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How would one figure out the correct distance from valves/center of cylinder to the butterfly valve of a ITB? Some s65 ITB (52mm) might have fallen into my lap. might do something stupid to the extra 2zzge I have sitting around. Staged injectors? Launch control? sheeeeeit. I have found calculators for ITB size, runner length, runner cross-section. Not where to put the butterfly valve in the runner. Stock 2zz 50hp per cylinder, 6800rpm peak torque, redline ~8.2k. Stock s65 50hp per cylinder, 3400rpm peak torque, 8.3k redline For reference, calculations on the 2zzge cylinder bore. 82mm cylinder stroke. 85mm cylinders. 4 cm^3 1795 target rpm 6800 (stock 2zz torque peak) Intake Duration 292 Ideal runner lenght, 1st & 2nd resonance distances 475mm, 236mm ~18.7", 9.35" Ideal Runner Diameter 41.65 mm, ~1.6" Basically, I want to design a runner to maximize stuff but I am dumb as poo poo. I have researched some of the other things to consider. Like shape. Having draft to build velocity to a smaller diameter that goes into a parallel section for atomization/uniform air, small resonance relief on top of valve. I would also appreciate any info on stuff I was to stupid to consider. no lube so what fucked around with this message at 20:39 on May 25, 2021 |
# ¿ May 25, 2021 20:30 |
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# ¿ May 21, 2024 02:27 |
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mekilljoydammit posted:S65 ITBs are a nice design to retrofit to things because you can respace them pretty easily and are sized reasonably. Cool. Sounds practical. I used an online calculator. The 2zz cross port section is ~2.1"x1.475" oval/rounded square. Like you figured. Also looking at the s65 trumpets in the plenum, they look pretty short. The packaging would be tight. The intake is up against a fire wall. I couldn't have them going straight out or I wold have to cut the fire wall, like this guy Clearance is going to be a bitch. I am going to have to bend stuff downward. Either trumpets bent or pre ITB runner bent. Then plenum (what % of displacement?) ducted to passanger side vent. There is enough clearance that people have fit the greddy celica supercharger kit in the spyder without having to alter the firewall, but the standard supercharger found on the lotus cannot fit without altering the firewall. For $150 I might just get the ITB and see what's up.
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# ¿ May 26, 2021 00:20 |
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mekilljoydammit posted:Don't forget this is "distance from valve to trumpet" - so the runner length in the head helps. FWIW the S65 manifold-side cross section is about 2.1"x1.3"ish, and is about 4.25" long from manifold side to where the trumpets would seat... so ballpark, 2.5" of runner in the head, plus 4.25" of length in the TB, maybe an inch to join the head to TB, and you're at 3-4" for trumpet length. I got a set of S65 bodies to figure out some stuff, I can take measurements if you want. Word. I've been marinating on this. I just finally got the 2zz running well and have gone through a few tanks of gas My long term goal is ITB because idk, just feel like it. The s65 bodies do seem like a fine pairing, just need to figure packaging. At ~25-50 per throttle body, with fuel lines, injectos, linkage, map sensors, etc seems like a pretty good value. Part of my thought on optimal length was putting the ITB vertically, being the end of the optimal runner. basically ~where the manifold plennium feed the runner on a 2zz stock manifold. have very short trumpets post butterfly into a box ~1.8L, "ram" inlet from piping that pulls from passenger vent/ low in engine compartment away from the headers. I wold also need to move the alternator, but there is pleantly of room for that. Would also need a ems. Seems like a link monsoon or aem ems4 would be the ticket. This would be down the road. After a lot of other stuff is taken care of. In the mean time, I could fabricate the runners, etc. trying to get the packaging right on the toasted engine I have sitting here. anyway., Now with the car running, I am starting to figure out what I want to do with the suspension. Long term goal is more touge than racer. Crisp balanced handling with a decent ride over rough roads. So probably little less spring and a little more sway bar. Who has good calculators for McPherson strut stuff? or general My goal is a nice road car, ~2hz, but get the geometry right. Currently it's on lowering springs. and I have an adjustable sway up front, oem rear. open diff. I am not sure how I want to go about it. Some people have cobbled to gather kits using s13 RCA, passat & s14 tie rods, etc. A lot of people just don't bother and end up with super stiff springs and heavy camber. I think I know the tires I want to run after I use up the one's I have. (dunlop z111 195/50/15 on my 15x7 wheels) I am under the intention of figuring out the suspension from the tire up. Tire/wheel-> spring rate/sways for -> calc ride height/wheel rate/motion rate/arcs and droop -> dampening -> calc geometry corrections over range -> alignment numbers-> have dampeners and adj sway/ tire pressure to tune.
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# ¿ May 29, 2021 20:17 |
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iroguebot posted:So I test drove a 2017 Corolla SE and it drove well, was very clean inside and out, carfax didn't have anything shocking like rental car or any accidents, the only thing that I saw on the carfax that stood out was a ~20k mile change of oil towards it being traded in to the dealership that has it now. I've been sort of a stickler for oil changes and monitoring all the records so maybe they just took it to a place that didn't pop up as a service, I don't know. I checked it out monday and looked at the dipstick and checked the fluids and everything looked good, oil was crystal clear but had just been changed before being put up for sale. Two previous owners, car is 59k miles. Any red flags with it? Are CVT transmissions in corollas good and reliable? How bad do you need a car? I just picked up a 2021 Corolla hatchback SE in July for 20250 out the door with .9% financing from my credit union. I had to wait ~50 days for the car to get here, but I got it at 9 miles with a 60k warranty. I got the manual, has some cool features for daily driving like hill hold, rev match. Their new cvt has a real gear and suppose to be nice. I never test drove a cvt though.
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# ¿ Nov 10, 2021 16:28 |
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hot cocoa on the couch posted:I've thought about selling my rally car and thus, my 4Runner since I wouldn't need a tow/recce vehicle, but aside from buying an old car, there aren't a lot of options for a small car anymore (and I already own an old RX-7). What are the smallest cars you can buy new in Canada these days? Preferably ones that aren't poo poo but I've owned plenty of poo poo cars so that's not a deal breaker. Coupe/2-seater probably but open to considering sedans and 5 doors. Along with other suggestions, the regular Corolla hb SE w/ MT is a fun small car. I have one, reminds me a lot of a civic ep3 si. Not fast but plenty, nimble, shifter feels great, NA I have been considering selling it for a twin, but probably won’t. It’s real good for the price. Insane option, LFx swap a RX8
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# ¿ Jan 1, 2022 14:06 |
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Ok Comboomer posted:Don’t you sell it. Hold onto it and then use it as a trade-in on a Corolla GR. I prob won't. I've been doing the grass is always greener/cabin fever/coulda would shoulda/daydreaming mental gymnastics. It's really hard for me to make a case to get a different car. Even the GR. I'm going to lust after the GR just like I am now over the new twins. Putting a gentleman's fart can on a YOOL 2021 NA 4banging manual hatchback just has that essence of irresistible.
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# ¿ Jan 1, 2022 18:03 |
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Ok Comboomer posted:rad I’m a big fan of 15” for sticky tires. 205 50 15 is inexpensive and has a huge selection of 200tw/300tw
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# ¿ Apr 14, 2022 02:57 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:
I thinking you can dual intake cam them and they have the same suspension dimensions of a Subaru so used could over just bolt up. Honestly, would make decent autox shitbox for a dude on a budget.
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# ¿ Oct 20, 2022 13:28 |
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Ecoboost mustang can be incredibly dope https://youtu.be/gGyIp8Ok0p8
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# ¿ Apr 7, 2023 22:11 |
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Hadlock posted:
Having the short arm up top can help with the dynamic camber curve If the trapezoid was the other way, the tire would gain positive camber in compression With the arm shorter up top, you gain negative camber through compression.
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# ¿ May 12, 2023 22:51 |
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You’ll have to change the rear diff fluid every so often. Interval is ~30k, but early and often is never bad. Do you have access to service records? See if it’s been changed recently, consider checking/changing anyway.
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# ¿ Jul 1, 2023 18:06 |
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Inner Light posted:Just drive don’t overthink, follow any owner’s manual recommended service items at the appropriate intervals. Those AWD systems are mostly “lifetime” fluid at the diff and probably more software than anything these days. I agree on not overthinking it, but if you can change fluids always changes fluids at/before interval.
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# ¿ Jul 3, 2023 02:53 |
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Twerk from Home posted:Incredible username/post combo. If it’s a sealed unit without a drain or fill port, than whatevs. It’s going to do what it’s going to do. Material science has came a long way, and I’m sure some units don’t need it/ won’t be the probable cause of failure if the unit does fail. Google leads me to believe the Honda unit does have an interval and can be serviced. Takes about 2 quarts. ~$30-50 of fluids and limited labor. Looks like a used rear diff for a CRV is ~2-300 bucks. New $1.5k. So what, owning the vehicle for 100k, it would be like under $150 fluid to insure against a $300 part, and more costly labor. Idk if that insurance pencils out, vs letting the dice roll. I think the follow the interval if there is one, and don’t over think it is pretty fair.
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# ¿ Jul 3, 2023 04:35 |
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if you are trying to do it on the cheap, you could try to test/clean yourself. Here is one dudes way on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1LWXf_QEAU
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# ¿ Jul 10, 2023 17:20 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:They're diesel injectors, this isn't going to be the same (and any sort of in-place testing needs to be done very carefully because diesel injectors operate at pressures high enough to cause injection injuries). more you know, thanks for calling out my bad advice
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# ¿ Jul 12, 2023 00:49 |
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XYZAB posted:How bad is it really to drive down a gravel road on Nitto NT555 G2s? I was invited to a coworker's after-office BBQ tomorrow but didn't realize they live out in the boonies before I accepted, and apparently there's a 10km stretch of gravel somewhere between here and there. The buy who convinced me to try these tires was incredibly adamant that I should avoid gravel at at all costs on these tires, or if it's unavoidable, to drive super slow over it, but it's not really realistic to go 10km/h for an hour on what would be an otherwise 20 minute drive. I'm just some idiot in the peanut gallery, but I wouldn't stress over it and drive normal. 320tw is not super soft and they are highway rated.
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# ¿ Jul 18, 2023 03:01 |
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Car insurance Is there a car insurance thread? maybe BFC? What's the most efficient way to shop car insurance in America? Ask for quotes through the web? Take to a broker? both?
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# ¿ Aug 5, 2023 18:25 |
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eddiewalker posted:As an older-millennial who assumes that every middleman is costing me money, it was hard to believe, but a good insurance broker is awesome. thank you, good call!
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# ¿ Aug 6, 2023 02:46 |
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The Atomic Man-Boy posted:Some days I forget, but sure. you could consider window deflectors along with the cracking. this will prevent rain from getting it & make it less obvious your window is cracked along.
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# ¿ Aug 14, 2023 00:36 |
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Network42 posted:It's an RX7 in Omaha Nebraska, I don't think there's anyone who going to be able to do a proper PPI sadly. SCCA nationals for solo/autocross is out of Lincoln Nebraska every year. https://nrscca.com/site/index.php/programs/autocross-solo Maybe reach out to them and see if they can connect you with a competent person to do PPI?
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# ¿ Nov 10, 2023 18:32 |
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Sleepytime posted:We got an inspection on my wife's 2011 RAV4 and they said the struts and strut mount bellows are worn out and they recommended the following: my guess would be that's ~600 in parts or less. an alignment afterwards would be ~100-150. so what, $1100 in labor. that seems steep to me. if the shocks are just blown, you can drive it for however long makes sense. the ride is just going to be more springy. With that, you won't have as good as traction since the wheels load/unload a little when bouncing. so, I would be pushing corners. honestly, quick struts are on the easier end of the DIY spectrum. Check out a couple of videos.
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# ¿ Nov 24, 2023 02:54 |
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# ¿ May 21, 2024 02:27 |
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Colostomy Bag posted:A couple things I've resigned myself to farm out...and it basically boils down to shop space: These are the two things I really wish I could do at home easily I lack the skill, tools and space
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# ¿ Apr 18, 2024 15:57 |