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Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


I have a 2011 Honda Civic. The front driver-side wheel has a very slow leak, such that it lost maybe 5 psi in the span of a week. I took it to an (admittedly really lovely and useless) auto repair place and they said they were unable to find a leak. Is it possible for a leak to be too small to find, yet still result in a loss of pressure? Is there a way for me to find the leak myself? Or is a leak of this size not something I should bother fixing unless it gets worse?

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Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


None of my tires have their air plug caps anymore, from what I can see. Only the one tire started going flat.

They did the "submerge in water and look for bubbles" thing, but they didn't seem to try very hard when I watched them. I'll try another place.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


I got a postcard thing in the mail regarding a Honda/Acura class action lawsuit: https://www.autoairbagsettlement.com/en Apparently it applies to me since I have a 2011 Civic.

What's the deal with this? I remember something regarding airbags a few years ago, is this the same thing? Is there something I should do, like contest the settlement, or just ignore it?

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


IOwnCalculus posted:

Yes, it has to do with the airbags that could kill you. Step one is see if your car is actively recalled and if so, GET IT FIXED. Whether or not you want to include/exclude yourself from the settlement is a whole different issue.

I received the same postcard but I'm in limbo on it. My CR-V is in the class action lawsuit's impacted list, but has not been recalled yet, so I can't do anything.

Geoj posted:

Also be prepared to wait upwards of a year or more if you don't live in the south. Due to the nature of the defects airbags in high temperature and humidity climates are more susceptible to turning into bombs, so they're higher priority.

When I tried to have my wife's '05 Mazda 6 recalled in late 2015 the earliest any dealers around me could work me in was this past June.

Balls, my car is in fact impacted. Alright, I gotta get that fixed up then. Do I just get the airbags replaced, or do I need to replace the entire thing? The car was also in Florida for a couple years, so maybe that helps me jump to the front of the line.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Came home to find my car's front bumper torn off and lying on the sidewalk. It's drivable, and I managed to get the bumper almost all the way back on (it tore off at the screws), but I definitely don't feel secure in driving with it on. I put in a claim with the auto insurance and they said not to make any repairs until a representative gets back to me "sometime by end of day tomorrow", but I gotta pick someone up on Friday and I'm leaving for over a week on Saturday. What are my options? Do I try and drive with it anyway, or should I leave it the hell alone?

I gotta repark it too, cause it's on the side of the street that's getting cleaned. gently caress my life. :negative:

UPDATE: It survived the reparking, and it's more or less back as it was before, but I still don't feel safe taking it on the highway. What do?

Pollyanna fucked around with this message at 01:30 on Jul 19, 2018

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Deteriorata posted:

It's probably just the plastic bumper cover, which is only cosmetic. If you're afraid it will come off while you're driving, then pull it off and leave it in the garage (or throw in the back seat). There's no safety issue in driving without it, it just looks tacky.

What about the front license plate? What about the exposed antifreeze/cooler tank, as seen here? There's some stuff that worries me.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


It's probably fine, yeah...my main worry is the bumper suddenly falling off when I'm on the highway. I either need to get it even more secure as it currently is, or get it off again. I can probably do the latter... I'll get that done tomorrow morning.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


I might have to drill some holes for the zipties to work, but yeah, that's also an option.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


I can yell real good yeah

I'll break out the drill tomorrow. Why the gently caress not. Just hope I don't accidentally drill into something important.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Fine, bumper off it is. I’ll yell at Progressive. What a start to my vacation.

Edit: threw my hands up and took it to a body shop. They were super nice, and let me keep my car there until I get back. They’ll call a Progressive dude and handle insurance...in the meantime I gotta handle other poo poo. loving cars, man. This poo poo is gonna be expensive.

Pollyanna fucked around with this message at 15:08 on Jul 19, 2018

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Managed to get a chunk of my front right bumper ripped off by some icy snow or something while trying to get onto the road. Doesn’t look like the internals we’re busted. Is it worth it to try and duct tape it back together if it’s just the outside bumper, or should I get the whole thing fixed immediately? It would only be temporary anyway.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Bumper cover AFAICT but I’m not an auto expert so I really have no idea. What worries me the most is the lack of protection for the antifreeze or wiper fluid or whatever that is there.

Images in case someone smarter than me knows wtf.



Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Is duct tape good enough or do I need specialty tape or something?

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Lol if you think I can be trusted with a drill.

Part affixed (I think the tabs still work) and packing tape applied. Will replace with duct tape once it warms up. Thanks guys!

Turns out the service light is on so I need to take it to a Honda dealership anyway :v:

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Pollyanna posted:

Lol if you think I can be trusted with a drill.

Part affixed (I think the tabs still work) and packing tape applied. Will replace with duct tape once it warms up. Thanks guys!

Turns out the service light is on so I need to take it to a Honda dealership anyway :v:

So guess what? I never reported this to Progressive, and I only ended up at the Honda dealership around October of last year. I really put this off.

When I let the Honda guy know about the damage, he said that it was something insurance would cover. Now, it's been over a year since the damage occurred, and I doubt Progressive would still take this. I assumed that I would have to pay out of pocket to fix this anyway, but should I try reporting it to Progressive anyway? Their online claim submission says that the incident has to have happened within the past year, but I only learned that it was covered by insurance late last year. (The other option is to claim that it happened this winter, but I know better than to lie to insurance.)

And yeah, I did drift stitch it in the end. It's been fine so far, but it's time to get it fixed.

Pollyanna fucked around with this message at 17:21 on Mar 25, 2020

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


STR posted:

If you have collision, then yes, it will be covered, but your rates may go up.

It may be cheaper (overall, not up front) to have a shop fix it.

Well, it wasn't a collision, as much as the bumper got caught on some ice. I guess insurance doesn't care.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


big crush on Chad OMG posted:

Collision is a catch all bucket for damage to your vehicle that isn’t covered under comprehensive.

They’ll ask you why you didn’t report it but just say you didn’t think it was covered or you didn’t have coverage.

Alright, I'm gonna do it. I bet my rates are gonna go up :sigh:

E: Yeah no, they won't take it. Ah well. I'll save up for a fix once we're out of quarantine, even if it'll end up being expensive.

Pollyanna fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Mar 27, 2020

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Directly.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Is there a way to tell what exactly is broken with the front of my car? About a year and 2 months ago, I tore open the bumper cover while pulling off the curb after it got stuck on some hard ice, and I did a patch job on the bumper cover itself - but I can't tell if anything else is broken. I'd like to know how much a repair will be once this pandemic subsides and I can get it checked out at the dealership/service center. Is it easy to tell if it's just the plastic cover or if it's deeper hosed up poo poo with the metal or wires/cables? 2011 Honda Civic, if it helps.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


It’s really just that the bumper cover corner got ripped apart thanks to some hard ice. I don’t think the backing metal would have gotten bent or broken, otherwise I think it wouldn’t have survived the highways it’s survived so far.

It sounds like this won’t be too expensive. Good! But I’m no good at auto repair, so I’ll be going to a shop.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


PainterofCrap posted:

If you've torn the cover, you can stitch the tear together by drilling holes on either side and pulling the tear together with zip ties. Such repairs are surprisingly robust, if visually startling (try to avoid crowds with torches & pitchforks).

In the event that you elect to replace the cover, be it with used from a yard, or aftermarket: it can be a stone bitch getting the damned thing on there and lining up nicely with all mating surfaces.

If possible, wait until the hottest day you can and leave the replacement cover out in direct sun. The softer it is, the easier it will be. Try to avoid heat-stroke, but working in blast-furnace conditions is far better than spending an hour playing whack-a-mole between the fender clips and the area under the headlights before saying, "gently caress it" & day-drinking conducting fluid replacement studies

I ended up drift stitching it, yeah. I'm just turbo lazy and prefer to have someone do it.

One time a car literally tore the whole thing off of my car and I tried to put it back on myself and :lol: no.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


The AUX port on my 2011 Honda Civic seems to be broken. It can't detect when a jack is plugged in anymore, which I've confirmed by testing multiple different jacks on it. Supposedly you can replace it with a new part, but I don't know how reliable that fix is.

If I do go with that fix, where do I get the part I need? Will this work, or do I need to go to a Honda dealership for a replacement or something?

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


STR posted:

That'll work fine.

Thanks, ordered. Hopefully I can get this completely fixed before my 3.5 hour drive on Saturday :gonk:

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


STR posted:

There's a tiny little slider thing inside it that makes it detect the cable - does it work if you kinda get it ALMOST all the way in? If so, you might be able to do that on your drive, though you may get audio out of only one side unless you get it juuuuust right.

Worst case, if you can't get the plug apart, that part of the dash just snaps together - you can pop the entire plug out as a unit instead of disassembling it, but only once you have the dash apart. That's what I would do instead of risking damage to the new one, personally, but that guy's method probably saves 30 minutes and a lot of frustration.

STR posted:

That'll work fine.

The fix worked like a charm - thanks a bunch!

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


2011 Honda Civic, about 32k miles.

Anybody know what might be causing the TPMS sensor to go off?

I recently had a leak in my rear right tire and I went to an Official And Presumably Trustworthy Honda Dealership to get it fixed. Apparently, it required repairing/replacing the pressure input and TMPS sensor on the wheel. It looks like this right now:



(Pressure readings gave me about 35psi.)

The fix went in about a week and a half ago or something. Recently, I was driving to a friend’s house, and the TPMS sensor suddenly came on. I was loving pissed at first, but I checked the pressure on the tires and all of them still seem to be well pressurized, including the one that was fixed. So now, I’m just kinda confused.

When I was checking the tires, I noticed that the tire that got its sensor replaced was harder to get a pressure reading for. I have to push into it a bit hard and it’s not a blast of air like the others, it’s slower and quieter. I’ve never seen this before, and it’s real weird.

While I’m waiting on the dealership to call me back and let me ask them what the gently caress they did to my tire, any idea why this might be happening?

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


It got pretty cold yesterday, but it’s gotten cold before, and this seems relatively new. Change in temperature didn’t mess with the tires as far as I can tell. If it’s the temp change it’ll resolve over time, if it’s retraining I’ll look that up and try it. :shrug: If there’s nothing conceptually wrong with the fix I’ll see if I can squeeze the dealership and make them take a look.

Anything I should watch out for in case it’s not just temperature/retraining? I definitely don’t wanna blow out a tire or anything.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Krakkles posted:

If your tire pressure is good (meaning, verify it with a gauge on the tire - which it sounds like you did), what TPMS thinks is irrelevant. The only real path I can think of from what you've described to blowing out a tire is if the sensor/stem is somehow bad enough that it physically fails. I wouldn't worry about it.

“Physically fails” is why I included that note about it being kinda hard to get a reading, which I’ve never had to do on anything else ever. I have no idea what would make a valve like that be so annoying to work with, hence my suspicion about the repair’s quality.

I’ll keep an eye on it...very sus.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Any idea why this might be happening?





If it helps, here’s what’s directly above the leak.





Is it something I can fix myself, or do I have to take this thing to service again? :gonk:

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


No sunroof, no.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

Your door seals appear to be rotted to poo poo. It's a little annoying but not difficult to fix, you can DIY it for sure. Not sure what kind of car it is except some kind of Honda. You'll want some kind of plastic trim removal device to pry out the old one or a plastic knife will do. Don't use metal tools. The new one has little plastic pushpins on it that hold it in place, you just line up with the holes and go. Drape the thing all the way around and get it lined up, then start with the tricky corner at the top on the hinge side when you secure it.

Book time is about half an hour to do it, so even if you're not sure what you're doing it won't take more than an hour.

edit: if one is hosed they're probably all hosed, you should replace the others while you're at it.

Got it, looks like it's a matter of replacing the door seals on a 2011 Honda Civic. I might try my hand at it by looking the steps up on Youtube first. Is there anything else that could contribute to it? Maybe something around the windshield like in the third picture?

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


You know what, I just answered my own question.









Some sort of weather stripping along the windshield has separated from the body, and it's opened up a hole that water flows into. Apparently it's kind of a pain to replace:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vo25FJl5EUE

:negative: Maybe I can get away with just a bit of duct tape.


This one looks a lot more doable: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I99Hqyo2b4M NM I think that's only part of it. Ughhh I'll do more research, thanks guys!

Pollyanna fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Mar 28, 2021

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


kastein posted:

Windshield leaks are very rare on modern cars because generally the windshield is glued in and the trim is just for looks, sure about that? It's probably the door opening or weatherstripping, especially if the windshield hasn't been replaced recently.

"Modern" in this case means like, made after 1984, too.

Sorry, I'm fuckin' hopeless with cars. I guess I might be looking in the wrong place, then? Just to confirm, the part where the windshield's side connects to the body is weathertight, right? And circled in red is what you're figuring is actually letting the water in?



Is that not the same part as this, then? And as a short-term fix until the part comes in, I could just put some duct tape over the holes here?

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Got it. So the door seal on a Honda Civic is what stops water from leaking in and soaking the A pillar cover? (that part that’s soaked in my photo)

So it’s basically the exact part that’s getting replaced in those videos that I need to fix. Alright, I’ll see if I can hunt those parts down. By the way, when they call parts “right” and “left”, is that from the head-on perspective, or from the driver’s perspective?

vvv thanks!

Pollyanna fucked around with this message at 00:05 on Mar 29, 2021

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


I’m considering upgrading from my 2011 Honda Civic. I’d like more cargo space, so I’m thinking either a hatchback or a station wagon. Which of those is a better fit for my use case? I’m the only driver and usually the only person in the car, so I’m not going to be hauling a bunch of people very often. Cargo space would be for hauling medium-large cargo like flatpack furniture, grocery runs, etc.

And in the meantime, would it be worthwhile to invest in some detailing and maintenance/upgrades to my Civic? Would that command more value on a trade-in?

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Hatch sounds good to me. Though I’m also realizing I’m deeply car-stupid, especially considering I’ve had a starter Civic for 13 years. I’ll research durable and reliable hatchbacks then and not worry too much about my current car, thanks!

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3213538

that's the car buying thread which is pretty good but the standard thread recs are gonna be Gods Own Chariot the Toyota Prius, mazda3, civic hatch, corolla hatch, and probably the impreza/crosstrek although i personally don't care for those and they are much less reliable than the others

Yeah, I’ve heard good things about all of those (maybe less so the Subarus).

One point got brought up regarding the advantages of hatchback-form crossovers over hatchback-form sedans. Think Mazda 3 vs. Mazda CX-5. I hear that it might be worth getting a car with higher lift and tire size due to the roads in my area being poo poo and badly maintained with potholes and garbage. I’m not really sure how crossovers compare to standard hatchbacks otherwise. What else would I be trading on?

Pollyanna fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Apr 11, 2024

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Speaking of upgrading, I got to thinking about longevity. Is there such a thing as a modular buy-it-for-life car? I like the idea of getting a solid reliable vehicle and going full Ship of Theseus on it, replacing any old or worn out part with newer compatible ones. I know that cars have a lifespan and everything dies eventually, but maybe there’s some enjoyment and cost savings to be had out of continuous upgrades and replacements instead of buying a new one every ten to fifteen years or some expensive bullshit.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Maybe I’m just really bad at sourcing parts for my existing car. :v:

trilobite terror posted:

it’s called being an AI poster, and yes, as long as you protect your car from rust there’s theoretically no limit to what you can baby and replace. There are Honda Accords and whatnot hitting a million miles. The biggest limiting factor for a car where you live is rust and nothing else comes close.

Most good cars in New England ultimately succumb to rust way before they completely fail mechanically in such a way where you couldn’t hypothetically drop in a used motor or transmission or do a rebuild or whatever if your drivetrain suffered some catastrophic issue. Most cars never even get to that point, they simply get too far-gone with rust.

Ugh, yeah, I’m honestly surprised my Civic hasn’t flaked away into nothing by now. But drat it needs a hell of a deep clean and some new hubcaps n poo poo.

Though supposedly Civics are disposable starter cars, no? Are they intended to be scrapped rather than maintained or upgraded?

Pollyanna fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Apr 13, 2024

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


I don’t even know how to get under a car to check. I’m extremely car ignorant. Best I can do is change a wheel if necessary (and my spare is currently stuck under a rusted and broken nut I can’t undo). This sort of stuff would definitely be easier if I had a garage or something, but I just have an apartment with a 4-car parking lot out the back.

Hell, I patted myself on the back last winter for figuring out that I could just go to Autozone and buy new wiper blades when my old ones got worn out instead of asking them to change them out whenever I went in for maintenance.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


trilobite terror posted:

I mean, just like look underneath it. Look at the bits connected to the wheels and also look at the underbody. Is it like hella rusty where big chunks are breaking off or is it relatively fine?

Maybe take a couple of pictures and show us.

Ehh…

https://youtu.be/AcvlgX2uNNY

https://youtu.be/DaXjD6grzCg

It’s getting there.

Under the hood:

https://youtu.be/EDmQvPfT0kw

https://youtu.be/S6Q9YN108zk

If it matter.

PainterofCrap posted:

First-generation Mustang
Air-cooled VW

Arguably, you can build an entire car from the available parts alone, if you have a mind to.

One of the main reasons I stick with vehicles built before 1974 is the ability to repair them. It of course does depend on the car. 1gen Camaros are another that would work.

Probably the ultimate would be a Checker Marathon.

Maybe I should invest in my car education with a My Summer Car playthrough :v:

Eric the Mauve posted:

The richest person I know on a day-to-day basis, who was the CEO of a small pharma company that was bought out by a gigantic pharma company, is still driving the 1994 Ford Expedition he bought new 30 years ago. I think it has about 900,000 miles on it. There's not an original part left on it besides the frame and some of the body. He likes it. He doesn't want anything else.

He also still lives in the 2-story, 4-bedroom house right along a busy main road that he raised his kids in, even though he's probably got a 9-digit net worth by now. He's that kind of guy. He arranges his life so he can feel like it's 1993 forever.

:hmmyes: That guy’s got it figured out.

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Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Doing more research on hatchbacks and I’m glad there’s more of ‘em now but - man, I honestly prefer the classic vertical door design instead of the angled liftback style. Nothing wrong with boxy in the back IMO.

The Civic is just such a good, reliable model though…if it had the Mazda 3 look, it’d be a no-brainer. Especially strange considering there’s apparently more cargo space in the Civic hatch than the Mazda despite the liftback door.

Honestly I keep coming up Civic, so it’s probably gonna be that. Maybe when I have a house and garage of my own I’ll trade into a Type R :v:

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