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Spent all day watching basketball and painting this. Got a little sloppy towards the end, but who cares; looks tight. 
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Mar 21, 2015 09:06
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SirJoeKCB posted:This looks fantastic. Did you do anything special for the water? I love the way that came out. Nope, same as all the rest of my Dreadfleet. A splotchy layer of Minitaire Royal Blood, dry brush reaper sky blue followed by VGC wolf grey. Also, forgot I painted these guys while more interested in basketball, waiting for washes to dry, or really tired of painting endless gold trim, rings, and cannons. First time painting bones. It's kind of a pain in the rear end. 
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Mar 21, 2015 19:16
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gilljoy posted:Anyone have any recommendations for good scenic basing tutorials? Bark mulch, snow flock, dead grass tufts. Good to go.
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Mar 22, 2015 15:56
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Nebula red is my favorite red ever. It should be a very bright, saturated close to true red. That said the minitaire line is not exactly consistent from batch to batch, so who knows what yours looks like. Shake the poo poo out if it then do some tests and see how it looks out of the bottle. Also, I'd prefer to go over a white basecoat for the vast majority of minitaire. It does not cover well.
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Mar 23, 2015 06:53
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The best thing about painting Dreadfleet is the endless detail that no one will ever see or notice, lovingly painted by me. 
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Mar 25, 2015 21:08
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JoshTheStampede posted:Is there any One Weird Trick to two brush blending on larger surfaces? I'm trying to learn to hand blend stuff instead of easymoding with the airbrush all the time. It's pretty easy on small areas but larger ones come out blotchy. I mostly 2 brush/ spit/ feather on medium sized surfaces. For large surfaces I wet blend then refine with glazes. For smaller surfaces I layer then glaze.
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Mar 28, 2015 20:10
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   This one was frustrating because like all the dreadfleet it has to be painted before assembly, but it fit together especially poorly. The lines weren't as sharp as the other models, and the sails are made at different angles, which looks kinda janky. I'm pretty sure I put it together right. There aren't any official photos head on.
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Mar 30, 2015 19:48
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God drat.
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Mar 31, 2015 05:48
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People don't use future because it's cheaper. They use it because it's better.
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Apr 3, 2015 00:00
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Blackchamber posted:I just did a little googling on that subject and I have seen many articles saying that it is possible to add too much water to acrylic paints as to make them break down, for example: http://painting.about.com/od/acrylicpaintingfaq/f/FAQthinacrylic.htm Sort of. Acrylics essentially form a film. Too much water will absolutely weaken that film. They still work, but that film is going to be relatively fragile. In miniature painting we kinda need to break some rules. We need really high contrast blends over incredibly small areas while not obscuring the sculpted detail. The best way to do that is using really thin layers, far in excess of the recommended no more than 50% water. As long as the pigment is ground fine enough and we're taking steps to mitigate the fragility i.e. future chat then this isn't a big problem.
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Apr 3, 2015 12:45
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For what it's worth, I really like the way Reaper paints behave under heavy dilution as well. I haven't to this point taken much advantage of that because I haven't had the patience to really put a lot of time into a display level piece yet, but that's one of my goals for this year/ next oath thread. 1 display piece a month.
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Apr 3, 2015 13:20
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You mean streakiness or transparency? Streaks are usually from too much paint on the brush, but it's going to happen to some extent regardless. Certain colors, I'm looking at you purple, are more prone to streaking, but as always the solution is more thinner layers and going back over transitions with a glaze of the previous color.
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Apr 3, 2015 13:29
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Yes, gravity feeds make a big difference. I love my Sotar a lot. It's just a ridiculous precision instrument, and when it goes on sale at amazon for $80-$90 it's almost a criminally good deal. That all said. I probably would have quit airbrushing if it was my first brush. It's not a forgiving brush, and only after a year did I have a good system in place for its finnicky nature. That's after airbrushing for a couple years before the sotar.
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Apr 4, 2015 03:02
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Airbrush medium. I use liquitex, but I think golden is very similar. I use airbrush medium for basically all my thinning that isn't water. For washes I add flow improver as well. Full discloser though, I just thin with water 95% of the time now. Gareth Gobulcoque fucked around with this message at 05:06 on Apr 13, 2015 |
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Apr 13, 2015 05:02
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An inspiration as always. I've recently been highlighting black with greys then glazing them back down with dark reds and purples. I like the effect. Of course I don't have any pictures.
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Apr 20, 2015 05:26
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If I'm doimg normal sand + ballast, I wait for the pva to semi set then gently press the mini down onto the base to form a little countour. Well that's how I do it when I care. It does look better but normally not enough for me to bother with for rank and file troops.
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May 3, 2015 18:37
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JoshTheStampede posted:VMA Gun is great but it's a lot darker and bluer than Boltgun was. VMC Gunmetal is the best replacement I've found, though I hear the Scale75 metallics are great. Scale 75 metallics are super legit, but there isn't a direct boltgun replacement there either. VGC gun metal is really close color wise, but ughhhh vallejo metallics that aren't air. But, I've thrown off the shackles of gun metal and do all my true metallics in scale 75 and golden fluid acrylics now. And then promptly ruin them by varnishing over them.
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May 6, 2015 16:17
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w00tmonger posted:Im thinking about doing a conversion for this guy, and going mad max with some of my cavalry. Where could I find an appropriate motorbike/alternate mount? ideally as mad max as possible while still representing the same model. I picked these up at 90% off. I can send one to you. They are on , I think, 60mm bases in the pictures, so they should be plenty big. http://www.wildwestexodus.com/outlaw-blackjack-vehicle-set-3-models-light-support/
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May 30, 2015 16:07
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w00tmonger posted:Definitely interested if you want to sorry something out. Sent you a pm Emails exchanged. Gareth Gobulcoque fucked around with this message at 01:49 on May 31, 2015 |
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May 31, 2015 00:55
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Oath thread xxxpost   I really wanted to focus in on female skin tones, because they've given me problems in the past. Guys are easy because you can just go full bore contrast and it'll look great. Girls require a more delicate touch so they don't look like body builders. Turned out a lot better than it has in the past.
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May 31, 2015 21:50
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jodai posted:That is some really subtle work on that lady. Really great. Thanks. I'm planning to paint all of the Goblin Town box at some point, not sure on the timeline. Probably before the end of the year.
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Jun 1, 2015 02:01
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OATH THREAD XXXPOSTGareth Gobulcoque posted:OATH COMPLETE
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Jun 28, 2015 19:42
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That's amazing.
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Jun 28, 2015 20:42
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  Man, I liked painting this got a lot. Everytime I paint in this cartoony style I don't know why I don't do it more often. The Rackham studio painters had this very weird low key, low contrast nmm that I found pretty hard to replicate. I really like the cartoony feel of the mellow nmm though.
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Jul 7, 2015 16:41
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Pierzak posted:Vallejo Liquid Gold: airbrushable or not? Yes. It's really nice through an airbrush. You'll have to clean the bejesus out of it afterwads though so you don't get rust.
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Jul 9, 2015 18:45
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BULBASAUR posted:How's it rust from 90% alcohol? Not the airbrush, the paint. After you thought you got it all, but whoops missed a spot.
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Jul 10, 2015 02:24
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Paranoid Dude posted:So, I'm a serious painting nub, just getting into the hobby and all, how important is medium to thin paints? I'd prefer to use water (because it's cheaper and I won't notice a difference at my skill level) but how much of a difference does actual paint thinner do? I thin with water. It's fine. Preferable even. I hate glaze medium. Matte medium and me, well that's a complicated relationship. Airbrush medium is cool though.
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Jul 10, 2015 05:23
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Painters tape, blue tac, liquid frisket, tamiya tape, whatever mask, best practice is to lay down a thin coat of gloss especially over airbrush work. A lot of times they'll be fine without it, but it sucks when they're not. I've had all of them pull up paint.
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Jul 13, 2015 23:22
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Generally, adding in glazes of turquoises, teals, and/or purples will give a subtle magical or otherworldly feel.
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Jul 14, 2015 13:11
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My heart really wasn't in this one 
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Jul 16, 2015 22:35
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Partial Octopus posted:Whats the consensus on Reaper paints? I love them. You can thin them really far without ever running into problems with grainy or splotchy finish. Presumably because of such fine pigment size, I have less trouble running them through my airbrush (with thinner) than any other brand including VMA and Minitaire.
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Jul 18, 2015 23:08
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Definitely with thinner (straight airbrush medium). But properly thinned I have fewer issues with them than my actual "airbrush ready" paints, which I don't have a ton of problems with but more than the reaper.
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Jul 19, 2015 01:23
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Not to intrude on chocolate baked goods chat but, the last of my oath.Gareth Gobulcoque posted:And my Theme + Technical this doofus with the flag of my home state, one of my favorite places on earth, Kentucky. I don't know what's in those crates and barrels, but it's probably booze and guns.
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Jul 21, 2015 01:47
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That's legit great. Like even a step up from your normal stuff.
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Aug 16, 2015 03:09
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Hauki posted:Uh, some dude someone linked to in a different thread specifically regarding imperial assault painting. He had a tutorial series on those figures in particular. https://www.youtube.com/user/Sorastro/videos for reference. Fair enough though, I'm sure I can find analogous colors etc. I'm about to paint up ImpAss next month. I watched a couple of that guys videos. He's got a lot of bad habits: overloaded brushes, not taking colors to opaque/ poor basecoat, haphazard washes, that glazing... Yikes. Those poor sable brushes. If you really want, watch a couple of dr. Faust painting clinic or something. Somebody probably has some good youtube recommendations. Mostly though just paint. Litko sells clear bases for ImpAss in all the different sizes you need. There are cheaper places, but that's the most convenient.
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Aug 25, 2015 22:04
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Iron Crowned posted:Quick crosspost from the Warmahordes thread. What is everyone's take on the P3 inks and washes? The couple inks I have are incredibly strong. Like artist grade ink strong. Which is fine and often very useful, but why not just buy a pot of artist ink for the same price and 3x more ink at that point.
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Aug 26, 2015 16:29
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Oath Thread XXXpostGareth Gobulcoque posted:OATH COMPLETE I thought the two fire familiars that weren't speed painted turned out pretty good.
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Sep 1, 2015 00:58
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That's really great. Nebakenezzer
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Sep 1, 2015 16:13
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For many people, myself included, the only difference between a filter and a glaze is application. In my experience, these are the same people who don't use any mediums in their glazes. Just water. For competition quality blends it's sometimes a lot of water to a little paint, which is why I like reaper paints because they don't seperate under extraordinarily heavy dilution, or as Jessica Rich calls it: water with the memory of paint. The European's call it juicing. This is also why I don't paint to competition quality, because it's tedious as gently caress. Or at least why I haven't yet. None of the terms are really standardized within the hobby, a lot of blending terms get jumbled up to. Ratios and mediums and diluteness and flow and transparency are all things you kinda need to see what works best for you. There are a lot of paths to the same end.
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Sep 16, 2015 00:25
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I have an artists grade wet palette, it'll keep paints liquid for literally months. It won't be usable, but it'll be liquid.
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Sep 16, 2015 19:49
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