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What kind of vacuum gauge did you get? "Healthy" and "Normal" are not vacuum readings. Also, are you thinking you have a vacuum leak and you're trying to find it with this? Because ... that's not how you do that.
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Feb 12, 2015 10:56
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It's going to get more expensive the longer it's in there. It may dislodge itself (best case), it may stay there and eat up the rotor and pad. If it hasn't done much damage yet, it could still be "turn the rotor and reinstall". How long has it been since it's had a brake job? If you're due anyway, I'd probably drive it and take it in when you can (still ASAP, of course, but a couple light drives won't cause immediate catastrophic failure).
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Feb 18, 2015 17:46
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Did you tell him to look at the brakes, or did you tell him that there's a noise that you want to resolve? Don't create an X-Y problem. Also, it could be a wheel bearing.
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Feb 18, 2015 20:22
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Ozmiander posted:If you can't answer stupid questions without getting mad, then don't. B) There's stupid, and then there's stupid. Sorry you don't like it, but the exchange that just happened is nearly literally the "how do I get out of a well guys" exchange so famous here.
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Feb 20, 2015 17:09
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That may just be a bad sensor - off the top of my head, on various vehicles, that's been caused by a TPS, VSS, or a temp sensor. Do you have a check engine light? Whatever it is probably isn't good for your tranny - I would fix it sooner rather than later.
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Feb 23, 2015 06:54
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Pretty sure you have to replace the timing belt, not (specifically) the serpentine belt. In which case, hahahahaha why did you agree to that
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Feb 25, 2015 02:15
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Pro-tip (for the BMW owner's bf/hubby): Don't drive cars in limp mode. Limp mode basically exists to get you off of a dangerous highway when the car knows it's failing. If you're not in imminent danger, DO NOT KEEP DRIVING. The difference is while it COULD have been a sensor (or a leak, or low fluid, or ...), it may have been repairable before you drove it home. Most often, they're not after being driven in limp mode for an extended period of time. And yes, what Slavvy said about "lifetime" ATF is wholly correct. Lifetime fluid is bullshit, you should absolutely follow a normal maintenance interval for your vehicle.
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Feb 27, 2015 19:41
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I'd say 30k is about right for most cars. If you're really worried, look at using a better type of ATF. (For example, ChryCo recommends ATF+4 in the AW4, which is ... basically utter poo poo. Using Dexron VI has made the tranny work much, much better, and should offer more protection, too.)
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Feb 27, 2015 19:51
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Yeah, that's supposed to be attached to the cap. I'd use pliers/screwdriver to take it out, and get a new one. Not in that order.
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Mar 4, 2015 15:12
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EightBit posted:
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Mar 8, 2015 18:56
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That's shocks, not springs. if you take the shocks out of a leaf/coil sprung vehicle, you can technically drive it (I wouldn't), but it's very ... bouncy.
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Mar 15, 2015 23:38
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I had something like that happen with my mustang. I took it in and the guy had it fixed in an afternoon. I'd say I would plan on an alternate ride to work while it gets fixed, basically.
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Mar 29, 2015 18:39
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Dumb question, that I think I know the answer to: Driving my girlfriend's 1.8T '02 Passat on the freeway, it bongs at me - oil light. gently caress. Pull off the highway, roll into a gas station, hear bad noises (like rod knock). Check the oil. Dry. Add about a quart, whatever was in the trunk - check again: overfull. I was about a quarter mile from my destination and already figured the motor was hosed, so I start it back up. Brief rattle noise, then ... Back to the way it sounded yesterday.  So ... Is there any possibility it's not turbofucked? Should I do an oil change or something else preventatively, or just budget for a new motor and drive it until it needs it?
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Apr 2, 2015 22:24
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InitialDave posted:Be single. Yeaaaah, the only reason I was driving it was to take it to a detailer, because it was grody. I love her, but we handle cars very differently. Ok, that's what our mechanic is saying too, so gently caress it, let's see what happens.
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Apr 2, 2015 22:38
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[2000 mustang GT, manual, (maybe relevant mod: Bilstein shocks)] When I bought the car, I was pretty happy with how it drove. When I bought new rear tires, I foolishly listened to the dummy at Just Tires and paid for an alignment. This resulted in it driving terribly - it would follow road textures, it understeered terribly, etc. I got it REaligned by a friend, and the before/after readings are below. My question is this - it now needs a front right tie rod end, and I expect that this will require a realignment. Should I specify that I want them to set it back to factory settings, or specifically back to the below (after) settings? I know the below before settings aren't what I want, but I don't know enough to know if the below after settings are better than stock. Most of them seem to be in range with stock and I don't see any reason the one that isn't would provide any real benefit. code:(AFTER is what I like right now, BEFORE is what Just Tires did which I did not like.) Ordinarily, I would take it to the friend to be aligned, but I don't want to ask him to replace the TRE and I don't want to drive it unaligned after it is replaced 50+ miles to get to him. Edit: Oh, and worth pointing out: I don't want to burn up tires because of an extremely aggressive alignment, but I do prefer performance to tire longevity. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 09:06 on Jun 8, 2015 |
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Jun 8, 2015 07:21
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Pfox posted:I've got a 2011 Honda CR-Z (still under warranty) with two issues - #2 - long shot, but would you call this a high pitched squeal? If so, it sounds like a misadjusted or stretched accessory belt.
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Jun 8, 2015 22:12
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It's based on various scenarios, essentially. So the car has to operate at or above X temperature for Y minutes at a speed greater than Z, but not Z'. Here's an explanation that isn't at all guaranteed to work on a given car, but probably would: http://repairpal.com/how-to-perform-a-basic-drive-cycle
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Jun 10, 2015 00:34
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Professor Bling posted:The girlfriend's dad has a first-gen CR-V, and his driver's door is stuck in the closed position. From what I can see it's some sort of an issue with the actuator itself; the mechanism for the door handle isn't actually moving anything in the actuator, and I'm thinking its binding somewhere, since the handle isn't coming all the way back into the housing in the interior. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dw-0p8Z21S0 Video of a guy opening (unlocking) a door with a coat hanger: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgPLe5oRfQc Unlocking and opening work the same way, the only difference is there's two different rods. Pull one, it unlocks? Pull the other, it opens.
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Jul 7, 2015 20:33
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Jack B Nimble posted:So my truck, 95 ford f150 with the 4.9 straight six, shows what I'd say to be 10 volts on the dash, but when I checked the terminal posts with a multimeter it showed 13 and some change while the truck was running. I called my friend to make sure I was doing it right (DC 20 selected, touch the positive lead to the positive terminal, ect). The only precision you can count on it for is that it will generally show the same value for "normal" voltage. Not a CORRECT value, but a consistent one. Oil pressure (if you have it) is the same. (My '00 Mustang is like this too.)
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Jul 8, 2015 01:20
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Flo Cytometer posted:I need advice from someone who is familiar with the Ford Triton 5.4. And then be thankful you're doing it in an expedition and not a mustang. 
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Jul 9, 2015 05:54
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Cage posted:Spark plugs in a new edge? I just did them a few months ago, took less than an hour and all I had to do was take off the air intake. The coils are on top of the plugs and aren't hard - one 8mm bolt, pull, disconnect from harness.
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Jul 9, 2015 18:28
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Cage posted:Yeah but you said "you should be thankful you're not doing it in a mustang" so I just assumed you were talking about the mustang you own. My mustang doesn't have a 4.6L
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Jul 9, 2015 18:30
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Cage posted:Oh deng. Oops. Not easy in a 3.8? Yes, we swapped in a 5.4. The 4.6 was mistreated by the PO and since we were in there anyway, you know. Had to.
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Jul 9, 2015 18:37
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Godholio posted:Plugs are a loving BITCH in a 3.8 Taurus, I know that.
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Jul 10, 2015 05:18
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Flo Cytometer posted:Its pretty common on this beast (and the F-150, at least): I use that hole as a fill plug on my jeep with an 8.8" rear end, and I had a lot of fun cutting those tabs off.
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Jul 13, 2015 05:32
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Flo Cytometer posted:I survived the 5.4 plug and coils.. this can't be THAT bad. Right?
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Jul 13, 2015 06:17
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Enourmo posted:The hardware store almost certainly will, if they carry metric hardware. Most terminals have a nut and bolt setup, if the nut is free-spinning you could just loosen that while holding the remains of the bolt head with a vise grip; if it's a recessed hex or square nut that you can't get at, or if it threads directly into the terminal metal, you'll need to either try and loosen it with vice grips, use a hacksaw blade to cut a slot for a screwdriver, or if you have an angle grinder/dremel just use that to grind the head off. OP, I've had good luck with putting significant pressure on a screwdriver and turning slowly. If you want to be able to put more (enough) pressure, place the remote on a somewhat soft surface, like a towel on a table. As for where to get a replacement - I'd think auto part stores would stock them, or maybe Amazon?
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Jul 13, 2015 11:37
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Flo Cytometer posted:No worries if you have to go digging for it, but I appreciate the offer. There is just a 3/4" bolt holding that sucker on from what I can just use by finger size estimation. If you do happen to just find it 
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Jul 13, 2015 16:56
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Three-Phase posted:Is it true that you cannot get an accurate alignment check unless the car is on a lift?
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Sep 22, 2015 23:33
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Three-Phase posted:Gotcha - this one dealership near me has an alignment they do when you bring your car into the "holding bay", but they said it isn't guaranteed good because the floor isn't even. I've had it indicate out of alignment once when I was there, I took it to the repair shop in question (the one that didn't center my steering wheel correctly), where they have a much newer alignment system, and they said it was well within spec. There never was any evidence of alignment being really bad like pulling or odd tire wear. I guess that's the other purpose of the lift, if a shop had an uneven floor. Though I'd wonder how level the lift is if they didn't bother to level the floor surface.
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Sep 22, 2015 23:49
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Three-Phase posted:I guess in the old days you'd loosen a nut, adjust the steering wheel, and tighten the nut. Now you've got to do this whole alignment hokey-pokey to get it straightened, that sucks. In theory, the wheel should always already be straight if all alignment is correct and no parts are damaged or worn, but in practice, it's not unheard of to correct alignment, correct hardware, and still have to adjust the wheel to straight. Go have them straighten it. If they won't, don't get it aligned there again and take it somewhere that will.
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Sep 23, 2015 01:49
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spog posted:(i.e. I have a vacuum in my tyre) Remember, flat is (roughly) atmospheric pressure. Most of the structure of most tires (i.e. not run-flats) comes from the air pressure within the tire. A bubble is part of the structure which holds that pressure being unable to hold it in the desired shape. Like a hernia, sort of.
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Sep 23, 2015 14:03
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I think what you want is "stated value" insurance. As far as I know, that's the only way to have it both ways (i.e., insurance for more than KBB but be able to drive it).
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Mar 24, 2016 23:43
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They didn't, but it's always been optional. Or more precisely it hasn't ever been on every car.
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Mar 25, 2016 16:59
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Age or cracks are the usual telltale signs. If there a bunch of little cracks in the rubber, replace it. If it's older than maybe 5 years, replace it. Or, alternatively, if you're setting the tension to spec and it still squeaks, replace it.
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Apr 6, 2016 18:57
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Does this seat look familiar to anyone? They were bolted into a International Scout II, but definitely didn't come from it originally. Trying to figure out what they're from so we can decide if it would be a travesty to make office chairs (well, shop chairs) out of them.  Full album: https://imgur.com/a/AWKHq There's a rear bash panel (it covers the back of the base of the seat) that has some numbers on it, but none have resulted in anything useful in my searches: S <coach logo - looks familiar but I don't know what it is> 1CAV PT 1740871 ASM NO 20104425 REV 8 Then "P | P" encircled. Picture of this panel is here. Thank you!
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Apr 11, 2016 18:45
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A radiator shouldn't cost anywhere near $1000 - on most cars, it's a relatively simple job to perform (lower labor cost) and they're not usually expensive parts (I think the most I've paid for a radiator, over 4 wildly different cars, was $300). It is almost always cheaper to repair a car you have than to buy a new one. Think about it this way - if you buy a new car, you're going to pay that much in 4 months or less for the payment. If this car is paid off, I would personally keep it and fix it.
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Apr 11, 2016 21:14
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I know that Limited Slip Differentials act during braking to help maintain traction (basically, it's harder to lock up tires with an LSD between them under braking than it otherwise would be), but I'm curious if auto-locking differentials like the Lock-Rite or Detroit would do the same. It makes sense, as they are bidirectional, but ... do they?
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May 19, 2016 18:02
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Christobevii3 posted:They don't want you to hear the posi lock bang noise So, I appreciate the input, but I don't know that I've got a clear answer. I currently daily drive a Cherokee with front and rear auto-lockers, so I'm aware of the onroad handling characteristics, which I think are being overstated a bit. I know that they're not supposed to do anything without power applied, but I don't think 10.5" of rubber alone stopped me from locking up. (And no, I don't think the brakes are underpowered - it's well-maintained four wheel disc, with several upgraded bits.) The situation that led to this question was a panic stop that had me coming out of the seat, standing on the brakes, and honestly expecting it to lock - but it didn't. Is 10.5" of rubber on ~4000lb vehicle more adequate than I think it is, or is it possible the lockers did more than I expected?
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May 21, 2016 04:20
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Christobevii3 posted:You have enough rubber. Lockers will cause you more problems parking in tight spaces.
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May 21, 2016 05:07
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