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GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

SiKboy posted:

If its a gamepiece rather than a figure (I'm thinking something like a pawn) maybe wash with white? You'd need to neaten up the black afterwards but it would look striking/high contrast. A white oil wash would be what I would try, but regular acrylic would probably work too, just more neatening up afterwards. Most of the metallic paints I've used wouldnt thin down to a wash consistancy while keeping any of the metallic effect, theres just a limit to how much the lil sparkly bits can be spread out before it doesnt look shiny any more.

ETA you can of course do this with a figure, but I'm just thinking that with a geometric game piece you dont need to even think about realism, just whats eye catching.



this is the game piece specifically

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GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I think that's just an "ad" for their contrast paints "use this before using your contrast paints!"

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I think the discussion has been super thin black primer and then dry brush white paint and do that instead of dry brushing any white primer, mine pools and looks like poo poo if I go straight white on plastic.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Yeast posted:

All miniatures go through the ugly phase on their painting journey.

Mine just usually stay on the ugly phase and barely get better

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007



Figured I'd do something different

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007



Night's Watch

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007



I think that's all the non-metallic colors I'll use on this, next it's the metals, then shading (how do you shade snow? I guess I'll avoid that) then cleanup, then highlights. I'll probably add stripes to the TNT on the highlights part

edit: I feel like I'm loving up somewhere even at this stage of the process but I'm not sure how to articulate it. Most of my complaints so far on this model is that some areas are hard to get to, but for the actual painting I feel like I'm missing something. Maybe it's the brush control in overspraying, and then needing to go back and retouch up the areas, or maybe i'm not undercoating properly (went with grey instead of black this time), or something, I'm not sure. There's still work to do on the model but idk

GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 11:24 on Dec 28, 2023

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

EdsTeioh posted:

Any of you guys used Dirty Down Rust? I build a lot of Necromunda terrain and am always looking for new weathering techniques and grabbed some of this stuff and I gotta say that it's probably the biggest waste of money I've encountered in 30 years of hobbying. Yeah, I shook the hell out of it and all that, but I may as well have just smeared iodine on stuff and saved $25.

I got gifted their 3 set in xmas 2022 and haven't had the chance to even crack the bottles open...terrain might be a good idea

one of the other things too, is I hear they're a pain with sealing them with varnish and it ruins the effect, brush on is likely to brush the effect off and you pretty much have to like use an airbrush and do like a "spray...wait....see how it's going, continue spraying? spray" a little bit at a time to not re-activate it

GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 19:33 on Dec 28, 2023

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

EdsTeioh posted:

Yeah, I did all that and still got the results I linked above. I'm gonna stick with my other methods but I'm really mad I wasted $30 on this poo poo.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=luKDM6vDRmI

weird, it looks good here

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007




Finally finished this...criticisms welcome...

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Professor Shark posted:

Great work on that cloak- I’m currently tackling dark red leatherish fabric for my Tau.

Suggestion would be to have some wood colouring on the pistol grips and do a few more rounds of back-and-forth with the dynamite stripes to even them out, since the viewer’s eye will be drawn to it.

Oh that's a good point, I had thought of that. The pistol stood out to me too, but that's how it is on the box art...

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Z the IVth posted:

As always never believe everything you see on the Internet. Much like supermodels, miniatures can also be touched up in post.

Sometimes if I take to bring in the DSLR and tear down my painting area so I can make room for the lightbox, because I can't do both, I run it through Lightroom, but otherwise, meh. I'll take a photo with my camera cause that's all I can manage

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

One thing to keep in mind with people like Elemustria or w/e is he probably spent 60-100 hours on that one model...

I spend 8-10 and I feel like I have accomplished everything I could possibly accomplish without starting over and acquiring more talents

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007



Finished the Grotmas Gitz

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

What's the best way to paint white without having to do multiple layers?

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Cease to Hope posted:

there isn't

getting a nice artist's titanium white will help, but pretty much it's just a matter of layering

That's poopy mcpooperson.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007



Here's where I'm at so far, I don't have an airbrush and all the white rattlecans I've tried (which it's like 21F outside so probably not good to spray anyways) do that "spotty droplets" thing so I'm just doing brush work.

Looks like you don't wash this armor but "weather" it so I'll have to investigate what's a good way to easily weather tau armor that isn't tons of fiddling with the brush, I surmise a sponge probably.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Beffer posted:

It was said earlier, but i think you will find it much better base coating in off white or better still pale grey. Your eye won’t be able to tell the difference, it will cover much better than pure white, and you can get depth by then highlighting in white.

Yeah, that's what I'll do for the tau after this one

unfortunately the tau I assembled and primed a year ago were in black, so I'll have to figure out something

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Lostconfused posted:

When priming do you go for 100% coverage or "it looks mostly covered"?

Mainly asking because priming grey rustoleum on grey plastic and I can't loving tell without putting the miniature right in front of my face under bright light.

I have the same problem and I just "spray and pray". All you need is something just enough for the paint to grab onto

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007



I think it came out ok, i don't really have experience with freehand either

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

what the gently caress lol

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Tau Darkstrider

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I wanna grab some rapahel 8404 brushes in the USA, is there a suggested place that ships them to us?

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Bohemian Nights posted:

My girlfriend finished the red gobbo she got for Christmas and I'm super proud of her. This is her third model ever, and the most complicated by far- I think she did great!



Probably took around 15 hours, so she definitely took her time. Came home from work one day and found her watching a Duncan Rhodes tutorial on youtube, with a warhammer lore video open in another tab- I almost shed a tear~

Match for scale, so the normal people at her work can understand just how tiny it is.

I'm trying to not be miffed about how your girlfriend's third mini looks comperable to my 320th+ give or take model.

Anyways, she did a really good job and she should be proud

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Yeast posted:

Welcome to the Pro Acryl cult.

Apparently (according to Jason) they're releasing a NMM Gold 6 colour pack at Adepticon this year.

Please no, my custom shelves are literally full lol

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I haven't tried it yet, but i bought some Raphael 8404s from the UK -> USA and they shipped just fine, if anyone cares to buy some, I bought some from Jacksons

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Now that i actually look at it. Raphael 8404 are bigger than I expected. I got #1 #2 because I tend not to bother with very large brushes and very small brushes are so tiny that the paint dries off quickly, but even #1 is a bit larger than I like to use.

A Raphael #1 seems comparable in size to a Rosemary #3

I'll try these but I think maybe a Raphael #0 or something might be the size I want. The #2/0 seems to have bad reviews but that size looks like a rosemary #1...hrm

GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 11:20 on Jan 21, 2024

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

iospace posted:

Eyes are hard.




But at a distance they're not bad at all. Also I didn't use any washes for this because I am a masochist.

Eyes look better with eyeliner on real people and miniatures. fyi.

also i love that you have a votann head on that space marine

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

there's so much about that that's frustrating but the gradient on the window and the simple highlight is probably the worst (best) part

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007



Done with these for now time to do something else

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I actually just came to post about the WoW Stick because I just bought one and tried it out on a random barrel and it took 10 seconds. I can't believe it. worth every penny

I primarily got it because I am also getting into Malifaux models and wanted something to drill into them



I picked up the McMourning core box and one of my friends helped direct me to sculpt in green stuff for the first time and I had so much fun that I bought a bunch of basing tools and greenstuff lol

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007



workin on the skin of this flesh construct

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GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007



First Malifaux model completed

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