AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

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spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

I need to get a tyre sealant/inflator kit for emergency use, since I can't carry a donut. I've never used one before.

(Saab 9-3 with pretty low profile tyres)

Anything to look our for, or just get a 'smart repair kit'?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Slime-18003...rds=tyre+repair

Or should I be looking for an OEM kit

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAZDA-EMERGENCY-TYRE-REPAIR-KIT-COMPRESSOR-SEALER-UNUSED-/161597814347?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item259ffaf64b
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-M...=item2c96ab72e3
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Contimobi...=item4d2d5745a1

spog fucked around with this message at 15:50 on Feb 13, 2015

# ¿ Feb 13, 2015 15:38

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# ¿ May 3, 2024 04:31

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

Bovril Delight posted:

Get a dynaplug.

That's pretty interesting, thanks.

Would have worked well when I got a wood screw in my tread.

However, the last puncture I had didn't have a simple hole (seemed to be a tear), so I couldn't have plugged it. The first ever flat I had was caused by a stanley knife blade- which I didn't think should be strong enough, but must have just got the right angle - so it was a long, thin cut.

I may pick up a dynaplug. But as well as that, should I get:

# ¿ Feb 14, 2015 13:52

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

I am picking up a subtle vibe that you guys prefer the plugs to slime. I've never heard of using them before, but if you rate it, then I'll give it a try. I assume that the first one on Amazon is the right choice:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/DYNAPLUG%C2...ywords=dynaplug

I'm going to get the Slime branded pump kit that I posted earlier (and not the more expensive OEM)- I need a pump anyway and I want something that will give me an option if the plug won't work (like my last puncture).

The reviews say that it is water soluble, so the tech won't hate me too much and I make it a policy of buying new tyres if I ever get a defect with one anyway.

EDIT: I am kind of stunned at the number of people who expect/are using this as a permanent repair. Even on motorbikes.

spog fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Feb 15, 2015

# ¿ Feb 14, 2015 21:47

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

Godholio posted:

Yes you should do it.

You should also check them every once in a while, even if you have TPMS.

I want to take this opportunity to curse all POs who seem to have an inability to keep tyres at the right pressure.

Any time I check a tyre that I didn't previously check, they are always 10psi down.

Last night I checked my new car - 35 on the label, 25 in the tyres. I used my little 12v compressor and melted it.

I don't know why pressures are so neglected: it is a literal 3 min job with no thinking if you use a mains compressor with a digital gauge.

# ¿ Feb 16, 2015 19:23

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

The rubber seal on my soft top cover is a water trap and I want to keep it dry. ('06 Saab 9-3 Convertible)

It is the seal that sits between the hard lid and the top of the bodywork (similar to a door seal). It seems to be a bit of a design flaw: when it rains the water runs down the vertical part and sits in the horizontal part, between the seal and the bodywork it is mounted to. (Hope that is clear).

I wonder if I were to run some clear bathroom sealant along the top of the bodywork, it would a) keep water from accumulating and b), if it does build up, the sealant will keep it off the bodywork.

Or should I stuff the gap with silicone or similar?

# ¿ Feb 22, 2015 23:28

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

ZentraediElite posted:

How can I get my car unstuck? It's a Hyundai Elantra.

Here in Pittsburgh, we've recently had a cycle of freeze/thaw. I park in a gravel parking spot behind my house. The snow/ice melted under my tires and froze. When I put it in reverse, both tires just spin on the ice and the car doesn't move. I tried kitty litter, which just made a giant mess. I tried some rubber mats we had, and they just slid under the car and shot out at the fence.

I just wanted to see if anybody had any tricks before I cave and call AAA.

Hot water to melt the ice?

Hit the gravel hard with a hammer and break the ice?

# ¿ Mar 5, 2015 17:19

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

saint gerald posted:

Stepdaughter's.

Appropriate response to her father who told her to "just stay off the interstate?"

'That's why I am the better father.'

# ¿ Mar 16, 2015 16:20

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

2006 Saab 9-3 convertible.

Want to add LED DRL to it. At the moment, doesn't have any DRL enabled (all lights turn off when the ignition is off)

I am thinking that one of these, connected straight to battery terminal and the sidelights

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360994863499?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Plus, these under the headlight glass

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Super-Daytime-Running-Styling-Lights/dp/B004ROPXES/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=19EN03VBRAF0D6DNX2C8

Will do the job. Anything I have missed (apart from the obvious taste issues)

# ¿ Mar 21, 2015 23:10

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

SperginMcBadposter posted:

Does fuel injector cleaner that gets mixed in the gas tank actually work?

BG44K gets some good reviews as is a lot more concentrated than the other stuff on the market.

Anecdotally, it idles smoother and improves economy slightly.

# ¿ Mar 30, 2015 23:29

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

Raluek posted:

Usually there's a few gallons of reserve past "empty" to get you to fill up before it's too late. My cars have always been way non-linear and inaccurate, but the Shadow seemed pretty accurate to me. But I don't remember how far past "empty" it could be pushed, although I did run it dry a couple times.

Has anyone here had a car with an accurate fuel gauge?

(I.e. the readings other than 'full' being correct)

# ¿ Apr 11, 2015 00:39

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

Tomarse posted:

Having attempted to block bits out with bits of tape myself with no obvious effect on the light pattern I have given up and shall have to try and buy some of the expensive stickers on my way to the channel today!

http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel/travel-accessories/car-headlamp-converters/halfords-headlamp-converters#tab3

Don't waste money on the expensive stickers: look at the video there where a very dull man will tell you where to stick them on an MG - but also explains the philosophy of where to stick them (it is counter-intuitive)

Here's the vehicle list:
http://www.motoring-into-europe.co.uk/download/travel-spot-latest-vehicle-listing.pdf

Here's the fitting diagram:
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2dafxv6&s=8#.VSuMW_DMkiU

Here's 6! tedious videos on how to fit them:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dkMlqhpQZ78

spog fucked around with this message at 10:30 on Apr 13, 2015

# ¿ Apr 13, 2015 10:19

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

Astonishing Wang posted:

But if the job goes away in two weeks you're gonna be pretty bummed that you signed a two year lease.

Listen to this man.

At the very least wait until you've got your feet under the table before committing to a long lease.

Or consider using your decent credit to buy a used car that you can sell if it all goes wrong without a big loss. A Mini is good for that - holds its value well and a slighter older one doesn't look like an old model.

# ¿ Apr 18, 2015 17:04

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

kid sinister posted:

The secondary dash power socket in my 2003 F250 doesn't work with any adapter I plug into it. Here's the weird thing though: I tested it with my multimeter and it has proper voltage. Has anyone come across this before?

Yup, that happened to me.

Turned out to be the adaptor was slightly the wrong shape: the shoulders of the bit that pushes in were not sloped enough. (exaggerate: should have a triangle tip, not a square tip)

It was just enough to prevent contact being made with the tip.

# ¿ Apr 20, 2015 21:04

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

1500quidporsche posted:

Stupid question here:

Been driving my "new" van (86 GMC Safari) around a few days, I've notice in addition to the usual warning symbols on the control panel there is also this:

I know its the choke symbol but I've got no clue what its function is on my van since to my knowledge it doesn't have any choke you could operate. The owner's manual says nothing about it. Any ideas what purpose it would serve?

I don't know US vehicles, so this is a guess:

You have a carb and it has an automatic choke. This light is to show you that the choke is on (cold start). Turns on when you start in the cold weather, turns off after a couple of minutes when the carb is warm enough for the engine to run without choke.

I think you guys call it a 'choke pull off'

# ¿ Apr 28, 2015 08:15

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

Sweevo posted:

Or possibly they used an instrument cluster from another model which has a choke, and if your van doesn't then it's just an unused light that isn't connected to anything.

That was my first thought: but wouldn't a vehicle of that age have a carb and so must have a choke?

# ¿ Apr 28, 2015 14:14

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

1500quidporsche posted:

Took a second look and given that there is also an upshift light on an automatic transmission I'm going with this theory. Probably left over from the model years that had carbs instead of TBI.

Do you have carbs or EFI?

(but as long as it works, who cares?)

# ¿ Apr 28, 2015 17:55

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

DesperateDan posted:

Yep, always called em dustcaps before, though valve stem covers is a bit more descriptive.

Never heard of them before - now I look, they seem a right pain in the arse to use.

If you are frequent pressure-checker, they are fiddly.

If you are an infrequent checker, I wouldn't be surprised if they seize up

# ¿ May 10, 2015 19:51

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

IOwnCalculus posted:

One of my uncles has a Yamaha inverter generator that is drat near silent, quite small, and puts out very clean power. Only problem is last I looked it was over $1k and that's for a ~2kW model.

Perhaps batteries + solar panel?

http://www.batterystuff.com/kb/tools/calculator-sizing-a-battery-to-a-load.html

You can do the sums here, to see how many batteries you will need.

I bet that fan will be sucking a load of juice.

# ¿ May 11, 2015 16:22

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

Elendil004 posted:

Per thread recommendations on getting my 2015 Fit to stop trying to connect to my smartphone (which causes lag when playing music and renders the screen inoperable), I tired a usb condom. That works for about 5 minutes then I get an error on the car screen "there is a problem with the usb connected device see owners manual"which doesn't help.

Could the car not be providing at least 1A of power to the usb ports?

Surely you don't need power if the phone is charged?

# ¿ May 16, 2015 22:58

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

Astonishing Wang posted:

The Tribute was the same as the Ford Escape, right? There are a ton of those on the road still, not that that means much I guess.

Yes.

Family member had one. Can't say it excited me, but can't say it was a hunk of junk either.

Got through a few ABS sensor rings and the alloys corroded really badly.

IOwnCalculus posted:

At $1500 it's hard to hate much of anything if it reliably gets you from A to B and back. At $1500 plus six weeks to decide if you actually like it? Really, really hard to say no to that if the Tribute is at all what you're looking for.

This. If it worked, I'd be happy enough with it for that price.

# ¿ Jun 10, 2015 21:59

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

InitialDave posted:

I think what we're saying it, it isn't the greatest SUV in the world...

What was that whooshing sound above my head?

Slavvy posted:

It's just a tribute.

Ah. Thank you.

# ¿ Jun 11, 2015 08:23

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

IOwnCalculus posted:

Couldn't remember the greatest SUV in the world.

Thanks to this place, I can never hear this song without thinking it is missing a '.avi' at the end.

# ¿ Jun 11, 2015 22:37

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

Enourmo posted:

The caliper is most likely not coated and the drum may or may not have anti-rust shipping oil (which you should be cleaning off with brake cleaner anyway as it soaks into the shoes and makes the brakes less effective), but the only parts that rust will be non-working surfaces; the rotors and drums will get swept clean each time you apply the brakes. (This also means paint would get scraped off those parts so you'll get overnight surface rust regardless.)

Paint them if you like the way they look, but it's hardly critical.

Also: I'd mask off the face of the drum where the wheel butts up against it around the lugs, paint on there could cause the wheel to sit slightly off vertical like if there was rust buildup there. Super minor nitpicking, but there you go.

Any recommendations on what type of paint to use on the hubs?

I'd prefer something I can brush on, if possible.

# ¿ Jun 16, 2015 17:18

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

Geoj posted:

Do you mean calipers/drums? You really shouldn't paint the hubs...

Lately I've taken to using spray-on bedliner out of a rattle can. Flat black and much more resilient than most paint.

It's the only tatty area on an otherwise surprisingly mint car.

Ideally it would be something that dries quite quickly, since the work will have to be done in a community car park and I don't want to leave it up on stands/jack unattended.

# ¿ Jun 17, 2015 19:18

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

Geoj posted:

You're going to have to clean that up before you can paint them. If you cover up the rust it will just continue to spread. Realistically I'd suggest completely removing the calipers and brackets so you can wire wheel them down to shiny bare metal before priming and painting.

Dammit, you are telling me what I know in my heart is the right thing to do, but I don't have the facilties to do it myself. Which either means a half-assed job myself, or paying a garage where it would probably cost a similar price to getting the rusty bits replaced with new parts.

Might go down the route of a wire brush and rust converter (naval jelly) and brushed paint. Then drive very hard for the next few thousand miles and try to wear all my braking components out.

# ¿ Jun 19, 2015 09:51

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

Krakkles posted:

Sounds like you're a thinking car battery.

OP, I've had good luck with putting significant pressure on a screwdriver and turning slowly. If you want to be able to put more (enough) pressure, place the remote on a somewhat soft surface, like a towel on a table.

As for where to get a replacement - I'd think auto part stores would stock them, or maybe Amazon?

http://www.amazon.com/Buttons-Remote-Shell-Lexus-Inside/dp/B005PSPD22

If that's the replacement casing, I'd be tempted just to drill out the busted screw with a tiny drill bit.

# ¿ Jul 13, 2015 12:14

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

I'm planning on taking the wheel off my Saab to give the hubs a de-rusting.

Obviously, using the saab scissor jack is a shortcut to a sore wrist and potentially a car on the foot, so I am looking for a trolley jack.

Would you feel comfortable with just the jack and the wheel on its side under the sill, or should I get axle stands as well?

spog fucked around with this message at 17:24 on Jul 21, 2015

# ¿ Jul 21, 2015 17:22

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

Astonishing Wang posted:

Always use stands. If you don't have a stand, use one anyway.

You make a good point.

I was trying to avoid the extra cost/storage space. Now I find that I can get a reputable brand for �13, so I would be a moron not to get them, even if I ebay/throw them away afterwards.

Short wheelbase trolley jack? Okay?

http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel/tools-diy/trolley-jacks-axle-stands/halfords-2-tonne-trolley-jack-short-wheel-base
http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel/tools-diy/trolley-jacks-axle-stands/halfords-2-tonne-trolley-jack

EDIT: Answering my own question here:
SWB one has a Lifting range 14 - 34cm (Approx)
Standard is Lifting range 13-38cm (Approx)

given that the axle stands have a min height of 30cm, that extra 4cm of lift seems worth it.
http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel/tools-diy/trolley-jacks-axle-stands/halfords-2-tonne-axle-stands

spog fucked around with this message at 17:46 on Jul 21, 2015

# ¿ Jul 21, 2015 17:31

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

BadSamaritan posted:

My apologies if this isn't the right thread for this, but it's my first time buying a car from a non-craigslist source and I don't know what counts as normal. Unfortunately it's for a car <$10k so the dealerships don't seem to care much.

I ran into a group of sales guys earler today who won't give me a firm number as to the APR for the financing and I think that is a dick move. They said it would take a while to run the numbers and I should either move on it or ~take my chances~ and wait until tomorrow.

Am I right in just walking away from this bs or is it a reasonable delay for a credit check? I'm just surprised because I thought it was a decently respected dealership but I don't really want to give them money if they're jerking me around like I suspect they are.

You know what your gut tells you.

# ¿ Jul 25, 2015 00:29

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

TwoFire posted:

I just bought a 2006 SAAB. Where do I go for SAAB questions?

The very quiet Saab thread?

http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3232133

# ¿ Jul 26, 2015 22:29

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

EightBit posted:

While I imagine that there is some badge-engineering going on for parts, in my experience, it isn't the norm.

Depending on the make and part, OEM might be crap-tier while aftermarket stuff might be better, but that varies wildly across the industry.

It is definitely a faux pas to bring your own parts to a mechanic, especially if you're expecting a warranty on work. Some mechanics may make a markup on parts, but mostly they stick to their suppliers so they can make warranty claims on parts, too.

I find that my mechanics can generally find a third-party part for about the same price that I can (excluding ebay crap).

Plus if anything goes wrong with the part (defective, wrong version, design flaw) then it's not my problem. That's worth it for me

# ¿ Jul 30, 2015 17:08

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

Xequecal posted:

No, it doesnt specify which tire is low. Could the sensor burn out from going on and off so many times over the course of a year? I've been reinflating the tire every two weeks or so, it seems to lose like 5 psi per week.

If you are pumping in 5psi every week then either you've got a slow leak, or you are currently driving around on a tyre the size of a zeppelin

# ¿ Aug 6, 2015 08:06

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

FogHelmut posted:

I'm going on a 12 day 4000 mile trip in two weeks. Should I do anything special to be prepared?

I'm driving a 2012 Subaru Impreza. I'm already doing an oil change before I go, and thinking of putting in fresh headlights since they're the original bulbs. I have some basic hand tools, a tire plug kit, jumper cables, and a blanket that I keep in there all the time. Tires and brakes are good.

Breakdown coverage.

# ¿ Aug 12, 2015 13:21

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

FogHelmut posted:

I got roadside assistance with AAA, Subaru, and Liberty Mutual.

Tyre compressor
Decent tyre wrench
Might want to give it a wash and wax before you go

# ¿ Aug 12, 2015 15:09

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

When you do get rid of it, look forward to seeing it for sale somewhere, listed as 'excellent condition'

# ¿ Aug 28, 2015 15:38

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

flyboi posted:

I asked Progressive if I should drive it and they said that if it works that it was ok and to check if it functioned. Engine sounded fine, only the exhaust got water in it.

In some ways, I can see the sense in deliberately hydralocking it, to make sure it is written-off. As it's been pointed it, that car will never be good again, no matter what they do.

Even to the point of pouring a bucket of flood water down the air intake.

# ¿ Aug 28, 2015 17:25

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

EightBit posted:

He's following the typical goon-asking-for-advice scenario to a tee, though.

He's already in a well full of piss.

# ¿ Aug 28, 2015 19:14

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

flyboi posted:

According to Progressive it has an extremely high likelihood of being considered a total loss due to the water line and the description about the electronics acting fucky. They towed it away to my dealer and Progressive is setting up some triage booth there to inspect cars on Monday. Should hear the news then.

CharlieWhiskey posted:

When you speak with insurance/whoever point out the fact that the water in the area was contaminated with garbage (as evident from the pictures), possibly human waste, making the water in vehicle biohazardous.

Don't forget to specifically mention this point.

# ¿ Aug 28, 2015 23:10

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

flyboi posted:

Insurance update time! Got a call, they started the car and noted it started fine and were reading off what they were going to do to fix the car and my heart started to sink realizing I was likely going to be stuck with the car. Thanks to CharlieWhiskey I cut her off while talking about the repairs on electronics/interior and mentioned that there was floating garbage and our garbage collection for our building is in the same room. It was most definitely going to have sewage in the water as we have pets in our building and for example I throw my cats waste in there so vv

She's now getting manage approval to total the car out

Edit: Got a call back, it's a total loss. Now the joy of finding a new car when there's nothing in town that fits what I want

Told you to listen to CharlieWhiskey!

# ¿ Aug 31, 2015 20:00

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# ¿ May 3, 2024 04:31

spog: Aug 7, 2004; It's your own bloody fault.

CharlieWhiskey posted:

Yay I spotted garbage at the right time

I reckon he owes you a beer.

Or at least a crown with the slogan 'champion poo poo-spotter'

# ¿ Aug 31, 2015 23:19

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

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