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My Jeep has over thirty grease fittings that need to be hit during every oil change. I do it myself, but I'm real tempted to pay someone else to grease all the drat things.
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Feb 11, 2015 19:26
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Neptr posted:Does using tire slime make the tech's life miserable when he changes the tire? Very. They have to clean that poo poo out to mount a tire.
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Feb 14, 2015 20:11
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Yeah, you'd have to be a saint to not get frustrated answering that, I got a bit miffed just reading it. We know Kastein is no saint, just saying.
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Feb 20, 2015 17:12
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I've got a pretty nasty ticking sound coming from my Jeep's 4.0 (190,000 miles). The harshness of it makes me think that the exhaust leak has suddenly become worse, typically metal on metal is more clunky. I'm open to suggestions and will be taking the valve cover off after work (fortunately I mostly telecommute). I kinda need to reseal the oil pan eventually, so this might be a good excuse to drop it and look for chunks. This happened last night as I was getting onto the highway, lovely short onramp requires full throttle, shifted from third to fourth gear and this noise starts immediately. I didn't hit the rev limiter, if you're wondering. Louder with load, inconsistent at idle. No noticeable power loss or rough idle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8yPOV47xMTs Any ideas?
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Feb 25, 2015 16:01
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There may be quite a hefty core charge on there, though.
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Feb 27, 2015 07:14
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door Door door posted:With the demise of the FJ is the wrangler the only SUV they still make with a stick and manual transfer case? The rumor mill kinda indicates that the stick might be going away soon lol
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Mar 4, 2015 22:54
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Going to +1 the "cigarette stank never leaves a car". Hope you can flip it on CL 
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Mar 7, 2015 18:47
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 str, that's a terrible bit of advice. Blow up the starter, while driving with one hand holding the key.Get a ride to a shop for a replacement, or get it towed. The tow might cost less than munching a starter and the gear ring it turns. You can't replace that on lots of vehicles, gotta do the whole flywheel/flex plate.
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Mar 8, 2015 09:14
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Oh, I haven't delved into anything automatic and made more recently than my birth. I do remember my mechanically challenged aunt causing that exact failure when I was younger. Edit: I do have a somewhat stupid question, though. How do you go about disposing of a bucket that has a layer of oil on top of coolant? They came out of a ruined engine, coolant first, followed by oil. Do I need to attempt to get the oil off of the top, or what? EightBit fucked around with this message at 07:27 on Mar 9, 2015 |
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Mar 9, 2015 07:19
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Seconding kastein here, my TJ likes to do that in the summer. There's a TSB for it, in fact. Not covered by Chrysler, but they officially recognize the issue and there is a factory-approved repair method, which is to add a heat shield to the number 3 injector.
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Mar 13, 2015 18:28
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CharlesDexterWard posted:I've got a 2000 Toyota Celica and seem to be having issues with the car 'tram lining' on uneven roads. I don't really notice it much around town, usually at highway speeds if I go over a bump in the road I can feel the steering wheel move. On really bad roads with divots in the road the steering wheel will pull. It's not like I'm going to lose control but it still doesn't feel right. Did the alignment shop give you a printout of what the angles were before or after the alignment? Is this something that has been getting worse? All vehicles are going to follow road contours to an extent, some more than others due to steering design etc. If your caster angle is really low, then you will get more of that effect, for instance. It's normal to feel some pull on a road that is sloped to enhance drainage.
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Mar 23, 2015 18:42
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SperginMcBadposter posted:Speaking of steering feel, I've got some slight oscillating in my steering wheel at 60+mph. What I mean is I can feel the steering wheel alternate between pulling slightly left and right, and the speed it alternates changes with vehicle speed. Is this a needs alignment/worn out rubber suspension bits issue? Car is 2001 ford zx2. Yikes, sounds like worn out steering components. Not something that should be put off.
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Mar 23, 2015 22:02
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So, with a polished crank and a completely new set of bearings ordered by the shop that polished the crank, how necessary is it to plastigage all this poo poo as I put it together? Dude at the shop said it was unnecessary, but they mostly work on racing engines so I'm not sure if that's spillover from the world where engines come apart every few months anyway. This is for a Jeep 4.0 rebuild, by the way.
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Mar 24, 2015 04:06
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Decided to just deal with the ballache of using plastigage. Main bearings are good, gotta get the crank installed proper and do the piston checks.
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Mar 24, 2015 21:01
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I'll take the infrequently broken updates over Apple's  approach to consumer electronics, it's a loving pocket-sized computer, not just a toy.
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Mar 25, 2015 06:52
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Geirskogul posted:Note, the passcode to my knockoff dongle was 6789 or 4567 or something, not 0000 like standard. This wasn't documented and I thought it was broken for awhile. Mine was just like the passcode to my luggage 
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Mar 25, 2015 16:12
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Halogen bulbs are the standard headlight bulb, cheap, but the light output tends to be a little low compared to HID or LED. HID bulbs are more like a fluorescent light compared to a halogen; they generate a much brighter point of light, but require carefully tuned optics to avoid blinding other drivers at night. LED bulbs are just LEDs, cranked up to provide light for your car; they consume less power and last longer, but are brand new and thus significantly more expensive. You can't just swap in HID or LED lighting without going through the trouble to change the reflector/projector setup in your fixtures, or you will cause vision problems for other people on the road and you will get less effective lighting. It's not legal to do so in many jurisdictions, anyway.
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Mar 27, 2015 17:20
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+1 to replacing it. Oxygen sensors need to be hot to work.
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Apr 1, 2015 00:13
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tadashi posted:My 06 Hyundai Sonata (V6) has been overheating when I turn the AC on in heavy traffic lately. It has 104k miles on it. The radiator was replaced by a dealer service department about 6 months ago after I wrecked the front end pretty well Does it do this when moving? It's possible that your fan(s) aren't moving enough air, or any at all.
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Apr 8, 2015 02:15
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. I'd like to try to at least do some basic troubleshooting before I just take it to someone and they ask for the maximum amount of money possible.
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SperginMcBadposter posted:Is there a way to make tirerack let me choose sizes and bolt patterns manually? I want to buy a 15' 4x100mm pattern steel wheel but it only shows them in 14' for my car. It looks like you'll have to shop by brand to pick the wheel size and bolt pattern.
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Apr 11, 2015 02:50
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I have enough ground clearance to drain straight into a five gallon bucket. If you can't do that, transfer from your shorter drain pan to a five gallon bucket.
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Apr 11, 2015 23:53
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Dane posted:A colleague is translating a text which has the following sentence: I'm thinking that that refers to the differential, too. Though, to have "straight-cut" gears there, the pinion axis has to intersect the ring gear's axis. Older differentials actually used a worm-gear drive. Edit: in addition to the straight-cut gearbox, those things are pretty loud
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Apr 20, 2015 20:56
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Sweevo posted:Or possibly they used an instrument cluster from another model which has a choke, and if your van doesn't then it's just an unused light that isn't connected to anything. This. GM parts bin engineering.
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Apr 28, 2015 14:08
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Power Player posted:I want to learn how to drive stick. I know no one who drives a stick. Just buy one and drive it. You'll figure it out. Some helpful hints, though:
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Apr 29, 2015 19:04
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I don't trust the old mechanic's wisdom of using higher viscosity oil to reduce oil burning. Higher viscosity oil burns just the same. The thing is, it doesn't flow as easily, so less will get squirted onto your cylinder walls. You will see less smoke, because there's less oil there to burn in the first place. Without speccing your bearings for it or putting in an oil pump that can keep the flow up with higher viscosity and pressure, you shouldn't deviate from your manufacturer's viscosity specification. Accept that it's going to burn oil until you correct whatever situation is causing the oil burn (stuck rings, valve guide seals, etc.). That, or dump enough engine honey into it to dump it on CL and be that guy.
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Apr 30, 2015 20:58
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Leperflesh posted:I have to pass smog once every two years. I can go with a high-viscosity oil once every two years if that's what it takes. The oil that gets into your cylinder isn't what prevents wear, it's the amount that gets splashed on the back of the piston, which will be reduced with a higher viscosity oil.
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May 1, 2015 19:40
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Arriviste posted:Because OILCHAT I have to ask: I think it has more to do with older engines tending to have flat lifters or other parts that require higher zddp levels than newer oil blends provide. Even the supposed high-mileage oils aren't as high as what was used in the past, as zinc degrades catalytic converters. If you want the engine to last a long time, it wouldn't hurt to keep using whatever oil you were using and just add a zddp supplement. That is, if it has flat lifters.
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May 2, 2015 04:34
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If your engine has hydraulic lifters, it probably doesn't have any adjustment. If you have a bit of a tap, you should try to use a mechanic's stethoscope (a broom handle works) to locate the sound. Lots of things can cause taps, you gotta know what part of the engine is making noise.
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May 2, 2015 16:34
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Make sure that you change everything that requires separating the engine and transmission. Most clutch kits come with the necessary parts: clutch disc, pressure plate, release bearing, and pilot bearing. Might be a good time to do the rear main seal.
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May 6, 2015 04:59
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You might want to locate a slide hammer ahead of time, as it is the best way to pull pilot bearings. Don't be like me, and make sure that you get the alignment tool all the way into the pilot bearing!
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May 6, 2015 20:12
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taco_fox posted:1994 Chevy C1500 taco_fox posted:I only rotated them once in that period. This might have something to do with it. That, or you are overloading them.
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May 7, 2015 20:02
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PDP-1 posted:I've got an '04 Jeep Wrangler X and a set of mirror relocator brackets that bolt onto the sides for when I have the top off and half-doors on. The brackets mount on some factory Torx bolts that are painted and countersunk, and every time I mess with them the Torx wrench bites through the paint layer exposing the metal below causing the bolt to rust a bit. After ten years of repeating this procedure the nibs of the Torx sockets rusted out badly enough that one of them stripped clean off when I tried to remove it (top bolt in pic below). I'd suggest getting a permanent mirror relocation setup. Going doorless is supposed to be a spontaneous thing, and the easier it is to switch, the better. Or, you could get some factory half doors that have mirrors. The way the weather has been down here in Texas this spring has been pretty crazy the past few months, so I get a week or so of doorless weather, then it's two loving weeks of flash flood warnings. My mirrors just go in the hinges and require only one bolt, but that's still more than I want to do when the weather is being fickle.
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May 26, 2015 03:05
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It definitely warrants more investigation. Could be air in the lines, a leak somewhere, etc.
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Jun 4, 2015 19:26
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Your local auto parts store doesn't have engine enamel?
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Jun 8, 2015 06:52
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You have all the symptoms of a battery failure, don't discount it because everything outside the battery looks peachy keen. Did you at least try to measure the sitting voltage?
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Jun 12, 2015 03:32
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Motronic posted:That sounds a lot more like piston slap then rod knock. Yeah, that's what my 4.0 did for a while before it munched the piston completely.
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Jun 12, 2015 23:45
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No, I've driven plenty of vehicles with poo poo visibility and didn't have issues with hitting everything around me. It might not be correctable, just to be honest. Some people just don't have the spatial awareness wired up in their brains.
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Jun 18, 2015 23:41
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Mercury Ballistic posted:I had the same P0431 code a year back in my Tacoma. I ended up finding that a small hole in a vacuum hose was causing the EGR to perform poorly, and throwing the readings for the Cat off. This is my theory at least, since repairing the hose stopped the code from returning. Not saying it is your issue, but it could be another to consider. Jeeps with the 4.0 don't have an EGR, so this isn't his problem.
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Jun 22, 2015 16:39
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Elmnt80 posted:I had done this and I think I can hear a faint sound of metal scraping, but no resistance. I really only hear it when the engine is revving up above idle, so I dunno. I've already replaced the tensioner pulley while trying to track down the source of the squeal, so I'll probably just throw the other pulley at it when I'm at work tomorrow and call it good enough. Its not like pulling the belt off of a 5.3 in a truck is hard. A properly functioning idler pulley will have a bit of resistance, but it will turn completely smooth. If it has no drag, the seals have probably failed and the grease has escaped, the bearing rollers will follow suit shortly.
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Jun 23, 2015 03:57
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Gasoline is about 6.3 pounds per gallon (going to assume US units based on the .gov source). A full tank of gas in my jeep is approximately 19 gallons, so almost the weight of an average healthy woman. If you have a smaller tank, you might not notice the difference, but I can definitely feel the difference when I have two extra people.
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Jun 23, 2015 19:30
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