to be an ohc 150cc honda single. I want to use the compressor in a somewhat indoor setting and I want to extend the stubby exhaust pipe it's got by like a meter using some sort of flexible pipe I can flop out of the way when I'm not using it. The exhaust is about 26mm od. Is there such a thing as exhaust temperature resistant flexible piping of some kind that I can hoseclamp on there? welding on a solid stretch of exhaust isn't an option.

Whatever you do, please have a shitload of ventilation in this "indoor" setting. There are a lot of idiots who died of carbon monoxide poisoning doing exactly what you are asking about.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Christobevii3 posted:

We're debating calling the dealer to understand. My friend said he would turn his car on letting it idle for 20-30 minutes in the morning of cold north dakota winters. Judging by his intelligence the plugs have never been changed and just burnt the tips off misfiring until a piece of the plug or two fell in. Allegedly two bad cylinders.

Did he change the oil? I've seen a few Prius that didn't get it changed because it was an "electric car"

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

IIRC That's an EGR hose?

There's a couple reasons why you could have a crank no-start though.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

No, what matters is you install them correctly.

The AC recharge kits work if your system is low on charge and doesn't have a horrendously large leak somewhere.
If the leak is really bad, you're just dumping all that refrigerant out. If something else is broken, it still won't work anyway.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Motor oils supposedly have a shelf life of 4-5 years. It's not even the oils itself, its the additives. It will be fine, especially if still sealed.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

A socket extension acts like a torsional spring. With a rattlegun, which transmits force as a series of sharp blows, the extension will wind up and then release, reducing the peak torque going to the socket.

This is how "torque sticks" function to avoid over-tightening lug nuts.


With a hand ratchet or a breaker bar, you will feel the extension flex, then reach the end of its spring range, until you either break the bolt loose, or something goes plastic (you round off the fastener or twist the extension permanently)

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

monsterzero posted:

Are aluminum foil, vinegar or crystals effective defense against tetraethyl lead?


Stupid Question: I've got a rusty bolt on the bottom of boat that I need to remove. I want to start hitting it with penetrant before I try to remove it, but the challenge is that it's upside down, recessed slightly in a bronze casting. The boat is on a trailer in my buddy's yard, so I can't just go out back and hit it with PB Blaster every day or so. My stupid idea right now is to try and soak a cotton ball in PB or acetone-ATF and tape it up in the bolt recess, but I expect that would just fall off two minutes after I walk away. Anyone got suggestions?

AVE has the answer:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqZYgReuywM

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

fair enough. would def go with atf/acetone if wicking is needed. that poo poo wicks itself out of the bottle you keep it in.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Loopoo posted:


My question is: how much damage have I done by not regularly checking my tyre pressure, and how often should I check in future? Is the only damage I've done increased wear by having them underinflated?


No damage, If any. It will be more apparent if your alignment is bad. Twice a year fall/spring. Yes, but unless you drive like a maniac/race, you won't see any difference.


quote:

Also, how OCD should I be about "cold tyres"? The drive from my house to the garage is about ten minutes, and I kept to a speed of 30mph to not heat the tyres up too much. Will this give me an accurate reading of tyre pressure?

1 PSI per 10 degrees F.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

EightBit posted:

You might not get all the sludge up like that. Draining by pulling the plug tends to flush the pan pretty thoroughly.

*assuming the plug is the lowest point in the pan*

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

wesleywillis posted:

Is there a standard torque spec for fasteners that isn't application specific?

Like....... 1/4-20 nuts/bolts should be torqued to 35 ft lbs or 1/2-13 should be torqued to 80 ft lbs, unless there is a different spec stated by the manufacturer of a specific car/piece of machinery etc?

http://www.portlandbolt.com/technical/bolt-torque-chart/

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

If you didn't need 5 lugs and nuts to hold your wheels on, the people who made your car would only have put on 4.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Vice grips, or grind flats on the external round, and use a wrench.

or weld on a nut.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

This isn't like collecting bottles for recycling. You don't get a core charge back if you didn't pay it in the first place.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

eddiewalker posted:

Are batteries an exception? The guy at Advance told me I was dumb for dropping my dead one off at Walmart because his store would’ve given me $10 for it, purchase or not.

Sorry, yes. Because they actually make money on lead acid battery recycling. The lead never gets "used" so it gets melted down and cast into new batteries.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Galvanic corrosion requires an electrolyte to happen.

they sell anti-corrosion treatments that are basically spray cans that make a waxy coating.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Also if the op has TPMS sensors that are position dependent.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Minto Took posted:

With those kits, would it be valid to say there's an issue with the compressor if the refrigerant level is good or is more diagnosis needed?

Thats the problem. You cannot tell for certain with the single gauge recharge kits, because it is only showing you suction side pressure.

EDIT: also with a gauge that doesn't tell you the actual pressure.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

he means the 1-lb coleman style "camping gas" cylinders. they are usually a dark green.

the main danger with those is if the valve on the top is leaking, it can leak gas into your car, which is an enclosed space.

those cylinders are meant to be disposable, so the valves are cheaply made.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

also replace the service valve cores if they are leaking, obv.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

I mean, you totally could. Recovery machines and cylinders are available from Jeff or other online vendors. Low end to get started is going to be like 6 hundred. 8 with a vacuum pump and gauges

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Most passenger vehicles rolling in the US are either 19mm, which a 3/4" will fit,

or 21mm, which is approximately 13/16"

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MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

IOwnCalculus posted:

get from Rockauto seem like they're old stock that's sat around too long

This is literally exactly what they are, because that is Rockautos business model. they buy up new old stock auto parts cheap, then sell them at below normal market rates. everything they sell has been sitting on the shelf for years.

which is fine for poo poo like 02 sensors or spark plugs or wheel bearings or gasket kits. Wipers not so much.

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