Moola posted:

Moola posted:

Fine don't play!

It's vinyl flooring roll left over from when we had the kitchen redone recently!

Moola posted:

No i'm doing another layer of sand/gravel and the PVA is drying, the other side is the other two pictures I posted

Partial Octopus posted:

Should I be thinning vallejo surface primer or can I just go straight into an airbrush with it?

Floppychop posted:

So I picked one each of Vallejo's Gloss, Satin, and Matte varnishes with the intent of using them with my airbrush.

Any tips so I don't gently caress up the paint jobs?

Edit: My end goal with the varnish is simply protecting the paint.

Floppychop posted:

Using thin coats, how long do I need to give for drying time between coats?

Acrylic paint dries in less than a minute for me, but I don't know how long the varnish will take.

Chill la Chill posted:

I...I won a custom battle foam bag for my x wing minis at a regional tournament. I use it. I'm a monster.


(I don't know about any owner drama but I'm sure there's good stories and I'll look him up.)

Zark the Damned posted:

Ran into with an issue with some spray today, army painter white. Not sure what caused it but the first half of the minis were fine, but when I flipped em over to do their backs the spray went weird and has left a very rough texture, almost like grit or something?

I don't think it's an issue with humidity or whatever as I also sprayed some other stuff black and had no issues with that.

Is my best bet to strip em and try again? Or will it smooth itself out if I just paint it as-is?

Kommando posted:

I'm about to paint some Reaper Bones and since theyve been used in unpainted fashion theyre covered in finger oil.
Can i use Acetone on Bones Vinyl or should i use just ethanol?

spectralent posted:

Weird question, but I'm considering getting a uniform-colour spray to do lots of soviets quickish. I've never done that before, though; will I need to spray-prime everything first, or is a base uniform spray going to do fine enough for that job on it's own?

Chill la Chill posted:

For those of you guys who airbrush at home, what's your setup look like? I'm hoping a basic box and newspapers is fine for purely airbrushing water based paints and that I don't need an extractor. I did buy a respirator with OG/AV P100 which might be overkill but whatever it's cheap. Ideally I want something small I can place on my small table in my apartment.

Avenging Dentist posted:

Hm, now I'm a little worried because I'm about to prime my guys with Army Painter (white). I have some sprues and crap minis to test on though, so I won't actually gently caress up anything important, but it'd be nice to have a primer that isn't super-fiddly.

Serotonin posted:

Goddam this is harder than I expected mainly because of my inability to move my right wrist so all those little twists of the mini to get easy access to hidden parts is a nightmare.

Anyway have a WIP if my first 45 mins of frustration

Z the IVth posted:

The Forgeworld Modelling Masterclass books are a good start. Having a look at the various military modelling magazines or even googling "superdetailing AFV model" will get you loads of hits and even scanned articles. You've gotta be flexible with techniques, lots of stuff can be ported across different crafts and hobbies - if you stick to just pure "miniatures" for your inspiration you'll run into difficulties. I've read tutorials on carpentry, jewellery-making, prop-making, doll-making, woodworking and all sorts of other weird stuff. Another good book for modelling is ABAKAN 2288 by Kallamity

For anime/Gundam stuff, most of the websites are in Japanese, and I can't read moonspeak. If you're lucky they post WIP shots and you can figure out what they're doing from there. If there is something they do really well in addition to tentacles, it's making excellent pictorial instructions. Some places I've found useful before:

Sci-Fi Modelling
Maschinen Krieger (Jap): http://www.aurora.dti.ne.jp/~kuruppo/dark/newrugm.html
More Maschinen Krieger (Eng): http://makadi3000.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/SAFS%20SNAKE%20EYE
Gundam (Jap): http://peck2003.web.fc2.com/
Appleseed/GITS: http://homepage1.nifty.com/musuke/kou_menu.html
Scratchbuild Sci-fi planes (Silpheed, Supersylph): http://sparrow.o.oo7.jp/

Miniatures
Great balsa modelling tutorial: http://www.virtualscratchbuilder.com/
The other Germy: http://www.germy.co.uk/
Agis: http://agisn.de/html/miniatures.html
Ultrawerke: http://ultrawerke.blogspot.co.uk/2007/04/now-we-are-going-to-complete-rust.html
Matakisihi's Tea House (this guy gets poo poo done, unlike the rest of us, 4 gaming systems a year, jesus!): http://www.matakishi.com/index.htm


Don't use greenstuff. It won't work as the cured greenstuff shreds rather than sand properly. Use Magic Sculpt - I think in the US Apoxie Sculpt might be a similar type of thing? You need something which cures hard and brittle. Greenstuff still has that small amount of elasticity after curing which makes it impossible to sand. These days even when I need to use greenstuff for sculpting I cut it with Magic Sculpt so I can sand the final product.


Behold, the ADTRW tentacle monster on my desk, uncensored.





what does he say? He's the guy who always brings up robodongs isn't he.

Darren MacLennan posted:

Look at this garbage.




I broke a lengthy hiatus from miniature painting with that miniature, and now I regret everything.

That being said, it's a really hard miniature to paint. The skin is absent any texture, it's covered in bling, and the hair...

How do you paint hair without doing the basecoat/wash/drybrush tango? Because as you can see, it doesn't look good.

dr_ether posted:

So not to offend people, link only to my finished Kingdom Death Wet Nurse https://goo.gl/photos/EfRKykbPjkvbopox8

I was happy with the result as it was also my first mini that I have ever airbrushed (did all the priming and pre-shading using it).

I have the boxed game on the way, and thus lots of minis, with a lot less boobs on display.

Hauki posted:

I dug up a trove of various minis from when I was a kid, mostly fantasy GW with a smattering of war zone, reaper, various singles for "specialty games", etc. Most are still unpainted, but for those that were, what's the best way to strip a) metal figures and b) hard plastic, or can I just use the same solution for both?

Also found all of my old paints, and while a few had hardened, most are still liquid after 15-20 years. Someone had given me multiple sets of testors gloss enamel though that I have no loving clue what I'll do with. I assume one of my friends got ahold of them some point, because there are good chunks of Brettonian archers and black orks (neither of which I played) that have been base-coated and based reasonably well, but like, 75% of the base colors used are the usual acrylic and 25% are high gloss enamel. Maybe I'll have some incoming scrunt-alikes for the best of the worst thread.

Edit: this is mostly unrelated, but I remember liking the war zone tabletop game a lot as a kid. Did anyone else play it or remember it? How lovely was the ruleset? I've got a few little piles of Brotherhood, Bauhaus and some of the (relatively) newer tribes of earth or whatever. It's been discontinued obviously, but I found a place that bought the molds or something and still has the rules plus a ton of the original figures for sale, they're not the best sculpts but they're reasonably cheap I think. I'm sorta tempted just out of nostalgia.

spectralent posted:

I have a feeling this is a bad idea, but: Can you use air compressors for tools and stuff to power airbrushes? i.e. is there a way to limit pressure so you're only using the 10-15 psi or whatever your brush needs rather than whatever an air powered saw or something needs?

SRM posted:

GW's Youtube page is taking suggestions for tutorial videos for December:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eXfH4aU7P0w
I think it's actually pretty neat, their painting videos are solid.

grassy gnoll posted:

Here's a dumb question I should have asked earlier. I'm assembling a bunch of lead minis - actual factual lead, not white metal - and I'm having to trim and file them to get them to fit together. Should I be wearing a mask when I scrape at this stuff, or is it sufficiently heavy that even lead dust won't float up?

Related question, what's the best way to get all this lead off my files?

Hauki posted:

how does this twitch channel have 65000 viewers at 1am on a weekday

edit: its currently the most viewed channel on twitch by like twofold

Lord Twisted posted:

So I took a day off work, ostensibly because the gas man was coming, really because my airbrush was coming. Just spent the day loving about with it, learning how to disassemble and clear clogs etc.

I just painted a crashed aquila lander to acceptable tabletop quality, with washes, in about... 30 minutes.

where has this thing been my whole life.

TheCosmicMuffet posted:

Also Bulba's comment makes me want to get one and try body-painting my wife with it. Spicey!

SRM posted:

I think I liked Craptank more, but Hi-Mock has some good results there.

Also GW started putting out their advent calendar of painting tutorials with how to paint white power armor:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uFsFy0n8H-4
It's not bad, I personally don't know if doing that sort of pin wash thing takes longer than just washing the whole model and bringing it back up to light grey, but it's a tutorial that gets good results.

SRM posted:

I use the exact same colors aside from a blue wash sometimes

SteelMentor posted:

Does anyone know a good method of painting ginger hair? I'm working on my Guild Ball Brewers and they're all varying shades of redhead.

An Angry Bug posted:

So dust keeps getting into the paint on my models. More than usual. What's a good way to prevent this (besides dusting the precariously balanced stuff in my room)? Would one of those ion air filtration things help?

An Angry Bug posted:

Nah, dust falls into the paint as I'm painting them. Strands of it grab onto brushes and either make the paint apply oddly or force me to repeatedly pull them off so I get paint on my fingers and have to go wash my hands. Just a continual rain of dust.

Flavor Truck posted:

Do you have to thin it at all? Second coat? How well does it cover larger, smooth surfaces?

Cat Face Joe posted:

It is incredible.

Pash posted:

I think i had a bottle of this... and it went on great... but on metal models it found it had a tendency to come off in a layer when rubbed to hard... was i doing something wrong? I had no problems on plastic models although it did not seem to get as good coverage.

Pash posted:

My issue was that even after i had finished painting the models and varnished them, occasionally sections of paint would just peel off...

Wierre posted:

So this Goblin Blood Bowl team has been with me for 8-10 years, and finally had time, energy and willingness to sit down and start painting them.
First batch of 7 complete.

Really happy with how they turned out.

moths posted:

Does anybody have experience stripping Mage Knight or Hero Clix figures? What's safe and effective to use on that weird plastic?

selnaric posted:

So I started painting Infinity minis. There is a ton of detail in those models.

berzerkmonkey posted:

Until 1:40pm today (Dec 17th), Amazon's got a Gold Box deal for the Badger Minitaire set at $130. I'm not sure if this is a great deal or not, but that's at least $30 off of normal Amazon pricing.

Z the IVth posted:

No, reverse it.

Fill gap with talcum powder. Then drop thin superglue into it. The talcum powder helps give body to the glue.

Alternatively mix thick/medium superglue wth talcum powder into paste and use that like putty. Dries faster and sturdier than any of the other paste-like fillers. The Japanese actually make a commercial product which is similar - tiny glass beads mixed with superglue.

Frobbe posted:

More orks



and a question: painting on varnish, do i need to thin it like regular paint or just straight out the pot?