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Just got a transmission rebuild on my evo 9. The car is still on jacks, not running. I just got the trans and shift linkage installed and I'm testing the gears. 1 through 6 engage perfectly. I can't engage the reverse gear. Does the car need to be running in order to engage reverse? Or is it more likely that the rebuild was done incorrectly?
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Feb 21, 2015 21:24
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 14:22 |
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I spun the crank to spin the trans shafts on and out of drive gear with no luck, I'm really reluctant to get everything back together and on the ground but I guess I have no choice. gently caress.
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Feb 21, 2015 21:39
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ROFLburger posted:Just got a transmission rebuild on my evo 9. The car is still on jacks, not running. I just got the trans and shift linkage installed and I'm testing the gears. 1 through 6 engage perfectly. I can't engage the reverse gear. Does the car need to be running in order to engage reverse? Or is it more likely that the rebuild was done incorrectly? So I got the car assembled and running. drove around the block, but could not engage reverse. I tried a few things and found that while stationary, cycling into a few of the drive gears before attempting to engage reverse does the trick. Popping it into 1st -> 2nd -> 6th (or whatever) and then reverse engages perfectly smooth. Anyone know what the hell that's all about? Is engaging the other gears first like slightly rotating the shaft enough to get dog teeth in on reverse? From what I've read it seems this isn't particularly abnormal on this car, even after a rebuild, so I'm not really concerned about it. Does anyone think I should be?
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Feb 23, 2015 02:57
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kastein posted:Did you do the rebuild or have it rebuilt? The reverse idler's dog tooth tips are probably a bit blunted, as well as the ones they mesh with. I had it rebuilt. The rebuild kit came with all of the synchros and bearings and poo poo, not sure if it included a reverse idler? I doubt it, but I also don't really know what I'm talking about. I really wanted to rebuild it myself but figured it was probably way over my head.
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Feb 23, 2015 04:44
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I just posted this in the Evo/DSM thread ( http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3380267&pagenumber=31#post441997244 ) but that thread is a ghost town, hope it's not a problem if I ask here too for some exposure: AI I need your help. I posted about this a while ago but I'm still trying to diagnose a deceleration noise with my Evo 9, 6 speed. Videos this time. Happens in any gear when I take my foot off of the gas in gear and let the engine slow the car. Ive had the car for 9,000 miles and it has always had this problem. I just had the transmission rebuilt because a shaft bearing had blown - new synchros, bearings, springs, etc. The gears all looked great. I thought that surely the bearing had one foot in the grave and was causing the noise and that a rebuild would resolve it. Well, 100 miles with the rebuilt trans and the noise has come back and I'm losing my mind. Everything I've read about this issue on evolutionM suggests that it's either a shaft bearing (this fast after a rebuild?) my ACT street clutch (got a new one during the rebuild) that's transmitting more vibration to the trans and through The Magic Of Harmonics this noise is a consequence. I haven't done any hard pulls or hard driving since the rebuild so I feel like a second immediately failing bearing is pretty unlikely. I've put the car on a lift with a stethoscope in the past and the source of the noise is almost definitely the transmission, don't think It's from the transfer case. Noise is strongest on the driver side while driving. It shifts great and no other problems aside from this. These videos don't really don't really make it clear just how loud this poo poo is Third gear: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xeSBganMKFA Third gear, windows rolled up: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lrjd3-RWjIQ Fifth gear, higher pitch noise: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jAesYMTH9Eg Any thoughts? Anyone have an aftermarket clutch introduce noises like this? Any advice would be appreciated
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Feb 25, 2015 02:21
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Blow posted:I jacked it up today and looked at the disc. The inner side of the disc is completely hosed. All gouged and scored badly. Why does it seem like you're ignoring this? Even if your brakes work fine now, you should check this out? While on jacks, remove the tire and have someone turn the steering wheel while you're watching the inside of the assembly to figure out what is loving your disc, right? I mean even if the noise ends up being a turd wheel bearing I would be worried about the disc.
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Mar 27, 2015 06:56
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Has anyone ever encountered intermittent rod knock? My 06 Evo is making a noise that sounds like rod knock at idle and very low rpm that goes away when I Rev 1500+. it started half way through my 500MI road trip when I noticed it while stopped at a gas station. The thing is, at the next gas stop, I didn't hear the noise at all. I popped the hood at idle and it sounded perfect. Then the next gas station I heard it again at idle. Then I finally got home and I'm not hearing it at all now. I'm kinda making GBS threads bricks about this.
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Jun 12, 2015 04:34
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Yeah, I had the ac off. Good call I'm going to keep a stethoscope with me. and ratchet too so I can briefly remove the serpentine belt in hopes that it's an accessory
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Jun 12, 2015 04:52
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ROFLburger posted:Has anyone ever encountered intermittent rod knock? Hey guys. My tapping/knocking noise is still here. It went away for a good 5-7 days, but now its back. Using a mechanic's stethoscope, the noise is most certainly in the head (though it can still be heard on the top of the block). It's loudest on the corner towards the passenger, right next to the MIVEC sprocket. Could you guys take a quick listen to a video I just made? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3J_XnmVnA5g You can't see poo poo, but the hood is popped and I'm hovering my phone about a foot or two above the valve cover. I gave it a little throttle towards the end to show how it increases with RPM. I've never dealt with lifter issues in the past, but from what I've read, it sounds consistent? Just wanted your guys' opinions This dude had a very similar noise and he said new lifters resolved the issue https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vivA0FeiFno
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Jul 1, 2015 05:41
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If I'm replacing a noisey valve lifter, is it advisable to replace all of the lifters? Or can I get away with replacing just one? I don't give a poo poo if I have to go back in and replace a different lifter in 4 months. I don't mind the work. 4g63 evo for reference, if it matters
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Jul 1, 2015 23:33
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Astonishing Wang posted:If you're doing one you might as well do them all IMO. Is there any issue with replacing lifters and NOT replacing the pushrods? DOHC, no pushrods. I can't imagine the problem isn't the lifters but I also don't k ow very much about cylinder heads. I'm just wondering if I'm at risk for any other issues by only replacing one of the lifters, like magical oil pressure issues or uneven wear patterns
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Jul 1, 2015 23:54
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getting single pop/tap noise when i accelerate form a dead stop and also when i brake. it sounds like maybe some bushing or elbow might be all dired/worn out. noise is coming from the passenger side wheel well. It's a AWD, lancer evolution. I've taken the drat suspension assembly apart and put it back together, but i can not for the life of my find a culprit. anyone encounter something like this before? is there a usual suspect?
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Sep 8, 2015 04:29
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poo poo. How popular are those tire shaving machines? I need to replace a ruined tire, but I'm on an AWD car and there's about 16 months worth of wear on them and I don't want to damage a diff. Can I take my car to most places for a replacement and have a tire's tread adjusted?
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Oct 3, 2015 02:36
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Why do service manuals always warn so heavily against turning the crank counter clockwise? Just the timing belt being liable to skip a tooth?
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Nov 24, 2015 22:37
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I know this is a stupid question but I don't know anything about welding. Why are welds often done in small spots as opposed to welding the entire surface area between two parts? Is there a reason? Visually, it looks like the welds would be a weak point example: 
ROFLburger fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Jan 5, 2016 |
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Jan 5, 2016 05:21
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2006 Mitsubishi evo wont start. Will not turn over and I dont hear the (loud) fuel pump priming, so i dont suspect a starter problem. Ignition fuse is in good shape. Battery reads 14v. Any ideas?
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Feb 22, 2016 16:29
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Mom's 2003 eclipse with ~130k miles. All of the sudden simultaneously throwing 3 codes: P0335 - Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction P0340 - Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction P0174 - System Too Lean (Bank 2) Bank 2 was running LTFT(according to code reader) of like 15% and STFT of 20% so I feel like P0174 is legitimate. P0340, though? How is the car even running with a crankshaft position sensor malfunction? And accompanied by P0340 at the same time? Something seems weird here. Anyone see anything like this before?
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Feb 26, 2016 04:29
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Yeah, a few times over the years
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Feb 26, 2016 05:16
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Not sure if this is the best place for this question. Evo 9, getting stutters/hiccups at peak boost (~29psi, e85). It's not fuel cut, and there is no recorded knock whatsoever when it happens. I tried replacing the plugs with 1 step colder iridium plugs from NGK, properly gapped, no help. Any ideas? Considering replacing plug wires and boots out of desperation.
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Jun 29, 2016 02:56
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some texas redneck posted:I'll admit I don't know the first thing about Evos, but I know high boost applications have issues with the spark being able to jump the gap. Thanks! I remember reading about closing the gap as boost is increased, I'm going to try this when I get home
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Jun 29, 2016 18:37
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What is the likelihood that an oil cap with a tablespoon of milky poo poo in it is not a headgasket issue? Buddy has a 2007 honda civic with 200k miles, noticed coolant is disappearing pretty quickly. We found a small leak underneath the vehicle that we haven't fixed yet, but we also found the milky oil cap. Going to fix the leak this weekend but I'm kind of curious how often you find a white milky oil cap that isn''t necessarily a dead HG.
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Mar 2, 2017 03:19
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`Nemesis posted:
Oil on the dipstick looks normal
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Mar 2, 2017 03:41
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Anyone have a trick on reducing the gap on iridium plugs? Too tough to do by hand with the coin style tool and I can't seem to find any place that sells those pliers that will gap them for you.
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May 8, 2017 02:51
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balls. everyone on this tuning site seems to suggest buying iridium and gapping to 20. I'll just buy copper and reorder properly gapped iridium
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May 8, 2017 03:33
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I managed to strip a tough little 14mm bolt on the end of my camshaft that holds the cam angle ring (the metal shroud that the sensor reads) to the camshaft. I've never really had a bolt stripped like this, is it worth picking up those stripped-bolt-remover sockets and giving it a go or should I just take the cam to a machine shop and have them remove it?
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May 30, 2017 19:24
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Anyone have experience with those portable swamp coolers in a garage that doesn't really have the ducting/support for something like that? It's 120 loving degrees here in Phoenix and I'm wondering if I could see much benefit of closing the garage door like 60% and putting a portable evap cooler at the ground level just below the agrage door pumping in cooler air
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Jun 24, 2017 00:24
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Any recommendations for an online retailer that sells nuts and bolts?
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Aug 9, 2017 18:09
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timing belt skipped, have a question this morning I tried to start the car and I heard some loud pops while cranking and it wouldn't start. I took the timing cover off and noticed the timing had skipped because there was a good bit of play on one side of the belt. What is the proper procedure for diagnosing valve damage? Should the head be removed and inspected, or would a new timing kit and a passing leakdown test be suitable?
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Dec 17, 2017 03:39
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2006 Mitsubishi evo 9
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Dec 17, 2017 03:49
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Anyone know of a place that rents engine hoists? Need to pull the bottom end out of my car and would rather not buy a hoist that I'll only use a couple of times
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Dec 21, 2017 15:45
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Looking for advice on a p0171 code on my 4 cylinder 1998 ford ranger The OBD reader snapshot says at the time the code was thrown it had: LTFT 13%, STFT 3%, RPM 2500 Car takes a lot of cranking to start, and when it starts it idles like poo poo. Once it gets warmed up I can give the throttle about 50% and the car will slowly increase RPMs and after like 5 seconds it will 'wake up' and rev really quickly, like it normally would. At this point it idles a little bit better and I can drive it around. When I can drive it around town at a decent load, it runs alright so it doesn't seem like fuel pressure is a likely issue. Things I've done: Cleaned the maf (it wasn't dirty to begin with). This had no effect Found and repaired a few vacuum leaks. This improved the issue a bit I don't have a smoke machine and I'm wondering in your guys' experience: how likely is it that I have a dying MAF vs some other vacuum leak that I can't find?
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May 13, 2018 17:38
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Is there a place online where I can get a service manual for a 1998 2.5 ford ranger? Free or at a cost? Googling around brings me to a bunch of bullshit sites that don't actually have the manual.
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May 22, 2018 17:33
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Autozone doesn't have one for my vehicle 
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May 22, 2018 18:43
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Is there an online retailer where I can buy shims of various sizes? Trying to get my transmission into spec. I see grainger sells shims but you have to buy them in packs of 20 and i really only need one or two of a few different sizes
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Apr 19, 2019 17:44
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are there any open source, or affordable, options for hooking a laptop up to my cars computer so i can view fuel trims, sensor readouts, etc through the obd port?
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Apr 13, 2021 23:52
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Krakkles posted:If you're open to using your phone instead of a laptop, there's a number - ELM327 is the search term for a bluetooth adapter. Lots of people report problems with the really cheap ones, so don't buy the cheapest one you find, and bear in mind that if you're using an iPhone you need a wifi module, not bluetooth. any recommendations on an app that can use that device? just bought one
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Apr 14, 2021 00:38
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 14:22 |
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can drive by wire systems cause issues like dying at idle once the car's warmed up? it looks like it's all just one unit that sits on the throttle body instead of being able to service the TPS or IAC individually. do these modules that sit on top of the TB fail as often as an IAC motor would?
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Jul 17, 2022 05:10
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