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SRM posted:Been a while since I painted anything new for the Ultramarines and their moderately expendable IG buddies! I was able to trade a friend for one of the old Skullz Techpriests, and I had some Servitors lying around so I painted up the unit of them: Old school style owns, SRM owns, everything owns Edit: those shouldn't be lost on the end of a page. Edit edit: Krylon Matte varnish sucks loving rear end and if you're thinking of using it, kill yourself instead. Fyrbrand fucked around with this message at 04:58 on Mar 20, 2015 |
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Mar 20, 2015 04:39
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I finished painting and basing all of the miniatures from the Battle of Five Armies Games Workshop game this past Tuesday. Took me about a month total for all of these, they are 10mm scale for more or less Warmaster rules. More than 1200 individual figures. Was lots of fun, and looking forward to doing more that I picked up from other lines at this scale. If anyone has tips on doing 10mm faces I would love to hear them. I am fine with the troops as they are but would have liked to do a bit more with the heroes. Washes didn't work to well, it either blocked everything out or you just couldn't tell. I didn't try much else on that from though. The Baccus 6mm basing kit was great as well. nothing special about it except the fine grained sand and extra short static grass that was critical for basing these guys at this scale. Most of the armies, though not all as not all of the stands would fit in 1 tray!  All 10 of the hero stands  Dain and his guard on one stand, and Thorin with Fili and Kili on the other to lead the Dwarves into battle!  Beorn as a bear fights with Gandalf, Bilbo and the eagles  Thruanduil leads the elves into the fray  Bolg and his guard as well as a goblin shame take their hoard to the fight  Bard leads the small force from Lake Town  Warg riders rush in spears first  The warg force is eager to rush in lead by two goblin captains
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Mar 20, 2015 14:38
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drat dude, that's an impressive force painted quick! The short static grass is a really nice touch; I never would have thought to look for it when it really seems like a no-brainer now that you mention it. Fyrbrand posted:Old school style owns, SRM owns, everything owns Danke mucho broham  Is Krylon Matte varnish fogging up for you? I've never thought of using it since Testors is so solid.
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Mar 20, 2015 15:02
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Wow. That is all kinds of bad rear end. What exact static grass did you use? I've been looking to replicate that really vivid green color but can't seem to find it at my local hobby store. E: Also, I'm creating small units of historicals at the 1/72 scale, based on balsa wood sheets that measure about 4x5. I'd like to add something to the sheets that can hold a "flag pole" with banners on each one for easy identification. Any ideas on how I might do this in a way that doesn't look too artificial? Unzip and Attack fucked around with this message at 15:17 on Mar 20, 2015 |
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Mar 20, 2015 15:12
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Here's an Eradicator that I finished last week:     I love tanks.
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Mar 20, 2015 15:23
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The Sex Cannon posted:Here's an Eradicator that I finished last week: looks solid! https://youtu.be/qFO1O020uyw?t=46s
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Mar 20, 2015 15:48
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Unzip and Attack posted:Wow. That is all kinds of bad rear end. Thanks. The static grass is on this page: https://www.baccus6mm.com/catalogue/Basesandbasingmaterials/BasingMaterials/ I ordered the basing system and its pretty good especially for the price. As mentioned though all you really need is the grass if you can find the fine grain sand. I picked up one of those uff puffs as well and it makes basing with static grass go quicker than without. I don't know why, but I have always had a difficult time finding static grass in stores in the US. I went to a 3 story model train shop in PA a few months ago and asked about it and they didn't even know what static grass was.
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Mar 20, 2015 17:43
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I hope you post here. To the goon who painted those awesome 6mm vikings for Saga, can you post the images here? I have a friend who may be interested in starting up Saga in 6mm with me, I just want to show him how awesome they look even in 6mm.
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Mar 20, 2015 17:44
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SRM posted:drat dude, that's an impressive force painted quick! The short static grass is a really nice touch; I never would have thought to look for it when it really seems like a no-brainer now that you mention it. It's not fogging up, but I've done 4 applications and it hasn't cut the gloss shine at all. I shook it for a solid 5 minutes to be absolutely sure it was mixed, still no effect. Dullcote is getting harder to find locally, so I was hoping to find an alternative.
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Mar 20, 2015 18:05
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nesbit37 posted:
Huh? Where's his Elk?
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Mar 20, 2015 18:11
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:Huh? Where's his Elk? GW messed that one up. I ordered a set of these elves on stags though and am going to mod one of them into a proper Thruanduil on an Elk.
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Mar 20, 2015 18:14
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Making bright pink look badass isn't easy, that looks really really good.
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Mar 20, 2015 19:03
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TarDolphinorShark posted:I hope you post here. To the goon who painted those awesome 6mm vikings for Saga, can you post the images here? I have a friend who may be interested in starting up Saga in 6mm with me, I just want to show him how awesome they look even in 6mm. I'll do it this weekend. Once I finish my March and April Oaths I will be finished all my based minis and be able to play an incredibly flexible game of 6mm Saga  (I wanted to brag a little).
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Mar 20, 2015 19:20
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TarDolphinorShark posted:I hope you post here. To the goon who painted those awesome 6mm vikings for Saga, can you post the images here? I have a friend who may be interested in starting up Saga in 6mm with me, I just want to show him how awesome they look even in 6mm. Try the historicals thread also (I need to put the link in the OP), there are loads of Saga players in there.
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Mar 20, 2015 19:49
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Post 9-11 User posted:Making bright pink look badass isn't easy, that looks really really good. Thank you! I really wanted to go with pink instead of purple, but I tried to keep the pink portions to a minimum compared to the black. I wanted them to look like the GW boxes, same with the Nurgle guy. Some crazy great painters in this thread, but I'm also impressed at everyone doing their own sculpting or casting, 'cause drat.
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Mar 20, 2015 21:48
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Your limited use of gold, bone, and light blue as bonus colors helps, too. The metal colors are super dark yet still look like metal, it's delightful.
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Mar 20, 2015 22:06
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Is the Army Painter's Wolf Grey spray close to GW's russ grey at all?
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Mar 20, 2015 22:10
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So thank you to the lovely people in here who suggested using purple wash to shade red; it appears to be voodoo. This thread rules. ... Is there an equivalent unholy magic for blue?
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Mar 20, 2015 22:31
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magnetbox posted:Is the Army Painter's Wolf Grey spray close to GW's russ grey at all?
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Mar 20, 2015 22:34
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Fyrbrand posted:It's not fogging up, but I've done 4 applications and it hasn't cut the gloss shine at all. I shook it for a solid 5 minutes to be absolutely sure it was mixed, still no effect. Dullcote is getting harder to find locally, so I was hoping to find an alternative. I use (brush on) a thin layer of Liquitex Matte Varnish and although it's no dullcote it gets things down to a low satin.
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Mar 21, 2015 00:02
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evenworse username posted:So thank you to the lovely people in here who suggested using purple wash to shade red; it appears to be voodoo. This thread rules. A dark violet should work. That's what I would use if I was drawing in color. Based on what I remember from an advanced drawing class years ago, these are generally the colors you want to use to tint or shade your color: Yellow: white for tints, brown for shades Orange: yellow or white for tints, brown or red for shades Red: white or pink for tints, violet or blue for shades Violet: white or red for tints, blue or black for shades Blue: white for tints, black for shades Green: yellow or white for tints, blue or black for shades Something to consider when working with color is that you can use adjacent colors on the color wheel to lighten or darken your base color. Pure hues also have a natural value to them, meaning that some colors are naturally lighter or darker than others. Yellow is brighter than violet. Blue is darker than orange. If you gradually add violet to a red, you can create a more painterly and natural shadow. Also, complimentary colors will neutralize each other when they are mixed. Mixing blue with orange will create a brown. Mixing all three primary colors will also neutralize into a brown as well. Neutralizing colors just a little bit with their compliments is a good way to mix a more natural color, like adding a little bit of red to a green to create a forest green.
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Mar 21, 2015 01:07
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What are the GW "classic" eye/lens colors for Khorne and Tzeentch chaos marines? Is it bright green for both?
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Mar 21, 2015 01:14
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Looks like it, yeah.
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Mar 21, 2015 01:47
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This is my necron army that I finished in two weeks for a tournament.    It's not super-pretty, only got a 5 in painting score. (On a 0-5-10-15-20 scale)
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Mar 21, 2015 02:28
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Star Man posted:Awesome stuff Thank you very much indeed, this is awesome.
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Mar 21, 2015 02:30
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DJ Dizzy posted:It's not super-pretty, only got a 5 in painting score. (On a 0-5-10-15-20 scale) I mean, that isn't the most fantastic paint job ever or anything, but it's pretty clean looking. The competition must've been pretty amazing for you to only end up in the 25th percentile.
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Mar 21, 2015 02:54
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JerryLee posted:I mean, that isn't the most fantastic paint job ever or anything, but it's pretty clean looking. The competition must've been pretty amazing for you to only end up in the 25th percentile. This won best painted:  and this was the runnerup 
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Mar 21, 2015 03:58
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I'm having a hell of a time trying to figure out which non-gun arms go with which gun arms. Couldn't they be assed to letter these things so I don't glue a gun arm and try to force the wrong non-gun arm on? I have no way of knowing other than 'yea that looks OK I guess.' Also, are Tau shoulder pads supposed to consume the entire non-gun arm? Literally the only thing showing is the wrist and hand.
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Mar 21, 2015 06:16
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evenworse username posted:So thank you to the lovely people in here who suggested using purple wash to shade red; it appears to be voodoo. This thread rules. If you can score some blue ink (not wash) it might do some wavy stuff when washed over light gray. The only ink magic I truly know is to use sepia wash over a base coat of bright metal (used to be called Mythril Silver) to get gold. Gold takes a bunch of coats, any of the gunmetal colors go on in two or less. DJ Dizzy posted:This is my necron army that I finished in two weeks for a tournament. I was admiring your army in the other thread, 5 is an absurdly low score. Post 9-11 User fucked around with this message at 08:41 on Mar 21, 2015 |
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Mar 21, 2015 08:39
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Post 9-11 User posted:I was admiring your army in the other thread, 5 is an absurdly low score. I agree. Those other armies are really nice, granted, and they're probably better than yours (and anything of mine for that matter) but not four times as good (I'm assuming they got 20).
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Mar 21, 2015 09:02
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Spent all day watching basketball and painting this. Got a little sloppy towards the end, but who cares; looks tight. 
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Mar 21, 2015 09:06
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 Paging Fyrbrand What recipe do you use for the armour and skin? Got a single salamander to paint and not done one before
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Mar 21, 2015 09:11
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:Spent all day watching basketball and painting this. Got a little sloppy towards the end, but who cares; looks tight. That red with those blendings is so. drat. Tight. Terrific job!
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Mar 21, 2015 10:01
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Yeah Gareth, that tiny-rear end ship is hella sloppy, get it outta here. Sheesh. Cross-posting from the Reaper Bones thread: This was a really fun and interesting project, I just wish I had more time to get the paint on these suckers but let's blame the west coast shipping slowdown for the time it took to get these all the way to the UK. I managed to rush some pictures before I boxed them up:    I never - EVER - want to paint an anus ever again.     More pictures: https://plus.google.com/photos/101792256154658567736/albums/6128309521959404769?authkey=COrR-s3d8teVdQ
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Mar 21, 2015 12:19
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krushgroove posted:
1/10 no ring etc Nice work, I'll provide a full review when I get hold of them!
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Mar 21, 2015 12:20
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PRESIDENT GOKU posted:I'm having a hell of a time trying to figure out which non-gun arms go with which gun arms. Couldn't they be assed to letter these things so I don't glue a gun arm and try to force the wrong non-gun arm on? I have no way of knowing other than 'yea that looks OK I guess.' Also, are Tau shoulder pads supposed to consume the entire non-gun arm? Literally the only thing showing is the wrist and hand. Regarding shoulder pads: pretty much, yeah. Regarding arms: The Fire Warrior kit might be old enough that the sprues aren't labelled with what arms go together, but they should at least be paired together on the sprue. It is definitely a little frustrating, though, and one of the reasons why a lot of people assemble before painting. Even so, it's not a bad idea to get Dixie cups or whatever to organize your dudes while you're cleaning them, unless you generally have time to get them from sprue to assembly in one go or you're doing them all individually. I'd jump in the channel to talk about it, but I don't have my laptop this weekend.
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Mar 21, 2015 13:23
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 Finally finished my Bones orc. Not super happy with it but 2/3rds of my GW paints dried up so I didn't have much to work with  . I really didn't like working with the bonesium. I don't expect to be getting any more bones, I'll stick to the metal
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Mar 21, 2015 15:48
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Skarsnik posted:
Oh god it's been so long since painting them.  GW Snot green for the armor. I don't think I washed it or anything. Snot green + GW golden yellow + P3 Menoth White Highlight for highlights. Mix in more as you go, you know the drill. I think the skin was just Codex Grey given several heavy washes of Badab Black or Nuln Oil. Highlights with the grey again, and I probably mixed in some Astronomican Grey too. IIRC Warpstone Glow is a perfect match for old Snot Green. Hope that helps!
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Mar 21, 2015 16:24
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Sorry for the quote from the old thread...Serotonin posted:I have finally cracked the whip and got my gaming group to finish the Malifaux crew we all clubbed together to buy for another member of the group whos recently been diagnosed with cancer and is having a tough time. Im really pleased with everyones efforts and the crew, despite being painted by 5 different people, all hang together well (I think me doing all the basing so it all looks the same has helped big time). but just an update to say my mates treatment was successful and has just been given the all clear. Thanks to everyone who gave their best wishes in the last thread.
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Mar 21, 2015 16:49
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You're good people, and you painted good minis.
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Mar 21, 2015 17:38
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