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I wonder what my VW would do if I tried that. One of the taillights will burn out while the wipers turn on, probably...
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Jul 24, 2015 22:20
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Yinzer posted:I have a question in regards to parts. Don't they make OEM and aftermarket stuff in the same factory, on the same assembly lines and just stamp in a brand? I found that the consumables for my car can be had straight from the OEM manufacturer, without the OEM packaging (but sometimes with the OEM stamping on the parts!), for less. For example, Mann makes the filters for my VW and I can buy the filters from Mann with the VW logo on them (but in a Mann labeled box) cheaper than I can buy the same filter from VW (in a VW labeled box).
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Jul 30, 2015 17:32
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Stupid question: how do you check brake pad thickness? Do you have to actually take the caliper off and remove the pads or is there a way to do it without disassembling the system?
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Aug 4, 2015 03:50
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k-uno posted:I've had friends whose Audi's have become basket cases after 60k miles or so They've gotten better. My 07 GTI didn't become a basket case until 75k miles!
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Aug 4, 2015 04:45
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Aug 8, 2015 13:24
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Are you set on sweet tunes?
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Aug 12, 2015 14:34
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I posted this helpful chart from a local motorcycle shop a while ago. Sorry, no "knock".
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Aug 12, 2015 20:37
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Pham Nuwen posted:It's got some pretty gross purple tint on the windows as seen below... best way to get that off? Removing a mod that looks like it was put on in a driveway? Mighty Car Mods can help! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vmR8LlGkGJQ
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Aug 12, 2015 21:32
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Leperflesh posted:Oh, and try measuring the mileage yourself. Next time you fill the tank, reset the trip meter. Then the time after that, take note of how much fuel you put into the tank to fill it back up, and divide by the number of miles you drove, to get an actual measured MPG. Maybe your computer isn't working right. Comparing actual mpg to the computer would be an apples to oranges comparison for me. The computer has always been off, though consistently off. If they don't have an actual baseline from when the car was new, there isn't anything to compare to.
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Aug 14, 2015 14:12
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Fixit posted:My question is, what tire brand is best suited for wet conditions and driving on the highway? The specific tire matters a lot. The brands make a wide variety of types of tires at various price points. Some are good, some suck. The brand alone isn't enough to decide which is "best".
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Aug 14, 2015 18:57
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Geirskogul posted:I thought there was one. Like, one. Tools Thread?
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Aug 14, 2015 21:20
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KING BONG posted:Stupid question... and it's fague. I have $15,000 to spend and I'm looking for the best vehicle to buy, used or new for a family of 5. Preferably not a mini van. There's a thread for you: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3213538&pagenumber=1&perpage=40 But, you should get a minivan.
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Aug 15, 2015 14:34
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Astonishing Wang posted:The minivan is pretty much the perfect vehicle. I don't know why people are so opposed. A minivan means you are tied to your family while an SUV means you can go anywhere! (you will drive both to Costco)
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Aug 15, 2015 16:08
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Pham Nuwen posted:Hey man, he never specified that safety matters, just that he doesn't want a minivan! Then he should buy three Miatas!
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Aug 15, 2015 18:47
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Don't drive faster than you can see. It's okay to slow down for the turns. Down shift when going down hill so you don't cook your brakes. Pull over when you can to let the locals go by.
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Aug 18, 2015 23:08
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I don't any personal experience, but I'm going to put my money down on this thread's advice being "punch yourself in the crotch, instead."
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Aug 21, 2015 14:49
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The blue aluminum jacks at Harbor Freight age pretty decent for the price.
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Aug 31, 2015 02:43
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Knifegrab posted:But if my front tires wear quciker than my rears, and mechanics policies are to never rotate more worn to the rear, how will I be able to ever rotate my tires if I get all 4 at the same time, because my fronts will always be more worn than my rears and I imagine they will refuse to rotate. (No I cannot rotate myself I am big dumb babby). Your tires will have relatively constant grip during their lifetime until they are worn out. Like this:  (I don't know if this image is correct as I'm not sure of the source, but it illustrates what I mean). So, if the tires aren't bald, it shouldn't really matter which are in the rear. Rotating them will regularly will extend the life of all the tires and let you replace them all at once. You also aren't left with one set of tires having drastically different grip than the other. If one set of tires is excessively worn, then put those on the front so when bad stuff happens, it's predictable instead of having your car go into a spin. EDIT: I haven't rotated mine in a while. I need an alignment as one is wearing unevenly. Another wheel is slightly bent, so I left it on the rear to limit vibration. Right now, I have them on the car so I have the best grip available until the winter set goes on, then need to get new tires, wheels, and an alignment next spring. And I only have another season of life in the winter tires, so those are getting next winter. Uthor fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Sep 2, 2015 |
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Sep 2, 2015 19:11
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I think, in IL, if you buy a car out of state, you must pay tax when you register in state. If you paid some of it in the other state, you get a credit for that. Don't quote me on this. Read the fine print. If I remember filing my state taxes right, you can claim a deductible if you pay more in the other state than IL would charge you.
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Sep 3, 2015 03:01
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My 07 GTI's keyfob randomly stopped working yesterday. I replaced the battery, but it's still not doing anything when I press the buttons. The LED flashes when I hit the buttons, so it seems like it's transmitting. What should I check next? Halp! It's apparently "the old style" according to this DIY video. https://youtu.be/EiK-_w8yBvw Unfortunately, I don't have a second one that I can use/test with.
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Sep 8, 2015 23:12
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Yes, you should be looking at how the tires preform in the dry, wet, and (if it applies) snow. You can get amazing treadlife by making a tire out of hard rubber that will slide all over the place. I dig the Continental ExtremeContact DWS for dry, rain, and light snow (I have snow tires for the winter). There's also DW tires that don't do snow if you don't have the need. They have good ratings for the price, but not the cheapest tires on the market.
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Sep 9, 2015 18:52
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Eifert Posting posted:Waffling between Honda Fit EX and LX (Basic), 30$ a month is the difference. I really want the better speakers and and the extra inch on the tires. How many months? It's about $1000 over three years or $1800 over five. If you're dead set on the wheels and sound system, you can probably put something better together for under $1800, and that's not counting selling off the original parts.
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Sep 10, 2015 02:00
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I hear they stopped making them. ??? There's plenty of sizes available on TireRack.
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Sep 12, 2015 01:46
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I've had mine for about 36,000 miles/4 year (I have winter tires for the snow). The "S" markings (indicating they are useful in snow) have been worn off from the beginning of this year. The "W" markings should be about worn out by now. I plan on running them another couple of months/2,000 miles, then replacing in the spring. I'm fairly happy with that tire life.
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Sep 12, 2015 03:43
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My sunroof drains come out in that area. I can picture "Why's this water running here? I'll spray some foam and stop the leak!" Alternately, sound deadening/stopping a rattle?
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Sep 13, 2015 17:48
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My dad wants me to change the brakes on his '11 or' 12 Subaru Forester. Any special tools needed to get at the calipers or rotors?
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Sep 15, 2015 03:30
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Word. I'm good on those. Thanks.
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Sep 15, 2015 05:07
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Geirskogul posted:Also grease, a bungee cord, and a 10mm. I was just worried I'd need some big allen sockets or triple squares (VW!) or something.
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Sep 15, 2015 14:15
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So I bled my brakes by myself for the first time. Other than all the cursing, leaky fittings on the Motive Power Bleeder, and all the cancer I gave myself touching brake fluid, it went well. Now, what do I do with the jar of dark old brake fluid? Does the auto parts store take it?
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Sep 20, 2015 05:05
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I haven't used one before, but they look neat. Depending on where your drain is, I'd be worried about the fitting sticking out further than the regular plug, potentially getting caught on something and damaged.
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Sep 23, 2015 22:03
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Eifert Posting posted:2. The slowest I can go in reverse is waaay to fast. Should I ride the brake a bit when reversing or what? As is it seems like the slowest I can start a reverse at is 5+ miles an hour. In a crowded parking lot that's going to be a pain in the rear end. You're not going fast and you're not driving far in reverse. It's fine to modulate your speed with your clutch. Any extra wear is going to be insignificant in the grand scheme of things. Just don't, you know, floor the accelerator whole backing up and you'll be fine.
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Sep 27, 2015 04:39
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0toShifty posted:So I have a Corrado G60 Valve cover on my VW 1.8L 8v, currently attached with M6 studs and nuts. The only time I design something to use studs, it's because there is either a clearance issue or its to aid in assembly (ie, you can hang the part on the studs so you don't have to hold the whole weight while tightening the nuts). If you don't have either of those considerations, then bolts should be fine.
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Sep 29, 2015 01:51
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I've had one like this that worked just fine. http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Sports-Deluxe-2-Bike-Trunk/dp/B00TRTSAZM/ref=sr_1_1
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Oct 3, 2015 03:23
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melon cat posted:That looks perfect, and if Amazon's 'Check Fit' function is to be believed, it'll fit my Elantra just fine. Thanks very much for this link. I wasn't endorsing that particular one. The one I had was bought like 20 years ago and I have no idea who made it. Do some research. Though the one I linked look much nicer than my cheap one. Looks like it has more adjustments and is more stable.
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Oct 3, 2015 13:08
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MomJeans420 posted:I need to do my rotors and this is my first car where they've been held on with brass screws. Of course one screw came out ok, and the head on the other instantly started to strip. I don't think any of my drill bits will work for drilling it out, so I need to either buy a manual impact driver, or the appropriate bits. The head isn't completely stripped, think there's a chance an impact driver will work? I may just buy both tools, as I'm sure they'll be useful to have in the future. What are the best bits for drilling out a screw? I stripped the poo poo out of the screws holding on the rotors on my sister's rotor. After breaking a screw extractor on one and a screwdriver tip in another, I ended up getting them out by hitting them with a chisel, angling it so the chisel would dig in and turn the screw. I bought one of these for next time. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NYDRG Of course, I didn't install the screws on the new rotors because gently caress dealing with that again.
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Oct 7, 2015 18:44
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I remember Clarkson saying that the F1 drivers take a radically different line in one of the corners (the first or second) than The Stig takes. Have they ever a timed run with The Stig? The episode where they unmask (unhelmet?) him, there was a gag about him never doing a timed run and then they showed a bunch of clips of him driving the track backwards and in the wrong direction.
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Oct 7, 2015 19:49
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They don't seem to have any reviews on Tire Rack. What car do you have? What's your budget?
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Oct 8, 2015 19:40
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lol internet. posted:2007 Scion TC, budget is economical, I don't mind paying more if it's worth it but I don't need nothing crazy top of the line.. as I mentioned I plan on getting rid of the car in 5 years anyways. Five years is kind of the upper end of what you'd expect a tire to last as long as it's not a hard rubber hockey puck that has no traction, but will last forever (don't buy those). Check out TireRack for your car, filter it so you only see all-season tires, drop the price to ~$100 MAX, and sort by consumer ratings. These are only $1.50/tire more than the no-review Nexen tires and have the third best reviews in that price range. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...tC&autoModClar= Even better rated Michelin's are even a few bucks cheaper. If you have a Discount Tire near you, cross shop with them. They seem to have good prices/selections and I was happy with them the one time I used them.
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Oct 8, 2015 20:29
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CharlesM posted:Somebody somewhere was talking about getting Continental DWSes for cheap. I think they're EOL but still a good tire. I don't remember who or where or I'd link the post. Possibly me. I like them on my car. They didn't show up when I looked for lol internet's car, but I didn't look hard because  .
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Oct 9, 2015 03:23
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A quick Google search for "female concrete anchor" makes it seem like you need a "drop-in anchor". http://www.mcmaster.com/#drop-in-anchors/=6v41enc4pdifwm3ouk The setting tool seems to be just a machined rod and costs just a couple of bucks. Uthor fucked around with this message at 15:36 on Oct 18, 2015 |
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Oct 18, 2015 15:33
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