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mcustic posted:I own a 2007 Ford Fiesta 1.25 Duratec (I'm in Europe obviously) with something like 80k km on the clock. Last night, after half an hour of driving and another ten minutes idling, I started driving again and heard a loud pop. Soon after that I noticed my temperature indicator was way in the red. Stopped the engine for ten minutes, turned it on, it went back to normal, so I drove a few more km, it overheated again, pause, repeat... Made it back home. Checked the coolant fluid, the tank is completely empty. Cooling system hose blown off somewhere.
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Sep 5, 2015 10:59
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mcustic posted:Thanks. Tried pouring water into the system to see what's up, it just drained from the bottom of the engine as fast as I was able to pour. Could be an easy fix with just reattaching the hose and retightening. Check your radiator fan. I've got a suspicion that it doesn't work You drive around and get the engine nice and warm, but natural airflow keeps it from getting too hot. You sit for 10mins, them drive a few km through town, so you already hot engine doesn't get enough airflow, the fan doesn't kick in, so the coolant gets too hot, the pressure rises and a manky hose connection fails.
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Sep 5, 2015 11:57
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BobbyRhino posted:I cleaned all the coil/boot connections on my 2004 f-150 4.6 and went totally apeshit with the dialectric grease. I put it in both ends of the boot and also in the plug that connects the coils to the wiring harness. Could this be the reason the truck is misfiring like crazy now? You've filled an electrical plug with non-conductive grease. I'd want to clean that out.
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Sep 9, 2015 08:40
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Xealot posted:^^^ What I've read suggests CNG vehicles produce around 2/3 the CO2 of conventional gasoline engines, give or take based on the specifics of the engine and usage. But that could easily be a sanitized figure from an interested party, so I can't say. Can't help you with CNG, but I have an LPG conversion in my Saab convertible, here in the UK I've got a 45litre tank that sits in my full-sized spare wheel well. I suspect that converting a Z3 will use up an awful lot of your boot space.
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Sep 14, 2015 08:15
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Enourmo posted:Like, no crank, hook up cables, starts fine with jump seconds later. And I doubt it's vapor lock, usually that makes a car crank fine but wont catch. I'd be thinking Crankshaft Position Sensor as a culprit, rather than a battery.
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Sep 15, 2015 17:29
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IOwnCalculus posted:I'd say dead battery caused by a dead alternator if it won't stay running after a jump. Ah, yes, this sounds like a very good diagnosis. That's why you're the brains of the group.
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Sep 15, 2015 22:50
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Speaking of which. Driving at 70mph, I ran clean over a large metal lump (I started to think about a sudden change of direction, but by the time I remembered that the Saab did successfully pass the elk test, it was too late) About the size of half a house brick and lumpy and I went clean over it with the low-pros and it made a heck of a thump. No visible damage apart from a couple of small chunks that look like you could squeeze the top of a pencil in them. Drives fine. Proof that cars are stronger than you imagine or a ticking time bomb till a blowout?
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Sep 22, 2015 13:05
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Git Mah Belt Son posted:I'd make sure to check both the outside and inside of the tire for bubbles. A lot of people look on the outside but don't check the inside. A bubble is definitely a time bomb waiting to go off. Do you mean both external sidewalls, or have the tyre removed from the rim and checked on the inside?
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Sep 22, 2015 22:04
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Git Mah Belt Son posted:I'd make sure to check both the outside and inside of the tire for bubbles. A lot of people look on the outside but don't check the inside. A bubble is definitely a time bomb waiting to go off. spog posted:Do you mean both external sidewalls, or have the tyre removed from the rim and checked on the inside? Of course, now I have sobered up, I realise that getting a bubble inside a tyre is an indication of much serious problems than a mere debris hit. (i.e. I have a vacuum in my tyre)
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Sep 23, 2015 09:10
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Krakkles posted:If you have a vacuum in your tire, the entire structure of the tire would be collapsed. I meant that the laws of physics have gone a bit wrong. EDIT Sorry if wasn't clear that I was being facetious about my previous stupidity spog fucked around with this message at 14:37 on Sep 23, 2015 |
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Sep 23, 2015 14:30
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What's the current on gasoline/petrol going stale? My LPG car sips petrol at start-up - I'm using about half a tank in 6 months and a couple of gallons of that were when I ran out of LPG. Should I be making an effort to burn up some more, just to make sure the stuff in there is fresh enough?
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Oct 1, 2015 14:56
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Imagined posted:This is a very stupid question, hence the thread. On 'Top Gear' they had the segment 'Star In A Reasonably Priced Car'. Occasionally they'd get a Formula 1 driver, and those had their own leaderboard. On the Suzuki Liana, the fastest civilian got a 144.4, which is the same time as The Stig's best time in that car. The top five Formula 1 drivers are all faster than that, in the same car. Interesting to see that White Stig was 1.6s faster than Black Stig.
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Oct 7, 2015 19:51
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InitialDave posted:Check for rust, rust, RUST, loving RUST on the chassis and the bulkhead, and base your offer on that set against your welding ability. I have no idea what values are like where you are. You want to listen to this man like a Dr about to give you your test results.
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Oct 9, 2015 21:49
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bennyfactor posted:🎵Doctor doctor gimme the news / You need to get under there. Try to poke a screwdriver through the chassis. If it's rotten, run away. you also need to check the bulkhead itself, espec near the top- not the floorpan
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Oct 10, 2015 13:32
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Motronic posted:Have fun sourcing a new bulkhead. Unless someone else started making them again. We can get them *new* here In fact, I think you can probably get every single component new here. Landrover owners are nuts like that. Whether you'd want to is another matter. Replacing the chassis/bulkhead takes them from 'repair it with a hammer and baling wire' to 'strip it all down in a shed, look at it for 2 years, sell it as a "project vehicle"'
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Oct 10, 2015 22:41
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Fo3 posted:Of course you may have a dodgey 12v-5v converter. I wouldn't be surprised if it only outputs 500mA and lies about the specs. I'd put my multimeter on it and see
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Oct 12, 2015 15:01
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bennyfactor posted:Thanks to you and InitialDave and Motronic (and CSB in the chat room) for advice on this — I got underneath it before the auction started today and the front body outriggers are completely gone. Still got way outbid, thing went for $3000. Can't imagine it's actually worth that much in its current state. Happy to help you avoid making a mistake. InitialDave posted:It probably isn't. What do you reckon? $1,000 with a reasonable chassis/bulkhead? and that is taking into account the rarity in the US.
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Oct 13, 2015 20:32
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lwoodio posted:If he doesn't have air tools just get a tire inflator. Much more compact and can run off the car battery. I recently bought a digital one of those (automatically fills to the chosen pressure) for the first time and holy hell I wish I had bought one before.
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Oct 18, 2015 20:42
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The Rev posted:Got a Link/Name? Thanks in Advance! http://www.amazon.co.uk/Ring-Automo...l+tyre+inflator Probably find something similar in your country Good bits: Preset pressure mode with automatic cut off, allows you to easily store your car tyre pressure Red light for SOS and white light for night time illumination, helping you to inflate your tyre on the roadside in the dark Includes a handy storage case, allowing you to safely store the compressor in your boot when not in use Long cable Not so good: Screw connector instead of thumb lever (not a major hassle) Just be aware that these things aren't meant for fully inflating all 5 tyres in a single session. It will take ages and it will probably hit the thermal cut-off. But for topping off tyres by a few PSI, brilliant.
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Oct 19, 2015 16:46
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Saukkis posted:Has anyone tried Rain-X style products with side windows and mirrors? The wipers take care of the wind screen, but the side windows covered in droplets is annoying when I leave for work and I can't be bothered to wipe them. I've tried an Autoglym product and I can't say it works particularly well on side mirrors. OTOH, it's trivial to apply, won't fcuk-up your washbottle (hello VW) so why not use it anyway?
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Oct 31, 2015 00:23
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IllegallySober posted:Well, the previous owner had put an after-market exhaust system on there so to be fair it's loud all the time. Not quite one of those coffee-can exhaust systems, it's quieter than that, but still. They just didn't seem like they really knew what to do with it at all. I might take it to a different emissions location and see if they can get a reading. Take it to any vaguely competent mechanic in your local area and he'll be able to tell you what the problem is (e.g. a hole in the exhaust) and probably show you. You can take a photo, post it here and get a second opinion.
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Nov 1, 2015 23:09
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Motronic posted:I just dumped 13 gallons at the Advance near me. They laughed, but didn't give a poo poo. (I should really bring it in more frequently) Don't they earn money from the used oil? i.e. the recycling company gives them cash for it.
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Nov 12, 2015 16:57
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Could be a master/slave cylinder fail. As you slammed on the brakes, they've been pushed much harder than they have been during the previous years of driving.
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Nov 17, 2015 10:20
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 Car roof covers: good or bad idea? I was thinking of getting one for my Saab soft-top for the British Winter. Keep bird poo poo and snow off it when I don't use it for a couple of days Or is trapping water under it a really bad idea and I should just give it lots more water-proofing spray and get a windscreen cover to stop ice?
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Nov 22, 2015 11:57
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Do I win a prize?
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Nov 24, 2015 00:14
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spog posted:
No-one got any thoughts on whether this is a good/bad idea?
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Nov 25, 2015 10:10
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ICHIBAHN posted:Hello, I have a question: I'm driving a Peugeut 207 Access which doesn't have Bluetooth support. My iPhone is a bit beat up, the lightening pin reciever is unreliable so listening to music through the lightening cable isn't great. Is there anything I can buy to have my car speakers pick up my phone's bluetooth signal to play my music wirelessly? Cheers mes enfants. quote:The auxiliary RCA audio connector located in the glove box also lets you listen to mobile audio equipment Do you have one of those?
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Nov 26, 2015 10:45
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blk posted:Whine from engine compartment of Saabaru for about 5 minutes on cold start. I assume it's the alternator as it gets louder with throttle. Bearings wearing out? It's weird because it started happening around the same time I had a (reputable) shop do the timing belt; I think they did the accessory belts at the same time but I don't see how that'd cause any trouble. I bet if you were to record a video with your fancy smartphone, someone here could give you a great answer.
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Nov 30, 2015 18:06
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'Tan' aka 'baby-poo poo brown'
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Dec 1, 2015 15:19
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SlayVus posted:How often should I replace the battery in my vehicle? I understand they wear out eventually. It's fairly trivial to test for battery drain with a multi-meter. Heck, you could just pull fuses at random each night and see if one solves the problem
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Dec 16, 2015 12:53
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Voltage posted:So I have to hand in my fiesta st least in a few days so I have to get another car soon. It's a great car butI I don't feel like taking out a $17,000 loan to buy it out, especially when my fiancé has student loans and I still have a few grand in credit card debt I'm trying to rid myself of. I would guess that if things break, it is likely to be stuff like electric frippery that you can live without. If it meant paying off my credit cards a year earlier, I'd quite happily live with a car where the electric heated seats don't work.
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Dec 24, 2015 22:19
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Can you guys recommend a cheap manual car or truck? I've never learned how to drive a manual so I want to get something to beat up on and learn A hire car for the weekend.
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Dec 27, 2015 23:02
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Melthir posted:Hi UK AI Goons. I have recently got orders to the UK and will be moving from Alaska. Have a 2005 subaru legacy gt with Cobb set up. Its in good shape and runs well. What do I need to do to get my car UK compliant? How much of a pain is it? Have any of you guys imported a car before? https://www.gov.uk/importing-vehicles-into-the-uk/overview http://classics.honestjohn.co.uk/insurance/articles/how-to-import-a-classic-car/ quote:If you’re importing a car from outside the European Union (EU), you will need to pay a duty of 10 per cent on the car’s value, plus shipping costs. If the car you’re looking to buy cost you £5000 and shipping a further £1000 on top of that, then you’ll be liable for 10 per cent duty on £6000. On top that, you will pay 17.5 per cent VAT and a customs handling fee of £50, so the total costs for your import will be £6600 +VAT, plus the customs fee – £7805. Given that your car is worth maybe £7k here and will be worth quite a chunk less if you sell it here as the wheel is on the wrong side, this doesn't seem like a great financial option http://www.exchangeandmart.co.uk/used-cars-for-sale/subaru/legacy Plus, driving on the correct side of the road isn't great if you are sitting on the wrong side of the car: our twisty roads and almost all our junctions are going to be become difficult.
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Jan 4, 2016 09:57
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totalnewbie posted:Maybe. Probably not. Plugs are steel with a plating. Similar question from me: I have an '06 Saab that has an aftermarket LPG conversion and it is hard to find definitive answers about anything. Standard plugs are NGK PFR6T-10G (Electrode gap 0.9–1.0 mm) - should I go ahead and just get another set? And does LPG have any negative/positive affects on spark plug wear?
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Jan 14, 2016 10:43
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What about getting poked in the eye by the pointy end of a kayak?
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Jan 27, 2016 10:21
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Check whether it is equipped with a gun rack or a maple syrup dispenser.
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Jan 28, 2016 08:04
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When I've done a flush on an old engine in the past, the water hose ran dirty for a long time. Longer than I'd have been able to flush with anything other than a hose.
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Mar 8, 2016 22:00
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White Noise Marine posted:2014 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4, v8 5.7L hemi. There's probably a process that you need to go through to re-sync your fob with the car.
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Mar 22, 2016 07:07
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White Noise Marine posted:Everything I've read said they don't need to be reprogrammed, at least for just a battery switch. Re-sync or reprogrammed? Cause if you had a dying battery, I can imagine you triggering it enough times to get it out of sync while trying to unlock the doors It's usually something like start the car with the key, then press the unlock button
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Mar 22, 2016 18:42
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White Noise Marine posted:Battery replacement and resyncing worked on the other key fob, thanks for the help guys. Pleased to hear it. Now open up the first fob and refit the battery that you inserted backwards.
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Mar 25, 2016 01:37
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