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PoptartsNinja posted:The one tip I do have though: If you try to get a drop of paint and nothing comes out (or you get very little), don't try to force it. Use a toothpick or pin to clear the nozzle. I had that happen enough as a child doing arts and crafts that I do that exact thing when something is clogged. I was so mad I got glue over my project that I never forget to check if there is tension when gluing now
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Jul 16, 2021 18:15
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Is it just me or does anyone else like collecting paint? I look at some tutorials online and they want something specific, I go, oh, I don't have that, I should buy some more. I most likely don't need it, but, if I want to follow along with the tutorial I watched.... I suppose I can just mix but it feels better to simply have the color
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Jul 17, 2021 02:13
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some WIP 
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Jul 18, 2021 07:31
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SkyeAuroline posted:How did you get the green crackle so clean? Green first, then crackle paint over it with the pigment already mixed? Waited for the paint to dry before putting the Mordant Earth on, then just kind of loaded it on there.
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Jul 18, 2021 17:06
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Dienes posted:No varnish on the green paint beforehand? no, I didn't think of that honestly.... maybe next go around
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Jul 18, 2021 18:30
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 Finished my first unit (technically this is my "third" unit, but the other two I didn't base yet), how did I do?
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Jul 19, 2021 04:41
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tangy yet delightful posted:Very awesome. Nice edge highlights on the green crystals on the base. The green weapon effect is also cool. Next step to elevate your game would be some sort of shading (a wash for example) and then some highlights on things like blade edges and other sharp or upward facing surfaces that would catch light and/or are something you want to draw the eye to. Oh I didn't even think of that on the edge, I was just thinking some Blood for the Blood god paint would be good on the staff as if he had smacked someone with it technically, since I haven't varnished it I can add some more details....
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Jul 19, 2021 05:04
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 edge highlights are hard
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Jul 22, 2021 05:12
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AndyElusive posted:Also don't be afraid to go back over the jagged edge highlights with your original base coat to clean them up. I think that's a pro tip. That was the plan actually. I'll look into thinner, I might have some, I've just been thinning it on the wet palette.
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Jul 22, 2021 19:57
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PoptartsNinja posted:It can also help if you use the edge of a long-bristled brush rather than the tip. The tip can waver and make little random splotches, but the edge will give you a consistent line because it doesn't move as much. I found even with my 10/0 there just wasn't good angles/areas on this model for me to do that
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Jul 23, 2021 03:55
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The Demilich posted:Anyone have any resources on how to make reusable stencils for chapter insignias? I've been googling but found nothing. Not to be snarky but to be snarky, why not print out the icon, then exacto out the shape and make your own stencil?
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Jul 23, 2021 13:37
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Spanish Manlove posted:to be snarky: try it and see how much bleeding you get That's fair. I didn't consider that.
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Jul 23, 2021 17:54
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I've seen it in not as drastic examples https://taleofpainters.com/2021/03/tutorial-how-to-paint-an-inverted-super-hot-plasma-glow/
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Jul 29, 2021 01:34
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SkyeAuroline posted:"Hey, at least I can piece together from translate and context, that's a good look, how do I-" I'm in a similar situation, I just need to buy a spray booth, but, the spray booth is gonna take up like 50% of my desk at least, which is pretty frustrating. I'm constantly reworking my art space because of it.
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Jul 29, 2021 03:26
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Spanish Manlove posted:Nah gently caress that. You don't need an airbrush. Or hell, you don't even need to spray prime. Naw, I didn't mean to paint well, I meant to save time XD I mostly want it for better priming and doing some quicker base coating, maybe do some of that zenethal highlights and fake-OSL. My problem is I'm in a studio, so every inch is accounted for.
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Jul 29, 2021 03:49
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Is that from the Dark Souls game? Was thinking of getting that but it seemed like it'd be a pain to buy it + expansions
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Aug 2, 2021 03:45
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+1 for you dude
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Aug 4, 2021 05:04
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jesus WEP posted:seeing someone use oil paints to do edge highlighting and grabbing a little sponge to feather the highlight out was a real That sounds really hard on a space marine size, maybe on a tank...
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Aug 4, 2021 21:52
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moment for me
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I was following along with the painting suggestion for space wolves I primed them all corax white, cause, that's what I have it tells me base them in the fang, so, I do it then says to use nuln oil, and then layer with fenrisian grey Except, the models all over are fenrisian grey with no The Fang to be seen. So shouldn't the instructions/suggestions be to prime in The Fang and then Fenrisian Grey and then Nuln Oil? Now it looks like crap and at this point even thin layers are too many layers of paint, arghhh
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Aug 9, 2021 21:52
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 This is what I mean, it looks "wrong" to me like I hosed up, so I'm putting it aside for now while I work on other ones from the box.
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Aug 10, 2021 17:24
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Revelation 2-13 posted:I think it looks really good. One suggestion is to thin the paint a bit more (and use another layer if necessary), since it looks like there are a couple of brush strokes visible. That is usually an indicator a slightly too thick paint. As far as the nuln oil goes, the general idea is to paint on top of it in the highest place, like leg/chest/arms etc, but leave it dark in the recesses, like between the fingers, under the knee caps, and so on. I was having a hard time thinning the Fenrisian Grey adequately, honestly. It was so chunky even after shaking the poo poo out of it with a metal ball in the pot. I really have to move away from citadel pots I think.
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Aug 10, 2021 20:16
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S.W.O.R.D. Agent posted:Here is the space wolves from GW. I saved a bunch of these when deciding on what to go with: https://youtu.be/3FAfm01AIVE Unfortunately I already went throughout the start collecting box and based them all so far with abaddon black and the fang, then went over as light as I could as thin as I could with fenrisian grey  but yes that looks super easy
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Aug 11, 2021 02:12
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I try to make my minis at best as I can so I can take pretty photos of it and learn what works and what doesn't I haven't touched some of my Etsy minis I've bought and primed because I'm afraid I'll not have enough experience to do them good enough justice. I don't particularly care if I gently caress up my Warhammer or Sigmar Minis because there's so much of them. I also figure if I put my best foot forward on every unit I can, I'll be slower, but it'll help me learn better as well. That's what I tell myself anyways. I'm constantly looking at other models and trying to figure out how they did what they did.
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Aug 13, 2021 05:30
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Big Willy Style posted:paint the reflections obviously This is so far past my skill level it must be magic
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Aug 21, 2021 03:14
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  Other than the basing, and a bit more work on the fur, I think these are done. What'cha think?
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Aug 30, 2021 05:44
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My other hobbies (of which most are probably middling interests...) are photography, guitar/ukulele/harmonica/drums/kalimba/jaw harp, drawing, video games, board game collecting, reading, blogging, writing. I also want to try and learn the bass, singing, harp, woodworking, learn Japanese, do 3D modeling again, and make music, produce, make a game, write a book, etc I also help take care of ducks. Anyone have more time in the day to do most of these while also working 50 hours a week and also wanting to exercise? I am way over budgeted on time. I thought I did a decent job on this and wanted to show it off  
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Sep 1, 2021 22:46
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Squiggle posted:Absolutely beautiful, I'm jealous. I'm looking at the power sword on my first Sororitas and dreading trying something similar. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=245Xvr_LmdM I tried following along with this, but I don't have vallejo inks, I realized after the fact, then put down temple guard blue as the basecoat, instead of thousand suns blue, and then realized I didn't have thousand suns blue and tried to approxmiate took me like, easily half an hour or more on just the sword, the whole time I'm like "oh god this looks terrible, gently caress I'm trying to wet blend but it keeps drying on the model so fast, ugh it's not wet enough, don't put it on too thick, no that color mixture isn't the right combination, etc"
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Sep 2, 2021 02:44
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w00tmonger posted:The cost of resin printed models will forever make you question buying traditional models ever again. The files for a big theme of models is like $15 tops on Patreon, then you can print the whole batch for like $5 If we're talking about armies though, no one seems to do anything in print for major factions tho
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Sep 20, 2021 06:15
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AndyElusive posted:Hey you guys, speaking of paints... Sent mine in, would be cool
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Oct 3, 2021 02:21
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chin up everything sucks posted:
Is that you Hugh?
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Nov 17, 2021 03:34
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chin up everything sucks posted:Either that's a quote I don't get, or you have mistaken me for someone else. I was mostly saying whatever that is looks kinda Borg-y
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Nov 17, 2021 04:20
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Finally, I can be done with these               It's not perfect, and there's parts I'm not satisfied with, at least they're 99% done and I can move on to other minis instead of constantly staring at these and not being able to work on anything else. (I know some of them are probably wearing illegal equipment combinations but I don't particularly give a poo poo, since this 8th Ed get started box was a gift, and I didn't buy it, and probably wont ever use them in a tournament or w/e) These are the...4-17th minis I've ever painted, not in any particular order per se. The blue was really loving hard for me, and some of the angles for the edge highlights was also very hard. I think I want to work on Fallout: Wasteland Warfare next...I got the core set for my birthday months ago and never got farther than priming them, and it'd be a welcome change of pace. GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 09:47 on Nov 21, 2021 |
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Nov 21, 2021 09:44
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 Still need to finish the base, but I think this guy is done otherwise citadel paints unless specified: caliban green, kantor blue, catachan flesh, bloodreaver flesh, Vallejo flat green, agrax earthshade, nuln oil, karak stone, dawnstone, averland sunset, leadbelcher, temple guard blue, knight-questor flesh, stormhost silver, abaddon black, Vallejo Foul green I gotta think of a way to get the same effect but maybe do like, 10 paints instead of 15....I could probably cut dawnstone out I guess, and maybe even leadbelcher GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 04:01 on Nov 28, 2021 |
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Nov 28, 2021 01:33
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Wrr posted:So I tried making some mini carrying cases using magnetized bases and magnetic sheets a la the Duncan Rhodes Video on making a case, and the magnetic sheets I got are hot garage. They can stick to a fridge but thats it. I can't even feel them with my magnetic implants. I just superglued some galvanized steel to the bottom of a clear plastic shoebox, and glued the magnets to the bottom of the base (easier when the bases are raised like with wargames. I haven't figured out what I'm going to do for my D&D minis that have a flat base....   Now that I think of it, I could just buy some basic larger bases from aliexpress, which do have a hollow bottom, and use those for the D&D minis instead. I tend to like larger minis anyways, so that might work. Oh, 1 neo magnet is fine for these sized minis, but for larger ones (like Space Wolves' Thunderwolves, you'll need two neo magnets, because of their weight.)
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Nov 28, 2021 05:00
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I'm looking into learning more about Weathering and so on, anything you guys suggest?
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Dec 4, 2021 03:47
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punishedkissinger posted:how dk i stop MDF bases from being warped by pva glue? Would priming them beforehand help? I suppose that would invalidate the pva glue, depending on what you were doing
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Dec 6, 2021 02:33
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DevCore posted:Does anyone here know of someone I could commission to paint a Blood Bowl team? The official finished pieces are done by top tier artists that absolutely know their salt, that even popular youtubers who can emulate their work very well have difficulty matching exactly. Furthermore, when I've seen them do so, it takes them several hours for one piece. Let me put it into math for you, each of those models probably takes 3-5 hours. Minimum Federal Wage in USA is 7.25. That's at least 48-80 hours of work for 16 miniatures, which I assume is the size of a bloodbowl team based on google. That's $350-580 minimum. Even if we assume someone might charge something more reasonable to a standard of living, say, around $15 an hour, and we assume it only took them 3 hours per model to match the box art, that's STILL $780. Honestly to get the box art painted for you, a more realistic number worth the artist's time is probably at $20-25 an hour, which is about $1600-2000. edit: I also want to add, 3-5 hours is a guess. I know some pro artists on youtube have spent upwards of 15-20 hours on a single model, especially when you have to account time spent for planning and whatever else happens. GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Dec 7, 2021 |
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Dec 7, 2021 01:08
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It's really not that hard, honestly. The "hardest" part is finding the time and not creating a wall of grey for yourself of interesting models you want to paint.
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Dec 7, 2021 03:52
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Tiocfaidh Yar Ma posted:Counterpoint: it's actually really hard, the models are all very VERY small, but you are big in comparison, so it's easy to make mistakes Your mistakes are just weathering! The model was always meant to come out like that. Model comes out poorly? Clearly you just bought the wrong model and must buy more and try again, with a model that has better juju 
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Dec 7, 2021 04:22
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I love running a wash all over the model. Though that's probably because it means all the base coating has been completed which feels like 90% of the time investment.
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Dec 9, 2021 07:43
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