|
Rock in the tread? I had a loving paperclip-like wire get stuck in my tire once, and it curved enough that it would actually lightly scratch the lip of the fender every revolution. The sound drove me nuts to the point that I pulled over and found it.
|
#
¿
May 2, 2015 05:28
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 22, 2024 01:37 |
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:OR if you just want it to look pretty decent you can take it to Maaco or Earl Scheib and have it painted for under a grand. $3-4k is if you want it to look REALLY REALLY Nice. gently caress these places and everyone who keeps them in business. You get what you pay for, if you're lucky. If you're not lucky, you end up with paint on your headlights, undercarriage, mufflers, tires, windows, interior, convertible top, jamming up the door latch mechanism, and wrecking your weatherstripping's ability to actually create a seal.
|
|
#
¿
May 3, 2015 19:01
|
|
|
Geoj posted:Who paints a car without masking or removing those items? Every time I've had my father in law paint something for me I spent waaaay more time prepping and masking/removing poo poo than it actually took to shoot the paint. It was a previous owner. The only thing on my list that I didn't have was painted headlights, but I've seen that. I can understand a little bit of overspray on some trim or the tire, but there was loving paint on the inside edge of the windshield. That's unacceptable. Likewise, the body-colored weatherstripping I just don't have the time or money to replace. All of it. Doors, hood, everything. Prep work only gets you so far, then it's up to the body shop to actually give a gently caress, and THAT'S where MAACO and the like fall down. They're Jiffy Lube for paint.
|
|
#
¿
May 3, 2015 21:26
|
|
|
Philosopher King posted:My dad has an 1968 chevelle sport coup. Whats the best way to tell what specific version or engine he has? Also this. Keep in mind there's an EXCELLENT chance it's not the original engine.
|
|
#
¿
May 7, 2015 02:05
|
|
|
In Corvettes it was on top of the gas tank, and started in '67. Yeah the main thing about a non-original motor is the value. There are different levels of what people want...an original big motor is $$$$$$$. Since there are few legitimate examples of that (the joke in the Vette world is that there are more original 427ci/435hp cars on the road than ever rolled out of the factory), it's not the end of the world if you have a replacement motor. A replacement could come from just about anywhere...these engines were in loving everything for half a century. A "correct" motor is usually one that has a date stamp (date of manufacture for the engine) in the appropriate range for the vehicle (probably no more than a couple of months before the assembly of the car), and designed for the right application (Corvette, passenger, truck, etc). Or an engine might have a "CE" on the stamp pad where the VIN would have originally been. CE is an over-the-counter replacement, many of them were warranty replacements but not all. Or you might have a random engine from whatever was in the junkyard or whatever. The thing to remember is that the market's not amazing. Nobody's getting rich off selling this car unless it's an original LS6 or something equally rare. Chances are, it was purchased to be the family car, not a quarter mile legend. Expect a low-hp 327 or 350, whatever was used that year, mated to a powerglide, with a gear ratio somewhere around 2.73 or 3.36. Godholio fucked around with this message at 06:45 on May 7, 2015 |
|
#
¿
May 7, 2015 06:36
|
|
|
How could there possibly be anything easier than looking? Find it, you don't want this to get worse. Gas will wreck a lot of things, the fumes will wreck you, and let's not talk about what fire does outside the engine.
|
|
#
¿
May 9, 2015 23:52
|
|
|
Neptr posted:I have a grinding noise in my front passenger side wheel when I take right turns, it started after my first autocross a few weeks ago. Thought it was the dust shield rubbing on the rotor - pulled it back and it got better and then went back to how it was. So yesterday I took the brakes apart and the rotor was actually running against the caliper bracket. The mechanic who installed the bearing at the end of February must have put the hub in crooked. Is this something he should fix free of charge? I haven't been impressed with his work and if I have to pay I would rather go somewhere else. If you've been able to take it apart, you can just fix it yourself. What's the problem, the rotor is damaged? A new one is probably like $30.
|
|
#
¿
May 10, 2015 17:08
|
|
|
Ah, so it's a blue car.
|
|
#
¿
May 10, 2015 17:13
|
|
|
DesperateDan posted:Yep, always called em dustcaps before, though valve stem covers is a bit more descriptive. I think a 4 pack is about a dollar.
|
|
#
¿
May 10, 2015 21:39
|
|
|
It's a Chevy small block. Usually people talk about the SBC referring to the Gen 1 (your 327s and 350s, etc), while the LS1 is the Gen 3 (started in 1997).
|
|
#
¿
May 11, 2015 00:59
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:The stuff you mentioned won't hurt a bit, but IIRC most of the 70s engines were really choked up by the heads and cam. This. Get some decent heads, an aluminum intake manifold, decent cam, and headers and depending on the specific parts you buy, you might actually double the output.
|
|
#
¿
May 15, 2015 03:39
|
|
|
Elendil004 posted:Per thread recommendations on getting my 2015 Fit to stop trying to connect to my smartphone (which causes lag when playing music and renders the screen inoperable), I tired a usb condom. That works for about 5 minutes then I get an error on the car screen "there is a problem with the usb connected device see owners manual"which doesn't help. Got a multimeter?
|
|
#
¿
May 16, 2015 21:59
|
|
|
Elendil004 posted:I do, but I'm not sure what I'd be looking for. An "amp" setting. Cheaper meters don't always have them, I guess.
|
|
#
¿
May 17, 2015 17:34
|
|
|
Holy poo poo, every time I've looked at it, it was after the splat. I didn't even realize it was animated. That is awesome.
|
|
#
¿
May 17, 2015 20:57
|
|
|
Newer cars also have much smaller steering wheels, so you have a lot less leverage than on an old 16" steering wheel.
|
|
#
¿
May 18, 2015 06:08
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:Sylvania for me. I'm holding off on their stuff for a while, they just got rocked by a class action lawsuit over their false claims for headlights. Turns out that tinting your bulbs blue makes the light shine whiter, which makes you think it's brighter. But in reality, you have tinted bulbs so of course they're dimmer.
|
|
#
¿
May 19, 2015 03:55
|
|
|
It can be sketchy or it can be legit. Tough to tell because the reasons are pretty much the same: the guy doesn't want to get busted for something. Whether that's pissing off the wife or getting impounded because his insurance expired 3 years ago, who knows? If it was a tap and the damage is minor enough that I can get it fixed for less than he's offering or I can ignore it, I'd take the cash. If not, or if there's ANY chance of the slightest injury, I'd play it safe and go through insurance.
|
|
#
¿
May 23, 2015 17:19
|
|
|
C-Euro posted:I think the "don't want to get caught" part is that he told me he's still working on getting his license and only has a permit or something right now, I was talking to my insurance and it sounds like they found the insurance plan for his car with the info I gave them. That's a good point about the cost of a rental though, how long do paint touch-ups usually take? They are complete and utter poo poo. They're the cheapest place around, with good reason. Just hand a blind man a can of spray paint instead.
|
|
#
¿
May 23, 2015 22:54
|
|
|
SperginMcBadposter posted:Anyone know where the engine block coolant plug is on Ford's 2.0L zetec engines? The dedicated zx2 forums are garbage. Not a clue, but the focaljet forums used to be a really good source of tech info. The Zetec was the engine of choice for the US-market Focus for several years. I'm sure something'll come up in a search.
|
|
#
¿
May 26, 2015 01:46
|
|
|
cephalopods posted:Just an idle question: are Aleros so numerous on the roads just because they sold a fuckload of them, or are they far more durable than I'd expect of a GM from that era? Apparently they're all being drawn to you...I haven't seen one in years. They also didn't sell well, they were literally Oldsmobile's last gasp.
|
|
#
¿
May 28, 2015 01:48
|
|
|
It could be normal. Some engines are noisier on startup than others, but I don't know about that engine. If you're looking at the brakes as a regular maintenance thing, there's no reason to replace calipers. You're replacing the pads (for disc brakes) and shoes (basically pads for drum brakes) and maybe the rotors. In most modern vehicles this can be done for about $75 with basic tools in an hour or two. A shop will probably charge $300-400. There are probably videos on youtube showing how to do it. I did the brakes on my mom's 07 or 08 4Runner and it was the easiest brake job I've ever done. Toyota seems to have their heads on straight about this.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 6, 2015 18:06
|
|
|
fromoutofnowhere posted:Cool, thanks! I'll look into getting the tools myself, and talking to a friend to show me around in how to replace them. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jfdKlFzgi8Q Bunch of videos available.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 6, 2015 18:54
|
|
|
Did they move away from the CVT a few years later? Because I distinctly recall that when the SHO was rereleased (AWD), it was able to post Camaro SS numbers at the track after just a loving tune. Edit: The more I think about it, the entire drivetrain was probably different by that time.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 7, 2015 23:13
|
|
|
Factories painted engine assemblies, not piece-by-piece. Off the top of my head I don't know if I've seen any factory painted aluminum engines, though. They seem to be left unpainted.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 8, 2015 04:59
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:As a general rule with painting it is always better to paint things when they're apart. In the case of a motor you have to be careful with masking obviously with mating surfaces and threads. Which is exactly why they were assembled first. And yeah, there's specific engine paint products out there. There's usually one or two manufacturers who specialize in certain colors. Quanta makes a very good Chevy orange, for example.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 8, 2015 06:49
|
|
|
I'd start with a google search for the boat model and "electrical problem" or a couple of more specific keywords. This is usually what I do with cars, and it typically brings up good forums for future reference. Hell, if the boat world is like the car world, that model probably has a dedicated community.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 14, 2015 05:02
|
|
|
If it were a newer Jeep, I'd vote "blend doors" and wish you godspeed and a long weekend so you can rip half your dash out.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 17, 2015 03:06
|
|
|
FlyingCowOfDoom posted:gently caress thats the name of the place, I was trying to remember all the old commercials I had seen but couldnt so was just contacting local shops, thank you!! Never had to get paint work done before so when he showed me that paper with 3k on it my jaw loving dropped. The paint you're going to get is going to be as high quality as Rustoleum and the prep they do to avoid overspraying your loving headlights is going to be...questionable. You think 3k is bad? When I get my car painted it's probably going to start around 15k because they're going to strip it down instead of just painting over all the poo poo on there now. You're not just paying for materials, you're paying for LABOR. But yeah, for the ultimate appliance machine, who cares. Just make sure you look it over before leaving and make sure they didn't actually spray your headlights. Or, like in the case of my aforementioned car, the tires, chrome A-pillar, inside of the windshield, mufflers, convertible top, taillights... (thanks, previous owner)
|
|
#
¿
Jun 19, 2015 04:20
|
|
|
Elmnt80 posted:What is the best way to tell if an idler pulley is bad and causing a squeaking/squealing noise? Open the hood and see if that's where the noise is coming from? Edit: It may also be hotter than the other pulleys, but you probably don't want to test that with the engine running.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 23, 2015 02:29
|
|
|
Toshimo posted:Other than eBay, is there a good place to look for very specific accessories? I'm trying to find, of all things, a set of factory floor mats for a 2001 Jeep Wrangler. I'm just guessing that nobody except the dealer is going to have any 15-year old floor mats. Quadratec sometimes has Mopar, but if I had to guess, TJ factory floor mats probably aren't in production anymore. Most people buying mats for a Jeep are going to want the good ones from Weathertech or Quadratec, etc.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 28, 2015 18:42
|
|
|
^That's a good idea. You might be able to find some other TJ (up through 06) mats that could have the logo put on. This is a little different than just finding normal OE mats, I no longer think you're crazy.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 28, 2015 20:54
|
|
|
1500quidporsche posted:What's the best DOT 4 brake fluid avaliable in north america? Depends, what's on sale?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 3, 2015 05:19
|
|
|
The SVT suspension is definitely worth it. I installed it on my 02 SE and it was a significant improvement over the OE stuff at around 80k miles.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 4, 2015 23:27
|
|
|
The Swinemaster posted:Glad to know that, cheers. I came from a 92 Olds, so I somehow had it in my head that an 02 is a "new" car. Yeah, it's kind of a wake up call when you realize how long ago that thing was actually built. too loving long ago
|
|
#
¿
Jul 5, 2015 06:18
|
|
|
2012 Jeep Wrangler Sport, 3.6L/auto. Cruise control hasn't been working for a while. I figured it was the steering wheel buttons because they're kind of lovely. So's the clockspring, so there's another possible culprit. Whatever, I didn't feel like sorting it out. Until I started randomly started getting a warning chime and the ABS and traction control lights would flicker...it would be over in a fraction of a second. The first couple of times it was over before my eyes even got to the gauges. Sometimes it's a little longer, so I've gotten a look at the dash when it happens. Still, no more than about a second, tops. When I say random, I mean it's happened when I'm stopped at a light, on the brakes to slow down, cruising at highway speeds. I can find no pattern. And it's very intermittent. Sometimes twice a day, but I've also gone 4-5 days without it happening at all. I've got some DTCs from Torque Pro: P0593 Speed Control Switch 2 Circuit High P0581 Speed Control Switch 1 Circuit High P0591 Speed Control Switch 2 Performance P0579 Speed Control Switch 1 Performance P3005 ??? The first four seem pretty straightforward, though I haven't dug into what that actually means. I'm guessing the clockspring or controls, but my main question is the last one. None of the lists I've checked has that code. I get search results for EVs and Pruises, but nothing else. I did check the rear wheel speed sensors, they appear to be ok and the wiring looks intact. The flickering made me think it might be a loose wire. I can remove the rears without even jacking the thing up, so I figured I'd take a look even though I don't think that's the problem. The front sensors are more of a hassle to get to. Edit: Ok, P3005: Engine coolant heater relay 2, high output. So uh...what is that? Godholio fucked around with this message at 02:41 on Jul 6, 2015 |
|
#
¿
Jul 6, 2015 01:41
|
|
|
SilentW posted:~2000 Mitsubishi Mirage DE, 100K + on it. Last thing to be replaced was brakes, ~1 year ago. If you can't bash it out, find one in a junkyard and remove the hood. There's nothing to it, just a handful of bolts. You'll want another person to help though, it's heavy and you're removing the bolts that are keeping it from falling on you. It's a $1500 car, who cars if the paint doesn't match.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 8, 2015 02:19
|
|
|
SD-455 posted:1966 Mustang Whatever the best answer ends up being, don't just replace it. Take it or send it to a shop that can replate it (do some research, but one place with a solid rep is Virginia Vettes). You KNOW your chrome pieces fit. Repros or old stock might not fit as well. These shops can probably take the paint off, too, but there's probably a better answer.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 8, 2015 03:12
|
|
|
Cage posted:Oh deng. Oops. Not easy in a 3.8? Plugs are a loving BITCH in a 3.8 Taurus, I know that.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 10, 2015 04:40
|
|
|
You're right, that diagram clearly shows separate high/low bulbs. Autozone's website also suggests separate bulbs.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 13, 2015 02:40
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 22, 2024 01:37 |
|
|
Are you sure the wheel speed sensor is on the diff? I've only seen them on the hub before (on a Jeep and 2 Ford cars).
|
|
#
¿
Jul 13, 2015 05:08
|
|