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Three-Phase posted:I am thinking about buying a hybrid for my next vehicle and I am looking at the Toyota RAV4 hybrid. Not unless you plan on keeping the car for longer than 300,000km's. The only changes worth mentioning are brakes that last longer and coolant capacity about 1.5x that of a normal rav.
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Oct 15, 2016 19:43
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 00:29 |
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lol internet. posted:Any tips on how to check break pad usage without taking off a wheel off the car? The tip is to take the wheel off, you can't see the actual wear on any pads, front or rear, with the wheel on (unless you have a donk or something). The outside pad usually wears differently to the inner and they wear different side to side as well.
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Nov 16, 2016 07:46
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You can tell there's a pad there sure. But I've seen ordinary, well-kept run-of-the-mill cars exactly like yours where the inner pad might be like a quarter of the meat of the outer pad for no reason whatsoever.
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Nov 16, 2016 08:17
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Three-Phase posted:Yeah I've worked live around 800V and 4160V. I still treat the 250V battery bank with great respect. I have class 00 gloves that are good live to I think 500Vac. Replacing individual cells or cleaning corroded busbars is very do-able. I'd just be concerned about making sure replacement cells were matched/balanced. Only prius MG I've ever seen fail was because of a coolant leak and a dumb fucker of an owner. Source: worked at a toyota dealer for a few years.
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Nov 23, 2016 06:52
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tater_salad posted:My ex wife just bought a used highlander awd. I noticed the tires on it are pretty low on tread except one has quite a bit more tread (At least 1/8 of an inch more). In theory yes and it's good that you did that because having one prominently less worn tyre than the other three isn't a good thing on any car, awd or not. In practice it's a highlander and won't give two shits.
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Nov 24, 2016 19:11
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That's why she's your ex wife.
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Nov 25, 2016 00:43
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Parts Kit posted:2001 Ford Escape: Break two raw eggs into the radiator, fill with water.
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Nov 26, 2016 19:45
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Acid Reflux posted:Oh, that's perfect! After looking at the picture you posted before, I had wondered if that's how the mechanism actually worked. I'm going to go out and Kroil the living hell out of it and see if anything loosens up. A quick look online tells me I can get a whole assembly for under $20, so I'll just grab a new one if this doesn't start working. I just want to add to this: the little rubber bumper things at the corners of the bonnet assist in pushing it open. As they wear you're supposed to raise the height of them by twisting them in the mount, or turning a screw or similar. You adjust them upwards until they're applying enough pressure to keep the bonnet pop-happy, but not so much that it won't close by gravity.
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Dec 3, 2016 07:03
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Preoptopus posted:So using a longer extension to get a bolt off doesn't take more force to break loose? TBH I think the extension flexing takes up some of the torque which is why rattleguns seem to get less powerful the longer your extension gets. I don't think it takes more force but it certainly takes more angular travel on the wrench which makes it feel like it takes more force.
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Mar 26, 2017 01:00
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 00:29 |
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Hello AI goons! I have an issue with my 2008 2.4 transit diesel. It's a common rail motor with a screw on fuel filter in the engine bay. I'm pretty sure the fuel filter housing is faulty and allowing fuel to siphon back into the tank/air in the system when you leave the van sitting for a few days, it makes cold starting difficult. This is a documented problem on these vans. My question: the factory housing has no priming plunger (but it does have a clogging indicator, thanks Ford for another thing nobody asked for) and there is no electric lift pump in the tank. I don't like this and would like to fit a generic one with a plunger, not least because it'll make fuel filter changes much less painful (and cheaper). But. The factory housing has a temperature-controlled return circuit, for emissions reasons I guess. When the fuel is cold, excess fuel from the pump isn't allowed to drain straight back into the tank, it goes back to the filter housing where it's looped back to the pump. Above a certain temperature some sort of thermo valve opens and the fuel can circulate as normal. If I replace the housing with a generic plunger type and just run the pump return straight to the tank, am I gonna gently caress myself? Or am I overthinking this?
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Jul 14, 2019 21:03
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