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Don't take your cell phone with you either. Don't want the feds to know you were at the burial site ever 
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Jun 23, 2015 22:07
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Am I right in thinking cars generally get better mileage at lower elevations? I'm thinking more oxygen, more complete combustion, more power for the fuel, further distance for a given amount of fuel. Assuming you don't have it tuned specifically for high elevation. I'm going to guess that it's the opposite. Higher elevations may limit the power output of your engine a bit, but they also have less drag. The thermodynamic efficiency of your engine shouldn't really be affected, it will produce less power, but should also burn less fuel as it breathes less air. Airliners don't fly up high for giggles and shits, they do it so they have to push less air around. It's probably more complicated than that and will vary based on engine control tech and body shape, though.
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Jun 24, 2015 18:14
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I wouldn't use a drag strip's times as a measure of fuel efficiency. It's already pretty clear that you will operate at a lower power level without boost. The question is if the reduced drag will outweigh the various inefficient ways that ECUs deal with higher altitude.
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Jun 24, 2015 18:25
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$5000 probably has a warranty longer than a month, if the junkyard specials even have one. It is a 14 year old car, so you have to decide if keeping it on the road in its current condition is worth it, or if you can put a junkyard engine in and sell it for a profit.
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Jun 25, 2015 21:56
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Higher compression definitely isn't the norm for American market vehicles. Even Mazda nerfed their high compression engines because people here can't be hosed to buy high octane gas for vehicles that need it most of the time.
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Jun 25, 2015 23:17
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What counts as "high compression"? I thought you weren't getting into that range until you were up past 12:1.
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Jun 26, 2015 16:06
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tritoch posted:Vehicle: 1995 Honda Civic EX 5MT Have you checked the relay bank that's right under the steering wheel? It might be called the main or master fuel relay switch etc., but is a common failure point on Hondas. Pull it out and use a soldering iron to temporarily melt all of the solder points on the little PCB.
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Jun 26, 2015 20:12
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Slavvy posted:If mad max were real the cars would be powered primarily by jeep I6's, Toyota 4 bangers of various kinds and the GM 3800. Mad Max with Jeep 4.0's would be pretty boring, tbh. Slow, reliable, and boring.
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Jul 3, 2015 04:51
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BeepBoopBatman posted:So while I was driving this lovely 1980 Dodge Sportsman RV (same one mentioned in previous ask), went over a bump, heard a sputter and then saw a solar flare burst out from under the steering column and straight for my crotch. Needless to say I poo poo myself and pulled over, the fire went out almost instantly. Did some digging and it looks like a lot of the tubing is dry rot to hell and back, and I'm guessing this particularly flammable one was for the power steering. Had it towed to somewhere that's closed and gonna have to wait til Monday to call and find out what the damage is. Any advice for something like this? How much can I expect to pay to have all the tubing and wiring for this ancient deathtrap made somewhat safe? What does a new RV cost?
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Jul 3, 2015 05:36
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So, are these notches worn into the wheel hub on my 2000 wrangler, driver front side, what is causing my wheel drag, and do I need to replace the whole thing to remedy the problem? The pads are asymmetrically worn on this one, so I know that I'll have to replace the fronts, at least. Edit: that's not the hub, what would I call that part? Edit 2: phone posting and forgot timg EightBit fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Jul 10, 2015 |
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Jul 9, 2015 23:57
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I remembered what it was called once I stepped into the shower. Unfortunately, I don't have a welder, nor can I easily get a decent one. No 220v connection except what the dryer uses, and it's a rented house. I need to check the other side for this and then fork out some more money to Rockauto. Local parts store wants literally double the price, though.
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Jul 10, 2015 01:01
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I sanded it smooth and put some grease on the part of the knuckle where the pads slide. I've got a bit of grabbing on that side, and it squeaks sometimes when not on the brakes. Bit of brake dust on that side that the other doesn't. I get paid on Wednesday, so much for that paycheck.
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Jul 10, 2015 01:08
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kid sinister posted:1. Use a continuity test on a multimeter for the bulb. If the test shows a complete circuit, then you know that the filament is still good. If the bulb is still good but it still won't come on, then switch the multimeter over to DC volts and check out the socket. See if you get around 12 volts coming out of the socket. I don't know where you live, but a taped up light doesn't pass inspection in Texas.
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Jul 17, 2015 20:43
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Oh I agree completely. Working on the issue. Stop letting him borrow it, problem solved  .
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Jul 22, 2015 20:36
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Natty Ninefingers posted:1997 Toyota Corolla LE stick shift. lovely battery connections, low fuel, hosed power steering in some way, some other wiring problems. Can you tilt it up with a jack while it runs?
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Jul 23, 2015 03:01
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I would give the u joint a few good smacks with the biggest hammer you can get, then try to pry between the diff flange and the u joint.
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Jul 27, 2015 16:59
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Yinzer posted:I have a question in regards to parts. Don't they make OEM and aftermarket stuff in the same factory, on the same assembly lines and just stamp in a brand? While I imagine that there is some badge-engineering going on for parts, in my experience, it isn't the norm. Depending on the make and part, OEM might be crap-tier while aftermarket stuff might be better, but that varies wildly across the industry. It is definitely a faux pas to bring your own parts to a mechanic, especially if you're expecting a warranty on work. Some mechanics may make a markup on parts, but mostly they stick to their suppliers so they can make warranty claims on parts, too.
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Jul 30, 2015 16:39
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Gear number selection in autos is always a suggestion, usually ignored once you get over a certain speed/RPM. They usually start in that gear and then shift up, though this varies wildly by make and model.
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Aug 3, 2015 23:21
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Another easy way is to look at your brake master cylinder fluid level; if you don't have leaks and haven't topped it off, it will move down as the pads wear.
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Aug 4, 2015 04:08
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SlayVus posted:Anything I should do to figure out what caused this break? I've already ordered a replacement part, but I don't want it to break in me because the one I bought was the only one I could find. You can't really weld on that bracket, it will just burn through. They are cast from pretty lovely metal, so it probably had fatigue failure. Newer 4.0 alternator brackets have a different design that doesn't appear to have that sharp neck taking all the stress, so I'm guessing that someone figured out that this was a common and preventable failure.
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Aug 14, 2015 20:32
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The bearings in the rear axle of my Jeep (dana 35 axle, btw) are lubricated by gear oil in the differential case. I don't see a pump anywhere in that thing, how the gently caress do the bearings get enough oil? Surely it's not just a case of hoping that you take corners hard enough to sling oil down the tube, because I do lots of straight-line highway driving, and the factory bearing lasted 195,000 miles.
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Aug 17, 2015 19:42
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In addition to the electrical woes, seals on passenger vehicles almost never stand up to immersion. You'll have water in all of the mechanical bits that were soaked. Wheel bearings, probably your transmission, any differentials, etc. It will be less than if you had been driving through it, but enough to warrant replacing all of those lubricants; I wouldn't be surprised if you couldn't repack any of the wheel bearings and had to replace them instead.
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Aug 28, 2015 15:48
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He's following the typical goon-asking-for-advice scenario to a tee, though. 
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Aug 28, 2015 18:29
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O2 sensors are extremely sensitive to bad crimps and wrong materials. You can't solder the connector on or use the wrong metal in the connector or you'll throw off the voltage reading.
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Sep 1, 2015 01:57
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DreadLlama posted:Question 2: Did you notice that alternators tend to have smaller pulleys than the drive pulley on the crankshaft? Most automotive alternators aren't designed to spin fast, because they don't need to. That F1 alternator does it probably because it weighs less than having a gearbox etc., but you aren't willing to spend F1 levels of money, I'm guessing. If you're looking to make a wood gas fueled turbo-generator for your house, you wouldn't be running it off of the turbocharger's shaft, anyway. Take the exhaust side of another turbo and attach the input to the exhaust of the primary; drive a planetary reduction box off of that shaft, to an alternator. You'll definitely want a wastegate to control the pressure and rpm of the alternator side, and that will allow the thing to adapt to load faster than trying to spin up the primary. What you'll be doing is making a wood-fueled gas generator, powering a turbine driven alternator. I wouldn't expect to get more than 2kW out of most automotive alternators, so you'll have to figure out where you'll source one large enough for your house's demands or how to make multiple alternators work. You'll go through all that trouble and math and design time, then look at the energy density of wood in an industrial gasifier unit, realize that you won't hit that with a homebrew device, and throw it all in the trash because you can't burn down a small forest every day to keep your house running. Not to mention that you'll have to shut it down periodically to clean out all the soot. If you make a single-stage gasifier, your turbos won't last long, the gas coming out of those is filthy, lots of tar and ash paticles that high rpm spinny things don't like. Your backyard will be dominated by a loud, stinky, dirty machine that I'm sure your neighbors will love. Look at all this for inspiration on buliding a working gas generator, if you want to gently caress around with this stuff for fun: Colin Furze
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Sep 3, 2015 06:29
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Friar Zucchini posted:So stoplights and manuals. Neutral while braking or no? I've been dailying a five-speed for several months now and for smoothness' sake I put it in neutral while braking to a stop. I just watched a video on the very basics of how to drive a manual car to see if there was something I missed, and the guy said you put unnecessary stress on your transmission if you leave it in neutral, so to avoid that you should always leave it in gear and downshift as you slow down. I do understand how a manual works with the clutch and syncros and all, so what stress is caused here if I just leave it in neutral and keep it smooth? I've mostly thought of rev-matching as racetrack business for people who are actually good at a manual and are driving to the car's absolute limits. You could be starving parts of the transmission of oil if you coast in neutral for too long, but that depends on the design of the oil slinger(s) in your transmission; if you want to be certain you'll have to find a detailed diagram of the moving parts in it. Just so we're clear, though: don't keep your foot on the clutch pedal unless you are shifting; riding the clutch pedal is a surefire way to prematurely wear out your throwout bearing, which requires 95% of the work of replacing the clutch to replace, so you'll end up paying for a new clutch too. You don't need to downshift through all of your gears when you are coming to a stop. Just riding the one you're in until you are near idle rpm is usually fine, or just going down one gear if the engine wasn't spinning very fast. You don't need to be perfect to rev match, just close enough that the synchros don't need to work too much.
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Sep 4, 2015 03:11
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Geoj posted:Even if no flywheel bolts have a torque spec that high (I've encountered it a few times, but my anecdotal evidence doesn't count for poo poo unlike your's, right?) can you think of a reason to not use new bolts on a flywheel that requires removing the transmission to get at? Sourcing new flywheel bolts can be a pain in the rear end. Even if you can find a set, they usually cost  amounts of money. I understand that they are a critical part, but they are almost always overengineered. If you're tight on cash and they don't look hosed up, as in no stripped threads, no necking out, etc., then you will be fine reusing them.
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Sep 14, 2015 00:34
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$5 per bolt certainly is pricey, and I've seen kits for Jeep 4.0 engines over $50. They are made of pretty high strength steel to cost that much.
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Sep 14, 2015 02:49
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Away all Goats posted:I'm curious what are goons thoughts on 'sipping the clutch' (besides starting from a stop/1st gear)? As long as you don't slip the clutch for more than a second and don't lug the engine, you're doing fine. You don't need to downshift to stop, but it does improve your fuel consumption a little bit, and is useful for descending hills. If you're in a panic braking situation, just push the clutch and let the brakes do their job; they'll be smoother than your engine braking (which is critical on a slippery surface or just maximum braking), you won't stall the engine, which allows you to focus on avoiding obstacles. If you don't match the revs perfectly for downshifting, you are causing extra wear to your synchronizers if you downshift a lot without finesse. Which will lead to you having to match the revs or get your transmission serviced. I've driven a vehicle with bad synchros, it sucks.
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Sep 16, 2015 06:26
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PaintVagrant posted:Do you mean when downshifting? If so, you need to learn to revmatch as mentioned earlier in the thread, by blipping the throttle right before letting the clutch out. If you match the revs with the roadspeed, your downshift can be as smoother than an automatics. This video's technique is not what you're supposed to do when rev-matching. He doesn't double clutch, so the synchros are still getting overworked. The throttle blip has to occur with the clutch pedal released, gear lever in neutral; this spins up the clutch disk and input shaft so that the synchronizers barely have to change their rotating speed. Once you've spun up the clutch disk, you push the clutch pedal and shift into a lower gear.
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Sep 16, 2015 15:39
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The Ferret King posted:This is the first time I've read about double clutching being recommended for cars with synchros. Rather, usually recommendations to double clutch are soon followed by people saying it is not necessary if you have synchronized gears. Synchronizers are wear items as well, though they are quite a bit harder and more expensive to replace than a clutch. They don't have to do much when you are upshifting, as the clutch disk will spin down a bit just from bearing drag, but if you inelegantly slam your transmission into a lower gear, you put an abrupt and heavy load on that synchronizer. You can't shift a manual transmission without something doing the work of changing the clutch disk speed to match the gear you want to shift to. When you do it perfectly, there is no resistance on the gear lever, it just slides right in. Shifting too fast, without revmatching, you can feel resistance as the synchronizer hasn't synchronized the input shaft with the countershaft; when you really slam it you'll feel the lock ring working, too. So many youtube videos show people slamming the lever around, which wrecks the internals. Keep abusing your synchronizers and you'll end up with a notchy gearbox. Double-clutch downshifting is a technique to extend the life of your wear parts, or to work around a worn out synchronizer. Some transmissions have weak synchros that you can wreck with just a few bad shifts (NV3550 3rd gear being one of them, it is basically a piece of glorified sandpaper glued to a steel ring), so knowing how to do this can come in real handy if you have an older vehicle with a manual transmission.
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Sep 16, 2015 20:16
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If you have to deal with throttle-by-wire combined with a manual, it might be worth your time to see if you can get it programmed to reduce lag.
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Sep 17, 2015 02:41
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You could just do it the redneck way and replace it with a cable-operated throttle. My dd doesn't even have ABS, so I can't give you any advice on removing electronic nannies, and whether or not your ECU will bitch if you do.
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Sep 17, 2015 19:51
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DBW throttles allow manufacturers to keep their engines in a certain efficiency window and make cruise control and traction control just a matter of adjusting the throttle plate. I know why they are in vehicles, I just think that the response curves for many of them are dangerously slow and add difficulty to driving a manual that didn't exist for many vehicles ten years ago. If I were in charge of integrating them into vehicles, full throttle would be "loving GO" for safety reasons, but gladly, I'm not: I hate designing purposely gimped products because people are loving stupid.
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Sep 18, 2015 05:34
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Three-Phase posted:Question: I have a 2011 Honda Fit that I might sell at some point. They didn't align that when they did your alignment? It should be part of the procedure. If this was done recently, I would go in and bitch until they align your steering wheel too.
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Sep 22, 2015 23:10
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scuz posted:Sweet deal, thanks dude! Phew, I hope I only have to rebuild the head and I can leave the engine in the car. There's a pretty good chance you can do the valve stem seals with the head on the engine. You will have to do something to keep the valve from falling in, either: using a compression tester fitting and some compressed air (10-20 psi should do it, I think), or stuffing the cylinder with nylon rope.
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Sep 25, 2015 16:03
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Geoj posted:Stupid short trip question - my wife works 9/10 of a mile from home. She also routinely comes home for lunch, so on a given week her car is driven on 10-20 less than 1 mile trips. We also regularly use her car for other trips besides commuting to work so it gets run up to temperature almost daily beyond the short commute trips. The main problems with short trips are buildup of water and fuel in your oil, batteries take a bit to recharge, and carbon can build up in your piston rings and valves. Running it up to temperature daily will help resolve lots of that. You might want to get it warm then floor it getting on the highway once a week or so to really help keep the carbon down. There isn't much you can do about the frequent heat cycling, though, so do expect things to wear out faster regardless of the daily run up to temperature. Follow the scheduled maintenance guidelines for severe driving conditions, etc.
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Sep 25, 2015 18:40
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You've already ruled out the charging system for the most part and the battery is old enough that I would just preemptively change it instead of being stuck or late for work etc.
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Sep 30, 2015 23:56
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I'd be worried about your water pump with those symptoms, but try the radiator cap first as it is cheaper.
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Oct 4, 2015 17:45
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M42 posted:08 honda civic auto. Started making a whining noise that matches with RPM on the first cool day of the year. Crappy video: It is very hard to hear in that video. Does it occur when turning?
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Oct 7, 2015 03:26
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