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Powered Descent posted:Is there any good way yet to retrofit the headlights on a ten-year-old car to LEDs? Ideally, I'd be looking for some kind of drop-in unit to replace the bulb. If you want, there was an HID option for the 3. It was on the Grand Touring spec at least from 06 on; in 2005 it might have only been on the SP23 but I'm not sure. Don't know what kind of work it would require to switch over but I never considered it because the halogens on this car are pretty good. edit: and those also had LED taillights if you want those.
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Feb 8, 2015 09:25
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) it occurred to me that my car is the last bastion of the incandescent light bulb in my life. It would be great to switch to bulbs that will last basically forever, and never have to deal with said retaining clip ever again. Google tells me that such LED bulbs do exist, but I don't know whether they're any good or not.
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MRC48B posted:Emissions laws, probably. With the parts store reader you can reset your codes to try and dodge emissions tests. Yeah, this is the supposed reason, although I wonder if it really mattered because then your readiness state wouldn't be set in the ECU until you complete the proper drive cycles.
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Feb 9, 2015 16:30
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Safety Dance posted:The actual reason and the reason the lawmakers understand don't necessarily have to be the same. Hence my use of the word supposed. :P totalnewbie posted:Is it an Autozone thing or any shop in California, Hawai'i, etc? If it's the former, could just be a regional store policy for whatever stupid liability reason or whatever. All the chains in California are this way now. I don't see any evidence it's an actual law but probably a reaction to a reinterpretation of an existing law or a class action lawsuit. Motronic posted:No. I don't know where he got that idea. If it's a Mazda doing anything would break the LSD. You're better off with an open diff :P LeeMajors posted:Also, I'm not sure if other links are frowned upon heavily here, but here are some resources for you. 3rd generation specific. Linking to any useful resource is great! Don't know why it would be frowned upon.
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Feb 9, 2015 18:45
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Really though if you're rally crossing your car you don't expect anything to break?
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Feb 10, 2015 00:39
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within the past 5 years or so
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Feb 10, 2015 11:13
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kastein posted:My understanding is that the "californian stores won't read codes" thing is an overly broad interpretation of "don't clear codes for people" or a ham handed smog law of some sort. I've emailed Autozone customer support for a clarification of their policy.
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Feb 10, 2015 19:53
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nitrogen posted:You might want to invest in one of these things, and a smartphone app like torque or EngineLink as well. http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS Here's one that's rated a little better!
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Feb 16, 2015 10:07
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melon cat posted:Just following up on my smashed side-mirror. Were you trying to get it off with the door open? Can't quite tell from the photo but the plastic may be pressed against the door frame. Heated mirror glass typically has the plugs in the back of the glass like that.
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Feb 17, 2015 05:11
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AmyL posted:What if I didn't have an Android or a IPhone? Would http://www.amazon.com/Reader-Reset-Check-Engine-Scanner/dp/B007OZ2VC4 be a good buy? If you perchance have a Windows Phone I've gotten the one linked before to link up to my phone but haven't tested it extensively. I just tried a free version of an app and I didn't have any codes stored at that time, but all the other stuff worked. edit: Here's a standalone unit for cheap with 3,000 reviews. http://smile.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS300-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B001LHVOVK
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Feb 19, 2015 08:21
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On a similar topic, I talked to an AutoZone regional representative, and he stated the reason for not loaning out the scantools was because it's considered performing repairs without providing an invoice (?) which violates the rules of the bureau of automotive repair. Not sure I 100% buy it but it was a more clear answer than I've ever heard. Someone else can try getting an answer out of the other chains.
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Feb 19, 2015 22:57
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Slavvy posted:This could apply to pretty much any manual trans though. Autos are a different ball game entirely. Most danuals can last practically forever without changing the oil (performancy cars excepted). My Mazda 3 really didn't like it when I skipped the 30k mile fluid change for the manual transaxle. It got really tough to pull out of gear @ 40k. Never really felt something like that before. Maybe just a fluke obviously. But yeah the new skyactivs don't seem to have an interval on either transmission which I call a BS on.
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Feb 28, 2015 22:50
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Geoj posted:How cold are we talking? You'd have to be pretty far into double-digit negative temperatures for ATF to become viscous enough to effect shifting. The only other explanation I could think of is if the shop used the wrong type of fluid, either for your transmission or for weather local to where you are. I've had several cars that will hold lower gears / not shift into overdrive until warmed up.
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Mar 2, 2015 21:28
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Michael Scott posted:My '04 Camry is having this issue. It doesn't help that the old ATF was pretty gummy before I flushed it. I'll get on the highway with only a semi-warmed up engine and it'll stay stuck at 3,500 RPM until it warms enough and suddenly upshifts and goes to 2-2.5k RPM like normal. In my case it is by design and is tied to the ATF temperature rather than the engine coolant temperature (which is what you see on your gauges). The manual probably mentions it. In my case, it is perfectly normal. You have to look up yours but it sounds normal, especially if it's only keeping it out of the top gear (overdrive). Slavvy posted:Indeed, some older autos have a temp sensor specifically for it to know when the ATF is warm enough to allow OD to engage. My mother's trooper was like this. Weirdly my Mercedes manual says it is tied to engine temperature (it specifically states 80 degrees or something) but it obviously has its own sensor by the way it behaves. First year model printing error?
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Mar 3, 2015 03:02
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Perhaps. There was something else that made me think that too but I can't remember what now. I'm really getting off topic though. But, more off topic, funny fact, the gauge is actually labeled in degrees Celsius and moves around between 80 or 90 or so unlike other cars I've had where it just stays in the center.
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Mar 3, 2015 09:16
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totalnewbie posted:Plugs in those car are (almost certainly) nickel and should be cheap to replace. I don't know about that particular engine, but nickel plugs are a couple bucks each and shouldn't take more than a few minutes to change. (Or, certain cylinders could have plugs in very difficult to reach places, in certain engine/vehicle combinations.) Nickel plugs last about 30k miles. Unlike its LH big bro it's a transverse layout so the rear bank might be hard to reach.
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Mar 4, 2015 19:16
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IOwnCalculus posted:There's also the distinct possibility that, you know, the rotors / pads were just defective. Given that they apparently managed to put the wrong fuel tank in the car, some less-than-great rotor castings and pad materials is no surprise to me. Quality is job 1
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Mar 5, 2015 01:55
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Yeah, PZEV warranty is actually 15 years :P https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partial_zero-emissions_vehicle Whether or not that applies to the battery I don't know. See the part about the 10 year warranty for the traction battery, which in this case states PLUG-IN hybrid vehicle which that Accord is not and according to the article none of those actually exist. This of course is a Wikipedia article and I presume you've done your own research. Also hybrid is a separate trim from EX and LX, also isn't it a V6 hybrid?
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Mar 5, 2015 04:38
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Highbrow Slick posted:Yeah I noticed that even the Honda site says 15 years which is a crazy long time. Even the ARB rep on the phone said 10. The battery most certainly qualifies as an emissions component, and although the car is a V6 it definitely is a PZEV. It's just a little jarring that there seems to be little awareness about these warranties, and that Honda was almost aggressively oblivious to the ARB regulations. If I had not read up on it and known to contact ARB, escalate the issue to get a case number from Honda & file a warranty complaint, the car would have essentially been the driving dead. I don't see any indication the 2005 Hybrid is a PZEV vehicle (the 2006, however, is apparently AT-PZEV). There should be a sticker on the underside of your hood with emission information. A PZEV vehicle will have a zero-loss evaporative emissions system (EVAP). I'll have to go look at my car to see what it says to give you an example. Whether the battery is considered an emission component is up to the ARB. I don't think the car would be driving dead; it has a 240ish horsepower V6 engine in it. It was marketed as the top of the line performance version rather than an economy version. See what the Accord hybrid forums say about having a dead IMA battery; on the Civic and Insight you can get by without one but the Accord system is different from those and didn't sell well so there isn't that much info about it. Edit: Also the CARB is notoriously lovely. At one point it was being run by a diploma mill person. Maybe it still is. Sacramento didn't seem to see the problem with it. I don't live in California anymore so haven't kept up. It wouldn't surprise me to hear manufacturers or at least local warranty reps may try and play the not understanding the emission warranty game. Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 07:10 on Mar 5, 2015 |
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Mar 5, 2015 07:05
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The XT won't suffer the head gasket issue. The XT has a more sporty suspension than the base models, but at this age the struts are probably not top notch anyway. I think you should post in the Subaru thread about XT info. It runs an STi motor with a smaller turbo. They're potentially pretty beasty machines but I don't recall if they have any pitfalls. Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 11:55 on Mar 6, 2015 |
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Mar 6, 2015 11:53
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What kind of car is it? Maybe somebody's made a true auxiliary input for it.
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Mar 9, 2015 23:43
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What's your A/C ghost? Maybe somebody here could help with that too.
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Mar 13, 2015 21:41
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lol internet. posted:Would there be any reason why my bluetooth ODB2 reader with Torque pro can read the ECU on a 2007 Scion but it appears to not read a 2002 Civic? I thought I've read on here that the ELM327 clones have some trouble with those cars but I can't find the relevant post. I think maybe it was Some Texas Redneck? For my Mazda though I actually needed the engine running for whatever reason.
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Mar 16, 2015 01:37
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Git Mah Belt Son posted:No codes and still no blinking light, so I'm just going to chalk it up to being a fluke and keep an eye on it. RIP in advance.
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Mar 17, 2015 23:25
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How much is a bunch. Seasonal tire changes happen every year without any problem.
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Mar 19, 2015 06:07
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b0nes posted:Also am I obliged to fix stuff on the car? Yes.
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Mar 21, 2015 23:51
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Omglosser posted:Well I would expect the position to go up to 100% when I press the pedal to the floor, not 81.2%. Also it shouldn't read at 15.7% when the car is off and my foot is off the pedal, should it? I'm pretty sure those are the exact numbers my Mazda 3 gives me for the position of the gas pedal. It's normal.
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Mar 22, 2015 01:46
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Memento posted:Parts places will do it for free as long as you're not in California, where there's a law saying that you can't get it cleared by anyone unless they're licensed or something. It's supposed to stop people clearing their own codes before smog checks I think, ignoring the fact that if you clear your codes that will show up on the smog check and you won't pass it because you haven't done enough drive cycles. I talked to an AutoZone rep about this; it has to do with performing work without providing an invoice. This violates on of the rules of the Auto Repair Board or something.
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Mar 25, 2015 01:06
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Blow posted:The car stops fine with no noise when I am going straight. !!! You already said the inside of your brake discs is all scratched up! Why are you ignoring that.
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Mar 27, 2015 06:06
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Slavvy posted:Or, seeing as you literally only have to take one wheel off the car, you could check your brake pads? Here's my own stupid question: could you have a caliper stuck on one side? Like the inside is metal on metal and outside is okay?
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Mar 27, 2015 07:39
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Uthor posted:I got in my car, put on my seat belt, and my car kept beeping and flashing at me to put on my seat belt. I looked under the seat and the electrical connections seem solid. How do I begin troubleshooting this? Don't know about diagnosis but if it thinks the seatbelt is unbuckled the airbag will not deploy as forcefully (dual stage airbags were federally mandated unfortunately). It is a safety issue. Sorry.
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Apr 1, 2015 03:15
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some texas redneck posted:Do you not have another key matching the rest of the locks in the car? If you do, you can probably get in through the trunk (turn it left instead of right). If not, you'll probably have to find a way to get to a dealer, with proof of ownership (insurance ID card usually works), and get them to order a key for you. A valet key will be cheaper, and should (probably) unlock the passenger door and turn the ignition, but won't unlock the trunk. Or hold the key in the unlock position for a few seconds, it may start to roll down your windows.
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Apr 1, 2015 06:51
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Arrath posted:Tires! I'm not sure if this is the place to ask but I didn't see a tire megathread so here we go. I usually recommend people to check out the reviews on Tirerack.com and even discounttire.com. I don't know if people review the truck tires on there as much but it's worth doing some quick research.
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Apr 1, 2015 20:54
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Edit: do you mean you only have 10-20% tread left or only 10-20% worn? If your tires are really worn that low anywhere they need to be replaced regardless. Someone else can answer the rest of the questions though, I don't know. Maybe need an alignment? The Mandingo posted:I live in Dallas, Texas and I have a 2010 Honda Civic LX coupe which just turned 64,000 miles. I purchased it in January 2013 used with 34,000 miles, it was a 2 year lease before that. The last time my maintenance light went off, it was for an A13 service, so I dutifully had the oil and filter changed, rotated the tires myself, and then waited until two weeks later for when it was convenient for me to have the transmission fluid drained and filled. It's been at least two years since the brake fluid has been flushed if I understand right so personally I would bleed the brakes as brake fluid absorbs water over time. Whether you do that at the dealer is another question. It probably isn't something you need to do right away unless it's been especially contaminated or under repeated heavy braking, etc. Don't know about the p/s fluid. Edit: I'm really slow at typing on the tablet. Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 06:37 on Apr 2, 2015 |
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Apr 2, 2015 06:34
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musclecoder posted:Nope, no check engine light. And it get's to midway on the temp gauge and then I turn the A/C off, I'm worried that the car will overheat and shutdown. Shouldn't the engine idle at about half that?
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Apr 7, 2015 23:51
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musclecoder posted:Yes, I completely pulled that number out of my rear end but I checked when leaving work and the engine was at 800rpm. Ah, that's good. It will idle higher before it warms up though, so thought maybe you looked while it was still cold.
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Apr 8, 2015 04:10
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MRC48B posted:There is a technical reason for that as well, as the fuel pump uses the gasoline it sits in as a heat sink. Run the tank completely dry and on some designs you have a chance of burning out your pump. I hear this from people but is it really true?
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Apr 11, 2015 02:54
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Geoj posted:Sounds like your lights are out of alignment. Procedure for aiming is usually park the car on a level surface X feet/meters from a flat background, measure the distance from the ground to the center mark on the headlight, then add Y inches/centimeters to this and make a horizontal line on the surface. Then you raise/lower the beam until the cutoff is on that line. He's driving from a RHD country to a LHD country.
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Apr 12, 2015 21:21
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Maybe go someplace besides Sears?
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Apr 22, 2015 07:29
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some texas redneck posted:If the Suzuki just needs a new cat, pick up a Walker 16576 cat from Rockauto before you move and have it installed locally (the Walker is the only 50 state legal cat sold on Rockauto, though you still can't buy it in California). You can be truthful and say it was replaced in Alabama (just say it's been on there awhile, and make sure you drive it as much as you can before the move so it doesn't look brand new). They'll still smog it. (also what is it with Forenzas and cats? I've known 2 people who've needed new ones before 100k). You're probably right in that the Forenza isn't worth shipping, but it's at least a vehicle you know, and you know what to expect from it. They'll check the VIN when you register the car, but yeah it can't be smogged if the check engine light is on or not all of the readiness monitors are set. Otherwise you should be golden. Smog is done at a test station, while the paperwork is done at the DMV. Make an online appointment for the DMV and skip the line 
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May 3, 2015 22:10
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Gnossiennes posted:This is great information, thanks! We've never registered a vehicle anywhere but Alabama, so it's still kinda confusing, but it looks like it'll be ok. Yes, buying a car there will be easier because then it's the seller's responsibility to get a smog certificate, so you don't have to worry about that.
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May 4, 2015 16:19
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