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Panda Time posted:
Also, I'm not sure if other links are frowned upon heavily here, but here are some resources for you. 3rd generation specific. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/82033-3rd-gen-4runner-buyers-guide.html. READ THIS READ THIS TOP TO BOTTOM. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/167629-3rd-gen-faq-tutorials-documentation-reference-v2.html All maintenance/mod threads you could possibly ever need/want. Also FAQs. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/68892-b-m-70268-supercooler-transmission-cooler-install-3rd-gen.html This is the writeup I followed, although I installed it a bit differently. The thought of intentionally bending the fins of my condensor and radiator gave me the willies.
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Feb 9, 2015 17:52
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thank you each for this wisdom.
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So, I've got a bit of an oil leak the 5VZ-FE 4Runner, presumably behind the passenger side valve cover. It's dripping down between the oil pan and the bell-housing. I was initially pretty concerned that it was a rear main seal, but it seems to be coming from further up behind the engine block. There's also a bit forward on the passenger side lower control arm and on the transmission dipstick tube--so I think it's raining from above. It looks like the VC gaskets have been done. It's relatively clean around the valve covers and there are broken tabs on the fuel injector wire harness, suggesting someone's been in there monkeying around. The bolts themselves are notorious for backing out on their own, but the washers are fresh and bolts are all tight. It isn't enough to affect my oil level, at least at the dipstick. I'd prefer not to do a redundant job, but my suspicion is that they did not replace or use any seal packing on the rear camshaft plug. Having said that, it's possible it is still a rear main seal. Is there anything I could look for that would exclude one or the other? I feel like there is fresh oil further up the block than I would expect on a rear main seal leak, but I'm not an expert. Thoughts?
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Feb 19, 2015 01:04
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kastein posted:Idle it, check the oil with it running, if there is foamy oil on the dipstick drain a little out. Is it normal to have a couple of bubbles anytime you check it with the engine running? My level is right on the money (if not 1/4 quart low) and it's got a couple of bubbles when I check it at idle.
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Feb 21, 2015 17:51
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So is the 'synthetic is bad for high mileage vehicles' adage just an old wives' tale, or should I really avoid it? I'm considering switching to synthetic in my old (2000) 4Runner. I have a small oil leak at the camshaft plug at the rear of the valve covers. My plan was to redo them, making sure it was done appropriately, degrease the engine, check for any remaining oil leaks, then make the switch to Mobil 1 or something similar. My father, who worked as an auto mechanic for years in the 70s (and is extraordinarily competent) says its a bad idea because it can cause new oil leaks. Lots of online information says this isn't necessarily true and synthetics will extend the life of the vehicle. There's logic on both sides. What is the conventional wisdom on AI?
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Feb 24, 2015 18:23
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Motronic posted:Yes, it can cause more (not new) oil leaks. So can any quality non-synthetic oil. It just so happens that most if not all synthetic is high quality and therefore has a good detergent package. Yeah, that's sort of my thinking. I'm trying to differentiate between the valve covers and rear main seal at the moment (I'm like 95% sure it's the camshaft plug--fresh oil after the last change on the backside), so I'm going to get to that next week, degrease, watch for new leaks. By that point I should be approaching the next oil change and I can make a decision then. If it's rear main seal I may even go with a slightly heavier weight oil (5w-30 to 10w-30) since I live in the South and we never get below like 10*F, and rarely below 20*F. At least until I make friends with someone that owns a transmission jack.
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Feb 24, 2015 18:38
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Extra posted:That seems like a whole lot of work just to increase the chance of your 15 year old high mileage seals springing leaks costing you extra money and hassle that didn't need to be expended. Oil on the engine prevents rust. Well, the valve cover gaskets and seals probably need to be replaced anyways--and done properly. So those will be done anyways. The swap to synthetic is not a particularly important thing for me, just wondering if it would be possible. I know long term it's better for sludge protection and whatnot, just wanted to explore the risks. Since I live in a warmer environment would switching to heavier weight oil have any ill effects? MPG?
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Feb 24, 2015 23:07
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blk posted:I should probably change the oil on all vehicles today (Saabaru, Miata, Civic). I have an OEM Subaru filter in the closet but nothing on hand for the Miata or Civic and parts counters are closed today. Which aftermarket brand should I get, or does it matter? Are any/most aftermarket filters superior to OEM filters? The Saabaru and Miata get driven hard, if it makes a difference. I used Purolator classics for a long time in a lot of my vehicles with Mobil 1 synthetic. OEM Toyota since then on both my cars (Prius, 3rd gen 4Runner) with really good results. I don't know if all OEM brands are awesome or not, but lots of old Toyota dudes seem to think the OEM is best. Coincidentally it's cheaper than Purolater, so I don't mind stopping by the dealership every couple of months. 
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Mar 2, 2015 01:55
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Slavvy posted:Indeed, some older autos have a temp sensor specifically for it to know when the ATF is warm enough to allow OD to engage. My mother's trooper was like this. My 4Runner does this on cool mornings. Not for long though. I imagine it doesn't take much travel to get it warmed up. I put in a separate trans cooler and re routed away from the radiator anyway, so I'm sure that doesn't help early.
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Mar 2, 2015 23:32
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MomJeans420 posted:My buddy is looking to get a small truck for business use, no need for towing but he wants to be able to store a lot of equipment. He's currently looking at a Toyota Tacoma and a GMC Canyon, and prefers the engine and looks of the Canyon (V6 model). I usually default to Toyota over American cars, but is there anything particularly good or bad about either of them? The Tacoma is a fantastic truck (I've owned two) and will be running long after we are all dead and gone. That's reason enough.
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Mar 15, 2015 21:05
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MomJeans420 posted:Apparently you can get the Tacoma with a manual transmission, but not the Canyon, so that's looking like a pretty decent option. The manual I had, I kind of hated the clutch. Squeaky bushings, wide friction point. Maybe 'hated' is strong, but it drove like a loving Civic, not a truck. I'm not sure if the 6spd is any different--this was on a 4cyl/5spd manual. The V6 has a 6spd manual available. Oh, and the first gear was waaaaaaaay too short. Almost unnecessary. Give it a drive and see if you like it. If I buy another Tacoma i'll test drive the 6spd before I purchase another manual, but I'll avoid the hell out of that 5spd gearbox.
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Mar 16, 2015 15:27
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Picked up a CEL on my 2000 4Runner P0441 "Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow." Cleared it, came back a few days later. I've checked all vacuum hoses to the evap canister and they seem to be in good condition. Gas cap is secure and unimpeded on sealing. Lots of things pointing to an obstruction of the Evap VSV, but I can't find any impedance and it seems to work altogether with all hoses being free of obstruction. Is there anything else I should check before I start tossing parts at it?
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Apr 3, 2015 18:00
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Sentient Data posted:Have you cleaned out the EGR recently? It seems like they can have their own codes for direct failure, but they get clogged up with crap and seem to be the underlying cause of quite a few issues that a lot of people overlook, and other people with P0441 seem to say that a dirty EGR can be a cause No EGR on the 5VZ-FE that I can find in my manuals or anything. Ugh. I'll just have to hit the junkyard tomorrow and try to pick up a used valve so I don't have to spend 120$ on a new one.
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Apr 4, 2015 01:14
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some texas redneck posted:From what I dug up, Purple Power attacks aluminum like nobody's business (which is likely what the fins are made of). I thought Simple Green eats aluminum as well?
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Apr 24, 2015 14:22
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I'm tempted to take a long weekend and do my own timing belt/water pump on my 2000 3.4L V6 4Runner. I'm not terribly mechanically inclined but my dad has a garage, tools and tons of experience where I can make my mistakes. It's a bigger project than just about any I've done before, and it would save me about 4-500$. Talk me out of it.......
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May 5, 2015 18:55
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Neptr posted:First thing is, how mechanically inclined is "not terribly"? The timing belt is the most difficult maintenance item to do (at least in any sensible car) so you should have a little bit of experience changing the coolant, changing accessory belts, and such. I've done all oil changes and tire rotations myself for like 15 years. Brakes, transmission drain/fills, I added a tranny cooler to the truck without issue. I've drained/added coolant. Did a water pump/serpentine with my dad's help on a 94 Bonneville, but that seems like an easier job. The truck is southern with little to no rust (just a cockhair on the hitch receiver). But this: Motronic posted:Besides being a big job, you need to have or make at least two special tools. Once to retract the hydraulic tensioner and one to hold the harmonic balancer in place. is making me lean toward this: VelociBacon posted:I wouldn't do this without someone's help that has experience with them. I'd happily pay $500 for a shop to assume the liability. I know it's a big job and feels a little out of my skill level...but the $770 quote spooked the piss out of me. I also really want to use it as a decent learning experience, but it's my DD..... LeeMajors fucked around with this message at 22:58 on May 5, 2015 |
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May 5, 2015 22:53
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Motronic posted:It really would be, but is doesn't sound like you're quite there yet. Yeah thats done already. Might do tie rod ends and ball joints here soon. I feel more comfortable with those.
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May 6, 2015 01:21
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Enourmo posted:More anecdotes, I've driven an old truck or two as well as my uncle's 66 Mustang with no power steering, not really even noticable aside from the really slow steering gear. My first car was a little red 85 MR2 that was effortless at all speeds without power steering. I found myself preferring the overall feel of a car without power steering. I drove my dads old 94 Isuzu pup for a bit when I was between cars and it was a nightmare at low speeds though. Godholio posted:Newer cars also have much smaller steering wheels, so you have a lot less leverage than on an old 16" steering wheel. I had an accessory belt go out on an F450 ambulance (15k curb weight, thereabouts) and it was an absolute bear to get into a parking lot for towing.
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May 18, 2015 19:33
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To preface: I am very anti-dealership when it comes to repairs/service. BUT, as previously stated I need a timing belt/water pump done on the 5VZ-FE 2000 4Runner. The dealership is 50$ cheaper than the local Toyota/Lexus shop. Normally I would be all over the specialty garage, but are high acuity repairs generally a safer bet with the dealership? Or should I just eat the cost and make it happen with the specialty place? E: For the record, I hate myself for considering this--considering how much I hate the dealership. Just wondering if it's worth considering. Or talk me out of it, please. LeeMajors fucked around with this message at 21:40 on May 20, 2015 |
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May 20, 2015 21:23
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Armchair Calvinist posted:Thanks for the info, guys. Appreciate it! I'll be looking into an '03-'06 automatic I4 Camry then. There's also http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/cto/5005009272.html this down the street (literally) from me and I've heard good things about the generation from 92-96 and it leaves a lot of room for maintenance costs. Opinions? Buy this car. I had a 97 4cyl that I bought with 77k on it, rolled another 140k without giving much thought to OCIs or any routine maintenance with no issues whatsoever. Put several thousand-mile road trips on it. All in about 6 years. They are tanks.
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May 22, 2015 02:28
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Slavvy posted:
I would buy/drive one of those this very second. It's the perfect car. I wish they made a legit Corolla wagon still. The Matrix is goofy as gently caress. BrokenKnucklez posted:The only thing that i have seen kill those mid 90's Toyotas is the tin worm. And if I do ever see one in the yards, they are stripped to the shell... and if the shell is clean, I have seen people chopping parts off the shell to hack together their own jalopy. On the rare occasion I find a 3rd gen 4Runner in the local pick-your-part lot, it is stripped to the frame within a day or two of its arrival.
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May 22, 2015 18:50
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literally this big posted:Would this be the appropriate place to ask about stereo installation? If you are even barely mechanically inclined, go to the crutchfield and order a stereo that fits. Their prices are incredible, they include everything you need to install it along with the wiring harness and instructions. Youtube is your friend if you get stuck. You may need some wire connectors and a wire stripper/crimp tool, but you should have one of those anyways. I just did this very same thing on my 00 4Runner, and it took me an hour from beginning to end. EFB.
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May 27, 2015 22:50
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Enourmo posted:Just a note, yours is the model where the stereo looks like this, right?  You poor bastards. That looks like an unconscionable nightmare.
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May 28, 2015 13:40
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0toShifty posted:My mom's car is a 2000 Toyota Celica GT-S. Yes Detergents break down over time. Like, 12 years ago they broke down.
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Jun 9, 2015 20:11
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My wife is jonesin' for a new RAV4, and I know there are some Toyota-savvy folks here. Any big known issues with 2AR-FE that I should be wary of?
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Jul 14, 2015 20:20
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Subjunctivitis posted:I've looked at 4Runner, Tacoma, and Jeep forums, but those are guys mostly concerned with aggressive tread while car forums, well, don't really care about any off-road stuff. That Michelin gets great reviews from 4Runner guys for highway performance, FWIW. I've got the Latitude Tours on my Runner and they're pretty decent hwy tires. Not sure how they are on anything too offroad--I mostly take mine on sand. Pretty loud on the hwy though. I'll probably do the LTXs next.
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Jul 29, 2015 21:50
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Front shocks on my 00 4Runner are shot--have been since purchase. I did the rear shocks first because that was way worse. It was a huge huge improvement in ride quality. I'm finally getting around to the front (bone jarring hits on my local construction  ).Is there a reliable way to tell if coils needs replacing as well? This gen 4Runner is pretty famous for rear sag--but mine is 100% level. I'd prefer not to do it obviously, but if I need to the time is now. Just curious if there were any other obvious signs that would point to tired coils than sagging. 00 4Runner 165k mi 2wd. I'm pretty sure it was a straight pavement queen in South Florida, so wear was reasonably light on most components.
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Aug 3, 2015 23:53
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Molten Llama posted:Pretend you're going on a camping trip and load up ~50 pounds of poo poo in the back. Does it feel like your rear end is dragging on the pavement? If so, consider replacing the coils. Slavvy posted:Any sagging of the springs will have an absolutely miniscule effect on your car compared to four blown shocks and every bush and balljoint being disintegrated. Thanks. I just didn't know if there was some visual or tactile assessment I could make that would isolate them--considering that most of the parts are in need of replacement at this point. I've been doing it piecemeal, and didn't want to dilly-dally while I had it apart. They look fine and the truck is level, I guess I'll leave them alone.
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Aug 4, 2015 03:23
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Ok, I am a fountain of stupid questions. 00 4Runner, 166k mi. Had brakes done/rotors resurfaced a few months back. I've noticed recently that I've developed a light metallic clank or click from the front end when braking--basically as soon as the brakes engage it makes the noise. It's repeatable and consistent regardless of weather or moisture. I'm not sure but it sounds like it's coming from the driver's side front. There is no change to the quality of braking. Everything feels normal, but the noise is decidedly abnormal. If I ever get off work, I'm going to pull the wheels and inspect the brakes/spindles/etc. and look for signs of what could be causing it. Is there anything in particular I should look out for? Could it be a failing LBJ? Anyone experience something similar?
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Aug 27, 2015 23:52
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I'm looking for a good low-profile jack that'll fit under a Prius and a stock-height 4Runner. Any brands to avoid like the plague?
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Aug 31, 2015 01:46
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Godholio posted:Like a floor jack? I think a lot of them come from the same rebranding manufacturers. Just make sure you use stands rather than leave the weight on the jack. Yeah, floor jack. I'd prefer not to spend a billion dollars but I don't want to buy a piece of poo poo either. The Pittsburgh one at Harborfreight is everywhere. Craftsman? Are either of those worth a gently caress? And yeah, jack stands are part of it.
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Aug 31, 2015 02:09
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Cool, thanks guys. I've just used my dads poo poo for years and wanted to pick up one that'd work w/ both cars. I've got a little trolley jack i've used for the Prius for awhile, but its kind of a pain in the rear end. Most of the problems I've seen is in lift height, and didn't know if there was a particular brand that was more versatile or better. Thanks for the info though.
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Aug 31, 2015 02:21
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some texas redneck posted:For the 4Runner, a bottle jack will be a lot more useful. Unlikely to fit under the Prius though. Cool thanks. Stock jack is a little bottle jack anyways, so maybe i'll just pick up a couple of stands and do a little extra work. I have access to a nice floor jack anytime, but its like 30mi away. Just thought there was maybe something that'd work for both.
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Aug 31, 2015 02:39
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2000 4Runner Limited, 3.4L 5VZ-FE V6, 2wd. 175000mi. Issue: Sudden onset rough idle under load, stall x2. One time last summer, sitting in hot weather I had a brief uneven idle that didn't stall--pulled over, turned off and restarted with no issues...until yesterday. Same situation, more or less, sitting in hot weather traffic and I noticed my RPMs dropped to around 400. I put it in neutral, goosed it, it settle back at around 700, then dropped back down to 550-600 under load in park but even (which has been norm once the engine is warm since I've owned it). So I drove it home with no more issues, pulled in the driveway, then sat still with the transmission in D....and it slowly settled down to 400 and stalled. Fired right back up, put back in drive and the same thing happened. It has no problem starting afterward. I drove it around after with no significant issues--just when idling for more than a couple of minutes with the engine warm. Spark plugs/wires (both NGK) were replaced ~10k mi ago. PVC valve changed last year also. Fuel filter is presumably original. Vacuum hoses don't have any obvious leaks. I had a MIL beforehand that's been ongoing (P0441 - VSV on my charcoal canister), but I checked again and there were no additional trouble codes thrown. There's no stumbling or hesitation when accelerating. Idle is even without load (P or N). I'm thinking I'm going to clean the IAC and MAF today most likely, and replace the most worn looking vacuum hoses. If it was a fuel issue I'd suspect it to have issues when not under load, or when accelerating. Any other things I should look for or consider? I don't want to throw a million parts at it, but cleaning MAF/IAC would probably be a good cheap start, I think. Thoughts?
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Mar 17, 2016 18:28
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Mr. Wiggles posted:K, I can go to SLC. But what sort of car? Outback/Forester with AT tires? They'll return mid-20s hwy.
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Mar 18, 2016 17:20
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blk posted:Should I buy this? Don't gently caress around with this. 22RE 2nd Gen or buy a 3rd gen (4- or 6-cylinder). Full-stop.
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Mar 26, 2016 03:55
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Hot Karl Marx posted:ahhhhh my heart is saying yes but my brain is saying no. I'll call the guy and do a meeting with him and start the car and make sure it doesn't sound terrible/frame isn't hosed/under the hood looks fine and if it all looks good I will probably get it. If you aren't posting new pics of this Supra in your driveway in the next 72hrs I vote that you are permabanned.
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Apr 3, 2016 03:24
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Hot Karl Marx posted:Not that anyone cares probably, but I finally got a hold of that guy selling the supra. Gonna meet with him this weekend and if the frame and everything is okay I'll be purchasing my first (project) car. Everyone in this thread cares. We are all jealous. That car, if it is as advertised, is beautiful. And you would be beautiful for buying it.  I am so jealous. One day I will find a 93 MR2 to restore and my wife will be totally ok with it.
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Apr 6, 2016 02:02
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Christobevii3 posted:How big of a life insurance policy will you take out before having her find out about snapback oversteer? I had an 85, it's an MR myth. You just can't let it toe out through hard corners.
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Apr 6, 2016 02:25
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Tire Talk? Tire Talk! I've got an 00 4Runner 2wd with 175k mi on it--bought it with some old Michelin Latitude Tours that are cracked and old. I drive 80% highway miles, 15% city, 5% tame backroads/logging roads (no real offroading or mud, really, just access for fishing or hiking). I put 18-20k on my car per year. I'm down to: Michelin Defender LTX MS (70k) $186.50/per tire total Bridgeston Dueler H/L Alenza+ (80k) $166.75/per Firestone Destination LE2 (50k) $128.75/per I have a lot of miles on this truck and plan to keep it as long as its going strong, but I'm conflicted with going with such high mileage tires. I know the Michelin is rated very highly, but the Destination LE2 is close and the Alenza+ is highly rated in another category. Any advice or anecdotes you guys could share? I'm leaning toward the Michelins because I got such a good price on expensive tires, but part of me wants to be cheap with the Firestones.
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Apr 7, 2016 19:22
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| # ¿ May 2, 2024 19:59 |
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InitialDave posted:What size do you need? That will affect what people recommend. Ah! Sorry. Stock size for me: 265/70/R16
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Apr 7, 2016 19:37
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