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cursedshitbox posted:Yeuuup! Yup. Is $1700 of front end work expensive? Yes. Is it fair in the modern market? Probably. This is by far the biggest reason I keep wrenching on my own poo poo. Jack B Nimble posted:Water leaked onto the passenger side of my 06 Coupe Mustang GT. I think it's highly likely that the clogged cowl drains are indeed your problem. A heater core leak is unmistakable because it'll be whatever color your antifreeze is, plus much slicker and stickier to the touch than just water. Your air conditioning evaporator can only generate a relatively small amount of moisture via condensation, though if the HVAC box drain is clogged that could also be an issue. At the very least that job in the video is relatively quick to do, changing your cabin air filter is a good idea anyway, and it would rule that out if you open it up and the drains are completely clear. If the cowl drains are clear, or you clean them out and you still get wet this week, then I'd look for other sources. Does it have a sunroof? Those drains can be clogged very easily. Are the door windows frameless? Check and see how they seat against the rubber weatherstrip on the door frame. The windshield is a bit of a last resort because unless someone did a new windshield on it recently and did a very poor job of replacing it, those generally don't just spring leaks.
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Mar 18, 2024 23:34
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 02:02 |
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I'm going to come out as in favor of "grease every contact point that isn't pad-to-rotor" but given the stack of shiny stainless shims that modern pads come with, I should probably relax on this.
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Apr 1, 2024 16:31
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Pollyanna posted:Ehh… To me that all seems "crusty but structurally sound". The only real problem is you're at the point where all of the paint on things like your control arms has already failed, so they're going to continue to rot and may eventually become unusable from rust alone. But, control arms are also wear items that can be replaced easily and you can buy them fully loaded so you're getting fresh bushings and ball joints at the same time. wesleywillis posted:I've heard that too. I would assume that's an option, since functionally it's no different than someone building a Cobra kit car, and it's probably the most legal option as well. However, unlike a Cobra, there are lots of Mustangs and VWs (and every other "can build it from a catalog" car out there - tri-five Chevy, Camaro, C10, etc) in near-unrestorable condition. I've seen people selling a rusty C10 cab with a VIN tag and a title for a bit over scrap value, and the VIN tag and title are the only parts that end up on the resulting truck. This is legally questionable / a ship of Theseus issue; if done poorly, it looks like trying to re-VIN a stolen vehicle. In practice... this poo poo happens all the time and I suspect as long as it's done well, it gets through.
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Apr 13, 2024 19:12
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drhankmccoyphd posted:just for a bit of context I don't really care about the scuff / scratch or the car but right now I'm gunning for a trade in and I'm trying to minimize the deductions with the least amount of effort. Is this a lease return or a car you own and are trading in on another purchase? Because if it's the latter, anything more than a quick wash is money wasted because trade-in offers are always going to be based around wholesale value, not "good vs better".
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Apr 16, 2024 19:23
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$25 is well worth it for that, and also tells me the previous damage was almost entirely paint transfer from whatever you hit / hit you.
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Apr 16, 2024 19:42
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Travic posted:Very much so. It feels like a sticky piston. I'd just heard these symptoms may also indicate deeper, more worrying problems so I'm being thorough. Whatever it is, it's not something you caused and you've got a warranty. Time to head to the dealer.
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Apr 30, 2024 20:42
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George RR Fartin posted:I'm pretty sure this will be fine, but I figured I'd throw it out there in case I'm being legitimately stupid. The ignition switch is wired so it splices into the green power line and when the switch is closed, connects that to ground, shorting ignition and stopping the bike. This works fine in my testing. Yes, this would be a major problem. Grounding to kill the ignition (and thus shut off the engine) is a special case for small engines, because the ignition on those is directly powered by the magneto and only has voltage when the engine is spinning. Dead-shorting the ignition to ground kills the spark and stops the engine, so you don't actually have that dead short for long. In every other case, your idea of "ground a parallel switch" is creating a dead short between your magneto and ground whenever you close the switch, which is going to pop fuses at the least and start fires at the worst. You need to put a switch in series with anything you want to control, not parallel to it. The item (headlight, taillight, etc) is only on when the switch is closed.
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May 8, 2024 06:15
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 02:02 |
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I mean the method you proposed would probably work once, but you wouldn't like why the light stopped working when you closed the switch 
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May 8, 2024 19:57
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