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Stupid questions on Moog repair parts for my 87 B2000. A couple of tie rod ends I have from Moog are from their "problem solver" line and came with a grease fitting in the baggie with the castle nut and cotter pin. Are these pre-greased or do I need to install the fitting and grease it myself? And for the other related parts (the opposite tie rod ends and the pittmann arms) that aren't "problem solver" -- those are already greased and sealed, right?
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Feb 11, 2015 03:19
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kastein posted:If they include a grease zerk and a hole to screw it into, you need to screw it in and fill it with grease at least once, and preferably regularly. If not, fill it with grease once and then put a threaded plug in instead of the zerk, if you leave the hole wide open it'll quickly fill with road debris and water and/or salt and ruin the new joint.
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Feb 11, 2015 03:28
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kastein posted:There is no such thing as a cheap grease gun, or even a medium price grease gun, that isn't infuriating to try and get bled and then keep working, but it'll get you through at least half a TRE fill before it stops pumping grease and makes you want to whoop it into the dumpster. Also will the zerk need any kind of cover once everything is finished?
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Feb 11, 2015 16:02
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Okay, HF grease gun and grease has been acquired. Now...was grease supposed to start coming out of the boot when the joint was full? Because that kinda left me 
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Feb 11, 2015 22:01
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oh thank god. (and thank you)
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Feb 11, 2015 22:09
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(another) 87 Mazda B2000 question: I want to swap out my shocks since god knows how old they are, probably starting with the front pair. Looking at this video it seems straight forward but do I need to worry about the control arm wanting to move downward as the old shock is removed like when replacing stabilizer bar end links? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rUrTvupmDP0 Since I have to do the end links anyways what do you use to keep the control arm from pushing downward, one those coil spring compressors?
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Feb 25, 2015 20:33
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InitialDave posted:When you say the control arm moving down "like when doing end links", are you jacking up one side at a time? Because that's not such an issue for the damper, but makes your life artificially difficult for stuff relating to the anti-roll bar, as the two sides will fight each other to try and level the suspension. You can much about with trying to restrain the suspension movement somehow, but it's easier to do as Slavvy said and use the jack if you need to, or you may even find it unnecessary if you have both wheels off the ground. Slavvy posted:No. The arm is already lowered as far as it can go, your shock isn't what stops it drooping further. If I'm wrong it is not remotely a big deal, just lift it with your jack.
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Feb 26, 2015 01:57
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87 Mazda B2000 I'm replacing the inner and outer tie rod ends. I didn't notice in my Haynes manual if the stud needed to be centered properly before the nuts are tightened down or if I could just eyeball it. Anyone know the answer?
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Mar 14, 2015 01:04
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Going to post this again since it looks like it got lost at the very end of the last page.Parts Kit posted:87 Mazda B2000
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Mar 15, 2015 03:55
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Raluek posted:I think he's asking if centering the sleeve over the two tie rod ends is critical. It's not, but you should do what you can to get them fairly close. When I did mine I just spun both sides into the sleeve a certain number of turns, then installed it, and adjusted its length once it was on the car. Then take it to get aligned! 
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Mar 15, 2015 12:58
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I want to paint my wheels on the 87 B2000 since they are old ugly condition chrome dealies, but I am lazy and do not wish to either remove the tires from the wheels nor do the thing with a bajillion 3x5 note cards. Since the tires are old as poo poo and will need to be replaced in the next year anyways is there any reason why I shouldn't just go ahead and scrub the wheels down and paint it as is? Looking ugly until this set is replaced is no big deal, making trouble for whoever gets to do the next tire swap would be a problem.
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May 14, 2015 17:02
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No it's just kind of an  thing to go through for old crappy tires that will be replaced soonish on a beat rear end truck. If it's not going to cause someone at a tire shop problems or create some safety issue I'm oblivious of I don't think it's worth the effort to do the index card thing.If I already had new tires mounted it wouldn't be a question, I'd just suck it up. But I don't so I just want to make sure of the above.
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May 14, 2015 18:07
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Ran across this "electric supercharger" on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Intak...b2e8017&vxp=mtr Do these things actually do anything other than cost money? I'm thinking it might be funny to rig up something similar but way way cheaper on my not-even-90hp 87 Mazda B2000, assuming they do anything.
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May 17, 2015 00:32
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InitialDave posted:Yes, they also add an obstruction to the intake system. Haha, so yeah, crap. But the twin leaf blower was pretty funny, I think that'd actually be appropriate for the truck. 
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May 17, 2015 00:51
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Geoj posted:Pretty much any car system that purports to create way more energy than it consumes is suspect - you can't make a shitload of power from a relatively low-draw electric motor.  Really the best thing for the truck would be to replace the horrible vacuum driven mess of a carb with a Weber. Maybe the distributor too since I think that has a vacuum advance as well. 
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May 17, 2015 13:19
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PaintVagrant posted:Civic Si 2007 http://civic.hondafitjazz.com/A00/HTML/11/SNB6E11K73300000000BBAT00.html Also check your fuse and relay for the compressor clutch.
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May 20, 2015 02:29
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Has anyone here tried making a car computer / media center with a raspberry pi as the main bit? I was mulling that over the other day. It seems some people have already done this too. http://www.instructables.com/id/Raspberry-Pi-Touch-Screen-Car-Computer/
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May 27, 2015 14:54
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Cthulhuite posted:I've had a look at it myself in the past, and after seeing that instructable and the mess he made of the dash (It looks like the screen was just taped to some plastic he glued in there) I'd suggest you purchase a HDMI-enabled touchscreen screen that fits into a DIN slot, like this one. As the Raspberry Pi has a HDMI port you can just plug it straight in. Then it's just a matter of installing your preferred operating system and apps. There are countless options there, it all depends on your preference, but here's a couple of suggestions for Car-Specific software installs. Dashwerks or Headunit would probably be the best for Linux-based solutions. Safety Dance posted:We've got a Raspberry Pi at the hackerspace that boots automatically and displays information for the bus stop outside. It works pretty well. All you'd need is a small touchscreen monitor, an aux jack for your stereo, and an SD card with your favorite flavor of linux on it.
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May 27, 2015 16:09
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Safety Dance posted:As long as you're not actively writing to disk, you should be able to just cut power no problem.
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May 27, 2015 21:20
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Swapping a stereo is pretty dang easy. If you google your make/model/year you should find instructions on places like ehow and instructables. Also try youtube, though the videos will likely be of lovely quality. The only thing that jumps out at me is I think part of the original dash will have to be replaced with something with a single or dual DIN slot since from my mom's Taurus of that time period I think they were making the everything custom set up for the ford factory stuff instead of a DIN slot setup. That shouldn't be too bad, for instance a replacement dash bit for my 06 Civic was something like $60 from amazon and it was a pretty dang big piece. For what it's worth on my 04 Wrangler the sales guy at Best Buy quoted me something like $60 parts/labor on top of whatever stereo I would buy from them before I looked it up and decided to get something off amazon and do the job myself. If you literally just want a new not crazy fancy one swapped in and don't want anything else those sound absurd to me. At least assuming the $210 one is just labor that is, if it's the whole thing it might be ok once you factor in the dash stuff and a basic ~$100 stereo.
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May 27, 2015 22:49
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I have no idea if there is a mirror button standard but if so there's always the nearest auto parts store.
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May 28, 2015 01:46
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My sis has had an 01 Escape for at least a good 10 years now. It's not an amazing vehicle but it works well. Only thing is there have been several recalls related to those vehicles in that time frame so make sure to do your homework.
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Jun 11, 2015 17:34
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2002 Ford Escape, v6 engine: engine light came on, code indicates one of the upstream 02 sensors is bad. Local chains want $45 per sensor for what is $25 per on Rockauto or Amazon. Would it be risky to the engine to operate it as is while the parts come in or would lovely gas mileage be the only concern? We're talking a week, tops.
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Jun 24, 2015 00:11
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Astonishing Wang posted:You'll be fine, just make sure you get a sensor that is at least as good as the OEM. I used a bosch sensor in my jeep and it didn't fix it - put in the NTK sensor and all was well.
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Jun 24, 2015 02:01
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Here's a stupid question: what's a good way to remove thoroughly melted trash bags from a pickup bed? At least I think that's what's there. poo poo's been there since some time before I bought it and the needle scaler I tried today didn't do much. It was pretty brittle in the winter but not in the summer heat today, hopefully I don't have to wait until winter to not drive myself nuts removing the poo poo. Also I'm repainting when I'm done so paint damage is not a concern here.
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Jun 26, 2015 04:43
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Arriviste posted:Since preserving the paint is not a concern, I'd try acetone. Gasoline might do the trick, as well. I've heard that Castrol Superclean is powerful stuff, but haven't had the opportunity to try it yet. StormDrain posted:Have you applied a heat gun? Might soften it up and hey good excuse to get a heat gun.
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Jun 26, 2015 18:56
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tritoch posted:Accelerate the cooling with Dry Ice. It's commonly used to remove sound deadening.
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Jun 27, 2015 02:10
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Was looking up info on rod knock, found this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIOdS7XbHys Am I missing something or is that an incredibly stupid way to go about this? He's got arcs flying and at 1:15 in particular got them coming off the bolts for the valve cover. 
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Jul 21, 2015 05:23
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IOwnCalculus posted:Meatpimp: I'd try any of the chemical rust removers but I don't know how you'd get something like Evaporust to stay put on a table surface. I think there might be a more gel-like option though?
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Jul 21, 2015 21:58
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Extra posted:and here's what I'm looking at:
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Jul 28, 2015 02:56
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Pham Nuwen posted:I just bought a 1986 Mazda B2000 that I know basically nothing about because the PO was some shady dude who met me in a parking lot. Still, the truck was cheap... Anyway, I've got a couple questions. Speaking of the 87, has anyone here attempted a carb to fuel injected conversion, on any vehicle really, before? I'm curious just how much of a pain in the rear end it is.
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Aug 14, 2015 20:56
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Pham Nuwen posted:I still need to figure out what's going on with my carb... it's loving nuts, I think it's so huge due to some sort of emissions thing. Also if you have to replace the pitman arm (mine had a toast balljoint) be careful not to warp the splines it goes on when torquing it to the specified over 100 ft-lbs. Did that myself which gave the alignment shop guys a bit of a fit.  I didn't seen anything in the Haynes manual warning about this or how to avoid it so yeah. If you end up having to replace the oil pan gasket you will end up wanting to kill yourself. You have to remove the steering linkage and a frame crossmember to get the thing enough clearance to drop, and then you get to figure out how to rtv two surfaces at once since there's an oil baffle that goes between the pan and the block. On the whole everything else has been pretty easy and parts are fairly cheap. Brake and clutch cylinders were a breeze. Pham Nuwen posted:actually since we're having tirechat right now, what tires are you running on yours? Mine has 3 5-year-old Kumhos and one tire with studs in it. I'm thinking I should get a new set of the cheapest acceptable tires on there. Since the truck is my bitch vehicle it's going to get a raspberry pi and a capacitor bank in place of the battery in the nearish future.
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Aug 14, 2015 21:28
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Here's the vid on the capacitor thing that got me interested in it by the way. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3x_kYq3mHM ed: in case it isn't clear the raspberry pi is for other stuff like gps, mileage tracking, music, and whatever other random poo poo I can think of.
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Aug 14, 2015 21:54
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Vacuum leaks are a bitch on these. There are people who rip out the emissions related poo poo, which accounts for a lot of the vacuum driven crap around the carb. There's a bunch of random info here, no idea if something will be useful but at least they have the diagrams for the vacuum lines (which are hard to find). The forums auto url parse is being retarded so you'll have to copy and pull out the [url] tags that it refuses to quit putting in the wrong place. code:
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Aug 16, 2015 22:49
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What is that canister even for? Some places are referring to it as a charcoal filter of some sort and saying it prevents fuel odor in the cab.
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Aug 17, 2015 02:00
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Can you find insulated washers at the chain auto parts stores? Alternatively is there any reason I couldn't just plasti dip a regular oversized washer and use that? Cabin light hasn't been working right in ages and has had to be left off, turns out the screws that hold it in place are creating a short.
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Oct 22, 2015 15:14
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Safety Dance posted:Yeah. Just get a neoprene washer. Alternatively, you might be able to find a nylon screw.
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Oct 22, 2015 19:20
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Safety Dance posted:Yeah. Just get a neoprene washer. Alternatively, you might be able to find a nylon screw.  *(after sawing off the horrible OEM rearview mirror that they made integral to the light socket for god knows what reason)
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Oct 25, 2015 01:43
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I want to add some kind of anchors to my truck bed to help with securing loads. What are some good products for this, and what should I expect to have to do for installation? I don't have stake pockets or anything else that I could pop some product into, just a plain bed on an 87 b2000. Drilling is a-ok with me.
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Oct 26, 2015 01:42
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StormDrain posted:You can get some cheap d rings nearly anywhere that are a simple bolt in setup. They can come with square holes so you can use carriage bolts on them. Search for d rings or tie downs and you can find them with some hassle online. The bigger they get they eventually get to be weld on only but I doubt you need that strength in that application.
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Oct 26, 2015 10:16
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