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The filter/pump combo has been catching on for a while now. I hadn't heard of it that far back, but it's definitely a thing. Are you sure there's no codes, or are you going by the check engine light? There are codes that won't trigger a light. Edit: Yeah I don't think it's a fuel filter problem. I ran a fuel filter something like 6x it's intended lifespan because I'm an idiot, and it acted like a car that's running out of gas. Pushing the pedal wouldn't have ANY effect, it would just idle until it was starved enough to die. After a few minutes, I guess the crud shifted enough to let fuel flow through again (briefly) and I could start it again. In your case I'm thinking it's more of a sensor issue, maybe the MAF or something. Godholio fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Feb 8, 2015 |
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Feb 8, 2015 02:19
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AquarianFire posted:No check engine light. I do not have the ability to check the codes without going somewhere, and honestly, I'm a little chicken poo poo to drive the car. My boyfriend drove it home for me today. We actually left he grocery store and drove right to Pepboys. They were super BUSY and my boyfriend wasn't too keen on waiting around for a couple of hours just to be seen, so we made an appointment for tomorrow morning. Any parts store like Autozone (unless you're in California) will check the codes for free. It's a 30 second process.
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Feb 8, 2015 03:45
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Powered Descent posted:Is there any good way yet to retrofit the headlights on a ten-year-old car to LEDs? Ideally, I'd be looking for some kind of drop-in unit to replace the bulb. You might be able to find a complete "drop in" housing. But yeah, switching bulb types is almost always a bad idea, because the source of light is almost never in the right place. Think about shining a flashlight in a mirror...if you move that flashlight just a little bit it can have a big effect on where the light shines. Now do that in a mirror with facets designed to aim a coherent beam to specific areas, and it quickly becomes a mess. As mentioned, also not street legal.
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Feb 8, 2015 09:24
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) it occurred to me that my car is the last bastion of the incandescent light bulb in my life. It would be great to switch to bulbs that will last basically forever, and never have to deal with said retaining clip ever again. Google tells me that such LED bulbs do exist, but I don't know whether they're any good or not.
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That seems pretty loving steep. Unless it's some weirdo design (like the current Wrangler) it should be much more than 200 or so. I paid $250 for a '66 Corvette windshield with OE-style tint, including replacing 13 clips around it and the labor to deal with all the chrome trim pieces around it. Shop around. You can probably do better. What I would suggest is to actually call your insurance agent's office and ask if they have a recommendation. You can bet they hear the good/bad stories from people. Edit: Also your insurance might cover it. If you have glass coverage it shouldn't count as a claim.
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Feb 10, 2015 18:44
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Parts Kit posted:Thanks. So in that case I'll need a grease gun and grease of some sort. What should I be looking at that would be appropriate for this? They're cheap at any parts store, probably even Harbor Freight.
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Feb 11, 2015 04:05
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A plug is a much better solution than slime.
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Feb 14, 2015 19:00
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Yes you should do it. You should also check them every once in a while, even if you have TPMS.
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Feb 16, 2015 17:59
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melon cat posted:Just following up on my smashed side-mirror. I'd pull that plastic off. Worst case is you break it and have to find one in a junkyard for $5. Best case is that it's held on by those little trim clips that run 3 for a buck and the crackling you hear is the sound they make as they come free. I would guess the wires indicate a heated mirror...does your car have heated mirrors? Seems like there would be a switch or something for that.
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Feb 17, 2015 03:32
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Uthor posted:The folks' Subaru's heated side mirrors and wipers activate with the rear defroster. No separate button. I can see how one wouldn't know for sure. Fair enough, I've never had heated mirrors. Hell, neither of my vehicles even has power windows.
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Feb 17, 2015 05:16
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amenenema posted:Many years ago my Dad bought a 1956 Thunderbird in need of a complete restoration. Now that he's retired, he's got the time to really get cracking. Some stuff has been done already - motor's built, chassis is stripped and painted, and 99% of the parts he needs are ready to go. Right now he's ready to start on getting to the "rolling chassis" point. What he's looking for is a guide on where everything bolts onto the naked frame - basically just a diagram of what holes mount what items, e.g. suspension, engine, exhaust, fuel/brake lines, electrical etc. He's very mechanically savvy (frame-off restored a 1940 Packard when he was younger), and has a lot of individual resources to draw on, so he just needs a basic guide. I assume Ford has something similar, but GM actually published the factory Assembly Instruction Manual for old Corvettes. It's been a loving AMAZING resource for my '66. Torque specs, wiring diagrams, part numbers of EVERYTHING down to washers and adhesives, chassis leak tests, and so on. Chassis Service Manual, too...this is more of a repair manual with instructions on disassembly and tests. Godholio fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Feb 19, 2015 |
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Feb 19, 2015 03:56
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Almost certainly a V8, I can't imagine they stuck a 6 in there during the 80s. Count how many spark plug wires it has. Edit: Woah, a V6 was available. That must've been a loving dog. Still probably a V8. Godholio fucked around with this message at 05:20 on Feb 20, 2015 |
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Feb 20, 2015 05:18
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Is the 4.6 also related, or is that the odd man out?
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Feb 20, 2015 07:15
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People out here (Utah) swear by Goodyear Duratracs as a great mix of on road, rain & snow, and medium trail performance.
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Feb 20, 2015 23:29
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Less if you're towing often?  Edit: Less miles, I get it. Good lord I need coffee.
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Mar 1, 2015 20:17
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Neptr posted:Not all aftermarket filters are better than OEM, but there are some brands that are better for cheaper. Purolator is good and readily available. Oil filters are one of those things that are made by a handful of companies, then rebranded by everyone else. Wix is an OE supplier for a couple of manufacturers, for example. Walmart's Supertech brand was a Bosch.
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Mar 1, 2015 23:46
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Buy a new car. Seriously, there is residue on every surface of every component in that cabin. In the fabrics, behind the dash, on every wire, cable, and screw head.
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Mar 7, 2015 04:40
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1500quidporsche posted:I'm pretty sure its the floor mat at this point and I've got no clue how this would happen anyways but I thought I'd ask. The throttle can get stuck, but the engine isn't going to pull it open on its own. I had the throttle linkage in my Corvette bind up against the oil line running to the guage. The pedal stayed where I put it and wouldn't return. I could get my toe under it to bring it back, then pulled over and figured out the problem.
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Mar 11, 2015 05:48
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Hot glue is probably not the best idea in a car unless you live in the very distant north.
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Mar 16, 2015 03:03
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GobiasIndustries posted:Thanks! We've got plenty of them here (Denver) so I'll check them out over the weekend. They're also one of the few email lists that's worth being on. They regularly send out "buy anything, get this flashlight/magnetic screw tray/telescoping tool/whatever" free coupons, or one for 20% off.
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Mar 20, 2015 04:05
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Not all rentals are basic. I rented a brand new Mustang GT from Hertz because I wanted to try out the (new at the time) 5.0.
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Mar 22, 2015 17:58
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You know, instead of just throwing out ideas on rental options, here's my advice: Figure out what rental agencies are/near the airport (I assume McCarran). Check out their websites, you can (and absolutely should) reserve ahead of time rather than showing up and picking at that time. You'll be able to see what they have...if they're assholes and only have the "classes" of vehicle, call them up and see what's there. It's Vegas...you can get anything from a Fiesta to an F-250 to a Ferrari. If it's me, I'm gonna rent something completely different from my daily options. That's why when I actually took a trip 5 years ago (jfc) I went with a 5.0 Mustang. My daily driver at the time was an 8 year old CHV Focus, and my when-its-not-leaking-fuel driver was a 66 Corvette. The Mustang was totally different and only a few dollars more (like 25?). A truck/SUV might work for you, or some American muscle/sports car. But I'd avoid the V6s in that class, you won't be impressed; however, you can absolutely find the V8s even they will almost certainly be automatics. Godholio fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Mar 22, 2015 |
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Mar 22, 2015 21:10
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surf rock posted:I mean, I had it charging in the driveway for 30 minutes with my buddy's car and the cables, then I spent more than an hour driving around before going to the store, and their test indicated that the battery was about as fully-charged as a 3 year old battery was going to get. I don't know much about cars or car batteries, but was there something about the battery that they were supposed to be testing other than its charge? Testing it's performance under load, basically, but the parts stores do that. If they said it's good, it's probably good.
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Mar 29, 2015 21:03
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Also jacking points should be in the owners manual. If you don't have one, it's probably available in pdf online somewhere for free.
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Mar 31, 2015 23:21
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:Those definitely look like chips to me - antifreeze or really most car fluids won't do that to paint, except for battery acid. Brake fluid or strong solvents will eat/dull the clearcoat but not take out chunks. Looks more like someone being careless with an air hose connection or other tool. Brake fluid will eat through to the metal in seconds. But it won't have sharp edges like that...agreeing that it looks like impact damage. If the guys at the shop caused it, it was by being careless with screwdrivers or open-ended wrenches. Not antifreeze.
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Apr 1, 2015 04:02
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I thought you meant the couch stolen from the Vanderbilt estate, then I noticed the window.  Edit: Buy that loving car. 124k is awesome for that thing.
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Apr 9, 2015 01:41
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I'd probably yank it with some channel locks (not in the line of fire, although I don't see it going badly).
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Apr 10, 2015 05:22
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spog posted:Has anyone here had a car with an accurate fuel gauge? Based on the time I ran out of gas less than a block from the station, my 2002 Focus had a dead-on gauge.
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Apr 11, 2015 03:33
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I would just keep an eye on it for a while. If it continues, I'd do an oil change and see if the oil looks off (even if that's where the coolant is going I'm not sure there's enough to see it yet). Maybe pick up some white butcher paper to lay under the car (use bricks or something to hold it in place) to see if there's a slow drip you're just not seeing. It should stain white paper even if it dries before you check.
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Apr 11, 2015 19:26
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Geoj posted:The only safe/responsible way to add HID to a car that didn't come stock with it is either add OEM HID housings, or if they were not offered on your vehicle crack your stock housings open and retrofit a set of HID projectors into them. I don't care how many times you've heard it, just because your headlights have projector housings doesn't mean it's safe to install a kit of re-keyed HID bulbs into them. This, this, this. The expensive halogens run hotter so they don't last as long. During their lives they're usually brighter though. Avoid the ones that have blue-tinted glass though...why would you want tinted light bulbs? Oh yeah, to make it look whiter even though all it's doing is fooling your brain and actually producing less light (because they're loving TINTED). Sylvania recently lost a class action lawsuit over their bullshit bulbs.
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Apr 12, 2015 08:19
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Dane posted:I'm pretty sure you've got it. I did a little more research after reading your post and found this - http://automotivethinker.com/transmission/straight-cut-gears-vs-helical/ - and coupled with what else I've found, that's the answer that makes the most sense. Was it being translated from Russian by chance? 
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Apr 21, 2015 04:57
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I wouldn't bother unless you have reason to believe there's a bunch of gunk.
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Apr 24, 2015 22:46
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lol internet. posted:It just sat through the winter without being turned on much. Found your problem. It might be salvageable. If sitting for long periods of time is something you're expecting, buy a battery tender. It's a trickle charger and will keep a battery topped off if you're not going to be driving it. If it saves you from buying ONE battery it'll have paid for itself 2-3x over.
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Apr 26, 2015 02:49
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Spopling posted:I have a Nissan Altima 2003, It depends what you mean...if you mean will it function as a stereo, yes. If you mean "will it fit"...maybe. IIRC you've got a funky shaped factory stereo, but there's probably an adapter that'll make it fit. I don't know if you have steering wheel controls, which will probably require an adapter.
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Apr 26, 2015 22:20
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Geoj posted:There is no rebuilding the master cylinder on a Focus - they're made from plastic and every one of them is a ticking timebomb from day one. A very common problem on the MkI Focus with a manual transmission is "fluid leaking down my clutch pedal." This is true, but it's also fairly easy to replace. It's in an awkward spot, but not TOO bad. some texas redneck posted:IIRC on the Fords you had to turn it to a certain position (I think that position between lock and run, where the column is unlocked but nothing is on), shove a pick into a hole in the column, and the lock just popped out. 66 Corvette (dash ignition) is exactly the same.
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Apr 29, 2015 15:33
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Leperflesh posted:Parts bin engineering, gotcha. To a degree, but when there are pretty few changes to a design over half a century, you might as well produce one part that fits almost all.
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Apr 29, 2015 18:56
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The distributor is probably off by one tooth. Fix that, run a can of seafoam through, and see what's what. Can you smell oil or does the smoke have a tinge of blue to it? If the timing is off, you might not be getting a complete burn. Sending a bunch of unburned gasoline out the exhaust is a quick way to fail. So it could be that simple a fix.* *It's never the simple fix.
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Apr 30, 2015 00:28
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^That was the result when Mythbusters tested it. Safety Dance posted:Modern oils in modern engines are capable of lasting into the 12K-15K mile range. You can go with your gut (because you aren't hurting anything), or you can get used oil analysis from Blackstone Labs and see what they say. My '12 Wrangler's manual (and alert) say 8,000 miles. I run conventional valvoline and sent a sample to Blackstone at 8,000. They said I could take it to 10 without any problems...and I think 10 is the recommendation for newer Wranglers, same engine (different filter, though).
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May 1, 2015 02:14
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Friend's wife can't go with him to see it tomorrow afternoon at the 3d IMAX. 
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May 1, 2015 02:43
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Go to their website and order a kit now. They'll send it to you for free, you pay the $25 when you send the sample.
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May 1, 2015 07:13
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I doubt his engine meets that description. For people who DO need old-school levels of zinc (ie, flat-tappet muscle cars) just buy diesel oil. Mobil Delvac or Shell Rotella are good choices.
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May 2, 2015 05:11
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