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Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

RadioPassive posted:

In 2012 in Massachusetts, a driver backed into the drivers door of my parked Ford focus. No matter, their insurance bought me a new door.

In 2019, I moved the focus to California, and California would not register the vehicle because the original information from the sticker on the door jam was missing, and the new door had a sticker that did not match the original VIN. I needed to schedule an appointment with a California highway patrol officer to verify the vehicle before I could bring it to the DMV for a smog check, registration, and everything else.

California doesn't care if it's 50 state legal, they will inspect every detail on your way into the state.

While I enjoy having a laugh on CA for most of the absurdities...VIN inspections with the police happen in even the most reddish of states for out of state purchases.

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Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Head Bee Guy posted:

I’ve been getting pretty poor gas mileage out of my 2012 TSX wagon. I’m getting about 15 mpg city (normal driving). Anything I should check that could be causing this?

Bad thermostat/ECT causing the engine to not go into full loop...along with tons of others for it to run rich. You should be getting codes or a MIL.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Worked both ends?

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Jonny 290 posted:

Back side is a tight fit with just the wire, no jeweler's screwdriver pokey clearance

Wish I could help more...

I feel your pain, had a mommy squirrel build a nest in my daughter's jeep along the street. Took out ABS, evap sensor, codes out the wazoo, yada yada.

Best part was discovering the mess, and wishing I had David Attenborough flown in to document the fiasco.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

You'll be fine.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Yeah, my excuse to pick up a nut buster was removing an anode from a water heater (which are notorious for removal). I had the thing loaded with water, strapped family members to it, used cheater bars, my other mid impact, etc...wouldn't budge.

With the big boy it zipped the drat thing out in less than 2 seconds.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Impressive, most impressive.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Point is...you don't need a torque wrench calibrated to super tight tolerances such as a Snap-on (or whomever makes them). You want consistency across the criss-cross or star pattern which something like a HF will be more than happy to provide at these torque levels.

Now, if stranded changing a spare. Stand on the lug wrench and hear the creeeek. Move on.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Safety Dance posted:

Tighten until the lug stud yields and then back it off a few percent, gotcha

Are you implying that is an unsafe practice?

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Also, seem to recall a manufacture (I'm thinking perhaps BMW) where fluids would siphon into the wiring harnesses.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

That looks the ambient air sensor...they usually clip in some where way up front, either a hole in bumper or somewhere just behind it.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Slap the pads in, grease pins.

Old days, you had to some slather some crap on for squealing. Now with the shims they add on it is no worry at all.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

i dont really understand why you would buy a WRX and then put poo poo rubber on it

Air Jordans on a quadriplegic.

200-220HP?

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

DarkHorse posted:

My friend has a 2008(?) Ford Escape. He's temporarily indisposed and we need to move it. We have two keys/fobs that turn in the ignition, and one of the fobs activates the locks, however neither will start the car.

I'm 99% certain it's the Securilock immobilizer preventing it from starting and that my friend has the key with the chip and these other keys have triggered the PATS or something. The battery isn't dead and the securilock indicator on the dash flashes, slowly if the key isn't in the ignition and rapidly if you attempt to start it. Battery isn't dead because headlights show up fine during fob unlock.

Here's what I've tried to get it started:

  • Holding the key in the driver side door lock for 30-60 seconds
  • pulling fuse 36, which is supposed to be the PATS transceiver
  • disconnecting the positive battery terminal for five minutes
  • disconnecting the negative battery terminal with the key in the ON position before reconnecting it
  • various other rekey sequences
  • trying one key 15+ minutes after trying the other, with the other fob nowhere in proximity

Obviously I have full access to the car, battery, fuses, etc. and one working fob, I just don't know the specific incantation to get either of the two keys I have to work.

Any noise at all when attempting to start the car?

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

DarkHorse posted:

Just the noises from the entertainment system powering on. The engine doesn't even attempt to turn over

Last time started?

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

File a NTSB complaint.

Please.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

lol, sorry, Boeing was on my mind with that one.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Josh Lyman posted:

Follow up, is Kirkland Signature full synthetic comparable to Mobil 1 Extended Performance?

You'd have to do a deep dive into Bob Is the Oil Guy but I'd have no issue running any full synth for 10K miles with a good filter.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Yeah...and a ugh...

Believe it or not they make sockets for expanded lug nuts. And it is a PITA.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Olympic Mathlete posted:

Noticed my car was pulling to one side and one caliper was getting hot. Put the car up, took a look and noticed the piston had corrosion on it. These were new on the car 15 months ago. I got in touch with the place I purchased them from and the manufacturer is saying "the piston has been contaminated with brake fluid for it to corrode like this"

I was under the impression the piston has to come into contact with brake fluid in order to y'know, brake... The main seal that keeps the fluid in the caliper is still mint, the outer seal which keeps the grime out was a little soggy, especially compared to the new ones I've put in their place. New piston has already gone in and I'm not toooooo bothered, I just want to be a Karen for a moment (mainly because I hate poo poo quality parts, especially ones which claim to be OEM equivalent)

Opinions? (this is the offending side, 1 piston)





Basically, it is a "they can eff off" type of deal.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

kastein posted:

So far that list includes getting myself a laser alignment machine, rebuilding an automatic transmission, rebuilding a steering rack, and rebuilding an AC compressor. I've already done all the rest, it just took 16 years of nearly pathologically self reliant car nerding to reach that point.

A couple things I've resigned myself to farm out...and it basically boils down to shop space:

1) Tire balancing. Yeah, could score some old school balancer being pitched...

2) Thing I absolutely have no desire for: Alignments. I've gotten by "batching" up all the work and dragging a vehicle in once to get it over with. I'll get what I think is close with a tape measure and everything else to get it there.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

AFewBricksShy posted:

A guy in our 86 club had this wrap, it was awesome. (he's since changed it to an MF Ghost wrap, with the same "sketch marks")





TIL at my age...paying extra to see stretch marks.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

My first thought on the above was "door jamb chaffing" and not the actuator.

There is so much weird poo poo automakers stuff through the door jamb. Hell, I wouldn't be surprised there isn't some oceanic internet link that doesn't run through one.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

strangehamster posted:

I got a $2000 estimate to change the front struts/alignment on my Grand Caravan. Can I do it much cheaper if I buy parts from Rock Auto and spend a weekend in my garage? I have intermediate mechanical skills.

Yes.

But poo poo can go sideways real quick with a broken bolt.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Dr. Lunchables posted:


I’m just bitter because I’m an Oldsmobile man.

Yeah...first car, a '72 Olds.

Top five favorite design of all time...'68 (or so) Toronado (Along with the Eldo in the same age range).

Between all that and the 442 designation, just pure awesome sauce.

People salivate over the six pack Chrysler. In '57 Olds had their J-2 option.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

So what is the failure point on that? Looks like rodent damage and not chaffing.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

NomNomNom posted:

Thanks all. Ordered a kit with new pins and connectors. Is soldering the preferred method for extending the wires or butt crimp connectors?

It's almost certainly rodent damage, the underside of the hood has some fiberglass insulation that had also been chewed on. Crazy since we drive the car everyday. Wouldn't be the first car mice/squirrels damaged, they ate like half of the wiring harness of our pontiac vibe

Daughter's Jeep started throwing ABS lights, and it got drove every day. I test drove it around with a scan code reader, etc. trying to make sense of what was going on because she wasn't the greatest explainer of car problems.

Anyways, finally popped the hood. Engine bay was filled with leaves around the ABS unit. Started yanking leaves out and noticed movement. Turns out was the nest/home for a bunch of baby squirrels.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Just reiterate good defensive driving skills and no distractions.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Steve French posted:

It was very wedged in there. First attempt was stick, no way. Tongs nope. Rubber gloves was the move.

Actual appropriate content for the thread while I’m here: belt seems fine so I should be able to just loosen the tensioner, toss it back on, and retension. When rotating the tensioner back, do I need to make sure it’s in a particular specific position (not too loose, not too tight) or does it somehow maintain correct tension as long as it’s roughly correct? 2022 ford 7.3 (Godzilla, not power stroke)

According to FSM, yep...

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Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

No, tensioner only sits one way. You place torque on the end of it (looks like the usual 3/8 square" to slip belt on or off and release the tension. Done.

That bolt only holds the tensioner to the block.

Colostomy Bag fucked around with this message at 19:18 on May 12, 2024

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