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There is two variants, a journal bearing and a ball bearing. Both examples I have are journal bearing. The GTX will be ball bearing.
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Sep 13, 2015 15:09
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So I spent a bunch of money on: Garrett GTX2863r w/ .64 turbine housing and internal wastegate and Turbosmart 14PSI adjustable actuator Full gasket kit for the turbo/manifold/exhaust crap some new silicone joiners some new water fittings for the turbo itself (the ones in the T28 were corroded as gently caress) new manifold studs new exhaust housing studs new nuts new manifold nuts. Drove down to my parents place and got to work on pulling the dead Turbo out. went mostly smoothly. Stripped down the old turbo of all fittings and lines and accessories and anything else I could re-use. put new water fittings into the turbo put new studs and bolts into the turbine housing went to fit the oil fitting for the braided line and it does fit. What. Tried again, thinking it was going in crooked. no go. half turn and it stops. Anyway by then all the stores that even had a chance of stocking a new oil fitting were shut or too far to get to before they closed on a saturday. I left my car there, defeated, and went home. Go back to my parents place tonight for dinner and to see my dog and I show my dad. He's retired but was a fitter/machinist for 40 years or so. He checks it a few times, then puts in, gets a socket on it and I freak out. "WOAH what the gently caress, its brand new, unused, I will just take it back and get it swapped. if you gently caress that thread there is no way they will allow me to return it" "This isnt my first lovely tap, son" *Twists socket by hand. a soft click is heard* "there, see, it was just a burr in the thread. its still there, but I wouldnt worry. it seals on the olive in there so you should be fine." I have Friday off work to go and get some new exhaust gaskets made up and replace some studs and nuts on the down pipe. Then comes the super fun task of getting all the oil out of the intercooler core and piping, replacing some joiners and clamps, and driving it on low boost for the forseeable future. Next up is Z32 AFM, 740cc injectors and a tune. I have a track day booked for Nov 2. hopefully its done by then. I should probably get new tyres before then also but history repeats itself I guess.
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Sep 23, 2015 13:56
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Turbo is in. It sounds cool and on actuator pressure only (14PSI) it is very responsive and has good torque. I gave it a quick hit at low boost on the Electronic Boost Controller (17PSI with previous gain settings from the T28) and it hit 18PSI and went to boost cut mode by 3500 RPM and broke traction in third from a rolling start  Have to keep my right foot under control until I can get the ECU remapped. Definitely impressed by this new-tech turbo though. Liqui-Moly First start lube tastes like death though.
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Sep 26, 2015 12:56
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Laserface posted:
And it will NOT come off your fingers for at least a week.
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Sep 26, 2015 13:45
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Or your lips, or arms. I'm almost certain none of it stayed in the turbo.
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Sep 27, 2015 01:42
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Sounds like my mates turbo install... Tipped turbo upside down, farted the Liqui-Moly "Turbo Super Lube" into it and as soon as we hung the turbo on the block it all just pissed out straight down my arms as i was trying to get the oil return line on. Took a week to get that poo poo off.
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Sep 27, 2015 02:12
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Been having charging problems in my RB25DET swap. fwiw, it's a '91 240sx hatchback. We tried changing the alternator and the battery so my guess is that it's some sort of wiring issue? The battery only lasts a little bit now and I have to charge it every time I start the car. Other than that, I've put many miles on it with no real problems. It was fine for a while but it's been a really sloppy swap as I learn my way around the mechanical side of things. I don't even have a harness. I had a friend help me with wiring and he did some weird poo poo like connect into a side light to act as a reducer or soemthing but I didn't really understand what he was talking about. He says I can just get a harness and it should be fine. It's been running really ghetto rigged but outside of that it drives fine until it needs a recharge. The only other problems are that the speedometer/tachometer don't work but I'm not really too worried about that and from what I've heard that can also be fixed with a harness. Anyway, if anyone has experience with this sort of thing it'd be appreciated because I want to get it properly fixed before winter comes around. Will take it to a garage if I have to but I'd like to do it myself if possible. Thief fucked around with this message at 10:30 on Oct 9, 2015 |
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Oct 9, 2015 10:24
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I don't know much about these particular cars (so surely some of the denizens of this thread will have better advice) but it sounds like there's some kind of parasitic load. Get an ammeter on your battery cable to see how much current is being pulled with the key off, and then trace the wires from the battery to figure out what circuit is doing it, and systematically go from there. It helps if you have a clamp-on ammeter, but if you don't have access to one of those you can make do with a cheap multimeter in series.
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Oct 10, 2015 00:13
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Does anyone want to provide input on Top feed vs. side feed injectors? Nismo 740cc Side feeds are a bolt-on injector. Bosch Top feed injectors start at 750 and can go up to 2000cc for E85 applications (not something I am interested in at the present, but maybe down the line) The kit (fuel rail, fittings, 1000cc injectors) for the Top feed setup costs about the same as a set of Nismo 740s. Both setups need an aftermarket FPR (turbosmart 800 at this point). From what I understand the Nismos act the most like a factory injector in terms of idle, cold start, tuneability etc. the benefits of top feed is cheaper, much more predictable when tuning (because they are more linear in their fuel delivery vs. Nismos) and can be expanded to E85 later due to extra capacity. is there any reason NOT to go for the cheaper, bigger top feed setup? logically it seems like larger injectors might be harder to tune for daily driving/low throttle, but the nismos being non-linear in their setup might make that harder also (although there is the benefit of them being a staple in the tuning community and a copy+paste fuel map of a tried and true config making tuning easier) In other news I Finished wiring up my oil pressure and temp gauge loom with nice connectors so I will get that thrown in this weekend.
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Oct 15, 2015 01:34
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Awesome news update! I got laid off! so things will be slow for a while. Cash wise I am fine but not going to be dumping money into a car until Im working again. on my first day of unemployment I finally got around to installing my little Oil temp/pressure meter. nifty little unit with lots of different ways to display the data. It took me a long time as I spent 2-3 nights planning the wiring and terminating it all with bullet connectors to make install and issue diagnosis easier. Unfortunately all the sensors have independant wiring so there was like 4 earths and 3 sensor wires plus all the wiring for the unit itself (ground, power, 12v constant, headlight sensor wire) it also reads volts so I figured putting it in a spot that blocks the battery warning light isnt such a big deal. When time and confidence permits I might disassemble the dash, remove the broken digital clock from the cluster, and put the display in there. 
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Oct 28, 2015 04:47
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What gauge box is that? It looks pretty neat!
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Oct 28, 2015 06:48
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Powered by Max EVDM v2. They also make one that does volts, exhaust temp and RPM. You can effectively run three of them and do: - fuel pressure - oil pressure - oil Temp - water temp - volts - Exhaust temp - RPM I have an Engine Guardian that does water temp already (with a buzzer for high temp warning) so one is enough for me. There's a video on YouTube of all the functions and display modes. Only complaint is the smallish screen but it's clear enough. If I dismantle the unit I can fit the display panel in the factory clock in the dash and hide the board elsewhere.
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Oct 28, 2015 08:30
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Cool! And sorry about the job, hope you move on to something better!
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Oct 28, 2015 08:43
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Got new tyres because apparently this does not a good wet tyre make:  I should probably do an alignment specifically for track days because half that tyre is barely used. Got a sweet deal on some Bridgestone RE003. I swear they grip better in the wet than on a dry road. Will source some Hankook semi slicks before next track day as these don't rate so well for that. Job interviews are coming in slowly so I may be able to take my severance money and put it up my nose! (I need sinus surgery) If all goes well I will be getting tuned by end of year and hitting the track WHEN ITS NOT SO GODDAMN HOT. Got up to 95C coolant temp just running the car with AC at road speed. Oil was just over 100C. Australian summer is brutal. Put in some new oil while I had the garage to myself and realise I had already bought 3 jugs of oil. I should probably stop buying oil. cleaned a significant amount of the car and all of the wheels with orange based cleaning foam. came up a treat! finally got all that baked on brake dust off to reveal the pure whiteness of the wheels. probably even cleaner than when I bought them. 
Laserface fucked around with this message at 13:51 on Nov 24, 2015 |
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Nov 24, 2015 13:45
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That looks really good cleaned up. The Type X is a really nice looking car. Every s13 I see down has mismatched wheels, paint peeling and flaking or some stupid body kit with a gaudy paint job being driven by flat brimmed hat douche bags. It was hot as balls this week down in Brisbane. Even though it was only 34, humidity was like 90% and pushing 150kg loaded trolleys up hills is a fun way to sweat like nothing else.
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Nov 27, 2015 21:30
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We hit 38 in Sydney. I had to adjust the low warning for oil pressure as the extra temp sent idle pressure dipping below 15PSI. And I have lots of flat brims and paint peeling. I just also happen to have color matched duct tape to hide it
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Nov 28, 2015 00:37
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Do you have a oil cooler because 100c oil doesn't sound fun?
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Nov 28, 2015 12:23
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No. Apparently I don't need one unless it's hitting 120c?
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Nov 28, 2015 15:29
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Rhyno posted:Bleeding brakes loving sucks btw.
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Nov 29, 2015 06:08
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Laserface posted:We hit 38 in Sydney. I had to adjust the low warning for oil pressure as the extra temp sent idle pressure dipping below 15PSI. Go up a grade?
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Nov 29, 2015 10:06
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it was already 15w50 which is one up from the recommended.
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Nov 29, 2015 10:10
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Raluek posted:I don't know much about these particular cars (so surely some of the denizens of this thread will have better advice) but it sounds like there's some kind of parasitic load. Get an ammeter on your battery cable to see how much current is being pulled with the key off, and then trace the wires from the battery to figure out what circuit is doing it, and systematically go from there. It helps if you have a clamp-on ammeter, but if you don't have access to one of those you can make do with a cheap multimeter in series. I ended up just getting a proper harness because my there was too much loose spaghetti under the hood. Wiring Specialties seems legit. They apparently have all the common swaps you see like LS1, 2JZ/1JZ, SR-20 and RB20/25/26s into most Nissans and E30s. I ordered the RB25DET->S13 and they had many options like separated engine, transmission and coilpack wiring to a bundle that wired them all together in a single line. Some things are plugged in as fitted extensions so that if you want to ever change something like the MAFS or ECU you can do so very easily. It also shipped immediately and arrived at my place within just a few days which I was not expecting. The combined harness has the proper sensors so more than just my boost gauge is working again but I think it needs to be recalibrated at a proper shop to show the actual speed/rpm. Despite this, it all appears to be very high quality and organized. All in all it was worth it for someone like me that doesn't really know poo poo about rewiring. Basically just plugged it in and after about 10 steps and it was ready to go with no cutting or splicing needed like I've had to do on my other cars in the past. Would definitely recommend them to anyone that ends up in the same situation. Thief fucked around with this message at 20:44 on Nov 29, 2015 |
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Nov 29, 2015 20:42
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SO I finally have a few job offers on the table and with a healthy pay rise to boot. it was getting scary as I was officially going to be living on my credit card having burned through most of my savings (which I was going to spend on getting some much needed sinus surgery, but alas) and now I am starting to plan what to do next. While I want to get it tuned and thrash its guts out really badly I want to prep for what is hopefully a year chock-full of track days. I predict this will be the last year I own the car as the new job with new money means I can buy something bigger/faster/nicer. Im seriously considering buying an R34 GTR in the next 12 months, but im also really into the Focus RS. But this thread isnt about 'gonnas' its about loving RIGHT NOW. Since the last update I somehow snapped the base frame of my super cool drivers seat so now I am back to factory seats. Mods planned: Oil cooler with thermostat and filter relocation + bigger sump (maybe?) fit the Z32 AFM 1150cc Top feed injectors, fuel rail, e85 flex sensor and Nistune firmware upgrade to support flex-tune Fixed back seat to put in for track days w/4 point harness (probably a Bride Zeta because JDM) Semi Slicks (hankooks, or nittos, whatever is cheaper) Other stuff maybe planned but effort and big cost: all new vulcanised rubber bushings 1.5way LSD Complete respray Stuff I need to fix: Fix my Enkei RPF1s so I can easily swap tyres for track days. i should probably just sell them after they are round again and get some new ones. Fix the East bear Seat frame and sell them because they are a loving death trap. maybe i should be looking at buying a tow vehicle instead 
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Jan 8, 2016 10:15
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I'd get 5 points over 4 points for track stuff. If you're worried about your death trap seats, then I would assume avoiding submarining would be on your radar as well. Worse for daily driving but there's only one 4 point on the market that I know of that's ok for street use anyway (Schroth) that is an anti submarine belt. https://www.schrothracing.com/tuning/rallye/rallye-4
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Jan 8, 2016 14:16
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harnesses would just for track, i would remove it when on the street. Will look into a 5 point though, yeah.
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Jan 8, 2016 15:36
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Putting on and taking off belts for every track day sounds like a royal pain in the rear end.
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Jan 8, 2016 16:57
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Thief posted:I ended up just getting a proper harness because my there was too much loose spaghetti under the hood. I got a Wiring Specialties loom for my SR20 swap as well. Painless plug and play. After seeing the loving rats nest that my friends car came with of spliced wires I wanted to avoid that as much as possible. You tell them what engine you have and what chassis your putting it into and boom, fresh professionally made and wrapped loom.  
D C fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Jan 9, 2016 |
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Jan 9, 2016 00:12
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Octopus Magic posted:Putting on and taking off belts for every track day sounds like a royal pain in the rear end. theres a few on the market now that give you carabiner style locking loops on the end along with eyebolts to connect them to. and by 'take them out' i actually mean just remove them from the loops in the back of the chair and then leave them hanging on the back seat. people do it.
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Jan 9, 2016 00:42
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I got a HKS oil filter relocation block with built in thermostat and a 12 row oil cooler for $150. The kit cost the owner $900 haha. I guess thats the upside to young guys buying these cars and destroying them. Im employed now so Im going to buy a fuel rail and injectors in the next week or so. My ECU may have the firmware for E85 support already installed - if it does I will probably get both P98 and E85 tunes done at once. if not, I might put off the E85 tune for flex fuel until later. Im leaning towards later anyway as E85 would be resulting in enough cylinder pressure to lift the head, so ARP studs and a metal headgasket are probably required. And while the heads out I suppose I will also put some step 1 cams.
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Jan 31, 2016 11:52
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Don't get rid of the S13 just get another car in addition 
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Jan 31, 2016 22:37
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Despite only just getting my first paycheck and the horrible AUD:USD ratio I Just bought 4x 1250cc Bosch top feed injectors and a top feed rail and harness. poo poo is about to get real.
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Feb 6, 2016 09:33
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So I got off my rear end and got the loving thing tuned today. 221kw (296HP) @6150RPM 577nm (425ftlb) @ 4600RPM. Peak boost is hitting around 23PSI. The GTX turbo (2863, not 67) definitely isnt happy til its around 20PSI, but I knew that going in. will have to do head studs and head gasket if I want to go further as it will lift the head with any more boost. I could get another 30kw with cams but lose some response which isnt ideal. e85 would be the best route but I feel a bit grown up for the car now and have achieved everything I wanted to with it. the torque is pretty nice. it hits smooth and isnt instantly frying tyres. Its only a handful to drive if you want it to be - super placid on sedated driving, but put your foot down anywhere over 2500RPM and it starts to boogie pretty quickly. Fun facts: - 1150cc injectors at 38% duty cycle - engine is making 155PSI across all cylinders despite being nearly 400,000kms old - maybe little bit of bearing wear so went up to 10w60. - e85 later in the year, or not at all, its pretty much awesome as it is. it sounds pretty mental with 20PSI rushing through the turbo system. Im going to take a few videos off my dash cam shortly from the drive home.
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May 12, 2016 13:16
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Christ that torque, and that lag.
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May 12, 2016 14:48
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Whereabouts in the rev range do you see full boost? I'm retarded and cant read that dyno chart, but that seems like a large amount of torque for a sr20 with that kind of turbo. Is it externally gated?
track day bro! fucked around with this message at 15:02 on May 12, 2016 |
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May 12, 2016 14:59
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The Manifold Pressure graph lines up with the RPMs in the big chart, so its hitting 20PSI at 5310RPM or something, but its getting to 18PSI at 3800RPM. I have a feeling some tweaking of the boost controller will get the max boost a little closer to the left and a bit more fun. it hits 23PSI in second gear, probably spiking as the load in second is pretty different to fourth and it doesnt adjust the wastegate as quickly. it starts producing positive pressure at like 1200RPM though, its a freak. To clarify the chart a bit, the red line is the high boost and the blue line is the wastegate with not electronic boost control enabled. its only showing power, no torque curve, which is a bit annoying. I will email and see if they can send me a torque/power graph instead. To drive it isnt really laggy at all, it feels pretty much like it did with the previous turbo, but more torquey down low. EDIT: saw your edit. its internal wastegate in a .64 rear housing.
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May 12, 2016 15:08
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Looks neat, i'm looking for something similar on a 3sgte and was told to look at a GT2868HTA from a company over here. If they can do an internaly gated one that has a T3 housing i'd be tempted to get rid of my odd TD05-16g, like you i'm looking for something pretty responsive over big power figures for track days (bro)
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May 12, 2016 16:35
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Bought a thing for my s13, really hoping I can drive it properly this summer. 
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May 12, 2016 20:00
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track day bro! posted:Looks neat, i'm looking for something similar on a 3sgte and was told to look at a GT2868HTA from a company over here. If they can do an internaly gated one that has a T3 housing i'd be tempted to get rid of my odd TD05-16g, like you i'm looking for something pretty responsive over big power figures for track days (bro) I bought the turbo from GCG turbos and they have options for internal or external wastegates. any reason you want that specific turbo? the GTX range are much newer and seem to be a lot more responsive than the GT series (lots of guys now running GTX3076 on stock bottom end SR20s here and getting good response/power) even the off boost driving is nicer despite having injectors 3x the original size. The new tuner made the timing pretty aggressive down low as he knew what I wanted it for (street stupidity and track days) EDIT: made a short video. definitely room for improvement on the boost controller - it drops 2 PSI then gets it back again. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rxUXWrlYKoU Laserface fucked around with this message at 09:19 on May 13, 2016 |
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May 13, 2016 00:24
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D C posted:Bought a thing for my s13, really hoping I can drive it properly this summer. Did you install these yet? Once you memorize the imperfections and speedbumps of the roads around your area you can lower your car to obnoxious levels and troll Integra bros you see around town with just a few turns of the wrench. Eventually I'm gonna go around and redo my suspension/bushings but until then it's a funny way to dork around when the weather is nice.
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Jun 17, 2016 20:28
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| # ? May 2, 2024 19:36 |
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your bump of the thread reminded me that I fixed the flat spot in the boost and its now hitting 20PSI around 3900RPM and my ignitors are dead  have a Yaris coil conversion kit on the way so hopefully that fixes it before the ignitors are totally gone. it started off as only being an issue above 12PSI, then 10PSI, and then it started missing at idle, and now its missing under 2k RPM, and presumably after the next few days itll be just not even starting at all
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Jun 19, 2016 01:56
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