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wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
I've never seen a split boot that was two pieces.
Only one piece with a slit in it.

Also, holy fuckin cock poo poo, what dealers are charging 250 bucks an hour?
I live in a fairly high cost of living area and the local Mazda dealer is 110 CDN an hour. Toyota Dealer is the same. Subaru IIRC is 105 per hour.

Independents last I checked were about 90-100

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wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Colostomy Bag posted:

They are still replacing frames. Coworker had his replaced a few months ago.

Whatever happened to thatgoon that had to get the frame replaced on his, but Toyota told him the recall was over with?

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Is this a brand new car? Why the poo poo does CA want to have a brand new car smogged?
I'll assume that its 50 state legal already.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
A couple(?) months ago I changed the PCV valve in my '09 Corolla (2.4l) and since then have been noticing a bit of a burning oil smell after I've been driving for a while. I have no idea if the smell was there before, just that I started noticing it after changing the PCV. I've checked around the valve and the hose thinking that the hose being 15 years old at the time might have cracked and started to leak after changing the valve but there are no noticeable oil leaks from that area.
I know these things burn oil and this one is no exception.
I smell it when I get out of the car, so at the sides as opposed to at the back by the tail pipe or something.

The valve itself came with some sealant already on the threads, and as I mentioned I didn't see any visible leaks. The exhaust manifold is on the front of the engine. PCV on the back, though I guess oil could be dripping down to the cat or something.

What else is there on these things to check on the top end besides the valve cover gasket? Or (hopefully not) the head gasket?

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Cactus Ghost posted:

stupid automotive question: how hosed am i if i buy a pre-CA-smog (1975 or earlier) jeep cj? i know jeeps are legendary for how much money you can pour into them, my question is how much will I have to pour into it to daily drive it and/or go play in the dirt on my off days

totally hosed.

youre going to bankrupt yourself.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
God that top one looks like the Isuzu connector that goes in to the back of the control box on the drill I've been fixing up for the last few weeks except its got about 20 wires instead of three. Same idea though, a bunch of round connections and then some flat sided ones.

Sorry that doesn't help much. But unless you need to I'd do as the other goon says and just cut it off and put on a newer, more common connection.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Full Collapse posted:

Besides three points across, to measure tread depth, how many times around?

About to swap snow tires for regular tires and I’m hoping to have the regular tires rotated properly.

Unless there are visible flat spots probably one is enough but for how long it takes doing it in 3-4 spots is plenty.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
The whole outside edge of that tire looks hosed up. Do the others look like that? When is the last time the car had an alignment done.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Did you, or anyone else who might drive the car run in to a curb or hit a pothole?

I don't know specifically about the damage aside from what others are saying, but the rest of the outside edge of that tire could be from underinflation or a bad alignment.
I'm not you and you aren't me, but I get my stuff aligned twice a year. Thats probably excessive, but it works for me. You might want to check the alignment and get it done a bit more frequently.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Annath posted:

Got it.

I appreciate the info from y'all. I'm going to have to start being more diligent about this stuff. I thought I was doing good by getting the oil changed on time and paying for the high grade stuff lol.

Luckily, work owes me a bonus, so if I can make it to the 15th I can replace probably the whole set of tires.

You should consider getting your other fluids changed too at some point in the not too distant future.
Most people think the only thing you need to do is change the oil and "its maintained", but brake fluid, coolant, transmission fluid, power steering fluid, should all be replaced periodically. Differential and transfer case should be done too but you don't have those in a Mazda 3.

The one thing people might recommend against however is the transmission (unless its manual) fluid. Unless you are actually having issues with the transmission.
When transmissions go way too long without a fluid change sometimes changing the fluid can contribute to other expensive problems so in certain cases you might just be better off monitoring the fluid level and topping it off if necessary.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
I'm just taking a wild guess that the piston is somewhere about the red circle in the pic and if the OP says the top of the pic is up, then that bleeder is definitely not at the top.

Also, I know that I don't know everything, but I've never seen a brake line that come in at the bottom of a caliper.
Not saying it doesn't exist but I've never seen one.

Also there definitely could be poo poo stuck in the lines as POC said.. If the rubber line going to the rear axle was old it could at least explain some of the problem

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Well I got 9 years out of the original battery on my Corolla and according to the dealer read out thing it was "at 70% capacity" or some such. I was tempted to just keep it until it died to see how long I could get out of it but gently caress it. I got a new one. 6ish years ago.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Doesn't sound that unreasonable to me. Depends on your market locally.

Not all car parts are obtained at rock auto prices, delivery within the hour adds a significant mark up to the parts, it would need to be aligned afterwards That can add 150ish to the cost. Around here most "normal" shops (not high end luxury car dealers/specialty shops) are charging 100-130 per hour but according to a goon, possibly in this thread, their locals are charging 200 + or something like that. Lots of shops these days are charging a "shop materials fee" that includes stuff like grinding wheels if they have to cut poo poo off, brake cleaner, rags etc.. that'll add 20-50 bucks. Plus tax and so on.

E: not quite what I remembered but close kinda.

Dr. Lunchables posted:


. Dealerships will charge $250 an hour for work. and independent shops usually charge between $150-200 an hour.

wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Mar 17, 2024

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Charliegrs posted:

Yep thats what was done. And the mechanic told me they were not bottom of the barrel parts like Doreman. I mean I felt like it was on the high end but I wasn't sure and I seem to be getting different opinions on it. Not that it really matters much, the job is done now. I just probably won't be going back to that mechanic. God I hate moving and having to find a good mechanic again.

I guess at this point it doesn;t matter like you said because the job is done, but what was the cost breakdown? How many hours of labour at what rate etc?
What were the actual parts costs?

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

mentholmoose posted:

I got a 2016 Honda Civic. I recently had my wheels swapped out for the end of winter, and they told me to come back to check the torque. When I did they said there were a couple nuts a bit loose and they re-tightened them. I've driven about 95 miles since then with no issues, is there any reason not to suspect that they just screwed up torquing the lugnuts the first time?

Maybe they did.

But it happens regularly. Thats why they tell you to come back to check.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

VelociBacon posted:

Greasing the bolts would wildly change the appropriate torque spec wouldn't it?

It makes it easier to overtighten
The torque wrench will click later than it should.

Almost had a wheel fall off on me years ago. Sounded like a helicopter hovering right over my car. Since then I check twice after I change a tire(s) with the car on the ground,take it for a 10 minute drive, check again. Check the next day,ns then about a week later. Don't really pay attention to the kms I've driven though.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Safety Dance posted:

Tighten until the lug stud yields and then back it off a few percent, gotcha

Soooo....... Chevette lugs?

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
When is the last time it was serviced?

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

His Divine Shadow posted:

I placed an order last night for spare parts but decided not to get the torque wrench :)

I just can't decide if it's a bad or good choice to buy a cheap one but also I can't afford a new one. Like I think 20€ is worth fussing about.

e:
Also I've seen the workers in shops change other peoples tires when picking up my own cars over the years, they tighten with an impact only. So having it done professionally at the places I've been to, don't involve no torque wrenches.

They usually use "torque sticks" that get it "close" to what the factory spec should be. Tire shops are trying to get you the gently caress in and the gently caress out afap so they ain't got time for that poo poo. But a torque stick can get you close enough.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
If none of those work you can usually find weatherproof connectors at Napa and the like. In my experience they come with pins and all you do is crimp the wires to the pin, insert in the right hole and done.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
I swear I'm not trying to start an argument. I swear it.


When you do a brake job, do you put any lube on the "ears" of your brake pads?

Some people say no, because the grease will collect dust, grit etc and cause them to stop moving or move less freely.
Other people say yes because its a moving part, and you should lubricate where two parts rub against each other.

In my mind, both arguments make sense. I've definitely seen occasions where grease ends up picking up crud and making things more difficult to move, but also can see why no lube can also be bad.

I have and have not on numerous occasions.

When I have, I usually use a minimal amount and only on the spots where contact is expected.
When I haven't I try to make sure the surfaces are clean and rust free.

I haven't noticed a difference, but I've never really paid much attention one way or the other. Except to say that both have had negative results, *sometimes*.

What's AI's thoughts on the matter?

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Take them to a laundromat.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

kastein posted:

Ford simply made the engineering decision to roll over from 400k back to 300k, repeatedly. Why? Who knows.

They never thought the cars would last that long.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
When you're installing a heli-coil or whatever brand of thread repair insert, is it worth the time to put loctite on the insert?

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Shamelessly quoting my invisible post from months ago as I am changing back to my summer tires and just saw that I have a broken coil spring on my Corolla.
Thus, this repair needs to be moved significantly up the priority list.

The TLDR is as below. Is Gabriel brand stuff better than Monroe, or FCS in the quick strut department?

wesleywillis posted:

2009 Corolla, 2.4l engine, manual trans.

Several years ago I replaced the struts, springs etc with new stuff. I wanted KYB struts as they were the OEM poo poo and I wanted OEM poo poo.

Unfortunately, there did not seem to be available at the time (and still aren't apparently) KYB quick struts. So I had to buy all the individual components and put it all together with spring compressors which was sketchy as hell but I did it and everything worked the way it was supposed to.

I want to avoid that this time so I've been trying to cross reference part numbers and see if I can use quick struts from a Corolla S on my XRS model.

So far I have found:

Rear springs are the same. Or at least, the Moog part numbers are the same for the 1.8l and 2.4l models. If I had to guess, I'd say that they are the same from other manufacturers as well.

According to the KYB website, the rear struts are different part numbers.
Rock auto also lists them as different also.

According to both KYB and Rock auto, The front struts are the same part number between the XRS and S models.

On the Moog website, the S model front springs are a different part number from the XRS model.

So: different struts on the rear, but the same springs. On the front, different springs but the same struts.

For the front, I guess I can see why there are different springs. Different engines, one heavier than the other.

But why the poo poo would there be different struts (but the same springs) in the rear? They both have a twist beam rear axle. As far as I know the only difference is rear discs vs rear drums, but the studs bolt on to a stud behind the hubs, so there Never mind.


Fake edit: The rear twist beam axles are different.

Looks like I'm not going to get KYB quick struts.

I guess my options currently are FCS, Monroe, and Gabriel.

Anyone have experience with any of these? I've always said that Monroe products are the parts that you put on your car if you're about to sell it and want to advertise that it has "New (whatever)". But maybe they're not that bad anymore. The others I've never really heard anything about them. Good or bad.

The car will be 15 years old in September and I split driving duties between it and another vehicle, so its not getting as much mileage as it used to but at the present time I'm palnning on keeping it for the foreseeable future so I want to use decent quality parts on it.


TL;DR - Are Gabriel, Monroe, or FCS quick struts good or bad?

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Full Collapse posted:

I’m fairly certain someone could build a VIN-less Mustang from the Jeg’s and Summit catalogs alone.

I've heard that too.

How the gently caress would that even work? I guess it would vary by country/ state etc, but could someone do that and then legally register and drive it?
Would it get a kit car title?

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Every year.
Do the full change. Only add if you're low

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

His Divine Shadow posted:

Perhaps the first time, but it's not a viable long term solution to go a shop every time I deal with the front suspension components on this car because that's gonna happen again soon by the look of some drive shaft gaiters. I feel I should be able to perhaps machine something more solid to measure between the wheels than string.

I got this car with the intention of doing all the work on it myself, at one point the engine will come out for an overhaul and I plan to rebuild the gearbox then too. I might get a spare engine and gearbox first though to look over and get used to it.

You may have to accept the fact that some things you probably can't do yourself. Whether you want to or not.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

AFewBricksShy posted:

2014 F150.
My key fob is no longer unlocking my driver door. I don't hear anything from the driver door when I press lock and unlock, passenger door is fine.
Same goes for the door lock button. The key itself will lock and unlock the door.

This tells me the actuator is probably either disconnected or bad.
Does anyone have any advice as to what to possibly check? The actuator looks to be about a $50 part and I found a youtube video on replacement, but if there's something easy to check first I'd rather do that.

Does it lock but not unlock?

Its probably the actuator. Do you have a multimeter?
You can hook it up to the plug for the actuator and see if you get a bit of voltage when you hit the button, or key fob.
That should probably give you an answer as to if its the actuator or something down the line.

Even ford can't be dumb enough to use a separate fuse for just the driver side can they?

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

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strangehamster posted:

My guy at Midas quoted me about 800 parts 800 labor 200 alignment, I’m going to ask a friend if they’re up for it. Is anyone from the Des Moines metro?

I just paid 800 cdn dollars for 4 quick struts for my corolla from rock auto.. That includes shipping. I know there's a difference in price/ currency for different parts and all that, but it seems a bit high if it's just the fronts.

Labor, if they're buying parts separately and putting them together, doesn't seem unreasonable. It's probably 5-6 hours work and lots of places are charging over 100 per hour these days.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Cowslips Warren posted:

ugh. I don't know if it'd be under warranty still or not, but man it seems to be a great case for hubris whenever you think things are going good and that little light pops on.

If your gas tank cap isn't tight or is leaking, it can cause those sorts of codes too.
Check to make sure it's tight, they're also cheap and probably didn't get changed when you got your new tank.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
I always found it interesting that back in the day, or at least when I was younger, not sure about way way back I guess.
The dealers were divided up as chev, Olds, Cadillac and Pontiac, Buick, gmc. I dont think i ever saw a pontiac, olds, and say.... chevy dealer for example.

Though I might have seen Buick, Pontiac, Cadillac dealers once or twice

And I'm sure some of you will recall when they "merged" Pontiac and gmc.

wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 16:41 on May 4, 2024

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

spacetoaster posted:

Got my 16 year old son a 1990 Dodge ram pickup truck. It's got some peeling paint on the hood and roof and I want to get it painted.

I have never gotten a car painted before, what am I looking for to make sure I get a quality job of it?
A reputable body shop, and money.
Most of the work is prep. It should take an hour to actually do the paint and probably less. The prep work can range in many hours.

Ask people you know, look at Google reviews etc....

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Colostomy Bag posted:

Daughter's Jeep started throwing ABS lights, and it got drove every day. I test drove it around with a scan code reader, etc. trying to make sense of what was going on because she wasn't the greatest explainer of car problems.

Anyways, finally popped the hood. Engine bay was filled with leaves around the ABS unit. Started yanking leaves out and noticed movement. Turns out was the nest/home for a bunch of baby squirrels.

My boss had some baby squirrels delivered from the dealer where his Prius was being serviced back to his house via Uber one time a couple years ago.

Fuckin squirrels.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Iirc most serpentine tensioners are spring loaded

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wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Yeah, if you look at the tensioner in the pic, you stick your half inch(? maybe 3/8") ratchet drive in the square hole and use that to tilt the tensioner so you can put the belt on.

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