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Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

BizarroAzrael posted:

Thanks for this, I was asking previously about Contrast paints (which I believe are interchangeable enough with Xpress Paint) through an airbrush to paint a tank to match my army painted with a Contrast colour (Sigvald Burgundy)

Because of the nature of the technique I'm not 100% sure, but it seems like the colour will be even and not really do the pooling you get when using a normal brush? Probably what makes it useful for vehicles but it will mean I'll need to do something to make it not look flat since this will be over a silver basecoat. Maybe the shade wash will sort it?

I haven't tried it myself but from what I have watched in painting videos, contrast paints through an airbrush end up being very translucent almost like a filter. So yeah, you don't get the pooling but you may get a very even spraying of transparent colour, which might get you what you want anyway because the underlying white to black gradient will make it look lighter or darker.

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Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Just google "goku cloud figure" and make a ball of green stuff that looks vaguely brain shaped and volumetric shade it so it looks like an anime cloud, ez pz

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

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An Avatar is like $100 USD MSRP so when you add the paint together it's basically a free class!

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

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Is Helmet and Shoulderguards over Underwear the standard Clanner combat attire

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

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I like the mould line remover cause it's pretty good for old kits like Tyranids. It just bulldozes those thick mold lines into nothingness. Not really a must grab item though.

I would say grab Agrax Earthshade, Nuln Oil and a brown contrast paint of your choice. Even if you use stuff like oil washes or enamels, the acrylic washes are great for stuff you don't need the precision for like terrain. Brown contrast paint is just for tiny gribbly bits like leather pouches or belts. Just slap that poo poo on and move on with life.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Got some painting done during Christmas




The Obliterator is actually a pretty decently chunky guy with a lot of detail but I had to keep telling myself not to get bogged down if I want to get my army done sometime this century

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Makeup container with a lid.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Haven't tried it but I assume you just wash white with light blue and then drybrush back up with white

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Jonny Nox posted:

upcoming video? I'd like to see that.

Also, I tried your using q-tips for mixing oils recently and it's awesome, thanks. That being said I still use cheap-rear end brushes and at the end of each painting session my thought process always starts with "rather than cleaning up, what if I just threw out all my brushes?"

Painting minis with only Q-tips, sponges, my fingers and a funny stick I found on the sidewalk

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

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Radiation Cow posted:

I love this scheme, but can't imagine painting a full army with it.

This is essentially the kind of style that GW does for Tyranids tho

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

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Hedningen posted:

Is that bird freehanded? Because it looks pretty great if it is.

Is the corollary to this that if it was a pre printed decal it would be pretty bad?

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

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Cardboard Fox posted:

Using glazing to layer 3 different colors to form a nice transition when I watch it on youtube: "Oh, that looks so easy. He created the gradient effect in 5 minutes"

Using glazing to layer 3 different colors to form a nice transition when I do it:


Be lazy like me and do wet blending. Thin the paint and mix the colours on the model!

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Little nuggies like Termagants are the perfect models to try something new. They're small enough that major errors are overlooked and they're numerous enough that if there's some variation going on that just makes them look more naturalistic.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Cardboard Fox posted:

Wish GW would discover the technology that would allow them to prime the little plastic pieces automatically. We could pick between white, black, and grey primed miniatures.

And yes of course they will be $20 more.

Not sure how pre primed pieces would really work with gates you have to trim and uh, plastic gluing pieces together.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Cardboard Fox posted:

This will sound insane to some, but I just want a can of pre primed and trimmed pieces I can sub-assemble paint.

This is like the opposite extreme to people super mad about monopose

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
The old Space Marine armours are iconic, classic, etc. but the Primaris marks are more cohesive and thus narratively appropriate of a new generation moving past the stagnation of 10,000 years. That being said there's a few stinkers in there (lol Desolation Squad) but as a whole the new sculpts are more dynamic and a pleasure to paint. They brought Terminators forward too so it's not like they're abandoning all the old stuff.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Starting on my World Eaters, they're actually really fun sculpts to paint, probably cause they have less trim than a regular Chaos Space Marine

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Ominous Jazz posted:

I'm thinking of ordering this vallejo set even though they're small bottles.
https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/product/hobby/sets/cases/basic-starter-case-80260/
and working my way through them. This seems to be a good "bang for buck" at 70 bucks. they are the same as the regular vallejo paints, right?

You'll use like 12 of them and have 38 bottles of dried paint 4 years from now, probably

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Ominous Jazz posted:

Yeah that seems right

Also Vallejo released Valleo Game Color 2.0 last year so who knows when the paints in that set were actually made

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Ive got a bunch of Vallejo Model Colours that went to poo poo after a couple years. As in they just squirt out coloured water and I assume all the pigment settled out.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

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Just use oils for panel lining so you can clean it up!

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

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What is there to do with it? You don't need to touch it.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

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The loincloth colour is fine but if you want nitpicks I think it looks shiny rather than clothy. Easiest way to do it would probably be to essentially do some crosshatching to give it a fake weave texture.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

AndyElusive posted:

Ya for sure. I'll just play some mental gymnastics and tell myself it's glossy because it's a leather-type material. When really I kind of just forgot to consider the material difference.

I've also done the Darren Latham method of giving cloth texture on other models before but that was with more linen-type loincloths.



It's fine, you did a great job anyway and everyone forgets something all the time

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Cardboard Fox posted:

I only paint because I think its fun and have never played any of the Warhammer tabletop games. Is it a rule that armies have to be painted? If not, is there community pressure to have your army look good, or is there some "meta" that allows you to play better if you have a better painted army (that would be hilarious)?

Officially each player gets 10 VP for having a painted army. You obviously don't need to take this into account if you're playing games for fun or whatever but ostensibly the rule exists for big gatherings like tournaments to have every table look cool rather than a pile of grey going at each other.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Lostconfused posted:

Speed paint guide "You can save time by just considering the light, shadow, and texture of the model before you apply every brush stroke and that will help you out in the long run."

Thanks, feel like I need to make a check list of things to do before I can start painting after watching one of these.

Edit: Yes I know you can just use zenithal highlights as training wheels for this as you build up your skills, but still.

That checklist is the entire concept and activity of Painting. Of course if you take the time to plan things out you can execute faster than if you're trying to constantly what to do at each step!

That's like being undecided what ingredients you're going to throw in the pan until the moment you start cooking.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Leaving compressed air in the tank can cause condensation which causes rust and eventual failure.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Paragon8 posted:

I have seen it said that AO are made by Rosemary and Co so it might be worth looking into them as well.

Do you have an option to buy just one?

I am a little skeptical of how heavy their marketing push is. Like lmao at goonhammer's disclaimer on their bundle.

I believe they are rebranded Rosemary and Co drybrushes so you can probably just get One to try if shipping doesn't own you. I got the Year of the Tiger set and I can confirm that the brushes are very good for drybrushing especially if you watch their videos for their drybrushing technique. I don't use the whole set though but I assume if you wanna drybrush blend a tank the biggest ones would be useful.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Muir posted:

If they are just rebranded Rosemary and Co, that's one hell of a mark-up. Why would I get any of the Artis Opus brushes rather than just buying the Rosemary equivalents?

It's about 30% markup which is a bit but not excessive and I just checked and they have additional sizes that Rosemary and Co don't have. But mostly Artis Opus is going hard on collabs and so forth because they figured out a method of drybrushing that gives you airbrush-like results.

Even if Rosemary and Co offer the the original product they weren't being bought for miniature painting. For Rosemary and Co its win/win because the AO guys are basically generating a new market for drybrushes and whether or not they sell direct or via wholesale to AP they still are moving product. AO are not charging you for the tutorials so they gotta upcharge you on the brushes. That's also why they throw in stuff like the drybrush hydrating sponge and brush soap which you can definitely get on your own and sell the texture pad which you can make with cork and sortie sprue.

It's a pay for convenience thing.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Sorry I saw the GH drybrush pack and didn't realize they had a mixed brush pack as well.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Bucnasti posted:

What's so special about their drybrushes? LIke are they better than cheap makeup brushes in some way?
I bought one of the GH AO sets, mostly cuz I wanted the cool box and I'm bad with money.

They're very dense and not as soft as a makeup brush which lets them hold a lot of paint and AO's method isn't really "drybrushing" per se because you want to keep some moisture in the bristles and is really more like Stippling En Masse than dry brushing.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Speedpainted this Terminator to get an idea for my colour scheme and also cause I need to just get some painted bodies on the table so I can play some 10th. I think I used too much turquoise for the body to be considered black and I ended up layering too much white so I lost depth on the shoulders. Maybe I'll try drybrushing the white layers so I don't obliterate it with layers.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Paragon8 posted:

I think its a little silly to pull a "this product is so good that we can't be biased even with a partnership deal"

I don't begrudge goonhammer for doing a partnership with Artist Opus but feels slightly off publishing reviews alongside it even with the above disclaimer. Feels like there's probably a slightly more elegant way to do it! Maybe just ditch the reviews and just talk up your collab and why and how you use those brushes?

are you telling me that a website run by millenial ex-goons is hyper aware of authenticity and selling out so they address it directly to avoid any accusations of such

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Levi Termies done! Space Marines truly are the easiest things to paint.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

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Votann have been out for like a year and their aesthetic has already been sealed as "dwarf head or bubble helmet" so anything else just looks weird imo

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Nessus posted:

Yeah, I figure they're not going to have non-GW products, outside of possible niche utility items. Maybe I'll scope out both and check the vibe

Gunpla snips are good. The only other stuff you need is a hobby knife to clean up snipped gates (you can just the back to scrape mould lines), Tamiya Extra Thin plastic glue, any super glue of your choice (for 3d printed bits, resin models or gluing minis to terrain if you are doing more elaborate basing) and optionally a hobby pin vise to drill gun barrels and holes for pins and magnets.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Nessus posted:

I mean how do you open and close it to apply glue to the minis, lol. I was old enough to just get a five buck packet of superglue and use that, but I was working long enough ago that most of the minis were metal.

The thin metal tube is the applicator and you just dab it it against two pieces that are pressed together and it will melt the plastic together.

Tamiya Extra Thin Cement has a brush applicator that can also be used to dab into gaps with capillary action and that's why it's more highly recommended.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Put two big blobs on your wet palette.

Take a blob of your dark red and put it on an empty spot. Take an amount about half that blob from your lighter red to make a 2:1 mix.

Repeat for 1:1 and 1:2 dark:light mixes. You now have 5 shades starting at dark red and ending at light red. See if that is good enough for your purposes.

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Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
But have you considered that China... bad?

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