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I've got a 1990 Toyota Crown ~Royal Saloon~ wagon I've imported from Japan to drive around like an old grandpa here in the USA. It's equipped with a 1JZ-GE. I've already changed the water pump, timing belt, tenisoners and various other bad bearings within that system and everything is A+++. However, I get terrible gas mileage. Come to find out the oxygen sensor situation is...messed up.  Right here is the factory diagram for this specific car, showing part 89465, 'SENSOR, OXYGEN' toward the upper left there. It's a single, unbroken wire that terminates into a connector. Like most other oxygen sensors the sensor end plugs into the exhaust before the catalytic converter. On my crown I have a sensor plugged in there but it isn't connected to anything. To my ignorant eyes, in fact, it looks like the wrong sensor, it looks more like an exhaust sensor since this is what the bare end in my car looks like:  To me that looks suspiciously like the sensor end of the 89425, 'SENSOR, EXHAUST' part helpfully also on that diagram above as this one has a single wire and has this little rubber grommet thing with the single copper contact sticking out. Looking around I see some 'universal' sensors looking like this so it's perfectly possible that this is one of those, just not connected. The other issue relating to this is, since the sensor isn't plugged in to anything I have to hunt around for what the sensor is supposed to plug into. Finding this information is hellaciously difficult because of language barriers, and what information there is simply goes 'use the current wiring idiot'. Weirdly I also have a tube with a single wire sticking out, in the upper left of the picture with the '???' by it. That is a single wire sticking out that looks like it was cut and has just a bit of copper on the end left to hang. This disappears into the wiring close by. I do have this that is in-line with the distance and position of the oxygen sensor to plug in to:  This looks a lot like the other end that Supra guys with their 1JZ-GTEs plug their oxygen sensors into as illustrated in posts like these.  With mine being a 4 pin connector rather than the 3 pin the guy in that post was looking for. I have no dash lights or check engine lights (and the bulbs do all work since they light up with a key turn) just awful gas mileage which is always attributed to oxygen sensors going bad. Am I on the right track? These sensors don't seem to be bespoke wonder parts and there shouldn't be anything special about my Crown. I found this for sale here in the US that mentions a 4 pin connector and it's for a 1JZ-GTE in the right set of years that my car is in but I can't find a picture of what the connector end looks like. Base on the one dude above bitching about the sensor lies there is an unbroken plastic tab in the center of those sensors, where as my plug end has a break in that tab.
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Feb 28, 2018 20:11
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Uh... I think I may have found it. Maybe. Looks like it may have been shared with the US 1989 Toyota pickup? Has the right plug on it anyway - you have to zoom way the gently caress in on the plug to really see it, but you can tell that the notch in the middle lines up, can also tell that it has a groove on each side that would line up with that plug. This is awesome goddamn. I've already ordered the sensor (Prime  ) but will do as you instruct in regards to the checking the pins and probing it. I'll post back when I get it on Friday.Thank you a million!
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Feb 28, 2018 23:26
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Uh... I think I may have found it. Maybe. Looks like it may have been shared with the US 1989 Toyota pickup? Has the right plug on it anyway - you have to zoom way the gently caress in on the plug to really see it, but you can tell that the notch in the middle lines up, can also tell that it has a groove on each side that would line up with that plug. Right so I was doing more research and I found a picture of the OEM part:   It has a single goddamned wire so now I go back and look under the hood of the Crown again. The 4 prong plug that I'm seeing was originally taped up and out of the way, I had to unwrap an extra bit of electrical tape that was holding it to a larger loom of wire. Nowhere does anything actually say anything about this plug being used for the before-cat oxygen sensor, it just looks superficially like the OEM 1JZ-GTE 3 prong sensor that the Supra guys are always looking for. I just assumed it was what I was looking for. Now that I see the OEM part that is specifically for my Crown has a single wire I now am wondering if the ??? wire I circled in this picture  is the actual other end of this single-wire oxygen sensor with it's connector ripped off leaving the little nub of bare wire. This is what was suggested to me in the 'What Did You Do To Your Ride Today?' thread: Raluek posted:Could have snagged it on something with the added bonus that the wires line up absolutely perfectly if I bring them together, just sans a connecting part. The Denso part from Amazon did arrive today and does fit into the socket perfectly but when I started poking and prodding the connection on the car none of it made any sense, but that could easily be me being a very dumb boy when it comes to electrical anythings. When I look up the Denso part number I get zero mention anywhere of it ever being used in a Crown or Toyota sedan or anything at all. Essentially, I think that the ??? wire in the picture above is the actual sensor connector, the sensor that is in there is an aftermarket OEM-equivalent single-wire sensor that is supposed to connect to a plug that isn't there and is, instead, a bare wire that needs to be fixed right up.
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Mar 3, 2018 02:29
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And one is for sale in Orlando if you really want one
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Mar 5, 2018 04:00
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Kudaros posted:I'll be picking up a new 2018 Mazda3 grand touring hatchback tomorrow. I've driven nothing but some pretty insane junk up until this point, and have only made this move because I can most definitely afford it now and while I never thought I'd be making such a move (goes against my frugality), I made a value judgement opting for some measure of clarity that (I assume) new car owners must have. Do what the manual says. Usually it's "don't beat on it for x amount of miles" followed by whatever oil change recommendation it suggests with whatever kind of oil for wherever your climate is. Sometimes it's a year between oil changes provided you use the oil that the manufacturer suggests.
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Mar 17, 2018 03:06
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Eat The Rich posted:A friend of my family gave me a used car and it's a manual transmission and I have a lot of stupid questions. I'm having a hard time parsing 'wobble' in automotive context. Like the car shakes uncomfortably or just the engine makes a bunch of noise? I wouldn't worry about shifting down at all until you are comfortable with the manual transmission itself, later you can work on more journeyman-stuff like rev matching and downshifting. The car diving down (and the engine going vvVVVRRRRMMM) is as tactlessbastard says, you are engine braking. Using the mass of the engine to slow down the car because you are engaging the clutch, forcing the forward movement into the weight of your engine, slowing you down. To avoid this you revmatch, that is rev your engine (with the clutch in) to match the speed that the clutch will engage in giving you a smooth engagement. This takes practice and requires you to know whatever car you are driving because you'll do it using audio cues and 'feel' rather than looking at your RPM gauge. Kind of like touch typing, it's a skill you learn by feel. You don't have to downshift when stopping though, you can just clutch in and brake normally. The only time I downshifted when starting with a manual was when turning corners, most cars at most speeds will want 2nd or 3rd gear when doing this, from there you can start to build up your revmatch feel.
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Mar 23, 2018 01:39
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bawfuls posted:Any strong opinions about rubber vs polyurethane suspension bushings? Suck it up and use urethane. You aren't going to get in your car and go "dang these are just too harsh" because either you've been driving on lovely bushings so any new ones will be a fantastic upgrade or you haven't driven the car at all yet so you don't have an opinion yet.
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Apr 9, 2018 23:00
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Godholio posted:When I swapped out urethane for rubber in my YJ I could absolutely tell the difference. You might, but he won't in his Z project for the reasons I stated.
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Apr 10, 2018 06:31
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Nyyen posted:I've got some questions about utility vans and need to make sure I'm not being an idiot. I don't have any sort of real suggestion outside of searching for 'vanlife'. There is currently a huge sort of thing where people do exactly what you are asking about, in vans. 20 grand is a ton of money to do this with as well, with that you might be even able to get one of those Quigley 4x4 conversion vans used. Or go 'exotic' and get a Toyota Hiace import, get yourself a diesel 4x4 full-size van and still have a bunch of money left over. Plenty reliable. I also might be biased because we just picked up a Toyota LiteAce 4x4, and if I were a single person roaming the country side this would be the perfect sort of vehicle for it. 
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Apr 26, 2018 02:07
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Nyyen posted:I personally dislike the looks and the slight compromise to rear space. That's about it. I would prefer something with a bit more cargo space for hauling larger objects. I just see that as a way to get some more use and maybe dollars from the vehicle. I don't move people much so rear seating isn't something I really need. Any minivan is going to be a straight space upgrade to your current Wrangler though, and I am not quite sure how there is a compromise to the rear as you can always just take those seats out/fold them in? As an ~automobile enthusiast~ of the internet type, minivans are way cooler than Jeeps or CUVs. I don't get how a well-equipped sorta-hipsterish-vibe minivan (moms and dads think they are lame, thus they are cool) is somehow more boring than yet another 4 door wrangler being driven by a dad in a golf shirt and baseball cap or a lady with pretty hair. SUVs/CUVs are the uncool mom mobiles now, much like wagons are cool and sophisticated so too are minivans headed that way.
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Apr 26, 2018 15:59
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Dennis McClaren posted:I googled this but only found commercial application results. Makes me feel like I'm getting double-punked
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Apr 28, 2018 17:55
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Also Lexus has the punch-in-the-VIN-to-see-the-history service. ~Free~
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Apr 29, 2018 18:27
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1990 Toyota Crown Royal Saloon with the 1JZ-GE Schematics and part numbers can easily be found here. It has an erratic idle when the engine starts to warm up. When first started it idles fine, but as soon as some heat gets into the engine (around 4 minutes or so idling) it starts to awkwardly surge, sometimes enough to stall it. It still has the surging even if I press the accelerator down giving it more fuel. It does not change weather it is in gear or not. Another symptom of this is that it seems like there is much more water vapor coming out of the tailpipe during the surges, enough to leave a wet spot on the ground underneath the tailpipe. There doesn't seem to be a pattern or reason beyond the engine warming. It does not seem to get better or worse from this point on. It does not overheat, all the electricals are working, no warning lights in the dash and no leaks of any kind. There is no indication of coolant in the oil nor oil in the coolant, the coolant level stays steady. About a month before the surging issue I had replaced the water pump, timing belt, changed the oil (10W30 as recommended in the tyte JDM owners manual) and (as a consequence of the timing belt and water pump) changed the coolant. There was an oxygen sensor that was disconnected (just after the headers) causing the car to run rich all the time. Reconnecting this fixed the rich-all-the-time fuel thing, and about a week of driving after this the surging started happening. I replaced the fuel filter (cheap and easy) thinking that maybe now that it isn't asking for a ton of fuel all the time that a clogged up filter would cause the issue. I've got a new OEM fuel filter in there and there is zero change, still surges just like before. Since I am not a mechanic I don't have the wisdom to 'feel' what this could possibly be, and considering it's a JDM import here in the USA I can't easily look for information in English. Based on how the symptoms only start when it starts to get warm I have to assume it's some sort of throttle or temperature sensor, or maybe even some sort of coolant sensor, but again, I don't have the wisdom of working with cars for years to draw upon.
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May 2, 2018 21:50
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bawfuls posted:So there was one of each type in each caliper box, along with a pair of those pins that align the pads. Then in the box with the pads themselves, there were another 4 pins and 2 of each of the clips. This implies to me that each set was supposed to use one of each type of clip, but I have no idea where the second clip goes. Land Cruiser? I've got a 91 Prado that I happen to take a picture of just before I took it apart because I wanted to make sure I had it all set up correctly. Note that my hosed up clip is broken, which is why I ordered replacements.  Looking at mine that clip is on the bottom.
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May 8, 2018 02:58
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Large American butts
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Jun 8, 2018 19:16
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1991 Toyota Land Cruiser Prado with the 2L-T turbo diesel 4 cyl engine, JDM. Is it common to have two belts running in series that follow the same path? It looks to me like I have two belts that run off the crank, up to the water pump/fan, then over to the alternator. One is in front of the other and the follow the exact same path without deviation, every pulley having two grooves, one for each belt. If I were to order replacement belts would the part number include two belts or do I have to buy two of the things? 
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Jun 12, 2018 01:37
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Enourmo posted:It's possible your model had optional accessories available, and one or both of the belts would branch off to run those. I already have AC and seats that say 'Turbo' on them what other accessories could I possibly need  Dagen H posted:Wow, I thought only Chrysler did that. You have to ask for a "matched set", for obvious reasons. Yeah it's looking like I have to order two of them if I go aftermarket. It's fine, they are 6~ or so bucks a piece. It's just something I've never seen before and since it's JDM I figured I'd ask. Thanks guys!
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Jun 12, 2018 01:48
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Enourmo posted:Do you have sick 90s neon graphic stripes? Not on the Prado no, but the Surf does 
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Jun 12, 2018 02:19
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Javid posted:It's a gob of epoxy putty. I tore it out and did a crimp connector on the two original wire ends. I hope it doesn't contain a resistor or something. Cut it open and see!
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Jun 14, 2018 20:27
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Our Prado: There is a slight squeak that you can hear that I thought was a pulley but as we've been driving it around town there is a squealing belt that shows up when under acceleration. I've determined is the dual-cam/waterpump/alternator belts. I've got a set of all new belts, tensioners, pulleys on the way. I suspected it was those (dual series v belts) because they are quite loose. So my first question is how in the poo poo do I slide the alternator over on it's little pivot thing to put more tension on the belts? This picture shows that little box, says "REFER TO FIG 87-89 (PNC 88469B)". Leads here:  Which is the AC compressor location. It's difficult to see under the hood of the thing because everything is crammed, but it looks like that the little 88469B box thing is attached to this support bracket that hangs off the AC compressor that then has a super long bolt (88446-60020) that goes through the box. Which bolt am I supposed to mess with in order to adjust the alternator tension? Is it the long bolt? Is it the bolt that is connected to the alternator itself that you'd normally use to adjust every other alternator in every other engine in history? As an aside the voltmeter in the dash says I'm getting good voltage from the alternator (in so much as the gauge says I'm in the good zone) but the alternator is not charging the battery as a few weeks will go by and the battery will need charging on a charger to bring it back. Second question is I don't know exactly if the alternator is going bad or if the belt is slipping and whether or not the gauge is right or wrong. I mostly want to adjust some tension on the alternator to buy a bit more time before the belts get here from Japan, then I'm going to have it all apart anyway so it's mostly moot. Also would be nice to quiet the kind of embarrassing squeal.
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Jun 18, 2018 00:43
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Tires are the only thing that can actually stop you too, even for just around town driving. By new decent tires. You might be surprised at how much nicer the car will ride with new rubber too.
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Jun 20, 2018 18:06
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Aquapel is so much better than rainx, but this doesn't mean rainx is bad
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Jun 25, 2018 03:07
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Josh Lyman posted:I’m going to attempt my first oil change tonight on my 2008 Prius. I’ll be in a residential parking garage so flat concrete and around 78*F. I have plenty of Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-30, a Toyota filter, (presumably) OEM crush washers, and a drain pan. I do not have a filter wrench, but I’m hoping a rubber dish washing glove will give me enough grip to remove the old filter. The last oil change was done at a locally owned shop so hopefully they didn’t screw it on too tight. For the filter oil the rubber lip of it, you can use the old dirty oil. When you put the new filter on (after you've greased up the rubber lip) just tighten it has hard as you can just using your hands if possible. I always do it hand-tight on everything I've ever owned at it's always perfectly fine. Besides the LiteAce but that's because it's a huge pain in the dick to even get to the filter. thylacine posted:Is it possible for normal a/c condensation to leak out slowly over many hours? I drove my 05 3L Duratec Escape this morning and got home around 9:00 AM, I take the dog for a walk at 5:00 pm and there is a little puddle where the a/c usually drips. It's been really humid and it rained in between those times which really confuses me more. It's 97 degrees and the dew point is 60 something at the moment. Dip your fingers in it and rub them together, that will tell you real easily if it's just water or some sort of coolant. It is normal for me to see a puddle underneath my cars for hours (even overnight) where I am in Florida. Humidity means the puddle can't easily evaporate.
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Jun 27, 2018 01:58
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Josh Lyman posted:I'm aware of the oil smearing tip, but the OEM Toyota filter comes pre-lubricated. I'm not sure if smearing additional oil would help, hurt, or not really matter: If it's pre-lubed then no worries, you do that in place of it being bare rubber. If you don't lube it then it tends to stick and you have a harder time getting the filter off the next time. If you have a good angle on it I've had good luck with the nylon strap filter 'wrenches' in prying off old filters. Every time I get a new-to-me car from Japan the filters are always a pain in the rear end to get off. You absolutely want to change your oil before you leave on your trip. As Enourmo says too the torque spec is meant to prevent you from loving up your oil pan by gorilla-flexin' the plug on there. Like the filter itself you only need it to not leak, not be ultra-tight.
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Jun 27, 2018 02:51
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Tai-Pan posted:Have you tried refilling it yet? There is a 90% chance that is your problem. You can just go to your local Autozone and buy a recharge kit for R-134s. You attach the hose to the low-side pressure port and let it refill the system. Those stupid cans used to be about $15 dollars but now they are $40 for some reason. Its highly probable that you have a slow leak somewhere too, but its easier to refill it every year or so than fixing it properly. Yeah do this. I have a 91 Prado that the AC didn't work but the system was still under vacuum. Refilled it and what do you know it works perfectly now. In my case it's still an old R12 system but that doesn't matter much besides the fact that I had a lot more time for the R12 to defuse out the hoses. Also that mechanic is a moron and should be sacked because he obviously doesn't know poo poo about AC and is hiding his ignorance. The R134 is going up in cost because there is going to be a change over to a new refrigerant soon, turns out R134 is actually bad for the environment! Can always look into using computer duster.
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Jun 28, 2018 18:36
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Admiral Joeslop posted:I bought a can of the R-134a and a hose to go with it. I'll have to check the low pressure hose when I try it to make sure, because I can't find any information about this specific truck and whether it is 134 or the 12. Your truck absolutely is 134 so no worries there, they stopped R12 use in new cars in 1994. Does your compressor kick on at all? Like when you flip it on you should hear and feel the engine compensate.
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Jun 28, 2018 20:44
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Admiral Joeslop posted:
If you put in refrigerant then you have to have a compressor somewhere, those connectors are only used in AC systems. Do you have a picture of where your refrigerant went in? What you posted is an alternator, connected to the water pump and then probably connected to the crank which drives it all. The compressor (which will look like what scuz posted) might be on the other side. If the truck has AC controls in the cab then it at least came with AC to begin with, but it's always possible that someone removed the compressor later, the AC system is wholly separate from everything else in the truck with the exception of needing a drive belt off the crank. EDIT Motronic's AC thread goes over what an AC system is to help you figure out if you have a compressor. It's a looped system.
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Jun 28, 2018 23:06
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Godholio posted:Find a mechanic who isn't a dick. I wouldn't give that guy a quarter on the side of the road if he told me that. Admiral Joeslop posted:I drive a 2005-built Isuzu NPR truck for work. The air conditioning has never worked in the two years I've had it. The air blows out just fine but is not cold. The mechanic we have is entirely useless and refuses to fix anyone's AC because he thinks it's a luxury. How feasible is it for me to go to a pull-a-part, or eBay, or whatever, and get it fixed myself? It's his work truck and the mechanic is the work-truck-fixer mechanic. This isn't his personal vehicle. Thus I doubt he wants to take it in to another mechanic and pay for his work truck. Dude would just like to have working AC while he's at his job.
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Jun 29, 2018 01:55
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vulturesrow posted:
Does it sound like normal when it's cranking? just never starts? Usually that indicates some sort of 'engine not getting fuel' thing which can be anything from a clogged fuel filter (cheap) to something more like a failed fuel pump (more expensive via labor).
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Jul 5, 2018 00:38
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The Door Frame posted:Is there any way to rent a Kei car for a day or so? I've been pining for one for years. Considering that I barely fit into my rebadged Mazda familia cabriolet, I need to find out if I can even fit into my dream cars before I start earnestly squirreling money away for one It depends entirely on whatever kei car you are looking at. Various trucks and vans have pretty strict height requirements, Honda Beats are pretty well-known for being quite comfortable for taller people, Suzuki Cappuccino being the next best and if you are over 5'10" and weigh north of 200 lbs you will hate the AZ-1 if you can even fit. I'm waiting to take delivery of an AZ-1 this week to see what it's like. For reference I'm 5'10" and weigh about 155 lbs, and the Acty van I drove for a while fit me perfect, any taller and I'd have been uncomfortable. I expect the AZ-1 to be pretty similar.
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Jul 10, 2018 09:45
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Distilled water is so cheap that I just have a bunch of it around for various things, like making tea. Why not use it as needed in the cooling system of my fine automobile?
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Jul 11, 2018 18:59
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MrOnBicycle posted:Oh god I'm seriously considering buying a $1300 '94 LS400 with 180k miles that has emissions problems. It's a really bad idea, isn't it? Yeah no, they are among the most reliable of cars made. It was Toyota trying to sell Lexus, they poured incredible amounts of effort and money into that car. It's good and you can't go wrong with a Lexus LS.
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Jul 15, 2018 20:23
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 So uh, what exactly does this do?
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Jul 16, 2018 03:12
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Is it a thing where you can vinyl wrap grills? I've been kinda stuck on wrapping my AZ-1 instead of painting but I've got some grilly bits that I'm not sure how can be handled.
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Jul 17, 2018 03:25
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Detective Thompson posted:Where can I go to get some valuations for my 1985 Nissan? The KBB site doesn't go back far enough, and I don't think I know anyone with a book old enough to have those prices in it, not that that would be much use in 2018. What is it? You probably have a better chance of getting a good value in this thread vs anywhere else. An 85 is old enough that you have enthusiasts of some kind being the only ones actively looking for your car.
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Jul 22, 2018 00:09
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Old Binsby posted:So for another stupid question: that belt never once slipped, making that squeeling sound I associate with a loose V-belt. It just straight up died and tore in half at 60 mph. I don't trust any rubberized parts of the engine any longer, no matter what the PO says. He claims the distribution belt was replaced some 10.000 km ago but he has been wrong on multiple accounts now. Is it customary to replace both in one go? Can I check the age on the distribution belt proper? Any other vital, impossible to fix roadside, parts should I have checked before taking an old car like this on a 1500 km trip? As was said, the timing belt is the 'master' belt, in that when it comes time to change the timing belt you change all of the belts. Most engines are set up that in order to get to the timing belt you have to take the other belts off anyway. For someone to go through all the trouble of doing a timing belt but not the other belts is absurd because the cost of belts is 10s of dollars.
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Jul 27, 2018 09:11
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Fo3 posted:Don't trust anything plastic or rubber on old cars. Always carry a spare accessory belt - or also commonly called 'fan belt' (for water pump/alternator) in your old cars. Yeah this too. When I go to do a timing belt what I really mean is all belts, the water pump and and free-spinning tensioners and bearings. Springs too if I can find them. Timing belts require getting pretty deep in the engine so you just replace those things to hedge your bets about having to get deep into it again soon.
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Jul 27, 2018 17:10
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How common is it for a car to have two oil-related intervals, where one says "Every 5k kms change the oil and every 10km change the oil and filter"? The AZ-1's user manual shows this as the intervals and it's pretty odd to me.
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Jul 31, 2018 01:28
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I wouldn't be too surprised on a new car, but this AZ-1 is a 1992. I guess it being a kei car 3cyl might have something to do with it.
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Jul 31, 2018 04:06
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Deteriorata posted:That's been a recommendation going back decades on some cars. There's been discussion of it now and then through the years in the automotive press. Absolutely, but that just adds to the 'I know the manual says X, but you should really be doing Y' any time someone asks a question and the answer is 'do what the manual says'.
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Jul 31, 2018 04:42
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