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Sulecrist
Apr 5, 2007

Better tear off this bar association logo.
Do I need to thin Liquitex varnish (gloss, if it matters) at all if I want to shoot it through an airbrush? If so, what should I thin it with?

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Sulecrist
Apr 5, 2007

Better tear off this bar association logo.
Here's one of my Kill Teams:

Sulecrist
Apr 5, 2007

Better tear off this bar association logo.
I just finished painting my first thousand points of these marines. I still need to add a couple of details here and there (OSL on a Techmarine, chapter badges, that kind of thing), but everybody's got their first coat of varnish and they're ready for my first all-painted 1k game this weekend. I'm especially happy with how my faces are coming. Here are the last three models I finished:

Sulecrist
Apr 5, 2007

Better tear off this bar association logo.

PRESIDENT GOKU posted:

I'm having a hell of a time trying to figure out which non-gun arms go with which gun arms. Couldn't they be assed to letter these things so I don't glue a gun arm and try to force the wrong non-gun arm on? I have no way of knowing other than 'yea that looks OK I guess.' Also, are Tau shoulder pads supposed to consume the entire non-gun arm? Literally the only thing showing is the wrist and hand.

Regarding shoulder pads: pretty much, yeah.

Regarding arms: The Fire Warrior kit might be old enough that the sprues aren't labelled with what arms go together, but they should at least be paired together on the sprue. It is definitely a little frustrating, though, and one of the reasons why a lot of people assemble before painting. Even so, it's not a bad idea to get Dixie cups or whatever to organize your dudes while you're cleaning them, unless you generally have time to get them from sprue to assembly in one go or you're doing them all individually.

I'd jump in the channel to talk about it, but I don't have my laptop this weekend.

Sulecrist
Apr 5, 2007

Better tear off this bar association logo.
Cross-posting: I painted a model for my Dark Heresy character. He's supposed to have a chainsword but I like the Kasrkin stuff so much I didn't want to cut it up.

Note the black rim.





Sulecrist
Apr 5, 2007

Better tear off this bar association logo.
Sorry for all of the image spam lately but there were some very kind requests for more army pics and I took a bunch of glamor shots for The Flying Monkeys blog so here's a gigantic dump.













EDIT: did some cropping and magic wand color stuff

Sulecrist fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Mar 29, 2015

Sulecrist
Apr 5, 2007

Better tear off this bar association logo.
At some point I'm going to need to get the water out of my compressor's moisture trap, right? How exactly do I go about doing that?

Sulecrist
Apr 5, 2007

Better tear off this bar association logo.

BULBASAUR posted:

X posting from the 40K thread.


I also started a lovely blog if you're into bad puns. All my tutorials, image dumps, and libertarian rants are there- so you don't have to dig through my post history (lets face it, nobody wants to dig through 100 pages of BULBASAUR poo poo posts).

God I love your stuff so much. I've been meaning to ask, where did those drum-mag bolters come from?

I mixed up a nice shade of sea-green and am painting up a tester...

Sulecrist
Apr 5, 2007

Better tear off this bar association logo.
Cross-post: I (mostly) finished my Captain. This was my second attempt at blending instead of layering, and I learned a lot. Pretty happy with him, although I'm seeing a couple of details I need to go back and clean up.





Sulecrist
Apr 5, 2007

Better tear off this bar association logo.
I've been using more GW lately after focusing on P3 for non-Technical, non-metallic for a couple of years. I use VGA and sometimes VMA in my airbrush but I am a paint eater so I prefer GW/P3 on a brush. Between those two, it really varies color by color for me. My blacks are P3, flesh is increasingly GW, whites are P3, saturated purples and blues are GW, etc.

Sulecrist
Apr 5, 2007

Better tear off this bar association logo.
Excellent job. That flag is magnificent. drill your barrels

Sulecrist
Apr 5, 2007

Better tear off this bar association logo.
THIS IS THE NEW poo poo



malal donated the sigmarine as a very funny joke, and i painted him up to be a caricatured npc villain

Sulecrist
Apr 5, 2007

Better tear off this bar association logo.

signalnoise posted:

RE: Do the fundamentals

In an effort to set up a painting plan and take some of the brainwork out of it, I'm following Duncan Rhodes' painting advice, and also using GW paint to take guesswork out of picking basecoat and highlights and poo poo. As an aside, I am finding that I really like these paints. The pots can go to hell, but the whole base/layer distinction, when you actually use it, is coming along pretty well on my test stuff.

Now, the question: I'm painting this guy-



I've successfully put a basecoat of mephiston red down on his skin, and now I get to go about painting his armor plates. I want some metallic highlights at the end, but I don't want to paint the whole set of armor with an actual metallic, I think. What kind of color should I put down as a basecoat? I was thinking I could go with black and drybrush on some metal, but I think there's too much flat area for that. How do I (simply) get a decent looking set of well-used steel armor on this guy?

Yay! There's not too much flat area. But if you try it and still disagree, hold/stick the dude upside down and then put a little brown or a second dribble of black in the parts that would be grimiest.

Sulecrist
Apr 5, 2007

Better tear off this bar association logo.
I ordered a Sotar 2020 for $87 on Amazon just now. That's a good deal, right?

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Sulecrist
Apr 5, 2007

Better tear off this bar association logo.

Z the IVth posted:

Has anyone used GW's Agrellan Earth crackle paint? What's the verdict?

I like it, but it's a little fragile. Also, don't expect it to fill gaps--I used it on some DZC models, with five 10mm dudes on a stand, and it didn't completely obscure the rings where the parts met.

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