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Geirskogul posted:Protip: don't throw parts at a car. Agreed. 87 Lada Niva. Not really asking a question. just saying for reference. Throwing parts at a car to solve a vague condition can be costly and time consuming. There's a horrible groan I've been chasing for months in the front end when I turn the steering wheel. I've even tried using a sound meter on my phone to pinpoint it. There are so many parts under there I could replace to try and alleviate it, but all the parts while old appear to be serviceable. I believe I have may found the problem. it seems to be a flogged inner tie rod end. This can be isolated if I try. It pays to take time and thought into narrowing down then isolating issues. And bearing in mind cause and effect. Just because a part is misbehaving and doing X, doesn't mean it is the one causing the problem.
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Feb 8, 2015 00:24
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1987 Lada Niva. I'm having a poo poo of a problem with the brakes. The left hand rear wheel makes a clunk then the wheel locks up. it usually does this after I have applied the brakes and released them. The brakes can be freed by reversing. What I've done that may have caused this: *Replaced brake hoses and bled system. *Adjusted hand brake. *Adjusted rear drum cams. *Attempted disassembly of rear left shoe assembly. One of the brake pistons fell out so I cleaned it and reinserted it. It was clean and nothing was missing. After this happened I decided to reassemble the brakes without putting on new shoes. The old shoes still have plenty of meat on them. Everything was pretty disgusting in there but that's nothing new. Previous to all this work, whenever I drove the Niva it'd brake like poo poo for a bit in the morning until I heard a clunk and the pedal feel and braking would change. This is one of the reasons I initiated the work. I've also replaced the proportioning valve, master cylinder, fluid reservoir and one of the front calliper piston blocks. After the first bout of locking up in the driveway, I pulled off the wheel and drum to take a look. The trailing piston had the shoe come unseated from the notch and rotated a little. The most recent disassembly everything was where it should have been. I'm kind of lost on what could be wrong with it. I'll be adding a brake cylinder to my next order, but it does seem to be working fine still. If anyone has any ideas, please let me know. I have no idea why it's behaving like this. Sorry about the bandwidth killers.   Up top is the cylinder. The bar with the lever is for the handbrake. The thing just below the bar is an adjuster cam. The other shoe has one too but it's hidden behind the lever. The plate at the very bottom is attached to the backing and has a notch for the shoes to sit in. Everything looks to be present, correct and functional. I spoilered my theory to avoid accidentally suggesting an incorrect diagnosis. I think it has something to do with the hand brake. I adjusted it for three notches instead of the 4-5 as suggested in the manual. This is a common practice. It may be causing some unspecified issue with the shoes at rest. It's a vague theory and may well be wrong.
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Feb 28, 2015 08:29
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General_Failure posted:1987 Lada Niva. Selfquote! New day and a clear head. Amazing how it helps. Things I've noticed /remembered: *The brake drum is a new one to replace the old one which had chunks out of its rim, presumably from a hammer. The brake assembly had a problem which it still has with spinning too freely. Ie when I adjust the brakes it's a bitch to make the left grab. *The spring retainer clips are shiny. Someone did work in there. *Yesterday I absentmindedly set the handbrake with the drum off. It applied as normal. Today I realised this. The cable is pulled in all the way / the lever in the drum is fully actuated. *Yesterday while trying to adjust the brake on that side I spun one of the cams all the way round by mistake. So we know the handbrake is adjusted too far. Yet I can slide the drum back on. The shoes have plenty of meat on them. The pistons seem to be overextended. So It's one of four things: The shoes are too small The drum and it's predecessor were too large. I'm somehow messing up adjustment. Ghosts. Any ideas?
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Mar 1, 2015 00:33
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Slavvy posted:Idea: stop loving around with old poo poo, get new shoes/drums/cylinders, walk away a contented man. Hadn't occurred to me really. The drum only has a couple of thousand km on it. I bought it new last year. The shoes are old I guess. Hard to say. I pulled the assembly apart a little while ago anyway and compared old to new. The shoes are the same shape no doubt. The old ones are only about 1-2mm off new friction material thickness too. There is a bit of a design difference in the metal but it looks functionally equivalent. PainterofCrap posted:On drum brakes, there's typically a leading shoe & a trailing shoe. I'll have to check if there is actually a leading and trailing shoe in this design. All four shoes metal are identical and have the same part number stamping. Maybe they still stuck the friction material on differently in pairs. The new shoes are a sealed new OEM set. Not a third party Chinese special.
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Mar 1, 2015 05:10
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Slavvy posted:Sorry I was under the impression that you were dealing with PO installed parts. If you're able to fit the drum on with the shoes as they are in the picture, it seems like the wheel cylinder won't have anywhere near enough travel to push them out further without bursting. I'm not familiar with soviet tractor designs but to my eye it seems like the WC is just too small to work with the shoes being that far apart; logic dictates that it's either the wrong WC or the shoes are slightly incorrect. I just stole a few minutes to chuck the drum back together with the new shoes and did a quick brake adjust. It seems to be behaving as it should. The brake pedal is definitely firming up sooner too. I haven't adjusted the hand brake yet but signs are positive. Some time in the next week I'll try to grab a little more time to swap out the shoes on the other side and adjust the brakes completely. I'm really not sure if it's a good or bad thing that I can pull everything apart, repair, reassemble and adjust in a few minutes now. Looks like the same cylinder to me. http://ladapower.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&view=productdetails&virtuemart_product_id=382&virtuemart_category_id=19 Anyway now the pistons are just about bottoming out on each other which is a bit better. We'll see what happens once I get everything swapped out and adjusted.
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Mar 1, 2015 05:47
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SperginMcBadposter posted:Is this a car you are currently driving? You should really both drums at the same time. If you mean replace the other actual drum too... ehh. I know I probably should but I doubt it would make a whole lot of difference. It hasn't yet. If you mean replace the shoes and adjust, I will. It's not currently being driven. It's been on light duties since late last year because I had to pull the rear propshaft. I took it off the road completely early this year because of multiple issues (mostly brake) that needed addressing.
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Mar 1, 2015 13:47
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Followup again to my stupid question. Can't blueball people on a result. Although I've only had a chance to drive it back and forth a couple of car lengths it seems like the locking up wheel is fixed. the shoes on both sides have been replaced, brakes adjusted and handbrake adjusted and lubricated. I just used Inox MX-3 penetrating oil to free it up a bit. Not really sure what I'm meant to use on it. When I did the right side assembly I realised the hand brake cable was retracted on that side too even though I slackened it off for disassembly. I shoved the lever with the lug nut wrench to get it moving then lubricated from the under car end. At some point the mysterious creaking from the left rear disappeared too which is a bonus. The hand brake and foot brake both seem to work fine on both wheels now. This is pretty much a first. I still have no idea what was actually going on but the new shoes helped somehow. I now look forward to giving it as much of a thrashing as I dare. It still needs a tie rod end, steering box, rear brake hose, left rear brake cylinder and CV boot replacement.
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Mar 2, 2015 07:51
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1987 Lada Niva. I've been reading a certain thread on here which made me doubt my decision to replace the mechanical fan which was missing it's shroud with a couple of Davies Craig-like OEM fans with a thermo switch. The OEM mech fan wasn't all that big to be honest. The two fans I substituted are set up to blow through and fit the radiator cutout neatly. I think there's old pics in my project thread. Anyway one of the reasons I did this was for low speed / low rev cooling because it is a 4x4 plus they are known for having borderline cooling when worked hard at low speeds. The reduction in parasitic drag is also noticeable when cruising. Probably because it doesn't have a whole pile of horses to work with. It's radiator is pretty shagged and needs to be replaced anyway, but I just want to make sure that I didn't make a stupid move.
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Mar 6, 2015 04:48
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Slavvy posted:You did the right thing, two decent electrics are going to be pushing a lot more air than a lovely 4 blade thing synchronised to engine revs on a russian tractor. Awesome. you put my mind a little more at ease with that. So long as I didn't make a series of bad choices. heh. I've noticed when I'm driving along in 2nd gear on a dirt road the temperature climbs a bit. Can't remember if I said but it's pretty common for Aussie 1600 Niva owners to fit a manually switched electric to augment the mechanical for offroad duties. I believe the 1700 has dual electrics from the factory but I don't know much about the 1700 besides they have a different cooling system and fuel injection.
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Mar 6, 2015 23:10
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Slavvy posted:Have you got points ignition? Your gap/dwell might be set incorrectly. Excellent question. I can tell you the dwell is bang on. Timing is more or less correct. I had to statically time it because the stupid timing strobe burned out on the second use. I replaced the scorched component but it still fizzled. I had the drat thing shipped from the U.K. because it's still waaaay cheaper than buying one of similar quality in Australia. The timing is a motherfucker to set statically but I did it according to the operations manual. Personally I think that the fact that there are sections of the radiator that are stone cold even when the engine is at 90 odd *C is a pretty good indicator that it's totally rooted.
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Mar 10, 2015 07:22
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This is probably a really stupid question but where the hell do I buy reasonably priced wiper blades? Just the blades. I'm in Australia. So far I know I can get a pair of ??? branded ones from Repco for about $18, or a pack of 50 Bosch blades for $40 on eBay. Wipers dry rot, turn to stone or get abraded by dirt, or perma-folded to one side from disuse here way before they wear out. I only need a cheapie for the rear window as it was an inspection failure item because it's folded to one side. I'm kind of sick of buying wiper blades as a barely used consumable.
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Jul 21, 2015 23:18
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1995? Jeep XJ Cherokee. 4.0L auto, Dana 35 I'm sure this is a stupid question but it's bothering me a lot. I just slid under to try and track down a mysterious clunk clunk clunk which occurs sometimes when taking off from a stop. First thing I did was grab the rear propshaft and try to wiggle and turn it. Absolutely no movement. None. Is this normal? usually on vehicles I can rotate the shaft a little or maybe see a slight perceptible wobble. But on the Jeep there's nothing. It might as well be welded solid. Should I be concerned about zero play or movement?
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Aug 21, 2015 00:39
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1987 Lada Niva. Stupid question, not a problem. I've been contemplating a set of Kumho KL71 tyres. The sticking point is they have directional tread. What do people usually do about a spare tyre in this case?
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Sep 15, 2015 11:40
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tater_salad posted:Directional wont be an issue if its mounted right. You can rotate directional tires you just need to be sure they are mounted right. Not so much worried about rotation as much as potential issues when actually needing to use a spare. But thanks, that's good to know. some texas redneck posted:Keep the best of your old tires and have it mounted as a spare. I have considered this option. Gotta be the sperg and say that if it's one of the old tyres it's already mounted. Sorry. The issue I have with this idea is that the company that made the old set closed their doors in the mid '90s. Might just see if I can pick up a secondhand mud or AT with some tread left as a spare. The odds of me needing it are pretty low. Thanks! I'm going to drop around to the local tyre place today to see if his phone calls yielded anything better than purchasing off eBay. Either way I'm hoping to organize to purchase today or tomorrow. Not rushing, just the eBay thing ends tomorrow and I'm sick of only having road wheels.
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Sep 16, 2015 00:34
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I just found a picture of my car with a Portugese Alibaba seller's watermark on it. Is there anything I can do about it? Is it even worth it? http://portuguese.alibaba.com/product-gs/lada-niva-off-road-snorkel-kit-lada-niva-4x4-off-road-snorkel-kit-60206477407.html
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Sep 25, 2015 06:01
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CharlesM posted:I don't know but here's the English page and there's a button that says report suspicious activity. Hey thanks! I didn't realise there was an English version.
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Sep 25, 2015 22:51
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95 XJ Jeep Cherokee. 4.0L. We went for a drive today exploring some tracks. We finished for the day and started to head back. We spotted what looked like a potential camping site on the side of the road and pulled over. The temperature went up. I got going because I figured it was just lack of airflow with low speed driving on dirt. It worked briefly then it went way up. I had to pull over. The coolant was vomiting out the overflow tank. Long story short we got together enough water to get back to town with a couple of stops, with it trying to overheat until the final fill, when it was "just" running around 100*C. I stopped at the shittiest supermarket in the universe to get drinks and coolant or water for the car. Couldn't get poo poo for the car but we got drinks. About two blocks later I was forced to pull over because of something my son did and I noticed water pouring out from underneath, via the overflow bottle. Limped it to a service station a block away ...which was closed of course, but they had a tap. After waiting a while I filled it up, started it, and filled it some more. That got us home to the next town with the gauge slowly creeping up to 100*C again. When we pulled up and I killed the engine it started to boil away again. The facts: *There has been an intermittent CEL. It flashes out that there's an O2 sensor problem. (Pre OBD) *Today was apparently 37*C, so it was a bit warm out. *When the engine cools below 100*C it starts to suck the coolant, well water now back in. It forms a good vacuum inside the cooling system with no signs of air leaks. Doesn't suck coolant back until it equalizes though. *When the engine warms past 100*C it starts to boil out into the overflow. *Light pressure on top of the fairly new radiator cap seems to halt the overflow. *There's no bubbling in the cooling system or cross contamination between water and coolant. I need to fix this ASAP. I'm theorizing that the O2 sensor is borderline and causing it to run lean but have no proof. What do I need to do to fix it? Can I get an O2 sensor cheaper than $150? Is the radiator cap faulty. Could the clutch fan be less than perfect? Should I bother getting coolant for it tomorrow or just keep the water in there until I've fixed it? e: Can I force it into open loop mode to avoid potential lean conditions temporarily? General_Failure fucked around with this message at 09:10 on Oct 4, 2015 |
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Oct 4, 2015 08:36
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:Sounds like your overflow tank cap might be bad? Mine used to bubble over under load until I replaced the cap (forget the part number but it was from a Volvo and is a common tweak at least for 87-90 renix XJs.) Nah. It an unpressurized overflow system. The tank filled up and it ran out the little overflow spout. I do have suspicions about the radiator cap though.
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Oct 4, 2015 09:08
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EightBit posted:I'd be worried about your water pump with those symptoms, but try the radiator cap first as it is cheaper. I hope not. That'd make two vehicles in the stable with suspect water pumps. I do find it interesting that light pressure on the cap stopped the overflow. The outer cap seal is holding fine and the inner looks fine but it may not be holding against pressure. I went through something not entirely different with the Niva a few months back. The inner cap seal had become a little unseated. Pushing it back into place stopped the boiling. Sadly the Jeep's cap looks fine. First thing I checked when I took it off. Prick of a thing is I'm sure the nearest cap would be at Repco over the border. Assuming the Niva holds up to the upcoming stress test today I'll be going for a drive tomorrow anyway and will stop off to get a cap. Can't hurt. Spare rad caps are always good anyway.
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Oct 4, 2015 20:57
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Followup question from before. Can someone help me with my homework? 1994 4.0 Jeep Cherokee. Sorry about that. It has a compliance date of '95 but a build date tag for Sept '94. I was looking on eBay for an O2 sensor. After reading back the codes it's still the only important one. The other one was a battery disconnect. Anyway after spending some time looking at sensors I concluded I have no drat idea which sort I need. Please tell me? Also please tell me about O2 sensor sockets?
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Oct 4, 2015 22:55
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InitialDave posted:I can't help you with the right sensor, but the specific nature of the sensor sockets is they have a slot in them so the wiring can hang out the side. Now, in my experience, if replacing a dead sensor, you can do without them. You don't care about the old sensor, so the wiriing can just be cut to let you use a regular socket, and a normal spanner will let you get the new one in just fine. Oh, nice. Thanks. I realised a little while ago that the water pump is fine. I even indirectly said it earlier. yesterday when I filled the radiator with water at the closed service station I started the engine to burp the system and put the rest of the water in. Instant level drop. The water pump is circulating fine. Also when it got hot initially after we had stopped on the road and waited for a while I was putting water in and starting the motor for a few seconds every so often to circulate out the hot water in the engine for the cooler water in the radiator. So yeah that's not it. My best guess is still a bad radiator cap / lean condition combo.
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Oct 5, 2015 00:02
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:Rockauto lists 11 different compatible 02 sensors... Mopar #56028301 being the most expensive at $61. BOSCH #15704 at $24 and NTK #23023 at $28 being midrange. I have an NTK in my XJ and recommend it... the older pre91 XJs prefer those, not sure about yours but it's a good brand/safe bet. Cool thanks. i can't order from Rockauto though  If it is the two O2 sensors it'd be the pre-cat one right? I just made another discovery that I don't like one little bit. What I've always thought to be a squeaky idler pulley isn't. At least as far as I can tell. It's either coming from somewhere around a #4 valve or the distributor. This suuuucks.
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Oct 5, 2015 04:18
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:Both the Bosch and NTK sensors are the same price on Amazon. Rub it in. Although perhaps I may be lucky and find one of those sellers that does international shipping on Amazon. The oil looks good by the way except whenever I pull the dipstick out there's a few fine metallic particles stuck to it. A post mortem of the oil and filter will tell volumes. I did some reading and the squeaking can be caused by a lack of lubrication to the rockers. The ones I could see through the filler looked like they had oil flow. I guess it's rocker cover off time too.
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Oct 5, 2015 07:02
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1987 Lada Niva. It pulls to the left. I've been trying to work out why for a while. Today I noticed that the right side has been shimmed for more a bit more positive camber and quite a bit of negative caster. Sadly my stupid brain can't work out whether that's reducing the effect or increasing it. Really I don't even know if the shimming was done by an alignment place or a crazy person. Would it be causing the pull, and would I be doing something dumb by removing the extra shims and seeing what happens? e: forward tilt is negative caster right? General_Failure fucked around with this message at 03:50 on Oct 21, 2015 |
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Oct 21, 2015 03:34
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1995 Toyota RAV4. 5sp manual. A bit over an hour into a trip it popped out of 5th gear. Trying to put it back in it popped back out immediately. No problem with the other gears. I tried putting it in 5th while stationary. It stays. Loading it while stationary it still stays. The gearbox has always felt kind of notchy even the whole time the PO had it. I've never driven another manual rav4 so I don't know if that's normal. Suggestions or ideas?
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Dec 18, 2015 02:26
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General_Failure posted:1995 Toyota RAV4. 5sp manual. Selfquote. Got home again okay and did a little research now I'm not being hassled by my provider about nearing my pathetic monthly data allowance. It's either something in the shifter assembly or the 5th gear. Kind of figured that but apparently it uses a cable shift which can have parts wear. There was no sign of anything untoward beforehand except the notchy shifting so I'm hoping it's just the shifter assembly.
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Dec 18, 2015 09:32
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'87 Lada Niva. Still battling with the clutch. It's a pretty standard hydraulic clutch system with a threaded rod on the SC for manual clutch adjustment. Issue: Declutching point is near the floor. Tried: Bleeding clutch. Vacuum bleeding clutch. Readjusting SC to factory setting. Readjusting SC past factory setting, ensuring the TOB wasn't touching still. Result of the last step was interesting. Instead of the clutch pedal feeling dead until declutching occurs, there's resistance in the pedal before declutching, which still seems to happen at roughly the same point. What's going on? I can't work this out. I'm considering another vacuum bleed because I still don't 100% trust the fluid but beyond that no idea.
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Dec 29, 2015 00:59
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spankmeister posted:It's Russian, use a sledgehammer. Mm. No. Although I have used the sledgehammer on it plenty of times. The hydraulic parts aren't old either. Everything I've found on low engagement points for hydraulic clutches indicates hydraulic issue as I would have presumed. 1500quidporsche posted:No clue but I'm shocked that an 80s Lada has a hydraulic clutch. Sure does! Not 100% sure but I think they always had them.
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Dec 29, 2015 01:14
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Slavvy posted:Does the engagement point move if you pump the clutch pedal rapidly before trying to move off for the first time? quote:The resistance you're feeling might be you hitting the limit of sensible angles between the pedal, linkage and MC when you adjust it right out because it presumably doesn't have an eccentric adjuster to make up for this because russia. Duhhhh... *googles frantically* Still not quite sure what you mean. The only adjustment on the MC side of things is the top stop for the clutch pedal. Can't say I've ever seen much more than that on anything. Blow posted:So dudes. You answered your own question unknowingly. Aussie fords love to turbofuck their battery if they aren't started and ran with extreme regularity. To this day I have no idea why.
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Dec 29, 2015 12:37
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I'm sure people like kastein could answer this one while comatose. '95 Jeep Cherokee 4.0. Automatic. Transmission oil needs a top up. It's just a little above the fill line. Can I use Dex III?
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Jan 2, 2016 04:33
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Paging Jeep people. 1995 Jeep Cheroke XJ 4.0L auto. It needs a LH engine mount. The rubber is knackered and it was one of the items it failed inspection on. Is this the correct mount? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MACKAY-LH-ENGINE-MOUNT-JEEP-CHEROKEE-XJ-1993-1995-4-0L-A5305-/141857107987
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Feb 24, 2016 00:56
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EightBit posted:Looks like the same part that is in Rockauto.com's catalog, and the same style in my 2000 TJ. Save yourself some time and headache and replace both sides up there while you do the one. They should be cheap parts. Or not, that AU$ price looks menacing. Is stuff really that expensive over there? I can get a whole (both sides and transmission) for under US$30. That was the cheapest I could find by a decent margin, not that there were all that many options. I actually thought the price wasn't that bad. Yes AU prices for parts are generally horrifying. Thanks for the feedback though. I'm only going to be replacing the one for now. I still need to find an indicator lens for the Jeep branded roo bar Not sure but maybe ARB style will fit?
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Feb 24, 2016 09:38
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'87 Lada Niva. I hope I haven't asked this. Been sick so my head's a bit hazy. A little background. I just finished pulling and reinstalling the starter motor and replacing the steering box. These two are in close proximity to the 2-1 exhaust pipe section attached to the manifold. There was a stamped metal heatshield between the starter and the exhaust but I got the shits and snapped it off because it was preventing me from removing and reinstalling the starter and steering box. Apparently a lot of people remove them from the RHD models for this exact reason. I snapped it off because the studs holding it to the intake manifold were withered lumps of rust and the nuts seemed like random ones that were jammed onby someone. All seized solid. Now my question. Would I be okay to get the cheap fiberglass exhaust wrap to put around the section near the starter? It's an old NA 1600 carbed engine. Nothing fancy. I feel that even cheap wrap would probably better than the lovely piece of metal that was there. It's as low budget as I am. That's why I'm asking.
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May 12, 2016 05:30
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Slavvy posted:How close is close proximity? If it's more than a few inches I wouldn't even worry about it. Yeah sorry about the slow reply. It's really not much. I suppose an inch or so I guess. I haven't seen it installed without the heat shield. But the heat shield sits pretty close to the starter. The bottom bracket on my heat shield was broken and that little bit of flex made it touch on the exhaust and get rubbed away a bit on the edge. Part of me is thinking I should just shove it all back together now and order some wrap. gently caress future me over so I can drive my car. You know? I welded up the muffler cracks and holes yesterday so the exhaust is ready to go back in, and knocked the snapped swaybar bracket stud out so I can shove in a through bolt. So there's really nothing stopping me from finishing putting everything back together, except that it was an absolute ironclad oval office of a job removing an entire exhaust system from manifold to (apparently chrome) tailpipe in one piece, and I'm really not looking forward to reversing the process.
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May 14, 2016 13:24
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Stupid question here. I've been looking at the cheap and nasty frame less windscreen wipers on Aliexpress for my Niva. I'm trying to find a 14" bayonet style one but I have no idea what I'm looking at. Can someone help me / point me in the right direction? I have a theory that lower profile, frame less blades will work better with the low powered wiper motor than the huge universal framed blade assemblies. Plus the blades tend to be pushing mud more than water so cheap blades are a plus.
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Jun 27, 2016 05:11
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Jeep Cherokee. Sept. 94 build date. RHD. 4.0L Sport. The blower fan has stopped working. Discovered it a couple of days ago. Worked fine until then. It had been raining in the interim. Started the car and no fan. I checked the fuses. Couldn't find anything amiss. Replaced the fuse in case there was a crack internally that I couldn't see or something. Wiggled stuff. Poked at the fan with a stick to make sure it still turned. Turns freely. Where else can I look to sort this out?
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Sep 13, 2016 01:26
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tactlessbastard posted:You're going to need a young priest an and old priest. I think you are on to something. All fuses check out in the engine bay block and under the dash. The resistor wire block thing for the fan looks to be in good condition. With the fan switch on MAX and trying various settings, all wires in the connector that go to the resistor block read 0v. On AC settings, the AC compressor doesn't seem to try to engage. Something is dead here and I don't know what. I need a Jeep oracle.
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Sep 14, 2016 02:57
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Jeep fan working again. Not repaired. Just left for Ron. Long story short, it was fuse 4 . Not blown, but... Something. Caseless , corroded at the blades and almost fused to the contacts. Around the fuse was melted / burned black too.
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Sep 15, 2016 07:15
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Geirskogul posted:You sprayed some lectra motive in there, right? Who, Me? No. Nothing in there would be lifted by a cleaner. Everything was clean. It's just that one fuse had... well fused. It's probably going to blow again anyway. I don't have the time or resources right now to fix it. The correct wiring diagram I actually found in a Jeep forum thread about modifying the fan wiring to add relays to stop the problem. I'll probably go through and do that later, but nicer looking with a proper relay block.
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Sep 16, 2016 05:53
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19?? car that goes vroom vroom *tink* (sound of nut falling off). Possibly a Ford. US Goons or anyone else that knows, I need some info. My swiss army knife carburettor lost it's butterfly shaft nut. It's a Holley 5200 2bbl or something close to it, from some smaller U.S. '70's car I guess. What size / thread is the butterfly shaft nut? The normal metric M6 seems about the right size but the wrong thread.
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Oct 6, 2016 05:27
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