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Hi, first post on the forum, pls let me know if I am loving up. Where do you guys buy cyanotype chemicals, and how is it with shipping it across international borders? I set my kitchen up as a dark room back in February, but only managed to knock a few prints out before the nights got too bright to keep my kitchen light tight (I live in Norway. So, I'm thinking cyanotype prints are actually going to be easier to do for me at times of the year. Really looking forward to setting up my enlarger again one of these days, the nights are getting darker every day. Included is the best photo I have, ofone of the few prints I had time to make back in winter. Yes, it's RC paper. I was given it for free, and this was my first time ever wet printing so I had to teach myself how to do it. It was printed off an obscenely thin D3200 neg, so I'm quite happy with how it came out, but am looking forward to printing off more quality negs this winter. 
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Sep 29, 2016 14:17
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Helen Highwater posted:As you're in the EEA, I'd recommend Mamut Photo. Their physical shop is in Prague (and is worth a visit if you're ever in the area but they will ship anywhere at reasonable rates. AFAIK, they are pretty much the most complete supplier of alternative process equipment in Europe. Thanks for the tip, it looks like a really good site. I work part time in the last remaining real photo lab in my city, and I talked to my boss just now, he could order some from Maco the next time he orders supplies, but it'll be another month or so. It will actually be slightly more expensive than Mamut, but I really hate dealing with shipping and customs, so I think I'll just let my boss deal with it. He did say I was a retard for wanting to do cyanotype since it's super toxic and the sunlight will be too weak in winter to expose it, but I guess nothing worth doing is easy. Have another print, a contact print of a selfie I made on 4x5 Washi paper to test the EI. 
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Sep 29, 2016 15:28
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Helen Highwater posted:You don't have to pay customs fees in Norway on EU-sourced goods. Or is that not the case anymore? MrBlandAverage posted:Don't heat the chemicals above 65C or mix them with a strong acid and you won't get any free cyanide at all. Potassium ferricyanide is used in Europe as an anticaking agent in table salt - you might see it in ingredients lists as E536. You look like a fairly skinny guy but I guarantee you you'd have to consume at least 300 grams of potassium ferricyanide to put your life in danger. I'll keep posting learner prints until people ask me to stop. Don't know if people find it spammy, but I always like to see others post as many pictures as possible, so I try to too. This is another self portrait contact print, off a bleached FP-100C neg, that came out surprisingly good in terms of contrast. 
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Sep 29, 2016 22:13
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Father O'Blivion posted:You can use BW developer (hc-110 in this case) to reintensify a silver chloride contact print underneath a subsequent cyanotype. Going to try this with a bromide base print next. Its no gum bichromate but 2 tones are better than 1. Mind expanding a bit on the process? Primo Itch posted:We even use sodium nitroprusside intravenously therapeutically, which is very close chemically (and probably more dangerous, honestly) to Prussian Blue, so you'd probably have to ACTUALLY DRINK quite some cianotype solution before you were at any risks. It's honestly one of the safest alternative methods out there.
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Jan 22, 2017 17:02
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Father O'Blivion posted:Alchemy I'm writing it down of my list of things I need to do before I die.
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Jan 24, 2017 20:40
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