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Here's the best pics I could get of my Crystal Brush entry in the case.  
JoshTheStampede fucked around with this message at 18:12 on Mar 21, 2015 |
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Mar 21, 2015 18:10
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| # ? May 4, 2024 01:06 |
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:Spent all day watching basketball and painting this. Got a little sloppy towards the end, but who cares; looks tight. This looks fantastic. Did you do anything special for the water? I love the way that came out.
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Mar 21, 2015 18:20
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Finished some Oath stuff       Dakkajet  Stormboy Nob  Crusader  Priest  Mystic
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Mar 21, 2015 19:00
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Sigh. I hate to ask this because I know it was in the old thread but hell if I can find the post - what's the current label for Pledge/Future Floor Wax that can be used as a gloss varnish? The store has practically a whole shelf full of various kinds and none of them seemed to be exactly right, but I know it got rebranded recently(?).
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Mar 21, 2015 19:00
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Ryoshi posted:Sigh. I hate to ask this because I know it was in the old thread but hell if I can find the post - what's the current label for Pledge/Future Floor Wax that can be used as a gloss varnish? The store has practically a whole shelf full of various kinds and none of them seemed to be exactly right, but I know it got rebranded recently(?). Pledge Floor Care, I believe. It might be Pledge Floor Finish with Future Shine, one of the two. If it's clear and says finish on it, it's probably the same stuff.
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Mar 21, 2015 19:09
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SirJoeKCB posted:This looks fantastic. Did you do anything special for the water? I love the way that came out. Nope, same as all the rest of my Dreadfleet. A splotchy layer of Minitaire Royal Blood, dry brush reaper sky blue followed by VGC wolf grey. Also, forgot I painted these guys while more interested in basketball, waiting for washes to dry, or really tired of painting endless gold trim, rings, and cannons. First time painting bones. It's kind of a pain in the rear end. 
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Mar 21, 2015 19:16
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Ryoshi posted:Sigh. I hate to ask this because I know it was in the old thread but hell if I can find the post - what's the current label for Pledge/Future Floor Wax that can be used as a gloss varnish? The store has practically a whole shelf full of various kinds and none of them seemed to be exactly right, but I know it got rebranded recently(?). IIRC, this should be the bottle/label being used currently. 
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Mar 21, 2015 19:42
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Ryoshi posted:Sigh. I hate to ask this because I know it was in the old thread but hell if I can find the post - what's the current label for Pledge/Future Floor Wax that can be used as a gloss varnish? The store has practically a whole shelf full of various kinds and none of them seemed to be exactly right, but I know it got rebranded recently(?). FYI if it was mentioned in the old thread it should be in the OP, and it is  just a note for anyone looking for info! If anything is missing just mention it or pm me and I'll add it as soon as I can.
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Mar 21, 2015 20:04
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Fyrbrand posted:Oh god it's been so long since painting them. Nice one, cheers dude
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Mar 21, 2015 20:23
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So are those squadron seam-scrapers any use? They're only like $10 with prime shipping and I'm debating picking one up. I figure you guys would be the people to ask about mold line removal.
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Mar 21, 2015 21:05
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Crossposting from the Warmachine thread.QuasarInfinity posted:Am I too late for the Wrongeye and Snapjaw chat? I got these guys nearly a year ago. When I opened the box I took one look at Snapjaw, closed the box, and put it on my shelf until a few weeks ago. Finally assembling them was exactly as awful as I imagined. Snapjaw and the requisite bull snapper are in fact filled with green stuff to keep them together. Wrongeye, however, was easy to assemble and delightful to paint. Any criticism, especially on how to take less terrible photos, would be appreciated. Also, does anyone have a good guide on how to use water effects? I mean the most absolute basic stuff like getting stagnant, swampy looking water for bases. QuasarInfinity fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Mar 21, 2015 |
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Mar 21, 2015 21:36
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I'm certain I hosed up the gun arm - no gun arm ratio by probably 60% Without any markings on the sprues it is impossible to know which arms go with which, and relying on the assumption that whatever arms are across from each other are pairs is bad. If it wasn't for the huge shoulder pads my shoddy matching jobs would be a glaring problem to many a neckbeard. There has to be an easier way to learn how to match arms.
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Mar 21, 2015 21:36
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everythingWasBees posted:So are those squadron seam-scrapers any use? They're only like $10 with prime shipping and I'm debating picking one up. I figure you guys would be the people to ask about mold line removal. Haven't seen those, I just use a the back of a knife blade. I use a retractable scalpel blade handle (so I don't stab myself) and if I plan ahead I have a spare x-acto handle with a dull blade for the mold lines. Mostly I just use the back of a blade and needle files. If you don’t have needle files that's a better investment than a mold line remover, I think.
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Mar 21, 2015 23:01
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Painting yet another one of my brother's impulse purchases, I'm going to have fun doing some more complex stuff on this one than that awful, awful fortification set. Like I said before: plan ahead! Oh my gaaahd, plan ahead. Black basecoat using a rattlecan, the wonderous Privateer Press black spray. Heavy drybrush with dark-dark grey. Some drybrushing with light grey. I think a goon told me a gajillion years ago to start white brushing with a shade of grey and it looks promising. This is after one coat:  Plan ahead! The metal trim is very, very easy to paint, so it is okay to slop onto it a bit. Avoid leaving bubbles in the paint, don't sweat covering the errors later, the process will go much quicker if you slap paint on the "lower" layers of color then cover up the "errors" on your upper layers. It's a bit like paleontology, I guess? You're generally going from the deepest/lowest parts of the model to the upper parts. Drybrushing has seemed cheap to me for ages, but it works well on large models and this will be very easy to correct sloppy edges/lines with more black paint or some manual lining.
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Mar 22, 2015 00:06
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TarDolphinorShark posted:I hope you post here. To the goon who painted those awesome 6mm vikings for Saga, can you post the images here? I have a friend who may be interested in starting up Saga in 6mm with me, I just want to show him how awesome they look even in 6mm.       My good camera died its final death and so you get lovely tablet photos, sorry.
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Mar 22, 2015 01:41
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If I over primed my hams, can I dump them in a bucket of simple green and get the spray paint primer off? How should I dilute the simple green? Will I simply dissolve my hams? What if I'm gay?
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Mar 22, 2015 01:55
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PRESIDENT GOKU posted:If I over primed my hams, can I dump them in a bucket of simple green and get the spray paint primer off? How should I dilute the simple green? Will I simply dissolve my hams? Simple green will remove primer, will not damage hams, you are and have always been super gay.
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Mar 22, 2015 02:08
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Indolent Bastard posted:Simple green will remove primer, will not damage hams, you are and have always been super gay. Yay. Do I simply empty a bottle of simple green into a bowl and soak my hams? I want to make sure I don't need to dilute it, and I need to know how long I should let them soak.
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Mar 22, 2015 02:40
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drink it
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Mar 22, 2015 02:41
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PRESIDENT GOKU posted:Yay. Use a container with a lid. It's not toxic but it does have an odor. You want something that you can close with a good seal and leave for however long it takes. As for how long that is, you can check it as often as you like but there's no reason not to leave it overnight at least, unless you are super desperate to begin (re-)painting.
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Mar 22, 2015 02:54
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JerryLee posted:Use a container with a lid. It's not toxic but it does have an odor. You want something that you can close with a good seal and leave for however long it takes. I am talking about stripping plastic minis, not metal. I don't want to discover my minis are a soupy slick of polymers on the surface of the simple green in the morning.
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Mar 22, 2015 03:06
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Simple green won't melt plastic at any concentration. It barely eats paint.
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Mar 22, 2015 03:14
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I've left plastic GW models in Super Clean, which is more powerful than Simple Green, for literal months with no problem. Simple Green is not going to melt your mans, full stop.
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Mar 22, 2015 03:20
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I think I'll stop obsessing about it and paint them first.
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Mar 22, 2015 03:58
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WIP of my Imperial Knight that I'm trying to finish before I play Bulbsaur later this week. His name is Ragnarok 
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Mar 22, 2015 06:46
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Regarding the stripping of miniatures: I use Purple Power and previously had/currently have the following floating in jars/Tupperware dishes of it: -hard plastic WW2 Germans and Russians -various metal figures (for use in Mordheim, Warmachine, etc) -"restic" figures (made by Mantic and Privateer Press) -Reaper Bones PVC plastic figures -full resin models from a couple of different companies As others have mentioned, I also have left these guys to soak in the stuff for days/weeks/months on end, with no ill effects (tho it will render super glue brittle if left to soak for long enough, so be mindful of that if you want to retain the super glued areas for whatever reason). In short, neither Simple Green (the weakest), Purple Power (the mid-range) or Castrol Super Clean (apparently the strongest but I haven't used it myself) will harm a metal/plastic/restic/whatever hair on your miniatures' heads. Also be mindful that, as a degreaser, this stuff will literally strip the oils from your fingers and dry them out in a most nasty fashion. So be sure to wear gloves when using it in an undiluted form. 
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Mar 22, 2015 06:52
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Indolent Bastard posted:
Pro pics anyway. What diameter do you use for bases? 1cm? Half inch?
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Mar 22, 2015 12:48
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Anybody have any ideas on the best models for 40k hiveworld gangsters or civilians? I'm wanting to convert a genestealer cult with a hiveworld theme but I'm having trouble finding any good models for non-military humans.
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Mar 22, 2015 13:13
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nopantsjack posted:Anybody have any ideas on the best models for 40k hiveworld gangsters or civilians? I'm wanting to convert a genestealer cult with a hiveworld theme but I'm having trouble finding any good models for non-military humans. Necromunda gangers, if you can get them from ebay cheaply. Otherwise, probably anything 28mm punk-ish would look about right. What codex(es) are you planning on using?
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Mar 22, 2015 13:52
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I'm thinking of doing Grey Knights in normal, oldschool grey instead of silver, kinda like these: Does anybody have better suggestions? These are a bit dark, and I think I like that, as it should contrast with the gold and red/white nicely.,
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Mar 22, 2015 14:31
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Simple green won't melt plastic at any concentration. It barely eats paint. Yeah, if all you have is Simple Green, I'd heat it up too. That will help a lot.
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Mar 22, 2015 14:32
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nopantsjack posted:Anybody have any ideas on the best models for 40k hiveworld gangsters or civilians? I'm wanting to convert a genestealer cult with a hiveworld theme but I'm having trouble finding any good models for non-military humans. Chaos Cultists should do the part if you remove the stars. http://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Chaos-Space-Marines-Cultists - they have an 'underground scavvy' look to them. If you're not bothered about sticking to GW stuff there's a bunch of options: Heresy miniatures have a gang set that are fairly close in style to the old Delaque stuff - http://heresyminiatures.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2_15 - may make nice veterans but would get expensive for a larger army. If you're after a less uniform rabble, Hasslefree have a line of 'modern adventurers' with some guys who look like regular people who found some guns - http://www.hfminis.co.uk/shop?category=modern-%26%0D%0Apost%252dapoc~modern-adventurers You could probably adapt some of these guys into a militia too, though they're much more 'realistic modern age' than the above - http://www.wargamesfactory.com/webstore/dark-futures/apocalypse-survivors-men (there's another pack of women too).
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Mar 22, 2015 14:34
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lilljonas posted:Pro pics anyway. What diameter do you use for bases? 1cm? Half inch? Have some better ones courtesy of the wife's camera           For the bases I used washers. The foot troops are on washers with a 3/8 inch outside diameter and the mounted troops are on washers with a 5/8 inch outside diameter. E: The bolded underlining is there because washers are typically labelled with the diameter of the hole, not the diameter of the outside edge of the washer. Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 15:52 on Mar 22, 2015 |
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Mar 22, 2015 15:07
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Anyone have any recommendations for good scenic basing tutorials? I want to base my Legion in snowy mountainy type bases but I don't want to stick cork tiles ( too flat) or just normal rocks on the bases
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Mar 22, 2015 15:37
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Oh man those vikings look super cool! I'm finally getting somewhere with these Eldar I've been painting:   Edge highlighting these were a pain, but at least there's only 6 figures to do - the guy I'm painting these for wanted every weapon option for the Wave Serpent, though.   They're meant to look a little battleworn and not super clean, they're going to line up alongside a DE force with the same color scheme.
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Mar 22, 2015 15:40
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gilljoy posted:Anyone have any recommendations for good scenic basing tutorials? Bark mulch, snow flock, dead grass tufts. Good to go.
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Mar 22, 2015 15:56
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:Bark mulch, snow flock, dead grass tufts. Good to go. Brilliant idea, anyone know where to pick them up in the UK? The mulch that is?
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Mar 22, 2015 16:44
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gilljoy posted:Brilliant idea, anyone know where to pick them up in the UK? The mulch that is? http://www.homebase.co.uk/en/homebaseuk/garden/feed-weed-and-lawn-care/bark-and-mulch https://www.mulch.co.uk/ Most garden stores and some DIY/home repair shops should have it in stock. In the states we have places like Home Depot and Ace Hardware to get stuff like this, so whatever is the equivalent for you over there ought to carry it too.
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Mar 22, 2015 16:52
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mods please rename thread to Steady Hands, Scrunty Eyes tia
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Mar 22, 2015 17:02
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Does anyone have experience or a tutorial for recasting parts in clear resin?
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Mar 22, 2015 20:59
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