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Professor Shark posted:My lgs doesn’t have Aethermatic Blue in stock and one of the guides I’m going to use for my Plague Marine calls for it to be used over brass (1:1 Agrax and Aether, followed by Sotek at rivets, then Nihilah). If you happen to have the v1.0 speedpaints plasmatic bolt is a pretty decent match. Failing that I'd be tempted to just use the agrax on its own and see how that looks in the end, Nihilakh Oxide generally does a very good job of verdigris on its own tbh.
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Feb 9, 2024 16:21
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 03:41 |
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Professor Shark posted:I asked about the Speedpaints and they do not carry them, though a couple looked like they would work. I havent tried the Nihilakh over any particularly turquoise paints tbh, I usually just put it on over the copper/brass paint by itself. But you could try painting a bit of sprue with your brass paint, then try it with and without the paint you are considering as a replacement, see how you like it before you put it on an actual model.
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Feb 9, 2024 21:23
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Mederlock posted:I have the heavy body and soft body Yeah, lockdown was tough on all of us.
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Feb 9, 2024 22:24
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Aliensandwich posted:Is thinning down Citadel metallics still the move, though? Spanish Manlove posted:The move is to throw them away or use them to drybrush weather things. Then buy some Vallejo metal color for steels, and AK or Scale75 for golds. Or use yellow contrast paint on steel color VMC This is a kind of lovely answer to that question tbh. Citadel metallics arent best in show or anything, but they also arent unusable trash. They're pretty much the textbook definition of "basically fine". Their coverage is fine, their opacity is fine, they are a little thick out the pot for my taste but thats not unusual for citadel paints. They'll absolutely do the job of making a tiny plastic sword look like its made of metal. They arent a brand I'd particularly recommend if the question was "what gunmetal paint should I buy?", but I have to push back on the idea that they are so bad you should bin them and spend another 15 bucks on different metallic paints which are the current hotness. Also if you are doing gold by using contrast paint over a silver (a technique I heartily endorse, it looks great, though I've always used Agaross Dunes rather than any of the contrast yellows, I'm curious to see how the yellow looks now) I feel like the contrast paint is doing the bulk of the colour work and, as long as your base is silver, the difference between different brands of silver is probably imperceptible. To answer the actual question, yeah, you thin down the metallics a bit, just enough so you dont leave brushstrokes is what I go with. Dont put them on a wet palette and I'd recommend starting by just going into the paint with a very wet brush and work from there rather than adding a drop of water directly to the paint, you dont want to over thin them either. Brush could be wet with Matt Medium of some description if you have it to hand and are feeling fancy, but water will do the job fine.
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Feb 11, 2024 12:10
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Nessus posted:I should probably get a varnish or something as well as a pin drill for serious engineering, right? Or something to put on top once the kits are 'done' and Idon't want to gently caress around with the paints no more. Pin vise is super handy to have in general, I use it a lot when basing to make sure those fuckers arent going anywere, and occasionally when putting figures together (particularly metal models). Varnishing is a matter of taste. Some people dont bother at all, I'd say most people do, both for protection and to unify the finish (especially if you are using a mix of different brands paints, so have some satiny finishes, some matte). Personally I give everything a coat or two of gloss for protection, then matte because I prefer that finish, all with rattlecans. More or less any clear varnishes will do. Or you can buy pots and brush or airbrush on, but I'm cheap, lazy and have access to an outdoor area for spraying so aerosol can of cheap car lacquer is coat 1, then whatever matte varnish.
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Feb 27, 2024 18:37
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 03:41 |
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grassy gnoll posted:Does the Wow Stick actually use some weird proprietary chuck, or is that just some strangely-edited video when people are doing reviews of the thing? The bits have a wider base than the ones for a pin vice (roughly 2mm diameter at the end that the drill holds), but I'm pretty sure you could find generic replacements that fit easily enough. Theres no special propitiatory bitting or anything. Decorus posted:I would be terrified to gently caress up models with any kind of powered drill, especially while drilling out barrels. For pinning large models I guess it would be quite useful, but I've managed without the few times I've worked on something large and brittle. Its a very low speed drill (needs to be so it doesnt melt the plastic you are drilling), so if you make a small pilot hole with a knife tip (or any other random sharp thing) you are very unlikely to do any actual damage . if you dont make a pilot hole then it might skip over the surface rather than bite in, but again, surface level scratch really. You absolutely dont need one, it doesnt do anything a pin vice doesnt do. But if you are pinning a whole squad to their bases and/or drilling their barrels, its a nice little luxury. I'm often pinning Malifaux figures which can have tiny wee thin ankles and lots of delicate parts sticking out, so the quicker/more smoothly I can get them drilled the less likely I am to accidentally break a bit off. I put it on par with my vortex mixer, its a thing I dont need but I'm glad I have.
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Feb 27, 2024 23:10
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