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My 1988 Ford F150 didn't have rear speakers, so I ran wires back behind the bench seat anyway and put in some 6x9" truck boxes. That would normally be OK, but they like to scoot forward against the back of the bench seat and muffle out their sound. Has anyone dealt with this before? What are my options? Strap the boxes down somehow? I did see this replacement headliner on JC Whitney that had quad 4" speakers. That's nice, but smaller than the door speakers. That got me thinking. How hard would it be to get some custom trim pieces made for the door B pillars and hide some speakers back there? There is quite a bit of room in the corners behind the trim.
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Apr 2, 2015 22:26
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Tommychu posted:As a former Ford Bricknose owner (and I'm sill a major fan of them), I'll say that any solution to a problem like this that requires you to spend more than $10 is the wrong one. I'm thinking find a way to strap them down or use velcro. Yeah I think you got the right idea. So does anyone have any ideas to strap down 2 speaker boxes in a carpeted corner behind a bench seat? Do I just need to get some corner brackets and screw them down? Speaking of screws, some of the holes for my trim panel screws are stripped out. If these were holes in wood, I'd just stick in a couple toothpicks. What fixes are there for stripped out holes in sheet metal, short of getting bigger screws? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 00:24 on Apr 4, 2015 |
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Apr 4, 2015 00:21
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So the holes for a couple of the trim screws in my truck are stripped. What's the best way to repair a screw hole in sheet metal that's too large? Again this is a trim screw, otherwise I'd just step up a screw size.
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Apr 17, 2015 22:47
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The secondary dash power socket in my 2003 F250 doesn't work with any adapter I plug into it. Here's the weird thing though: I tested it with my multimeter and it has proper voltage. Has anyone come across this before?
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Apr 20, 2015 19:09
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Elmnt80 posted:I know having coolant line handle fuel is generally a bad thing, but what about the other way around. Can I have coolant running through a fuel line without issue? Rubber is rubber. The issue is whether if it has the woven reinforcement threads in it to handle the pressure. Fuel injection grade hose can take the high pressures of fuel injection pumps and everything under that. In fact I did that for this odd 3/8" branch off a tee that went into the throttle body on my '88 F150. The 90 degree bend in the factory molded hose wasn't too sharp and I had plenty of room to get away with straight hose. My shop didn't have 3/8" heater hose, so I got 3/8" fuel hose.
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May 31, 2015 03:50
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OneThousandMonkeys posted:My 2013 Impala doesn't have a bracket for the front license plate. This is the first time I've dealt with this problem. What's the best way to handle this without drilling anything? The absolute easiest way would be if you don't live in a 2-plate state and just left it off. Without drilling though, you would be left to duck tape, 2-sided tape, epoxy, daisy chaining cable ties or sticking it inside the windshield corner.
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May 31, 2015 20:37
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OneThousandMonkeys posted:I'm in Washington, so no dice. In that case, there are a couple products out there for attaching a front license plate holder without drilling into the bumper. Most depend on attaching either though a hole in the bumper for a tow hook or on a big L bracket that mounts under the bumper somewhere. Edit: or sometimes a bracket that fits through the gap between the grill and bumper, if those are 2 different panels on your car. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 21:00 on May 31, 2015 |
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May 31, 2015 20:55
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Geoj posted:Stupid electrical question - You got the idea. If you got 2 color bulbs, then you need sockets with 2 connectors. Well, 3 connectors since they share a ground. For the record, if you have any more circuitry questions, we do have an electronics megathread over in DIY. They've helped me before with wiring up relays for an actively powered fuel tank selector valve for my truck.
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Jun 4, 2015 17:25
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Geoj posted:Does anyone know where I could obtain a M12 x 1 bolt? I bought a clearance brake master cylinder for my Focus and it didn't include a bench bleeding kit and the one I bought from O'Reilly only had one each of the metric bleeder nipples, so I have to block off the remaining ports while I bleed one of them (non-ABS master cylinder, 4 output ports.) I used to work at a fastener company in college. M12x1 is definitely a weird size. The $10 might be your cheapest option. The only other solution I can think of would be to get a M12x1 adapter to some smaller size with a plug for that smaller size. I know O'Reillys does have a whole rack of brake fittings with each ones in tiny boxes in the back. They've let me go in the back there as a customer to find what I've needed before.
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Jun 19, 2015 22:35
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HotCanadianChick posted:It's most likely a watch battery of some kind, like a CR2032 or 2045, most drug stores have them. Once you get the battery out it should have the type of battery marked on one side. I learned this a couple weeks ago. As far as watch batteries go, be sure to Google around with the battery size number. There are several different standards. For example, size LR44 = L1154 = AG13 = 157.
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Jul 13, 2015 23:55
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kastein posted:The best thing about standards is that there are so many to choose from! Alright then, how about this? Buy your watch batteries off Amazon. You can get a card of 10 of a name brand for  plus shipping. You can do all your remotes at once.
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Jul 14, 2015 02:30
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IOwnCalculus posted:If you have an aftermarket headunit, you can even skip the add-a-fuse and use something like the amplifier turn-on output from it to switch the relay on. You mean the power antenna output? That's pretty slick. I've never thought about that before.
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Jul 15, 2015 02:28
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1. Use a continuity test on a multimeter for the bulb. If the test shows a complete circuit, then you know that the filament is still good. If the bulb is still good but it still won't come on, then switch the multimeter over to DC volts and check out the socket. See if you get around 12 volts coming out of the socket. You can get headlight bulbs anywhere. 2. If the back bulb works, it should pass. You could just get some red transparent tape made for temporary signal repairs from any auto parts store to pass inspection, then order a replacement lens at your leisure. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Jul 17, 2015 |
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Jul 17, 2015 20:34
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Stupid double post
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Jul 17, 2015 20:35
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The CEL on my 1988 Ford F150 has been blinking every now and then for the past 2 weeks. My code scanner pulled code 67, which appears to be a trouble code for an automatic transmission? The problem is that my truck is a manual... Can anybody give me a hint as to what's going on? I will admit that my truck has been shifting rough lately.
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Aug 23, 2015 19:04
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kid sinister posted:The CEL on my 1988 Ford F150 has been blinking every now and then for the past 2 weeks. My code scanner pulled code 67, which appears to be a trouble code for an automatic transmission? The problem is that my truck is a manual... Can anybody give me a hint as to what's going on? I will admit that my truck has been shifting rough lately. Anybody? Should I just clear it and see if it comes back?
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Aug 24, 2015 23:53
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The blower motor in my 1988 Ford F150 is pretty wimpy. I've replaced the original with a new one which was just as underwhelming. Is there anything I can do to get "High" to blow faster? Factory air with R134 conversion if it matters.
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Sep 12, 2015 19:53
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kid sinister posted:The blower motor in my 1988 Ford F150 is pretty wimpy. I've replaced the original with a new one which was just as underwhelming. Is there anything I can do to get "High" to blow faster? Anyone? Am I stuck with the wimpy fan?
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Sep 13, 2015 23:28
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Raluek posted:I don't know anything about those particular trucks, but generally "high" means feeding the motor full 12V without any attenuation or anything. So, short of replacing the blower with something else (and you'd have to do some homework on what would fit that isn't stock replacement), you'd be looking at physical problems. A cabin air filter on a 80s Ford? I don't think so. Anyway, the heater box is accessible from the engine compartment. I didn't see any clogs inside the big fan hole in the box when I swapped it. I will look into that relay idea.
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Sep 14, 2015 19:28
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StormDrain posted:All battery connections clean and tight? Seconding loose battery cables. Does the radio forget its presets and the time?
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Sep 15, 2015 21:35
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So we just bought a 2015 Nissan Versa and it's time for its first oil change. Should I install a Fumoto valve in place of the original drain plug? Has anyone else used them? They seem a little gimmicky to me, but I do like a clean garage...
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Sep 23, 2015 21:35
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Ozmiander posted:You can totally get pulled over for doing the limit in poo poo weather, bro. ...if you can find an officer that wants to get out of their cruiser in said weather to write you a ticket.
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Oct 13, 2015 06:43
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Maybe you got something jammed in your brake lines just right to act like a check valve? When was the last time you got a brake fluid flush?
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Oct 17, 2015 21:26
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SLAMMYsosa posted:I've never been a truck guy, but due to my job I'm in the market for a cheap truck, so I've been looking at old F150s, F250s and Rangers on Craigslist, because everything else is way too rich for my blood and I've never had a car payment and really don't want to start now I drive a 1988 F150, the second year for EFI. From what I've heard, most of the problems were with the '87s that were ironed out in later models. Since I bought it, I've had to replace just about every sensor and half of the connectors, which I think is pretty reasonable for a 27 year old vehicle. After all that work, it's pretty drat solid. I would be willing to bet that all the complaints from those old farts could be solved by an hour, a can of Deoxit and another of dielectric grease to clean out all those connections. Even though it's OBD1, the computer has still been useful diagnosing problems. I got the 302, but I can't comment on pulling since I don't use mine for that. I can say that the previous owners used it as a farm truck, so it was pulling farm equipment all over fields. Not bad considering it isn't a 4x4. A plus over the Ranger would be that the F series was the best selling vehicle for ages, so you shouldn't have any problems finding spare parts from salvage yards. Also, if you're looking up first generation EFI Ford trucks, keep in mind that those are old enough to need a R134 conversion, if not melting to death is your thing. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 02:54 on Oct 20, 2015 |
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Oct 20, 2015 02:46
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Abu Dave posted:I'm going to ask 2 really dumb questions so i'll apologize ahead of time. 1. If you need them or not entirely depends on how much snow you get wherever you are and if you drive like a bat out of hell or not. If you do need them however, do not just throw them in. You want the weight directly over the axle, so lay them in between the wheel wells in the bed. 2. Just leave it in there? You said you wanted more weight in there. I suppose if you don't have a bed liner, then you might want to park it facing uphill so that when snow melts, it doesn't pool in the bed.
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Oct 28, 2015 02:03
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Just for the record, is the tank empty?
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Jan 5, 2016 03:38
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I've got a 2015 Nissan Versa with weird electrical problems. The brake lights work fine, but the right tail light won't come on. The bulb is fine, I tested that with my multimeter and it works just fine in the left tail light. I tested the socket with my multimeter too, and the socket doesn't even get any power for the tail light. Also in this same car, the AC likes to come on whenever the defrost does, or at least the little light on the AC button does. What gives? I should mention that this car was a salvage. It got totaled out with only 2400 miles on the odometer when it was hit in the rear end end on the right side, the same side as the problem tail light. Whoever repaired the body work did a hell of a job. Still, "salvage" means no manufacturer warranty. Otherwise, I'd just drop this thing off at the dealership and tell them to deal with it. Anybody got any ideas for these electrical problems? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Jan 14, 2016 |
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Jan 14, 2016 23:49
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totalnewbie posted:Transmissions are boxes made of magic. Black magic.
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Apr 6, 2016 16:10
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scuz posted:1996 Ford Econoline 7.5L. Belt is squeaking in rhythm and it doesn't ever go away unless you spray conditioner on it. Belt appears to be in good shape, should I check the tensioner? How do I know whether it's beyond the point of doing its job? Take the belt off and give it a close look like Krakkles said. You could also check out the pulleys while you got the belt off. Do any of them have any wobble to them?
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Apr 6, 2016 19:37
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This might be a better place to ask than the Tool thread in DIY. It's time to buy myself a birthday gift and I'd like an air compressor. I'd use it mainly for tires, an impact wrench for lugnuts and also for filling tires, maybe someday for a nailgun. Still, it would be used foremost for automotive work. What kind of capacity would I need? I'd need something that could do all 8 lugs on an F250 tire and fill it to 80 PSI.
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Apr 24, 2016 22:31
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So my '88 Ford F150 has a problem with premature ejaculation. Yes, I understand it's a problem that happens more frequently as trucks get older... Seriously though, every now and then when I take off from a dead stop, I see the windshield washer fluid emitters squeeze off maybe like a 3 inch high stream and then stop. Since I first noticed it, I replaced the original seized pump at the reservoir with a new one, but it keeps happening. I'm not sure that it's an electric problem or what. Any ideas?
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Jul 29, 2016 22:58
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The clutch pedal is on the floor and my transmission is stuck in a forward gear on my 1988 Ford F150. Does that sound like the clutch master cylinder went out?
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Dec 8, 2016 19:22
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IOwnCalculus posted:Very much so. Can you shift it if you shut the engine off and let everything spin down? I just went up the street to pick it up where I parked it last night after it started acting up. Some fucker clipped and broke my side mirror. Didn't even leave a note. To be fair though, that mirror was already cracked. I've been thinking about replacing all 3 mirrors for months now since that one was cracked and the other 2 are losing their mirror coating. Time to buy myself a Christmas present! Anyway, I was able to pick the pedal up off the floor and it stayed in place. I was able to shift it and drive it home, but I noticed that the clutch pedal was slow in returning to the up position. I'm not sure what I should replace though. The master cylinder? Slave? Both? I'm looking online at pictures of them, and I see that some master cylinders have the hose built into the master cylinder if you buy the master and slave as a kit. My stock master cylinder is like that. I guess if I buy them separate, then I need to buy the hose too, right? Also, since these cylinders are hydraulic, do I have to prime them first like a brake master cylinder? Edit: according to my Haynes book, the hose was integrated into the master cylinder on 1987 and prior models, then were separate afterward. I probably got a leftover. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Dec 8, 2016 |
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Dec 8, 2016 20:02
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The clutch pedal in my 1988 Ford F150 is slow to come back up. Two weeks ago, I pressed it down and it stayed on the floor. I had to raise it up with my foot and it stayed. It's a hydraulic clutch, so I topped off the reservoir with the appropriate fluid and it made no difference. How do I figure out which part needs work? Is it the master cylinder, slave cylinder or the transmission itself?
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Dec 26, 2016 18:43
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Christobevii3 posted:Does the clutch engage still at the normal point? For now, yes, but a few weeks ago, the clutch was all the way to the floor and it was stuck in a forward gear. I couldn't shift out of it. Luckily this happened at the top of the block so I parked it and just walked home. Motronic posted:It's most likely one or both of the first two or one of the clutch hydraulic lines. There's only one line between the master and slave cylinders. I'll look in the morning. I wish I had a garage.  Pressure bleeder? You mean like a hand vacuum pump? Is this like bleeding brake lines? I've done that before. And it might be time to take this thing to a transmission shop. I noticed that its seals were dripping under the truck, so the tranny needs work regardless of its cylinders.
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Dec 27, 2016 06:22
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I like turtles posted:I live in Washington, and the 2011 ranger I just got does not have a front license plate bracket. I can jury rig it with steel zip ties like I did the last one, or I can get an OEM one and install it without drilling the bumper? This looks like it should need drilling but... I can't tell for sure. https://www.autopartscheaper.com/2008-2011-Ford-Ranger-Genuine-Front-License-Plate-p/8l5z-17a385-a.htm Does your front bumper have the little bezel you remove for the tow hook? They make several different plate brackets that screw into those. I've also seen one or two brackets that are L-shaped. They mount to the frame under the bumper. Some of those are model specific though.
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Jan 4, 2017 17:31
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So I had to open up my car doors on my 1988 Ford F150, on one side to clamp a stupid loving rivnut that just spun in its hole for the side mirror, on the other side to help convert a 9th generation door into an 8th generation door. If you're wondering the difference, they changed the mounting holes for the side mirrors. Otherwise, they're identical. My questions are about this weird shrink-wrap-looking plastic on the insides of the doors just behind the panels. 1. What is that plastic for? 2. Should I replace it? If so, how and with what?
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May 1, 2017 18:05
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monsterzero posted:1. It's to seal the door against dust/moisture/drafts. Ah, a vapor barrier. I should've figured that you don't want to let the insulation on the inside of the door panel get all moldy.
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May 1, 2017 18:59
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I got a leaky M5R2 manual transmission in my 1988 Ford F150. It's been sitting in my driveway for the past month and I see a dark red drop on the back bottom of it. How big of a pain in the butt is that to fix? How about a leaking power steering system? Basically, my truck leaks everywhere. So far I've fixed the fuel, coolant and oil systems, even the wiper system. I'll probably need to drop the tranny anyway. My clutch pedal is slow to come back up and it might be the concentric slave cylinder. While I'm at it, what's the best way to clean off all the grime from all these different leaks? I've been wiping everything down with those thick blue paper towels.
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May 10, 2017 19:52
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Just to make sure... What's the correct way to install the thermostat on my 1988 Ford F150: spring towards the engine or away from it?
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May 11, 2017 02:46
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