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99 ford explorer 4.0 sohc Last week my heater worked great, one day in stop and go traffic I noticed it wasn't quite so warm but just assumed it was because I was mostly idling. Now I can drive for 45 minutes and the air never gets above "very slightly warm", it just slowly got cooler and cooler over a week or so. The extent of my knowledge is to check for coolant, and I have plenty in the tank and in the radiator itself. My coolant temperate guage doesnt work so I was going to just blindly buy a temp sensor to fix that and a thermostat hoping mine is stuck open. Anything else to look or check for? Cage fucked around with this message at 17:08 on Feb 24, 2015 |
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Feb 24, 2015 17:05
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Geirskogul posted:You're overheating your car, most likely.
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Feb 24, 2015 22:17
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No autozone/advance auto/pep boys near you? Do you have an android phone? Just buy a bluetooth obdii reader for $13 on amazon and the torque app for $5. If the CEL was blinking then don't drive it at all, if it was just steady light it could be anything from a loose gas cap to an exhaust leak.
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Mar 24, 2015 19:46
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I got "system too lean" when my cats were barely connected at the manifold.
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Apr 4, 2015 16:42
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I just did a job that I didn't think I would be able to do. Popped out an old mid pipe and installed a new one, and then I did my spark plugs. Shop wanted $200 for the R&R, and $150 for the spark plugs so I saved a good $350. I have no idea whats involved in a timing belt, however.
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May 5, 2015 18:59
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Anyone know what o2 sensor data is supposed to look like?  From what I can tell they seem to be working fine, the voltage is always somewhere between .1 and .9 which is good I think and its not flatlining so thats also good? Im chasing a P0133 (passenger upstream o2 slow to respond) and occasional P0153 (driver upstream o2 slow to respond) after installing a mid pipe. No leaks that I can hear, MAF was cleaned last year but Ill give that another shot.
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May 11, 2015 15:24
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totalnewbie posted:Yes, I do! Thanks for the heads up that the sensors look good though. I guess Ill clean the MAF next since Im 99% sure there aren't any leaks. Cage fucked around with this message at 15:56 on May 11, 2015 |
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May 11, 2015 15:53
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totalnewbie posted:Okay, well then, it's possible that the pipes are of different lengths than OEM and so the travel time from engine -> O2 sensor is longer than the ECU expects.
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May 11, 2015 16:30
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Buy 5x7 index cards instead? If thats the part you're hung up on why do anything at all? You could spray everything with plastidip and then just use a plastic knife to separate and peel I guess.
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May 14, 2015 17:52
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I dont see how a wheel with overspray on the tire would look better than some old chrome but no that wouldn't cause any problems for a tire installer.
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May 14, 2015 18:16
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Yeah roughly. Rockauto has some for $94, theres always a 5% coupon floating around but you would have to pay shipping too which is usually fair. I was able to find a set for $50 for my mustang, but they're a bit more simple than yours and the rears are just two little squares.
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Jun 9, 2015 22:50
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FYI plain jeep floormats: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1373723&parttype=741
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Jun 28, 2015 22:05
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My mustang is the same way, and they just stick more straight out than curving downward.  I dont have them, I dont think they look good with a frameless window. Your subaru may vary.
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Jun 29, 2015 03:11
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Howard Phillips posted:So I have a 2006 Toyota Camry sedan with stock CD player and non JBL audio system.
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Jun 29, 2015 20:03
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Krakkles posted:Loosen the engine mounts, lift the engine up. Unless you're talking about the coils, then ok yeah I have no idea where those go to so maybe thats the hard part?
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Jul 9, 2015 18:19
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Krakkles posted:He's talking about the 5.4, which is significantly wider than the 4.6.
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Jul 9, 2015 18:29
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Krakkles posted:I am Or did you do a 5.4 swap? I am so confused.
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Jul 9, 2015 18:33
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some texas redneck posted:That's what I was afraid of. Nothing a generic scan tool could pull, right?
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Jul 18, 2015 18:37
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I took my battery to get tested at advance auto. He hooked something up and had me turn the hvac on and rev the engine and he said he battery didnt look good. I then went to another advance auto and he said it looked fine. Its been starting up no problem 4 months later so I dunno.
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Jul 27, 2015 23:09
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The Wonder Weapon posted:I'm up in Buffalo and I'm considering a Porsche Cayman as a daily driver. I've read some about how well they handle in the snow, but I'm wondering if anyone here has personal experience with winter driving they'd care to share. It was fun driving it but I put it away for the season now. I would recommend finding a cheap crown vic or civic to get you through winter. Cage fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Aug 4, 2015 |
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Aug 4, 2015 19:55
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Those windows are hilariously purple. It looks warm where you live, is it? Get some window cleaner with ammonia, spray a healthy amount on the inside tint. Get black garbage bags or some aluminum foil and cover the whole inside window with it. This will cook the adhesive inside at long as its at least 70ish degrees, and if you're lucky it will peel off in pretty big chunks.
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Aug 12, 2015 21:13
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I dont know much about manuals but mine feels just as tight as it did 22k and 2.5 years ago. I like to (mostly) baby it especially since I've had a throw out bearing squeal ever since I got the car. Ill revmatch downshift to 3 and once I drop below 1k Ill shift to neutral. Revmatching 2nd and 1st requires more accuracy or else you get the classic head bob. What would be worse for a clutch in the long term? Giving it too many rpms at a stop and letting the clutch out slower for a smoother start, or not giving it enough and bogging the engine?
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Sep 4, 2015 22:24
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 The previous owner used some gasket sealer on it to seal it back up, and now we're back to square one. I added a little more just so I can drive it in the meantime. But I want to pick up a new housing. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/racatalog.php?carcode=1425024&parttype=5128 Since my sensor is still good and it just pops out of the housing I should be able to buy any of those and replace the sensor, right? edit: Nevermind, I just bought this one on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/131414698569 Cage fucked around with this message at 19:39 on Oct 1, 2015 |
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Oct 1, 2015 19:20
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edit: nevermind.
Cage fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Oct 12, 2015 |
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Oct 12, 2015 18:54
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What would cause my right front brake to brake harder than the left side? My car will pull to the right slightly when braking, and when changing the pads earlier this summer the right side was more worn than the left. Do I just buy a new caliper and hope that fixes it? Ill checked for crimped brake lines too. If its the caliper do I have to replace them in pairs or am I ok to replace just the one side? Cage fucked around with this message at 16:06 on Oct 15, 2015 |
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Oct 15, 2015 15:56
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InitialDave posted:Most likely a caliper stuck. Depending on the design, it can be the caliper stuck on the carrier, even though the pistons move freely. If things seem a little corroded, but not absolutely horrible, you have a good chance of being able to clean it up and fix the problem either for free, or for the cost of a seal kit.  I'm about to put it away for the winter so Ill just keep an eye out for a good deal. tater_salad posted:Most places don't sell Single sides worth of pads.. if you got em change em (both sides) it'll add another 30 min to your time then you aren't dicking around replacing 1/2 pad sets for eternity.
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Oct 15, 2015 17:16
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routine.
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Having a 2nd set of wheels is cool and good because then you can swap winter/summer wheels yourself. I went from a 17 inch to a 15 inch for the winter, saved me money from buying bigger tires and it let me paint them a dumb color.
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Nov 11, 2015 19:49
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The cheapest $5 ones at advance auto work pretty darn well for a summer blade.
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Nov 12, 2015 03:37
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They probably have hundreds of steelies but if you're going to a junkyard don't forget to factor in the cost of getting the tires mounted. Tireracks wheels aren't garbage, just don't plan on hitting curbs with them.
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Nov 18, 2015 23:46
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I'm the only one that thought "Put it on the only drive wheel and Do A Burnout™"? Get a camera.
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Nov 22, 2015 19:54
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I dont know what kind of car you drive, but you should buy some soft 8s for it.
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Jan 6, 2016 21:49
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Thats true, plus sometimes you get that kickin red and blue stripe.
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Jan 6, 2016 22:23
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You feel cool as hell shifting a stick  More control of your vehicle (passing people on highway, driving in snow), better mpg if you focus on improving it, cheaper to replace if/when something goes wrong. Though these advantages aren't always 100% true. Cage fucked around with this message at 18:21 on Feb 28, 2016 |
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Feb 28, 2016 18:10
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punk rebel ecks posted:So my sister was talking about how I would be better off spending like $16,000 to get a newer car from 2013 and low miles rather than spending $9000 to get a car from 2009 with moderately high miles. She states that it is more likely for the former car to last significantly longer and I will get more for my money. She says she now uses a rule of thumb to not get a car older than 3 years old since she got her current car when it was 5 years old and five years later it is starting to show problems that I listed earlier (Honda Civic). How true is this?
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Mar 3, 2016 17:00
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Tirerack has good prices sometimes but their shipping usually kills the deal.
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Mar 11, 2016 00:42
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EightBit posted:Good luck dealing with insurance if it ever gets stolen!
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Mar 23, 2016 14:55
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Wasnt sure where to put these so Ill ask here: I wanted to plastidip the gray fender trim that runs all the way around my explorer, plus like two inches above the doors because theres a little rust and I don't care enough about a real fix. Last time I used plastidip I used some painters tape to block off the stuff I didn't want, but then when I peeled the tape the plastic was still mostly stuck and didn't have a clean line. If I want to avoid that what do I use? Some sort of plastic knife and just run it around the trim before I start peeling?
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May 11, 2016 20:49
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My dad has an 09 grand marquis, and the auto climate control system stopped working on him. He only gets hot air, the AC lines are ice cold and when we do the self test dianostic it points us to a blend door code. After he performs the self test, the AC will work for between 30 seconds and 3 minutes afterwards, and then you can hear the blend door move back and we get a blast of hot air. It first happened a few weeks ago, and when he did the self test it fixed it until now. Hes done it probably 20 times and every time it eventually switches back to full heat. Tearing down the dashboard to get to the part is at least a full day job. Figure these cars were selling mostly unchanged for long enough that someone else had this issue. Is there somehow an easier way to rig something up to manually move the blend door himself?
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May 24, 2016 17:42
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some texas redneck posted:If you hollow out the cat, you'll enjoy a permanent check engine light, and it'll never pass emissions again if you're in an area that checks emissions. It's something people have done in the past, but it's very illegal, and offers no performance advantage on modern cars anyway. It also bumped my HP up a not insignificant amount, but I'm not sure if 2004 fits in your definition of modern. Cage fucked around with this message at 14:31 on Jun 9, 2016 |
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Jun 9, 2016 14:28
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| # ¿ May 11, 2024 12:17 |
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Godholio posted:Almost anything makes more sense than intentionally defaulting. What the gently caress?
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Jun 23, 2016 16:34
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