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Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer

lilljonas posted:

E: give me a shoutout if you go for it and need any terrain, and I'll give you a goon deal

http://muraminiatures.com/

Well, now you've pretty much forced me to buy a bunch of tiny, tiny soldiers. I'll PM you when I've looked through everything.

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alchahest
Dec 28, 2004
Universal Solvent
I need some help to get to the painting stage - I have a mess of really fine resin minis (from Arena Rex) and am a massive tool when it comes to getting things off of the sprues. This resin stuff is so brittle and tiny compared to good strong metal!

I'd used side cutters previously, but they're too clumsy for the size of the sprues and pieces attached to the sprues. Can anyone recommend some very fine clippers that can be used with this type of medium? And any other tools that might be good to have? (I've got a regular assortment of knives and other things you'd need for working with pewter or a more hardy resin or plastic)

Thanks in advance because I know you guys will have some kind of info for me.

Slimnoid
Sep 6, 2012

Does that mean I don't get the job?

alchahest posted:

I need some help to get to the painting stage - I have a mess of really fine resin minis (from Arena Rex) and am a massive tool when it comes to getting things off of the sprues. This resin stuff is so brittle and tiny compared to good strong metal!

I'd used side cutters previously, but they're too clumsy for the size of the sprues and pieces attached to the sprues. Can anyone recommend some very fine clippers that can be used with this type of medium? And any other tools that might be good to have? (I've got a regular assortment of knives and other things you'd need for working with pewter or a more hardy resin or plastic)

Thanks in advance because I know you guys will have some kind of info for me.

I've used a set of small floral clippers for fragile resin before, which I found at Dollar Tree. I imagine you can find it there, or any cheap-o dollar store nearby. They typically don't have much strength to them, which makes it pretty ideal for resin.

Otherwise, use an x-acto and just be careful.

Bachtere
Sep 25, 2005

09/13/07

Never Forget

Pillbug
I have these (same style at least). Had them for years. Served me well for finer clipping needs. Although I didn't pay close to $20 for them.

http://www.micromark.com/tweezer-sprue-cutter-despruing-tweezer,8012.html

alchahest
Dec 28, 2004
Universal Solvent
Thanks guys. I'll see if I can find those tweezer-style clippers anywhere, they look about perfect.

Unzip and Attack
Mar 3, 2008

USPOL May
Ok goons I done hosed up and I don't know how I did it or how to fix it. I bought a can of Armory black primer spray and tried to primer a bunch of plastic historical minis. Instead of going on smooth the figs look like they are coated in a black plastic dust that just flakes off at the slightest touch revealing the plastic beneath. The minis feel like they are coated in felt rather than primered. What did I do wrong and how do I get the bad primer job off?

Indolent Bastard
Oct 26, 2007

I WON THIS AMAZING AVATAR! I'M A WINNER! WOOOOO!

Unzip and Attack posted:

Ok goons I done hosed up and I don't know how I did it or how to fix it. I bought a can of Armory black primer spray and tried to primer a bunch of plastic historical minis. Instead of going on smooth the figs look like they are coated in a black plastic dust that just flakes off at the slightest touch revealing the plastic beneath. The minis feel like they are coated in felt rather than primered. What did I do wrong and how do I get the bad primer job off?

Don't know what went wrong exactly, but Super Clean Engine degreaser is your friend. Wear gloves when using it.

Slimnoid
Sep 6, 2012

Does that mean I don't get the job?

Unzip and Attack posted:

Ok goons I done hosed up and I don't know how I did it or how to fix it. I bought a can of Armory black primer spray and tried to primer a bunch of plastic historical minis. Instead of going on smooth the figs look like they are coated in a black plastic dust that just flakes off at the slightest touch revealing the plastic beneath. The minis feel like they are coated in felt rather than primered. What did I do wrong and how do I get the bad primer job off?

Several things could have gone wrong!

1. You didn't shake the can good/long enough. It's best to give a new can (and one you haven't used in a while) a thorough rattlin', upwards of ten minutes (realistically, 5-7 will do).

2. Humidity or moisture. Too much of either can really skunk up a spray session.

3. Bad can. Sometimes that just happens, and you end up with a can full of gunk. There's no saving a bad can, unfortunately.

Getting rid of the primer, however, is easy:

Indolent Bastard posted:

Super Clean Engine degreaser is your friend. Wear gloves when using it.

Lord Humongus
Apr 10, 2009

ice ice baby :toot:
Could I get some critique please? Worked hard on them but I want to improve!



Indolent Bastard
Oct 26, 2007

I WON THIS AMAZING AVATAR! I'M A WINNER! WOOOOO!

Lord Humongus posted:

Could I get some critique please? Worked hard on them but I want to improve!





Looks pretty good; anything you don't feel confident about? I'd say they look fine.

Lord Humongus
Apr 10, 2009

ice ice baby :toot:
I just want to wow people.

Unzip and Attack
Mar 3, 2008

USPOL May
Will Super Clean Engine de-greaser mess up the plastic underneath the primer? These models are really nice and detailed and I'd hate to see any of that melt away or get ruined. :(

VolatileSky
May 5, 2007
i'm gay thx
Soaking in simple green is probably the easiest/safest way, and using a soft/medium hardness toothbrush on them. Might take a soaking or two to get them close to clean. I go with simple green for my ebay rescues, it takes a bit of work but largely it won't affect plastics, others have different methods.

As for what happened, my guess would be you held the paintcan too far away from the models, which leads to only the heavier particles travelling far enough to adhere to the model, which then build up into a granular/fuzzy sort of coating, which flakes off, looks like hell, etc. (friend of mine did this to his entire eldar army). Practice on a metal model or other small detailed thing you don't care about having to clean off, and get light even coats that go on smoothly.

That and possibly how you handle the paint can, but since I can't see that, you're on your own to look up youtube videos to get an idea on the technique for that, if that's even a problem.

I don't mention the paintcan because generally that is where it sputters/clumps out, and from what you describe, it's possibly more on the user end of things.

Unzip and Attack
Mar 3, 2008

USPOL May
I think it was a combination of holding too far away and not shaking the can enough. I didn't know I needed to shake the can that much before using. I'll give it another go and report back. Thanks all!

TheCosmicMuffet
Jun 21, 2009

by Shine

Lord Humongus posted:

Could I get some critique please? Worked hard on them but I want to improve!






Lord Humongus posted:

I just want to wow people.

Well I guess if I had to, I'd say they're highly competently painted guys in armor, but lack any overall composition.

So, I look at each part of the model, and it is uniformely painted to a high standard, extremely neatly, with a very nice layering of color and cool old dry rot kind of look. The green highlights are nice and subtle, and I like them.

But as a figure neither is particularly evocative of anything. For one thing, they've been painted in an all-bright environment with fairly uniform saturation and hue. Sure, the green highlights are noticeable, but overall the colors have been reigned in. This is nice, but there's nothing to take advantage of the stage you've set; nothing that pops. There's no overall transition to suggest a lighting or weathering environment. Have these guys risen out of a swamp? Are they walking through acid rain? Have they charged through fire and gas? Have they been hit in the face with lasgun fire? A gloss to matte, light to dark, or textured to uniform transition on the models would help establish a narrative and visual hierarchy for them.

Since you've so carefully executed a complimentary scheme, there's little in the way of contrast. That guy with the claw is a good example. The vials on the back could have been full of blood. Dark evil looking ichor could be leaking out of the joints onto the claw. The shoulder could look like its barely containing inflamed flesh or was given a blessing of Khorne as part of an outplacement program (or was ripped off a something Khornate).

If that doesn't sound good, you could look at the staff instead. Perhaps it has a sickly yellow and cyan light that it emits, bathing the model in OSL that's echoed in an electrical glow from short circuits on the claws.

Additionally, they are camoflouged for their bases. That's cool, but it underscores the issue with how the competent uniformity sacrifices composition. Guy standing on a ledge in toxic sludge looks like he's made of the same thing as the planet he's on. Could the rocks perhaps be black and hyper-shaded as if he's standing in weird harsh lighting? Could the sludge incorporate some off-kilter orange that catches the eye (though, hopefully doesn't detract from the model).

Honestly, this is my best stab at what could improve, but I like them alot and I don't mean any of this as if it were something you should be concerned about. These are really cool pieces.

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat
Shut up and use Super Clean

signalnoise
Mar 7, 2008

i was told my old av was distracting

TheCosmicMuffet posted:

I like them alot and I don't mean any of this as if it were something you should be concerned about. These are really cool pieces.

I agree with this, and probably the best thing you could do to make them wow me is to simply take better photographs.

Indolent Bastard
Oct 26, 2007

I WON THIS AMAZING AVATAR! I'M A WINNER! WOOOOO!

Unzip and Attack posted:

Will Super Clean Engine de-greaser mess up the plastic underneath the primer? These models are really nice and detailed and I'd hate to see any of that melt away or get ruined. :(

Nope Super Clean won't hurt plastic or resin. It will make super glue crumble though.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

Indolent Bastard posted:

It will make super glue crumble though.
Best. Side effect. Ever.

Post 9-11 User
Apr 14, 2010

Lord Humongus posted:

Could I get some critique please? Worked hard on them but I want to improve!


The paint looks great! I'm an rear end in a top hat so you can trust me when I say it looks good.

From a modeling perspective, though, there are some small things that can make a big difference. First: drag a razor across the side of the helmet to remove the marks where the horns on the helmet once were. I would take a photo but I'm lazy, just drag the razor across the surface at a right angle, it will shave the surface smooth.
rear end
See that right foot? The more complicated thing is that if a foot is on the edge of a rock as you have modeled it should be angled. Either angle the foot or add more stone to the base. The 40k example that comes to mind is when players put assault marines on flying bases but their feet are still flat on the ground.

Reynold
Feb 14, 2012

Suffer not the unclean to live.

Lord Humongus posted:

I just want to wow people.

My only piece of advice is to switch up the weapons a bit. With marines, I think it looks better for a contrasting color on the bolters. Your dudes are mostly green, so for example using a dark red for the bolters would be cool. On my Black Templars, I use a crimson color, which makes the weapons stand out from the stark black and white armor, but doesn't take over completely. On my Minotaurs, I use black, which I find is a nice compliment to the brass of their armor. My own Death Guard I simply use a dark metal, and then wash it with typhus corrosion and add rust effects, but my scheme is a little different than yours.

Master Twig
Oct 25, 2007

I want to branch out and I'm going to stick with it.
I had the exact same problem with a can of primer for my new Tyrannocites. All dusty and flakey and awful. I had always used simple green, but it took a while and wasn't great. For this one I tried out Super Clean. After a day the bad paint just fell right off. The plastic was perfect. Use it.

edit: vvv Yeah, I know that NOW. vvv

Master Twig fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Mar 13, 2015

Reynold
Feb 14, 2012

Suffer not the unclean to live.
Always shake the hell out of your rattlecan primer, and test the spray on cardboard or whatever junk youve got laying around first! A quick burst will usually tell you if the paint is flaky garbage, and save you the effort of stripping the primer and starting over.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003
On a somewhat model-y note, has anyone seen plans or good references for any of the buildings in Dawn of War? I want to build some but I don't have any good images.

Slimnoid
Sep 6, 2012

Does that mean I don't get the job?

berzerkmonkey posted:

On a somewhat model-y note, has anyone seen plans or good references for any of the buildings in Dawn of War? I want to build some but I don't have any good images.

You might be able to find some papercraft versions out there. I think I remember seeing some a while back. Barring that, maybe you can find some sort of 3-D model viewing program? Not sure how that works.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

Slimnoid posted:

You might be able to find some papercraft versions out there. I think I remember seeing some a while back. Barring that, maybe you can find some sort of 3-D model viewing program? Not sure how that works.

Sadly, I've never found the buildings, just vehicles. And I have no clue how to pull models from games either - I think you can only pull the skins, and not the model. I may be wrong though... I guess I'll have to try to get some screenshots and extrapolate from there.

El Estrago Bonito
Dec 17, 2010

Scout Finch Bitch

berzerkmonkey posted:

Sadly, I've never found the buildings, just vehicles. And I have no clue how to pull models from games either - I think you can only pull the skins, and not the model. I may be wrong though... I guess I'll have to try to get some screenshots and extrapolate from there.

If you have the first games I think you can just pop open the map editor and zoom in/rotate them and stuff. Not the best option but they're pretty low poly so it's not like you're gonna need in depth shots from all angles.

Unzip and Attack
Mar 3, 2008

USPOL May
So I went to Ace hardware to find Super Clean and they didn't have it, so I tried "Gunk" de-greaser and it worked perfectly. Stuff seriously stinks but it did the job. It's rainy as hell today so I'm going to hold off on re-primer, but when I do I'll take the thread's advice. Thanks everyone.

Slimnoid
Sep 6, 2012

Does that mean I don't get the job?

Unzip and Attack posted:

So I went to Ace hardware to find Super Clean and they didn't have it, so I tried "Gunk" de-greaser and it worked perfectly. Stuff seriously stinks but it did the job. It's rainy as hell today so I'm going to hold off on re-primer, but when I do I'll take the thread's advice. Thanks everyone.

For future reference, I think you'll have better luck finding Super Clean at an autobody shop like Autozone, or something like Walmart.

Weirdo
Jul 22, 2004

I stay up late :coffee:

Grimey Drawer
Any ideas for painting the base of one of my Oath minis? Maybe just a decent recipe for a dirty ground, like in a medieval marketplace.

SERPUS
Mar 20, 2004
Is there a way to wash or highlight metallic gold? I'm trying for the brightest gold I can get, so I used a white primer with a basecoat of GW Auric Armor Gold. It just looks so yellow. Its for a slightly rounded section of a robot that has some inscriptions. I want the whole thing gold, but how do I get those inscriptions to pop without making them a separate color?

Slimnoid
Sep 6, 2012

Does that mean I don't get the job?

Weirdo posted:

Any ideas for painting the base of one of my Oath minis? Maybe just a decent recipe for a dirty ground, like in a medieval marketplace.



Drybrushing progressively lighter shades of brown is a quick and easy way to go about it.


SERPUS posted:

Is there a way to wash or highlight metallic gold? I'm trying for the brightest gold I can get, so I used a white primer with a basecoat of GW Auric Armor Gold. It just looks so yellow. Its for a slightly rounded section of a robot that has some inscriptions. I want the whole thing gold, but how do I get those inscriptions to pop without making them a separate color?

The trick with gold is to start with a darker shade first. Something like a bronze, brown wash, then highlight a few shades of various gold colors. Top it off with silver along the very edges, then bring it down a bit with another brown wash.

You CAN go with just gold, but it's important to get a wash in there first. So in your case, give it a wash with agrax earthshade or whatever equivalent you have, highlight with auric, then silver. Maybe a brown wash after that.

Medium Style
Oct 11, 2002

To get back into painting, I bought some snap-together chaos marines for cheap on eBay. I'm going to paint them as different chaos armies just for fun. It's kind of liberating to stop worrying about army composition and wargear and stuff and just paint.

Here's the first one, thought I would share:


krushgroove
Oct 23, 2007

Disapproving look
Recently made some updates to the OP, including the airbrushing section (still working on the compressor section), varnishes and using spray primer. Other stuff coming soon, plus pictures!

TheCosmicMuffet
Jun 21, 2009

by Shine

Medium Style posted:

To get back into painting, I bought some snap-together chaos marines for cheap on eBay. I'm going to paint them as different chaos armies just for fun. It's kind of liberating to stop worrying about army composition and wargear and stuff and just paint.

Here's the first one, thought I would share:




Well you're officially back into painting. That looks awesome.

I can't wait to see your slaanesh and tzeentch.

big_g
Sep 24, 2004

Our young men will have to shoot down their young men at the rate of four to one, if we're to keep pace at all.
I'm currently working on a 1:48 scale WWII Corsair.

First off a coat of shiny shiny aluminium.







A coat of future and hair spray later some base colours added to the mix.









Now if these things survived a while in the pacific they really wore the paint down working hard off the carriers in high heat and salty wet conditions. So chipping ahoy!











I'm going to give the thing a coat of future then add the decals and then add some washes/filters I think.

Paolomania
Apr 26, 2006

How is the color scheme looking on this Old One? I'm freehand painting (this is a sloppy tonal blocking - blending to come later) and going for vibrant / high contrast because I will be varnishing for table top use (which always mutes everything).


Dr Hemulen
Jan 25, 2003

Awesome new OPs OP :D

I finally made a bit of progress, got these painted:



I spent a lot of time converting them, so I'm really disappointed by the how blotchy the paintjob came out. I think it's mainly because I used a base colour that was too light, modelled the clothing on the arms and legs quite poorly and tried too many new things at the same time.

I also finshed 3 bolters (after good feedback here) and a backpack in 3D for my Grey Knights, I hope to send them to the printers this weekend:

Tenasscity
Jan 1, 2010




Does anyone know a good place to get empty dropper bottles? I've been scouring old forums posts and online retailers and I cant seem to find a good deal +shipping unless I get something shipped form China (and the 2+week shipping time that entails) Any local hobby store retailers like Hobby Lobby or Michaels have decent bottles?

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Paolomania
Apr 26, 2006

Tenasscity posted:

Does anyone know a good place to get empty dropper bottles? I've been scouring old forums posts and online retailers and I cant seem to find a good deal +shipping unless I get something shipped form China (and the 2+week shipping time that entails) Any local hobby store retailers like Hobby Lobby or Michaels have decent bottles?

I got a bunch of all-LDPE-plastic dropper bottles for about 1USD/each at a brick-and-mortar art supply store like Dick Blick, but their online store seems to only have a fancier version. If you search online for "1/2 oz plastic squeeze bottle" or "15mL plastic squeeze bottle" you will find the same item sold in other contexts, so you could also try checking medical and science supply stores.

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