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Shellman posted:Do any dorkroomers do c-prints? I think that it doesn't take long enough to get happy with a B&W print and want to waste time with three different light colors in complete darkness without a safelight. I have done c-prints before with the RA4 kit, papers (which I have about 200 sheets sitting in draws somewhere) filters and eternal darkness.  Hands RA-4 Print by mr_student, on Flickr From a home dev'd 4x5 negative, it was about 8x10 size.  Mirror - RA4 Print by mr_student, on Flickr Obviously from a 35mm neg. The top one was done with a Durst 138 using just simple CMY filters out of a box and adding/subtracting more and more density to the particular colour. The bottom one I have a small/medium format enlarger with the colour filters built in. Its actually a pretty simple process once you've got a guide for the process. Its a matter for getting the tint and then temperature right with test strips, and then exposure using a standard development and blix time for the process.  Docklands by mr_student, on Flickr Everyone's probably already seen me post these in the film thread, but it's made using the Argyrotype process. I chose Argyrotypes as there really easy to make, the working solutions has a very long shelf life, the developer is just water the fix is sodium thiosulfate and you can tone it with almost anything. You also don't need a real dark room, a bathroom with the blinds drawn and a halogen/tungsten light overhead is fine, just no UV. I'd highly recommend it for people looking to get into alternative processes. The only issue is making sure you get the right paper to work with, which there are lists of online.
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Mar 5, 2015 11:26
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eggsovereasy posted:Is that the natural tone of argyrotypes or did you tone it with something? I like the green tea 5min one the best. The print there is selenium toned, but it doesn't have the richness in the browns that I want, as the paper is not super great for the process. Argyrotype is a modified Van Dyke process, so it's in the brown end of the spectrum of alt printing, but if you gold tone you can get the browns to go nearly black and the start to look a little Pt/Pd, which is what I want to try next.
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Mar 6, 2015 02:26
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That big yellow thing in the sky works pretty well, don't bother with getting any special UV sources just yet.
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Mar 15, 2015 00:10
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From what I've seen of people doing the processing of wall painted emulsion is that they use sponges and paint rollers to keep the dripping and splashing to minimum.
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Mar 18, 2015 01:21
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I reckon you could get something to work on a reasonable time frame if you got an old overhead projector and replaced the usual bulbs with UV ones, and then projected the negative on the wall. The optics in the projector probably wouldn't be fully suited (and may actually absorb UV), but it should make the process do-able.
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Mar 19, 2015 00:04
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I actually prefer the contrary print over the scan, which I think looks a little flat. Keep printing! I'm going to get my enlarger sorted out this weekend down at my parents property, I've got a Durst 138s (4x5) enlarger that I haven't used since I did some ra4 printing a year or two ago.
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Mar 20, 2015 08:14
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Some colleagues at the CSIRO let me know they were cleaning out their darkrooms to put new electron microscopy gear in. So their Durst 1200 enlarger got snapped up quick along with their film stocks, BUT I was able to go in and get all their paper and a bunch of other odds and ends.  I got around 2700 sheets of paper in a range of grades and multigrade, mostly 8x10, 200 sheets of X-ray film, a bunch of trays, a big patterson tank and a couple of stainless steel ones, 5 paper safes, 9 bottles of Rodinal Special, and a couple of enlarger timers that I'd been meaning to get.
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Apr 29, 2015 12:45
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Some Argyrotypes made from 8x10 X-ray film negatives:  
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Jul 19, 2015 08:09
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Thanks! I'm pretty impressed with X-ray film, I've got the processing worked out so I don't scratch it and get get it quite even, and also done cheaply with Rodinal 1:100 for 6min. The only problem being that its tough to get on places like e-bay here in Australia. I think I might try Cyanotypes next, they seem to have a lot more flexibility in the processing and lots of options for toning/bleaching etc. And give the collodion based print-out-paper a go too, now that Freestyle have sent my the Adox Baryta paper I ordered.
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Jul 20, 2015 00:38
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Having a quick search, it's ASA is around 0.0001, while x-ray film can vary between 50-400 depending on the manufacturer and type. And to be honest, I don't think I have the time to use film that slow. I got a packet of that Arista Ortho Lith film, $40 for 50 sheets. I've shot a couple but haven't developed them yet, annoyingly the sheets are a smidge too big for standard 8x10 holders and need to be cut down a little. I might try it in the 100 year whole plate camera I've got.
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Jul 25, 2015 00:07
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Could you persevere them in amber/acrylic? I think that would be pretty neat.
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Sep 2, 2015 05:02
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No safety light, and you use CMY filters to balance the colour rather than the Multigrade filters you usually for multigrade black and white paper. The RA-4 process is a standard process like C-41, so you process the paper identically in the dark for each step, and adjust the colour/saturation of the print through the exposure only. You'll need this kind of chemistry: http://www.freestylephoto.biz/11812-Arista-RA-4-Color-Print-Processing-Kit-2-Liter And these kind of filters if your enlarger isn't setup for colour: http://www.freestylephoto.biz/31636-Arista-RA4-Color-Filters-6x6-in.-22-Pack And then you need to learn all about subtractive colour and how to adjust for colour temperature and tint.
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Dec 2, 2015 05:51
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BANME.sh posted:I read that assuming your C-41 film is stored properly, exposed properly, and developed properly, that once you dial in the proper settings for any one type of film stock, you can re-use those CMY settings for any of the same film stock. Any truth to that, or is that just an "in theory, but never happens in practice" kind of thing? You'll need to dial in the CMY for every shot, but if you're working with the same film stock, developed at the same time, you'll only need to make small adjustments. I've done colour printing with this kit at room temperature, it worked pretty great: https://www.macodirect.de/en/chemistry/color-chemistry/ra-4/4480/rollei-digibase-ra4-print-kit-for-1l?c=651 Also the Rollei C-41 kits work at room temperature really well too.
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Dec 2, 2015 12:51
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Understanding posted:Does anyone keep some sort of print log for their pictures? I have a habit of writing down what I'm developing and how when working with film, stuff like stock, chemicals, dilution, and times, but never usually brought that to printing until recently. Sounds like a good idea so that you get some constancy across your prints, especially important if you're printing for a show. I would also log the temperature of your chemicals too.
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Sep 29, 2016 02:40
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 09:39 |
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Understanding posted:That's crazy talk. That's pretty much what I was getting at, if you know it's consistent from experience then don't worry about logging it. More an issue if you live somewhere where tap water/room temp varies greatly between seasons.
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Oct 2, 2016 02:44
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