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Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Not really. I’d say if you have a flat to still put a full sized wheel on the front and a donut on the back because most of your braking and all of your steering happens with the front wheels.

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Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



As far as I know, it’s still the pinch welds for jack points, regardless of how mangled they are. It’s more to do with position on the unibody than the state of the pinch weld.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



mr.belowaverage posted:

1988 Corvette 5.8 auto

I abruptly had a crank-no start condition last week. Drove to work no problem, no start at the end of the day. Cranks strong, feel like fuel starvation.

Work is a shop, so had the techs check and there was fuel pressure with key on, but drops immediately under load. They checked the filter and lines, and recommended a fuel pump.

I replaced the pump, and it started first try. It ran perfectly for about 5 minutes, then started to surge. Felt like it was dropping rpm, then would get a boost. I understand this model has some kind of stall saver, but not sure how it works. After a bit of this it died and won’t restart.

It sat for a day, then needed to be moved and started first try and drove a short distance. Then wouldn’t restart again.

What are common fuel delivery issues, and what do I check first here?

I’d check/replace your fuel filter. Particulate choking off a new pump and your ECU asking for more fuel, then forcing a bunch through and your ECU cuts pump production.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Henrik Zetterberg posted:

2018 Suburban Premiere 5.3L 4WD

Rear AC blower working:
- Good airflow across all settings
- Cold air

Front AC blower not working:
- No airflow across all settings
- All AC-related fuses good
- Front blower fuse good

Seems to point to the blower motor, which I find unlikely on something only 5 years old, or the blower resistor module. But I can't find ANY specific info online about how to actually find the resistor module on my specific car. I found one link that says that it doesn't use a resistor/relay module like most vehicles, but rather a generic AC control module mounted somewhere behind my front panel that I don't really want to dig into. Is this correct?

The blower it self is a pain in the dick to get to while having to contort my body upside down and diagonal to get to all the screws. I'm about to say gently caress it and just take it into a shop, but I want to be able to point them in the right direction.

Probably worth getting a shop manual for to track down the resistor.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Plugs and patches are two different things. I plug my tires all the time. Usually if it requires a patch then I need a new tire.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Deteriorata posted:

I think that would merit a thread of its own.

Yeah dude. Don’t waste your time looking, waste your time posting

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Very feasible. It’s only four bolts per side (usually, I haven’t looked on my FiST). Just YouTube a video.

That said, pick up a C clamp or something like it to help compress the piston just to make life easier.

Never pay for brake jobs, they’re super super simple.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Hadlock posted:

My dad had me assisting with brake jobs at 8 and by 10 it was one of my chores like mowing the lawn

:same:

Nothing like doing drum brakes with a pair of needle nose pliers as a spring puller.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



latinotwink1997 posted:

Is it possible to bleed brakes by yourself? The only time I ever did brakes was with someone more knowledgeable and I had to press the brake while they dealt with loosening/tightening the valve otherwise it’d get air in the system. I don’t do brakes myself simply because of this limitation.

This is also currently being discussed in the Tools thread

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



When’s the last time the transmission fluid was changed?

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



It’s a relatively cheap thing to do, and it could address the issue. Don’t get it flushed at that mileage, just changed. Flushing it might push chunks of poo poo around that dont wanna be pushed around.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



That’s just four and a half gallons, which means you can easily drain it into a five gallon bucket.

e: or you could bring it to a garage. It’s shouldn’t be expensive, since it’s just a different type of oil change.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



PainterofCrap posted:

Tire balance. If it does it only when you start out: some tires will impart a little shimmy until they warm up.
Bad tie rod end. If you can chamge or stop it by touching the brakes, or jogging the wheel (slightly) back & forth, it's one or both of these.

Sway bar end links have left the building. The jangling you're hearing are the washers designed to hold the rubber or urethane insulators, which are, sadly, no more.

Scroll up.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



If it’s brakes and gas it’s probably vacuum related

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Here’s the service manual pages for how to replace the Fiesta cabin air filter

https://imgur.com/gallery/orTUV4D

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Yeah, I think you just mash it. No way around it.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Inner Light posted:

https://i.imgur.com/yXw9lAF.jpg

Hi thread, here is my left front wheel of a 2013 Audi A4 with about 100k on the clock. I'm getting a nasty rattling / knocking sound whenever the brake is pressed in like 25%-75% and the wheel hits any kind of bump, and I also hear the knocking when turning the steering wheel and especially turning while braking.

Upper control arms were replaced awhile back so those should be fine, lowers look fine as well, no breaks in the rubber bushings. I suspect something is broken or somebody screwed up my brake job about a year ago, and a bolt just started coming loose.

It seems the brake pad is hitting the rotor properly however the positioning is suspicious, and on the top it's leaving the small (3mm ish?) un-worn part on the rotor. The passenger side front rotor is more centered and has noticeably less of that space outside the caliper/pad.

Any thoughts? I am taking it to a shop tomorrow but the guy is older, I'm just trying to save some money burning huge hourly fees at the dealer ($230+/hr and they almost never give you a break on book time). We'll see what he says.

I’m gonna guess tie rod end with 51% certainty.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Time to invest in a grease gun and do seasonal greasings

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



I’d bet it’s a bad AC clutch for the Fiesta. Re: the suburban, you used to be able to (and still might be able to) just replace them with “dumb” struts. Take this with a grain of salt, the last vehicles I’ve done this to were a 1995 Cadillac DeVille and a 1991 Olds 98 Touring.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Is there any goon-tested r12 AC refrigerant alternatives that don’t require an r134a upgrade? I don’t wanna switch my whole system to r134a right when it’s being phased out and end up in the same loving boat.

I’ve read about a handful of products and EnviroSafe keeps coming up, but I figured I’d ask the horse’s mouth.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Not if you don’t keep your oil in the fridge

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Sounds legally defensible, yeah. What’s the GVWR vs Curb?

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Anybody know what the name / purpose of this can attached to the side of the air box is?



It’s on a 73-79 Ford 460, and it’s sealed, but looks kinda like an oil filter. I’ve never had a really great answer when folks ask what it is, but maybe you do.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



cursedshitbox posted:

fwiw this is a helmholtz resonator

Neat! Thank you both

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



I’ve seen exhaust resonators (and removed and repaired and replaced them) but never on the intake. Given the broad engine application of the 460, it would make sense that I typically only saw the setup on Lincolns and Thunderbirds.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



The Fiesta ST has a sound symposer (plastic tube with diaphragm that leads to the cabin), but at least it’s real engine sound and not on the speakers.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Bring it to a different dealer, that’s an insane wait

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

The OEM is not going to pay anyone other than the dealer. Take it to the dealer if it's under warranty.

This is true, but again, what I said was take it to a different dealer. A two or three hour drive is worth it compared to waiting a month and change with a problem. Don’t bring it to a different garage, go to a different Kia (or Hyundai, I forgot which one) dealer within a weekend’s trip

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



I only keep PLPD (bare minimum required) on my Saturn Vue, but that’s mostly because it’s only worth $500

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Sounds like vacuum, yeah. You’re on the right track for sure, also check the master cylinder.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Head Bee Guy posted:

I've been trying to diagnose this knocking sound from the front suspension of my 2012 Acura TSX wagon. I don't have access to a jack at the moment, so my diagnostic options are limited. It sounds like a muffled popping, and almost always comes in twos or more depending on the road condition (pa-pa pa-pa pa-pa). I mostly notice it over slightly bumpy flat roads, not big bumps, just small road imperfections. No change in effect from turning, braking, or accelerating. On the highway, I noticed the car tends to drift to the left, but other than that the handling is stellar. I climbed under the car and tugged on everything I could reach, I couldn't find any play (at least using a gloved hand) in sway bar end links, tie rod ends, or other usual suspects.

I was thinking of taking it in for an alignment to slyly see if the tech notices anything awry. On these cars, which have a double wishbone suspension, what components are they actually adjusting in an alignment?

Could also be the strut mount.

They always adjust the outer tie rod end. Not sure how much/any adjustment can be done for your setup though.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Ok Comboomer posted:



should I be annoyed/concerned about this (they used the alignment ranges for the non-ST Fiestas)? I just brought the car back for a 25 mile retorque but apparently the alignment guy has gone home for the evening and so I’ll have to come back tomorrow. I imagine that at worst I’ll have to sit through another alignment, which would suck utter donkey dick after they made me flatbed the car in yesterday only to tell me that the tires I requested from the website on the phone were the ones that I needed (yeah, no poo poo) but that they had to get them in from another shop (yeah, no poo poo. That’s why I called in the morning).

I’m supposed to go on a ~65 mile round trip later this evening, is this gonna be a problem or can I assume the alignments are similar enough?

It will just wear your tires weird. If you’re gonna have em do another alignment tomorrow you should be fine.

e: not sure where I got that “gonna get em aligned tomorrow,” but yeah, you’re gonna need an alignment. That said, you could drive this one in and have em do it.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



What would you call the under-engine protector thing that many cars have now?

I’ve got a 14 Cherokee that had one made of fabric and aluminum that I tore off, partially on a road out to deer camp and then completely afterward because it was just flapping around down there. Now with winter coming I want to keep some road salt off the engine/trans but don’t know what the drat part is called.

It’s not a skid plate, it’s just like a cover.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



I guess Mopar calls it a “Belly Pan”.

I did find a PN though, thank you for the helpful search terms

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



From a cursory google, you’re only supposed to top it off after it’s at full charge. But I’ve never done this, so I dunno. I woulda assumed you need sulfuric acid.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Gunshow Poophole posted:

somehow i've cracked not one but two wheels beyond repair on my awful car.

Is https://www.tascaparts.com a reliable vendor of parts and if so why on earth are they selling wheels for my Ford Edge for like $100 less than everywhere else?

e: oh no lmao the reviews are bad as gently caress should hav eknown it's too good to be true

Tascas fine, just nowhere near as good as Rock Auto. They ship slow

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Probably cheaper, as is the answer to all of these “why the gently caress …” questions

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Ok Comboomer posted:

https://youtu.be/XAWcKYt2mbM?si=YEzfsV3VftmhZEfz

lol they won’t let you sell a manual Mazda2/Yaris, a platform they literally make race cars out of, but they’ll gladly sell an HHR with vents cut into the hood

This really doesn’t show that C&B is failing in any way. Cars seem to be selling around what you’d expect them to. And in any auction site, there a few outliers.

I’d imagine they’d so no to a non-ST Fiesta or a non-GTI Golf.

The HHR you mention is an SS, whose power plant set the Nurburgring record for FWD cars for almost a decade.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



You can get three different torque wrenches for like $40 from harbor freight. It’s absolutely the way to go.

You might be able to find torque specs in forums and stuff, but your best bet is a shop manual.

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Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



I’ve heard bad things about knocking carbon off DI valves in large enough chunks to damage the turbo, and similar spooky stories about exhaust temperatures affecting the oil cooling, but literally everything is hearsay.

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