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Pinhole leak at this location... will a shop patch it or tell me it is too close to the sidewall? About 1.75" in.
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Feb 22, 2015 04:10
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Bovril Delight posted:Should be able to be patched, doesn't hit the shoulder. NTB (Discount Tire is closed Sunday) wouldn't touch it because it wasn't within the circumferential tread lines. The local sketchy used tire shop however was more than happy to put a patch/plug combo on it. Cost too much because sketchy used tire shop but still a hell of a lot cheaper than a new tire. Especially because as far as I can tell this model of tire is only presently stocked at Honda dealers and I'd hate to see what they would charge.
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Feb 22, 2015 21:31
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My wife's '09 Civic LX has a jacked up A/C which of course made itself known in a traffic jam on I35 in 105 heat index weather. Figured it was low on refrigerant again due to a very slow leak, but our mechanic noted it was acting fucky once properly charged at idle - when revved the high side pressure shoots way too high and the low side pressure drops way too low. It cools quite well so we're thinking a clogged expansion valve is to blame, not a clogged evaporator coil. My gut instinct tells me that just replacing the expansion valve would be a dumb idea as whatever source of stuff that clogged the old one will still be in the system and will quickly clog the new one. Is that right? Silver lining - we found the leak thanks to the dye injected two years ago  .
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Jun 11, 2018 22:59
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Enourmo posted:Depends. Static orifice tubes usually fail by getting clogged with metal when a compressor dies; they're a simple tube, not many other ways they can fail. You are right. It is an expansion valve and not an orifice tube, I was mixing them up and thought it was failing due to the screen getting clogged. There actually being a moving mechanical bit which could just be jammed actually makes me more hopeful that just swapping the valve might fix it. Seems like the system will need at minimum the expansion valve, dryer, and o-ring on where the low pressure hose connects to the evaporator outlet tube penetrating the firewall (that connection is where the slow leak is). Unfortunately I'll be having someone else work on it because a) I don't have much experience with A/C work and more importantly b) it is like 120°F in my garage and gently caress that.
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Jun 12, 2018 03:12
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Fo3 posted:When I was in HVAC common knowledge was a blocked expansion valve doesn't cause overly high condensing pressures unless overcharged to compensate low suction pressures. Reason is there's a finite charge in a properly charged system and the gas has extra time to chill and subcool in the condenser - no more vapour coming in from the low side to add and extra pressure/volume, just gas on the high side getting cooler so pressures shouldn't go up. Turns out your common knowledge was right and problem wasn't with the TXV or A/C system at all but with the mechanic, who overcharged it refilling the refrigerant lost to the slow leak. Second mechanic I found via word of mouth and online recommendations recovered enough refrigerant (nearly 8oz!) to bring the system back to balance and it now seems to work fine. He refused to take any payment until I drove it for at least a month and it didn't act up. I think the first mechanic probably just needs to formally retire. Just one more example of why to do your own work if possible I guess.
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Jun 14, 2018 15:47
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Uh I think I might have solved the Ram mystery. I found this post looking for info about where to check the field voltage and it seems like it might be showing exactly the bodge-job that your van had attempted on it. The little "we suspect this thing" you posted earlier is the original field coil connector:  Putting voltage in those pins is what actually turns on the alternator and controls the output. If the ECU voltage regulator isn't working or the harness has a break those two pins should not be connected and instead the new voltage regulator should be connected there. Check the voltage across those pins while the engine is running - I bet it is 0 or close to it. and the post has this note: "DOWNSIDE TO THIS MOD__ The only downside is that after doing this, your check engine light will stay on since it has no signal from the alt. There is no way I know of to prevent this, but someone here might have an idea. If that is an issue to you, then this conversion may not be for you!"
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Jun 18, 2018 16:04
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Javid posted:If that were the case wouldn't it have never worked with the external reg? This thing worked until it didn't. Intermittent failure in the ECU or the original problem was a bad connection that got inadvertently fixed by the PO loving around with the wiring while improperly installing the external regulator? I mean I've had stuff where I disassembled it looking for the problem, didn't find anything, and then have it work flawlessly upon reassembly so it could happen. In any case checking the field winding voltage while running would be very useful to help isolate the issue. You could also try isolating the regular harness and directly attaching the external regulator to the field coil like in that post and at least see if that causes the system to jump to the proper ~14V output.
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Jun 18, 2018 19:14
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Right, measure the voltage between those two posts. It might help to explain a bit of how the voltage control system is a car works: To generate electricity you need to spin a loop of wire in a magnetic field or spin a magnet inside a loop of wire (generally easier because then you don't have to pull a ton of power from a spinning object). The alternators in cars don't actually have any permanent magnets in them, instead they have a spinning electromagnet called the field coil. The amount of voltage/current you supply to that electromagnet controls the strength of the magnetic field which controls the amount of power the alternator produces. Controlling that electromagnet is how the voltage regulator controls the voltage in the system. So if you check the voltage at those terminals you will see if the signal to turn on the alternator is getting to the alternator itself.  It's hard to tell what they mean by that dashed line but it seems like on the connector pins 1 and 2 are the field coil, pin 4 is connected to ground and the longer line goes to pin 3. According to the diagram it appears as though there should be another line running from the other terminal of the alternator, through a fusible link, and back to the place where all the other positive lines branch off. It should be a nice fat wire too because it will be carrying a lot of current. I guess it is possible that last line off the field coil connector is it, but that seems odd. Maybe check the voltage between ground and that last terminal too.
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Jun 18, 2018 21:52
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0V across the field terminals explains why there is no charging, them reading 11.5V to ground means it is most likely on the ground side of things.shy boy from chess club posted:Shouldn't the field terminals 1 and 2 each have a wire going to them? One to the single board module and the other to whatever J2 (splice) is, one setup for the 5.9 and the other dashed line for the 3.9 and 5.2? Where the wires would have a ring connector on the end? It would make sense that the module would be attached to the field to control the output of the alternator. Not sure what that splice is but maybe there are 2 wires either missing or more likely going to the wrong place somewhere. Looks like a lovely diagram and it just isn't drawing the wires coming off the alternator harness connector. Looking online J2 is most likely just the switched ignition power or connected to the auto shutdown relay and is the +12V source, and the computer controls the alternator by controlling the path to ground via terminal 1 which goes to pin B20 on the computer connector. That points to a bad wire in the harness, bad connector, or bad computer. You can check the first two by pulling the connector from the computer and checking the resistance between pin 20 and terminal 1 of the alternator connector. It should be an ohm or two. If it is the computer then  I guess you'd have to decide if the check engine light bugs you enough to not use an external voltage regulator.
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Jun 19, 2018 01:32
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Something is fucky with that explanation on the brakes, a disc brake is basically polishing the rotor every stop so rust should never build up if used semi-regularly. You need at the very least a second opinion.
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Jun 19, 2018 03:07
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Javid posted:$1500 for brakes is pretty much "lol dealer" pricing. Sounds like they already spliced the regulator into the wiring harness, so yay you can ignore the connector on the computer. Basically the positive coming into the regulator should also be connected to one of the field terminals, and the other field terminal should be connected to the other pin of the regulator. Like this:  To find out which is which switch your DMM into 1x ohms mode and measure the resistance between one pin and each of the ring terminals- the one it is directly connected to will be within an ohm zero and the other will be about 5-6ohms higher because the measurement current has to also go through the field windings. The other pin should be hooked up opposite the first. Check the wiring on the second pin, the one to the lower right of the regulator connector. It might be loose and unable to provide a good path to ground for the field current and that would explain both of the ring terminals reading ~11.5V to ground. Maybe redo that crimp connector, those things love to corrode and made a bad connection. That wire going into the relay is probably hooked into the ignition at some point so the regulator gets power when the key is on. WTF is with the loose wires just running everywhere? I wonder if the van needs it's own thread at this point. Or an exorcist.
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Jun 19, 2018 03:46
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Javid posted:I think I already did what you're outlining - but I just took the plug off so it wasn't hooked to the field coil and checked for continuity. Top/white wire out of the reg goes to the right side ring on the plug, bottom/green wire goes to left side ring, neither has continuity with the opposite one. Wait... no continuity at all? They should read about 6ohms or so between them due to being connected to each other via the field coil of the alternator. If you take the DMM on resistance 1x mode and put it on those two terminals of the weird black connector you should get about 5-6ohms. The proper connector makes life easier but isn't super essential when you are still troubleshooting.
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Jun 19, 2018 04:50
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Whew. I was concerned I might have hit on something with the exorcist.
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Jun 19, 2018 04:56
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It is possible for electrical connections to fail in all sorts of crazy ways, that's why working on and troubleshooting electrical issues is by far the most frustrating part of car maintenance. I suspect that the blue wire running to the relay is supposed to be switched according to the ignition so that it turns the relay on when the ignition is on and off when off (otherwise the regulator would run down the battery attempting to feed current through the field coil). It really just seems like the regulator isn't getting any power thanks to whatever strange circuit they were using to turn it on failing somewhere. If you haven't found the failure by the time it gets to the mechanic it might be best to just stop the goose chase and have them run a new power wire to the regulator from some known working switched on with the ignition source. Edit: wait bypassing the relay and directly powering the regulator from battery+ did nothing? Huh.
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Jun 20, 2018 04:47
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Javid posted:I am not qualified to draw a circuit diagram. First: drat good diagram. Second: Oh god that relay wiring  I have no idea how that is supposed to work. Here's what it "should" be: If you keep the relay:  The relay is just a switch, controlled by putting 12V across the two smaller controlling wires. If you "steal" power from another ignition-switched relay:  Note you can test this configuration by just straight wiring it into unswitched 12V. Red: +12V Green: Ground Blue: between 12V and ground, controlled by regulator Sorry to anyone who is r/g colorblind and to everyone else having to see my lovely hand-drawn diagrams. I would highly recommend the second configuration for the sake of simplicity and ease of testing, as long as you put a fuse on that line to the source of power. The regulator and coil should never draw more than ~3A (coil resistance is around 5-6ohm) so it won't present much of a load to the tapped relay and a 10A fuse would be sufficient. Actually putting a fuse between the alternator+ terminal and the relay would be a drat good idea too because in the case of a short that fat cable is more than capable of delivering enough amperage to turn the wires leading to the relay/regulator/coil red hot and start a fire. Remember all the regulator is doing is controlling the path between one terminal of the field coil and ground. The other pin of the field coil needs to be powered off switched +12V to give a source of power for that circuit, and the other pin of the regulator needs to have switched 12V to power the electronics inside of it. Edit: it is possible that the regulator got toasted at some point if that supply circuit was doing strange things. The circuit inside is really simple and pretty robust, but not invincible. Shifty Pony fucked around with this message at 13:07 on Jun 20, 2018 |
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Jun 20, 2018 13:02
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Deteriorata posted:Never cheap out on tires. They're the only part of your car that actually contacts the road. You obviously don't need high-performance tires, but you can get some decent tires for not much if you do a bit of shopping. They also have Discount Tire in Albuquerque. I'm not sure why you'd go anywhere else.
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Jun 20, 2018 18:09
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Yeah there is no way that wouldn't work unless you've got a bum regulator or a bum alternator. You can test the later by hooking up the voltage meter across the battery where you can see it and taking the blue wire that goes to the regulator and putting it to ground for a few seconds - if the alternator is working you'll hear the engine load up a bit and the voltage on the battery should jump to 13 or 14V.
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Jun 21, 2018 04:59
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Javid posted:It was a decently fancy tester, it printed out a whole sheet of numbers that I didn't really read beyond "good", which I probably haven't thrown out and will look for here. I would assume their machine is thorough but gently caress, at this point. The only thing I could think of other than the alternator being bad would be the fusible link connecting it to the battery having blown at some point. I think you already checked this but with the battery and alternator harness disconnected check the continuity/resistance between the terminal that connects to the alternator output and the positive battery clamp.
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Jun 21, 2018 14:52
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How often will you be swapping the battery pack and how much room do you have? If it is a one time thing and you have room maybe dig a 20"-30" deep trench with some plywood as a "floor" and push the truck over it? Even if you pay someone else to dig it then fill it in after it will be cheaper than any lift solution. Just don't get in the trench yourself (motorcycle jack only) and don't attempt to lift the truck any when doing so since jack stands and even ramps on soil is a deadly combination. Why yes I did indeed grow up on a farm in the middle of nowhere... how did you guess? Edit: Javid posted:
Oh god that gives me flashbacks. Tailgating at a football game, battery/charging light lit up right when I pulled in. I had time to kill post game and a DMM in the truck but couldn't find a problem and out of frustration I smacked the alternator with a hammer. That fixed it for years. Sorry I cursed your alternator is what I'm saying. Shifty Pony fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Jun 21, 2018 |
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Jun 21, 2018 22:44
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JESUS TITTYFUCKING CHRIST
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Oh thank god. None of what you did was unnecessary though, that all needed to be cleaned up and required or it would have failed at the worst of times because cars are vindictive like that.
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Jun 22, 2018 03:05
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Javid posted:Update: I think I hosed it up. The thing now jumps over 15 volts when running. I ran to shut it off before I noted exactly how many but it was sitting at 15.xx. The 25 yr old ignition switch contacts had too much resistance, so when you pulled 3A for the regulator through it you got a significantly lower voltage on the regulator side. Since the regulator uses the voltage coming into it as the voltage it is trying to control it turned the alternator on hard trying to get the voltage it was seeing up to 14.2V or whatever.
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Jun 23, 2018 02:34
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2019 Accord Hybrid. Replaced a tire due to an unrepairable nail. New tire has 9/32 tread depth, old tires have 6/32. Is there any issue with having the new tire on the rear opposite an older tire until the older tire needs replacement or do I need to replace the opposite tire with a new one?
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Jun 4, 2022 16:52
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