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I've been basing my 15mm FoW infantry lately, and am in the middle of painting my Dropzone Commander (10mm) stuff...I'm amazing at how much less space an entire army takes in the smaller scales. And with me going to historical gaming shows in the UK recently and for the rest of the year I can definitely see myself getting an army of something, in some period, at some point. It's even funnier to think that as I was reorganizing my model stuff recently I came across a couple of A4-size sheets of magnetic sticker, and I was thinking 'what the hell did I get this for??' - and eventually I realized it's to put on the underside of my FoW and 6mm stuff so I can magnetize them.
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Mar 17, 2015 10:24
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krushgroove posted:I've been basing my 15mm FoW infantry lately, and am in the middle of painting my Dropzone Commander (10mm) stuff...I'm amazing at how much less space an entire army takes in the smaller scales. And with me going to historical gaming shows in the UK recently and for the rest of the year I can definitely see myself getting an army of something, in some period, at some point. Bonus point: magnetized bases in 15mm and smaller can usually be used for fridge battles. Don't try with 15mm elephants though!
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Mar 17, 2015 10:42
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That sounds a hell of a lot better than fridge checkers!
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Mar 17, 2015 12:23
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A friend of mine is using those trays combined with a soft case for his models. I think I may switch over as well - my foam trays work well for Epic (6mm) but my 10mm Warmaster stuff is just too heavy for the trays to properly support. Those hard trays would work well - it's too bad they aren't about an inch shorter, though. All of my cases are Sabol-sized and only fit up to 13" wide.
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Mar 17, 2015 12:37
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Not sure if this has been posted or not, I haven't seen it skimming through the thread but my ageing eyes may be failing me yet. The chaps over at WAMP are running a kickstarter to fund production of their own lines of kolinsky sable brushes. Kickstarter here: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/wamp/wamp-select-series-paintbrushes Called the 'Select Series', the basic entry level pledge is £20 (disregarding the obligatory £1 to open up add-ons) and you get 4 brushes as their 'starter set' - another £7 gets you brush soap and the choice of a bamboo roll or a brush case. They're UK based too which I was surprised at, I always thought the WAMP lot had set up in the US but apparently I'm completely wrong. Free postage is in there somewhere too. Thought you guys may be interested. I certainly am, my W&N Series 7 brushes are beginning to look a little worse for wear and could do with replacing with something new and shiny  This post was not sponsored by WAMP, honest guv 
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Mar 17, 2015 12:39
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krushgroove posted:Now I'm thinking there should be a storage/transport section of the OP...considering this is thread is mostly about wargaming painting! It would definitely be useful. It has always bothered me how expensive storage options directly marketed towards miniatures seem so overpriced to storage for other things. I've almost always made or found alternatives for storage as a result, and I have known several people in the past that just don't care about their painting because they don't want to shell out the cash for that storage and just chuck their plastic in a bin. Keeping things organized can help out your painting workflow and backlog management as well that is great. I can't wait to organize my bones 1 and 2 minis. Part of the reason I don't work with them as much as I want to right now is because they are all just kind of in a huge box mixed up together so I have to dig around to find what I want.
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Mar 17, 2015 14:30
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I'm happy to do a write-up on various ways of storing models, starting with the cheap end (egg cartons with toilet paper, takeaway containers and shoe boxes), up to something like KR cases (which is all I'm familiar with), but if anyone wants to have a stab at it feel free to post it and I'll add it to the OP. I have no idea about Sabol (sp?) cases and if anyone is actually a Battlefoam fan it'd be helpful to have a few sentences about the major brands of model cases. I'm working on a 'what brush to use' section right now, but these are the things I'd like to add to the OP at some point: magnetizing pinning storage/transport basic sculpting, if there's any call for it ...is there anything else? I don't necessarily want to use Dr. Faust videos for everything - I want to give sort of equal coverage to the big YouTube channels, even GW because the OP can't ignore that GW exists - but I'm happy to do that for now, in addition to a basic write-up that includes 'what you need' and 'how to do it' in a bullet point type list. Additionally, if there are any video guides that anyone thinks could use a written guide, feel free to post it up. Not everyone has the time to sit through a long video and it may be easier to skim words to get the basic info. I also still have Bulbasaur's various guides that I need to get the images from, put onto Imgur if needed, then transfer to the new OP, so if anyone wants to do that (as in, transfer any pictures if needed and give me the BB code ready to post in), that would be really helpful. And finally, post the link to the new thread in any of the game threads you post to!
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Mar 17, 2015 15:31
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berzerkmonkey posted:A friend of mine is using those trays combined with a soft case for his models. I think I may switch over as well - my foam trays work well for Epic (6mm) but my 10mm Warmaster stuff is just too heavy for the trays to properly support. Those hard trays would work well - it's too bad they aren't about an inch shorter, though. All of my cases are Sabol-sized and only fit up to 13" wide. If your magnetizing and don't care about one of the short edges not having a side wall you could just cut off an inch of the tray with a utility knife or dremel to get them to fit. They're cheap enough it would be worth trying at least.
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Mar 17, 2015 15:41
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CA glue or white glue for gluing flock to bases? If white, should it be watered down? I used watered down Elmer's for the sand and rocks on the base, and then another layer of thinned Elmer's to seal it but I want to add some flock to that.
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Mar 17, 2015 15:59
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Dremcon posted:CA glue or white glue for gluing flock to bases? If white, should it be watered down? White glue. I don't thin but many do. I'm phone posting or I'd link it, but look for the terrain tutor on YouTube, he just did a review of best flocking methods.
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Mar 17, 2015 16:02
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Just use white glue and I always thin. I thin it for the same reason I do paints; it makes it flow better and helps prevent giant globs of glue getting stuck in some parts that don't totally dry clear.
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Mar 17, 2015 16:12
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PVA / Elmers, not watered down at all... ok maybe just a touch. But not by much. Once all my base bits and glued on, I'll go back over with a thinned out PVA / Elmers & future floor polish mix to seal it all down. This is before I undercoat, the base is always the first thing to get painted because I'm a messy drybrusher 
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Mar 17, 2015 17:05
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I use tacky glue mixed with cheap craft paint/inks. But I also make all my basing supplies and do all my basing after I paint which is not typical for mainstream fantasy/scifi stuff (very common in historicals). These aren't good miniatures, or good pics but they are an example of what I'm talking aboot:  
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Mar 17, 2015 17:17
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Should I use the purpose made Army Painter primers or can I get away with Rustoleum or Krylon automotive primer? I also seem to remember a Krylon line that is made for painting plastic.
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Mar 17, 2015 17:39
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PRESIDENT GOKU posted:Should I use the purpose made Army Painter primers or can I get away with Rustoleum or Krylon automotive primer? I also seem to remember a Krylon line that is made for painting plastic. As long as it's just primer and not paint and prime. Rusto 2X and Krylon ultra flat both work well.
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Mar 17, 2015 17:41
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krushgroove posted:...is there anything else? You're missing something pretty important from the OP, and you're gonna kick yourself when you see it
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Mar 17, 2015 17:46
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NTRabbit posted:You're missing something pretty important from the OP, and you're gonna kick yourself when you see it ...is it...one of the placeholder things like the lonely 'The' that's kind of awkwardly floating in the text? I'm seriously sleep-deprived today so I won't catch anything at the moment. e: ooh I found it! As penance I've added another video in that section! krushgroove fucked around with this message at 18:05 on Mar 17, 2015 |
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Mar 17, 2015 17:54
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PRESIDENT GOKU posted:Should I use the purpose made Army Painter primers or can I get away with Rustoleum or Krylon automotive primer? I also seem to remember a Krylon line that is made for painting plastic.
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Mar 17, 2015 17:54
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krushgroove posted:
Is this a what type of brush size to use for certain applications or is this more of a run down of brush brands and types?
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Mar 17, 2015 18:57
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Super 3 posted:Is this a what type of brush size to use for certain applications or is this more of a run down of brush brands and types? The size answer is almost always the largest one you can get away with.
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Mar 17, 2015 19:01
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Re: useful info in the OP, for the "where do I get models from" section, here are some USA-based stores to go alongside The War Store (which is an excellent store): Miniature Market http://www.miniaturemarket.com/ FRP Games http://www.frpgames.com/ Discount Games Inc http://www.discountgamesinc.com/ Noble Knight Games http://www.nobleknight.com/ Scale Hobbyist http://www.scalehobbyist.com/ (not so much a mini-related site, but has plenty of paints & tools) I've ordered several items from all of these sites (and The War Store, too) over the last year or so, and can highly recommend them all to other US-based goons. If I get a chance I'll also dig up some eBay-based retailers that have given me good service, and put links to their eBay stores up too.
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Mar 17, 2015 19:01
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enri posted:
If I'm reading their kickstarter with shipping to the US and conversion they look cheaper than buying winsor's of the same size.
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Mar 17, 2015 19:12
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Did I ask for too much attention? Sorry!
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Mar 17, 2015 19:14
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Sydney Bottocks posted:Re: useful info in the OP, for the "where do I get models from" section, here are some USA-based stores to go alongside The War Store (which is an excellent store): Fantization miniatures ( http://www.fantization.com/ ) is great as well especially since they carry a good amount of European miniature manufacturers that few other places in the states seem to touch.
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Mar 17, 2015 19:24
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Super 3 posted:Is this a what type of brush size to use for certain applications or is this more of a run down of brush brands and types? I'll add brands in the near future but after the paint section is the new brush section. It's mostly what type of brush to use as well as different types of brushes. The only brand mentioned so far is GW, and not really in a fully positive light.
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Mar 17, 2015 19:26
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I really like Raphael 8404 brushes.
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Mar 17, 2015 19:29
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krushgroove posted:I'll add brands in the near future but after the paint section is the new brush section. It's mostly what type of brush to use as well as different types of brushes. The only brand mentioned so far is GW, and not really in a fully positive light. Cool I'm in the place looking for some brushes and I don't want to pay Winsor prices but I also don't want crap. So i've been looking around on Amazon for something in between. So far i've settled on a set that are 'model painter' brand I found on Amazon but I can't really find any reviews on them?
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Mar 17, 2015 19:32
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Don't forget to mention brush care. I have been using the same Utrecht brand kolinsky sable brushes size 0/3 - 3 for the past 8 years and its largely because I clean them and reshape the points after every painting session with this stuff: http://www.dickblick.com/products/the-masters-brush-cleaner-and-preserver/ The only brush I have destroyed more or less is the size 3 Pokorny brush I received from the 1st Dwarven Forge kickstarter and it has more or less died from drybrushing 10 sets worth of dungeon and cavern tiles. Dry brushing is seriously hard on your brush.
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Mar 17, 2015 19:45
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Lord Humongus posted:Did I ask for too much attention? Sorry! Super 3 posted:Cool I'm in the place looking for some brushes and I don't want to pay Winsor prices but I also don't want crap. So i've been looking around on Amazon for something in between. So far i've settled on a set that are 'model painter' brand I found on Amazon but I can't really find any reviews on them? Basically you don't need to get Kolinsky sable or even sable hair brushes, if you're looking for good, long-lasting brushes there are good synthetic brushes from the major brands. Just get one brushes suitable for acrylics and don't get the cheapest stuff you can find. I'm sure I have some old Model Painter brushes still kicking around but mine are 15-20 years old so I can't comment on them really, and they've probably changed supplier since I got mine. nesbit37 posted:Don't forget to mention brush care. Brush care is already in the OP I did just add it today, though.
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Mar 17, 2015 20:08
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Great thread so far guys keep it up. Finished up some Stormtroopers from my Imperial Assault box and all I have to say is thank god for airbrushing white or else I would've lost my goddamn mind (I almost did after seeing the mold lines after I applied the white). C&C is always welcome. "Set blasters to stun!"
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Mar 17, 2015 20:54
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SRM posted:I'd only bother with Army Painter if you're basing an army around one of their colors. I used their Crystal Blue for my Ultras, but I've used Krylon black and white primer for everything else I've ever painted. Agreed. Also, their primer does not stand up to any sort of handling without chipping. Whatever they do to Krylon (I just use the regular stuff, not the primer) gives it a much better bond to the model. Krylon will take abuse, while the AP stuff barely holds up to game handling. In the future, if I'm doing a large army, I'm just going to use my airbrush - I can go over the Krylon and have the added benefit of ensuring I get a good color match. nesbit37 posted:If your magnetizing and don't care about one of the short edges not having a side wall you could just cut off an inch of the tray with a utility knife or dremel to get them to fit. They're cheap enough it would be worth trying at least.
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Mar 17, 2015 21:25
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Lord Humongus posted:Did I ask for too much attention? Sorry! I didn't respond, honestly, because the photos didn't seem as clear as the last batch, and I really couldn't see the differences, if any from what you'd done with the claw guy and bolter dude. I saw you had a big rock he was kind of jumping off, but it looked like it wasn't finished. So uh. I guess it looks good? And to follow up on krush, whatever it is you're doing, it needs to be obvious enough that it a) stands out from a distance of a couple feet away and b) distinguishes models from each other. So one guy as a follow up is cool, but try painting a squad at a time with a *pronounced* unique thing that makes that squad cohesive and different from your other squads. Maybe one squad is standing on rocks in acid puddles, but another squad is walking through a field of brightly colored aquarium plants. A 3rd squad might have armor so scorched and pitted it doesn't really look green anymore. Whatever. Composition can be more powerful than technique in terms of the overall success of your color choices and conversions. Some of my favorite squads were basically 3 colors and involved a lot of half-assed washes and drybrushing on my part. And don't worry about attention. There's times when these guys won't stop loving talking about solvents for 6 goddamned pages and trying to speculate on what brand of local floor polish is equivalent to what Ukrainian lighter fluid or whatever. A guy asking about stuff he painted is a welcome relief.
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Mar 17, 2015 21:27
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berzerkmonkey posted:Agreed. Also, their primer does not stand up to any sort of handling without chipping.  Even after multiple coats of varnish, a number of my Ultras have chipped paintjobs and it breaks my heart.
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Mar 17, 2015 22:11
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Does anyone have a recommendation for drybrush brushes? (Preferably ones that are available on Amazon) I need some for terrain and figures.
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Mar 17, 2015 22:46
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The Sisko posted:Great thread so far guys keep it up. Finished up some Stormtroopers from my Imperial Assault box and all I have to say is thank god for airbrushing white or else I would've lost my goddamn mind (I almost did after seeing the mold lines after I applied the white). C&C is always welcome. Looking awesome dude.
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Mar 17, 2015 22:54
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dexefiend posted:Does anyone have a recommendation for drybrush brushes? (Preferably ones that are available on Amazon) I prefer flats
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Mar 17, 2015 22:56
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dexefiend posted:Does anyone have a recommendation for drybrush brushes? (Preferably ones that are available on Amazon) The OP was just updated today with brush suggestions, as signalnoise says flats are pretty good, try a synthetic as it has good 'snap' (it's much stiffer than natural hair) and consider a chisel tip brush as well.
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Mar 18, 2015 00:19
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I actually really like the GW drybrushes. Overpriced, naturally, but they work well.
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Mar 18, 2015 00:37
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dexefiend posted:Does anyone have a recommendation for drybrush brushes? (Preferably ones that are available on Amazon) I use Creative Mark Beste chisel brushes for that. Not exactly on Amazon (it's through Jerry's Artarama) but here's what it is.
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Mar 18, 2015 00:41
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I like the generic dick blick brand- I use them for drybrushing, alcohol paints, and oils. They last a long time and are cheap.
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Mar 18, 2015 01:36
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