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Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Jonny Nox posted:

ok fine then



I just don't like taking photos is all

that steam tank is rad

also it is surprisingly easy to rig up a budget photo setup, as explained in this highly technical diagram:



the important thing is to make sure the desk lamp is not too close so it doesn't wash out the mini (you can tape some baking paper to it to soften the light if you're feeling fancy but this is the budget option), making sure your phone isn't too close (just crop the image later), and tap-focusing your phone camera on the brightest part of the mini.

this was taken with basically that setup:


I was probably still too close with the camera because the tank barrel is out of focus. you can actually see reflections of the desk lamp and the white paper in the spraycan lid.

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Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Slyphic posted:

Obnoxious hipster take, I make it a point not to photograph or judge my minis in any kind of controlled optimal lighting environment (unless it's a competition submission). I paint for play, so I deliberately want to see and share what they look like as they will when we're gaming.

given how photographs immediately show up all the mistakes that you don't really notice on the table, I understand that urge.

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


mllaneza posted:

I watched a Rogue Hobbies video of tips on painting neo-Epic scale 8mm miniatures. One of the tips was to take a photo of the mini when it's almost done and zoom in to see if there's anything that needs to be fixed. Basically, make the camera jinx work for you.

It's a good idea, and sometimes I've gone back and touched things up that the photo has revealed but overall epic stuff is just too small to worry about that kind of thing with. I've accepted that my infantry will always be a bit weird and blobby in closeup.

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Marx Headroom posted:

Just wanted to pop in and say I saw this guy at the art museum this weekend and thought of this thread



the face I make when my brush slips

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


OgreNoah posted:

My Nagash won crowd favorite at the LGS winter painting competition! Got 35$ in store credit too, which is nice!

:hellyeah:

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Professor Shark posted:

I’ve been painting an old metal Warboss for fun and I’m trying to use some paints in my collection that don’t get a lot of use. I decided to trying putting down a layer of Typhus Corrosion on some metal before painting them and it gives a very nice, subtle suggestion that this is lovely rusty metal that has been painted (not a self own!).

Typhus Corrosion is honestly one of my favourite paints.

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Kylaer posted:

What should I do to distinguish las cannons? The ones I've painted so far I've mostly used dark metal, and they look like they could be hard to distinguish from autocannons when placed on the tabletop. Bright-metal body and barrel with a dark-metal tip (or maybe a flat black tip)? How about for infantry-scale missile launchers, should they be metallic or a flat color?

Any input is appreciated.

Have you considered adding black accents to the yellow parts of the turrets, or small parts of the chassis, so they're immediately differentiated when seen from above?



Despite the barrels being very different, I made sure that the battlecannon had a majority-blue turret with a horizontal band on the front of the chassis, and the melta had a single vertical stripe running parallel to the tracks.

You could do something similar, but with black over the yellow. Wouldn't even take that much, either a single coat of black contrast, or a base of Grey Seer first before the contrast layer.

Gravitas Shortfall fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Feb 19, 2024

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Kylaer posted:

Painting a straight stripe like those is way beyond my skill level :v:
The trick is to follow existing panel lines :ssh:

Kylaer posted:

I could do something to distinguish the whole vehicle instead of the gun itself, I'll think on that. It's the sponson weapons more than the main guns that I'm stumped on though, the big ones tend to be distinctive enough by their shape.

I notice you've already filled in some of the little recessed squares in black, why not just make a rule that only lascannon sponsons have those filled in?

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


mllaneza posted:

And if you're still unsure, the existing panel lines make it easy to align the masking tape. For a first-time user, my advice is to be very, very sure you press the edge facing the paint down firmly and thoroughly. That advice made my second time using masking tape go much better than the first.

imo Epic is mostly too small for masking tape

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Cease to Hope posted:

that is not a bad set but i was going to see if i could find ones that use the newer, higher-quality paints (from VGC and others)

:confused:

Vallejo model/game colour are good quality. The main weakness of a few of their starter sets is the inexplicable decision to include an orange but not a red.

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Beffer posted:

After a few months, chuck it in the bin and get a normal bottle of plastic glue (like Tamiya) that comes with a brush applicator. Or don't chuck it in the bin, transfer the glue into a normal bottle with a brush applicator.

needle applicators are rad, I will not hear anything against my sweet angel Revell Contacta Professional :colbert:

you do need to run a flame over the applicator every now and then though, it's true

Gravitas Shortfall fucked around with this message at 08:54 on Feb 22, 2024

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Before I just mix shades, what are some good paints for a dark->light red transition? I've got Citadel Wazdakka Red, and Vallejo Orange Red, but I feel like I need a standard red between those two, and maybe a darker red below Wazdakka.

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Eej posted:

Put two big blobs on your wet palette.

Take a blob of your dark red and put it on an empty spot. Take an amount about half that blob from your lighter red to make a 2:1 mix.

Repeat for 1:1 and 1:2 dark:light mixes. You now have 5 shades starting at dark red and ending at light red. See if that is good enough for your purposes.


Gravitas Shortfall posted:

Before I just mix shades

cmon man actually read my post

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Paragon8 posted:

Mephiston red is really solid mid red if you want to stay in citadel. I like evil sunz scarlet a lot too for a brighter red. Khorne red is really fun but feels a bit too purple for a pure red but would be good for shadows.

Bohemian Nights posted:

Mephiston red is so good, one of the few paints that always behaves exactly how I want, and with great coverage

Might go for Mephiston Red, I can probably mix a darker red but I need a good solid mid red, cheers.

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Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Ominous Jazz posted:

I made a chainrasp horde guy (nine more to go) and banshee and I was so proud I used my fancy camera and lightbox

I love the colour palette you've used for these.

Gravitas Shortfall fucked around with this message at 17:39 on Feb 28, 2024

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