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98 Civic, how important is the exhaust manifold heat shield? It's been rattling and driving my wife crazy, and a new one is $60-80 that I'd much rather spend on anything else. Mostly highway driving, never park in tall grass.
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Feb 13, 2015 10:08
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Find a friend with a welder and tack it back together or go to a REAL exhaust shop and have them tack it back together. It's mostly rust so not worth trying to salvage.
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Feb 13, 2015 23:38
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Take a look at rockauto.com also, I've seen mirrors on there for $30-50 for my cars. They usually don't come painted though.
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Feb 15, 2015 07:16
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98 Civic EX 5MT. The shifter won't go into first gear! Every other gear is available and engages smoothly. The clutch pedal feels normal (changed the fluid in August or so). When you move the shifter forward into first, it feels like something is blocking it and pushing the shifter to the right at an angle as you push forward. It moves forward about half way before you feel it being deflected. I don't have time to get underneath it until tomorrow, but anyone have any ideas? edit: I made time this morning, the plastic ring that sits on top of the shifter pivot? was broken and in 5 pieces. I removed the broken chunks and it works good as new! two_beer_bishes fucked around with this message at 15:45 on Feb 22, 2015 |
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Feb 22, 2015 13:24
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mr.belowaverage posted:Is this when stationary? Is it really cold where you are? Two of my cars nearly refuse to go into first when it's cold unless I'm standing still. Like not even rolling in the driveway. When warmer, they're both less picky. I just edited my post, got it fixed! Broken plastic chunks were wedged in there
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Feb 22, 2015 15:49
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Liam Emsa posted:I have a 97 Honda Civic. The e-brake light comes on when I accelerate. I think I've had this problem before, and I think the solution was to add Dot3 brake fluid to the brake fluid container. Am I right? I've had low brake fluid trigger the brake warning light before, but if this has happened before there is probably an underlying issue. I would give your brakes a look over to make sure there is plenty of pad/rotor left.
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Mar 24, 2015 21:39
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VelociBacon posted:Where's a good place to buy a new fender online? 2007 GTI, should be common enough. Have you checked rockauto.com?
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Apr 12, 2015 12:31
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98 Civic, steering wheel shakes only when braking above 65mph. I've taken it for a few spirited drives with lots of heavy braking in case it is deposits on the rotors but that hasn't helped. Pads/rotors were just replaced in December and the calipers were both replaced within the last 18 months.
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Apr 13, 2015 02:39
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Fucknag posted:Did the shaking start soon after replacing the pads/rotors? Rotors can sometimes have thickness variations straight out of the box. Maybe see about getting them machined (the shop may or may not require you to get new pads, it's a policy at some places.) No, this just started a few days ago
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Apr 13, 2015 03:43
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Sadi posted:So I have an intermittent starting problem. 97 Honda Civic 5 speed. When it works everything is normal. When it doesn't start you hear the starter solenoid click but the starter doesn't turn. Using a trouble light I see the starter has power, the solenoid sees power but the bridge from the solenoid to the starter does not get energized when the car will not start. I have tried connecting that bridge to 12V and the starter turns. The kicker though is that when the clutch is pressed and the solenoid clicks, I can jump the starter motor so that it spins but it is rotating freely with no engagement. If it ends up being the starter, it's a very easy job. There are some videos on youtube that help.
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Apr 25, 2015 01:36
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98 Civic EX, 248,000 miles. My wife has some weird connection with this car. She'll detect something is wrong waaay before I can. She's been driving this thing since it had 40k miles, still original clutch. She's complaining about the brakes, they have been vibrating for the past 10 days or so and seems to have gotten a little worse, but now she's saying "something's wrong, it's dangerous to drive". We just did the rotors/pads back in November and the calipers last May. The front shocks/springs were also replaced last summer. The rotors were under warranty from advance auto, so I exchanged those this morning and put the new ones on. The vibration had gone but something still feels a little funny, but it brakes strong. When I was putting it back together, I re-greased the caliper pins and noticed they felt like they were moving freely but only when being pushed in, they didn't have much "spring" back, if that makes sense. Is that a big deal? Could this be an indicator that the front control arms (or bushings, etc.) are due for replacement? Since I've now ruled out the rotors, I'm just not sure where to look next before giving up and bringing it to our shop.
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Apr 27, 2015 14:09
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Augmented Dickey posted:http://m.autozone.com/autozone-mobile/en/accessories/Rain-X-1-gal-bug-remover-washer-fluid/_/N-25ro?id=332603 Apparently the rainx stuff fucks up VW sensors too but didn't realize that until month after I put the stuff in. Oddly enough I haven't had any problems. I would play it safe and just buy the regular non-rainx stuff. My car is fine but I won't buy it again.
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May 24, 2015 05:16
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Augmented Dickey posted:Thanks, so what do you put in your reaervoir now? The few stores that I've been to only stock rain-x. Honestly, I've just kept using the same stuff since I haven't had to buy anything since then. I've diluted it with a bit of water since it's warmed up but come winter I'll be buying something not rain-x brand. I'll go where ever I have to just to find the regular blue stuff.
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May 25, 2015 04:05
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SomeDrunkenMick posted:I've tried that and I've not come up with anything specific to the equipment on my boat. It's a fairly unique design built in the 60's rewired in the early 2000's. Is there a good basic wiring primer website out there? Depending on what the problem is, you might just start at whatever device isn't working right and start tracing the wires checking for continuity as you go. Jiggle the wires and any plugs too while you're doing that to check for unreliable connections.
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Jun 14, 2015 13:45
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Uthor posted:I bought this one. I have this one too and it's perfect for Torque
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Jun 17, 2015 03:24
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I'm doing the brake fluid on my 2011 Golf this week. I have the motive pressure bleeder from when I had my e30 so I'm planning on using that thing. This will be my first time bleeding brakes without using the Ate blue fluid so how do I know when the new fluid has pushed all the old fluid out? Can I use the pressure to push all the old fluid out first, then when the lines are clear push the new fluid in (that way I know the old stuff is out and only the new stuff is in the lines)?
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Jul 13, 2015 13:50
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Ignoranus posted:Did I post this in the wrong thread or am I just being too impatient with waiting for an answer? Appears as though a 626 expert hasn't read this lately...I dunno. Does your car have a separate amp and a power antenna? If not you wouldn't have anything to connect it to, so leave it alone. The illumination wire I can't remember. As far as physically removing the thing, check youtube for a guide. I don't know anything about that car so I couldn't tell you anything specific. There is a car audio megathread that might get you some better info.
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Jul 21, 2015 08:53
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Entangled posted:Generic eBay turbos: Valid option to save $$$, or future content for "Post Pictures Of Horrible Mechanical Failures"? I remember looking into ebay turbos a few years ago and there were known problems such as the housings coming apart because they used lovely glue to hold them together!
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Jul 23, 2015 21:45
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98 Civic EX. I've replaced the front rotors twice over the last year, it is driven 110 miles a day and it's driven pretty hard (long island/nyc). The first time was because it was due for new brakes, then a few months ago if started vibrating like crazy when braking above 65mph so I got new rotors from advance auto. Now it's doing the same thing, and I think it's lovely rotors but I'm not sure (wearever brand). Most of my problems with this car have revolved around non-honda parts so I'm looking at oem rotors at $65 each. I've used raybestos in the past with good results so at $20 that might be worth a shot. Aside from the rotors what else could be causing this? New shocks went on last year but I'm not sure if the control arms have been touched.
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Aug 23, 2015 11:08
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Squashy Nipples posted:Long time ago, I used to work in the brake rotor business. OEM are always overpriced, and the quality of aftermarket stuff varies wildly. It vibrates a lot through the steering wheel but you feel it through the pedal also. The whole car sorta shakes. Leaning towards getting the OEM rotors if anything just to get rid of the lovely rotors and so we know it has good parts on it.
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Aug 23, 2015 19:30
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Geoj posted:Have you tried new/different pads? 95% of the time vibration through the brake pedal isn't warped rotors, but rather pad material buildup on the rotor. We put new pads on the first time. I've also done the hard braking from high speed down to almost stopped to try to burn off any deposits as suggested by some brake bedding guides with no changes. Edit: It just occurred to me that the pads I've been putting on are the same store brand bullshit. I'm going to get a set of Honda rotors/pads and go from there. Also going to pop off the rear drums and check out the shoes, after 255k miles it might be time for those to go too. two_beer_bishes fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Aug 23, 2015 |
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Aug 23, 2015 21:52
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What's the consensus on Centric brakes? I went to Honda today to buy rotors and pads and walked out when they rang up at $100/rotor and $70 for the pads. Right now I have centric rotors, akebono pads, and centric shoes for the rear, for $130 total and I'm having a hard time not ordering them despite my wife's order to get oem Honda parts.
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Aug 25, 2015 08:43
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Slavvy posted:Have you considered that it's your/your wife's driving habits causing the brake shudder? Gently riding the brakes for long periods of time, followed by sitting at a stop with them held on is like the top way to cause shudder and, coincidentally, the way the majority of people drive. What about the drums, are they out of round? What's considered long periods? She does mostly highway driving with city stuff thrown in at the end and she knows where all the really long lights are and pops the hand brake on at them so she isn't pressing the brake pedal the whole time. She bought the car with 40k miles and it currently has 255k miles, and this has never been an issue in the past so I hesitate to think it's her driving style. Does the parking brake engage the drums? When it's applied it feels mostly smooth (grinds a little but which I'm going to address with new shoes, but no vibrating).
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Aug 25, 2015 12:52
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IOwnCalculus posted:I had better luck with Centric rotors on my Mazdaspeed3 than I did with the OEMs. The factory ones warped twice in the first 40k miles so after the warranty ran out, I went with Centric blank rotors and Hawk HPS pads. Never had a hint of shudder again. Geoj posted:I switched to Centric as my preferred brand about eight years ago and haven't looked back. Thanks guys, I'm ordering this poo poo.
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Aug 25, 2015 21:55
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two_beer_bishes posted:98 Civic EX. I've replaced the front rotors twice over the last year, it is driven 110 miles a day and it's driven pretty hard (long island/nyc). The first time was because it was due for new brakes, then a few months ago if started vibrating like crazy when braking above 65mph so I got new rotors from advance auto. Now it's doing the same thing, and I think it's lovely rotors but I'm not sure (wearever brand). Most of my problems with this car have revolved around non-honda parts so I'm looking at oem rotors at $65 each. I've used raybestos in the past with good results so at $20 that might be worth a shot. Aside from the rotors what else could be causing this? New shocks went on last year but I'm not sure if the control arms have been touched. Update: Centric calipers and rotors with akebono pads are awesome as poo poo! Thanks for all the advice, I'm very happy with these parts and not paying OEM prices! Tuesday I'll tackle the rear drums just because there's nothing in our service records indicating they've been done in the last 255k miles
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Sep 7, 2015 00:46
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My wife's 98 civic has 260k miles on the original clutch. She's owned it since it had 40k miles. She doesn't do anything abnormal, she just drives it and she definitely drives it hard.
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Sep 16, 2015 11:10
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Mind_Taker posted:Where is the best place to get a trailer hitch installed (class I for a bike rack)? I looked at U-Haul and the internet is telling me they mostly do a good job and their price is better than a dealership, but I wasn't sure if there was a better option (other than DIY which I am not interested in doing). What car? I installed a hitch on my Golf in 15min, plus another hour or so for the wiring.
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Oct 7, 2015 20:26
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PaintVagrant posted:The car has 135k on it, and I assume the original clutch I agree with STR. My wife's civic has 260k miles on the original clutch and she drives it really hard.
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Oct 10, 2015 15:29
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I've mentioned my wife's civic before in this thread and I would appreciate any input on the latest issue. 98 Civic EX 1.6L VTEC, 260,000 miles. There's a tiny bit of oil in the coolant reservoir, just enough to gather around the top of the coolant. The oil looks normal and the coolant level isn't dropping. The car burns a poo poo ton of oil so it's tough to tell if it's using any more than normal. We're bringing the car in on Monday to have the head gasket diagnosed. Anything else we should be looking at?
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Oct 25, 2015 21:25
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Cthulhuite posted:Power steering pump died on my E46. I drove for three years after my power steering system failed in my e30. Never had a problem with it aside from trying to parallel park.
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Nov 1, 2015 07:18
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My friend has a 2003 3 series (325i, I think) and it has a vacuum leak but yesterday when he was driving it he came to a stop and the engine died. He said he put it in neutral and it started back up (sounds like that could be caused by the vacuum leak) and when he brakes hard/suddenly his speedometer will drop out for a second, headlights will flicker, and the dash warning lights will illuminate. He thinks it's caused by the alternator but I don't agree (unless the voltage regulator is making GBS threads itself). Could this be a bad ECU? I haven't been able to help out with it yet but I'll have time this weekend to go over and help out. Just trying to get a few ideas together first. I'll be bringing my voltmeter with me to check out the alternator... two_beer_bishes fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Dec 24, 2015 |
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Dec 24, 2015 19:58
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My wife's 98 civic is acting up again with the exact same symptoms as before. It pulls to the side and vibrates like crazy while braking but it's inconsistent. Sometimes the car drives perfectly, sometimes it doesn't. I've replaced the rotors/pads/calipers 3 times over the last 2-3 years,the brake fluid twice, rubber brake lines once. Each time after making those repairs the car is fine for 3-8 months (10k-12k miles). The struts/shocks were done in the last 18 months too. I haven't touched the master cylinder, tie rods, or control arms and I'm not sure the last time those were done. We haven't had an alignment in a really long time but I don't think that has anything to do with this. This car seriously just needs to last another month or two so I don't want to spend a fortune on it but she needs the dumb thing for her 45 mile commute. Any ideas?
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Feb 7, 2016 20:16
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Is it safe to put an 08 Porsche Cayman (2850 lbs) on four of these while I remove all four wheels? Or do I need something beefier? The weight will be fine but I don't think anybody will be able to tell you if the slant is too much without seeing it. It's probably fine, but it's tough to say without seeing it.
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Mar 21, 2016 22:58
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Need some advice. 1998 Civic EX, 268k miles, original clutch. The car burns through oil to the tune of a quart every 600 miles. The coolant level dropped significantly in the last week when I last checked it and there is evidence of a bad head gasket (milky residue on the inside of the oil cap, but the oil is still in good shape), front brakes need some work again, the muffler needs to be replaced, valve seals should probably be done to help the oil consumption... I'm not sure if I can tackle doing all this work in the near future so if I pay the shop to do it I'm probably looking at $1500 (I'll do the brakes myself, I'll just have them do the engine/exhasut work), and if the clutch decides to take a poo poo soon that's another ~$800 or so. This car has historically cost us $150/mo in maintenance and all the work it needs will add to that significantly. I'm leaning towards doing all the work myself (except the exhaust) and save the money. I can carpool to work so even if it takes me a week or two I won't be too inconvenienced. The gently caress do I do with this thing?
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Mar 23, 2016 00:58
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Imagined posted:2014 VW Golf. No sunroof (Everywhere I look this problem up on Google the first answer is "Your sunroof drain tube is clogged"). Rained overnight, this morning when I turned or hit the brakes water dripped on my foot. The floor board is all wet on the driver's side. What gives? My wife has a 2011 Golf and while the water problem hasn't been nearly that bad, she complained a few weeks ago about water dripping on her, when raining, from the top of the door. I checked out the weather stripping and the seals and they looked fine. I bought 8ft of 1/4" OD vinyl tubing from home depot and stuck it in between the weatherstripping and it's been perfect ever since. Check it out here Without knowing where your water is coming from, it might be worth trying (I only spent $4 on the hose).
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Apr 17, 2016 16:53
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I'm looking at new wheels for my BRZ so I can run a little bit wider tires (225 or 235). I would also like to get the wheels/tires a little more flush with the body. I don't want to get spacers since they're expensive and I've heard they gently caress with wheel bearings a lot too. Should I be looking at a different offset for the new wheels to get the same result?
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Jul 3, 2016 20:49
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Xpost from the detailing thread: Some rear end in a top hat opened their car door into mine and put a nice ding and left some paint on mine. It's a BRZ with really thin paint. I have a touch-up pen ready to use to cover up the paint that they removed, but what's the best way to remove the paint transfer that their door left? I don't have a buffer but I have a pretty nice electric drill.
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Aug 29, 2016 16:41
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I'll give the claybar a shot this weekend and go from there if I need to. Thanks for the input!
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Aug 29, 2016 19:47
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Out driving last night and we saw a 40s or 50s car on a trailer. My wife has mentioned several times before that she wants an old car like that after we buy a house and she asked about their reliability and what happens when they break down. I'm sure it depends on the specific year/model, but how tough is it to find parts for older cars like that?
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Oct 9, 2016 15:53
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Thanks for the info guys!
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Oct 9, 2016 18:38
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