Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Traditional Games > Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

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signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Silhouette posted:

If your dudes all share a common color that takes up a majority of the model, get a cheap airbrush and compressor combo for basecoating everything.

Cheap being the operative word, assuming you're willing to clean it and if you break the needle you replace the whole drat unit. If you're basecoating, detail doesn't matter, so you can have it be spattery or whatever, doesn't matter a bit. The cheapest airbrush will give you a better single color basecoat than the best brush in my experience.

# ¿ Mar 18, 2017 16:36

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# ¿ May 8, 2024 22:35

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Pierzak posted:

Still cheaper than any but the simplest of parts for a decent airbrush.

Absolutely. Just don't be like me and try to get the needle out by pushing the tip instead of grabbing pliers and pulling from the back end.

Not my smartest day

Edit: I'm still looking over what I need to get a painting workshop done. What's the easiest paint to work with, in your opinion? Like, for absolute newbies? Something pre-thinned maybe? Any suggestions for paint that does not need to be additionally thinned, but has good coverage. Doesn't need a huge selection, just stuff for basics.

signalnoise fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Mar 18, 2017

# ¿ Mar 18, 2017 18:04

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Neurolimal posted:

It still needs to be thinned, but Tamiya is an incredibly generous paint for airbrushing, and is one of the cleanest spraying acrylics available. Also very cheap thinner.

Vallejo sells a line of airbrush paints; I haven't tried them yet, but a lot of people swear by Vallejo in general so they're worth a look.

Also you probably know this, but never thin paint you intend to airbrush with water; that works fine with hand painting because its easier to control how much paint you apply to the figure, but with airbrushing its possible to very easily pool paint due to water making it harder to build paint up in a wet area.

Well the idea is to supply paint, brushes, and minis to absolute newbies. I'm trying to contact Reaper about it but they're hard to get a hold of, so I'm looking into options for just supplying the poo poo internally. Given that these are newbies, I was thinking I could buy some paint, thin it CORRECTLY myself, and put it into lil 5ml droppers, and distribute.

# ¿ Mar 18, 2017 18:54

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

I would like a technique that makes painting low-detail areas as easy as painting detailed areas. Like how I can put silver on a bunch of chains and put ink on it and wow, depth. Thanks in advance

:negative:

# ¿ Mar 19, 2017 16:50

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Pierzak posted:

Do normal highlights but add glaze medium to paint, 1:1 volume. Bam, 3x better smooth highlights without blending.

I love this thread.

# ¿ Mar 19, 2017 20:02

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

In my experience Bones takes highly pigmented paint best. Reaper HD etc

# ¿ Mar 20, 2017 21:50

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Avenging Dentist posted:

Having read the paper (I don't have access to it anymore unfortunately), I can confirm this. But then again, nerds on the internet just use the Dunning-Kruger effect to act superior to other people so...

This is some Dumbing Cougar poo poo right here

# ¿ Mar 21, 2017 21:32

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

HebrewMagic posted:

Just spit mouthfuls of paint at all your models and say they're inspired by Pollock

I recommend Spitadel brand saliva for your paint thinning needs

# ¿ Mar 21, 2017 22:17

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Cat Face Joe posted:

Is there a dece US friendly place for 28mm modern or futuristic accessories? Looking for some bags and/or little tech baubles.

What materials are you comfortable with, and what is the application? Are you using this as scenery, on a base, or on the model itself?

# ¿ Mar 22, 2017 18:35

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Gravitas Shortfall posted:

He's that dude that scammed the art world into buying random paint splatters, right?

Not quite random

https://arstechnica.com/science/2015/02/computer-algorithm-can-accurately-identify-jackson-pollock-paintings/

# ¿ Mar 23, 2017 11:53

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Cat Face Joe posted:

Any material is fine. These would be for Infinity miniatures and to identify certain units as paramedics or carrying the devices for expanding infowar range. Medic bags for the miniatures, tech baubles for the bases.

Zinge makes stuff like that, and you can buy it from the US, but they are based in the UK. Anvil does too I think.

# ¿ Mar 23, 2017 11:58

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Ilor posted:

What this tells me is that we now have an algorithm that can be used to perfectly replicate Pollock's style. The guy who wrote this software is probably already creating forgeries. The fact that he released the source code means that now you too can create forgeries.

Recognition and replication are very different things

# ¿ Mar 23, 2017 20:01

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Model Color also is the opposite of durable, depending on which color you get. I get the impression that they seriously are for modellers who have a tank on a stand that will be airbrushed and varnished before being touched.

# ¿ Mar 31, 2017 15:49

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Geoff Zahn posted:

Cool, thanks. I'm painting WH40k stuff mostly, so I'll probably lean towards game color more. Which one has the superior metallics? Or does GW still win in that category?

There's a more expensive line of metallics called, shockingly, Vallejo Metal Color, which has its own varnish. It's great.

# ¿ Mar 31, 2017 15:54

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Chill la Chill posted:

I don't know why you wouldn't want to varnish your models first if they're meant for game use.

I don't mean before game use, I mean with most paints I can put down a base coat, pick the thing up and do brush painting, and the paint doesn't just rub off if I haven't varnished it right after the base coat. With Model Color, in my experience, that poo poo just rubs right off if you touch it without it being varnished.

# ¿ Mar 31, 2017 16:42

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Kabuki Shipoopi posted:

Molotow Liquid Chrome pen comes in 1mm, 2mm, and 4mm sizes.

All the graffiti sites I went to were out of stock, and on a whim I went to Nankin Hobby (Michigoons, downtown Farmington Hills) and they had them for $11 a piece. The flatter the surface, the better the results. You can actually see yourself in the reflection. It's nothing like c-1 metallizer, but it's vastly better for small details like armor trim and such.

Is it alcohol based or what

edit: Looked it up, yep it's alcohol based. Have you compared it to Montana Black silver ink?

# ¿ Mar 31, 2017 20:09

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Kabuki Shipoopi posted:

Not the black, but the hardcore silver yes. This stuff isn't even silver, it's like painting with mercury.

Ok holy poo poo

Can that stuff be harvested for brush use? Have you tested its ability to hold a varnish, or is this purely for a final coat?

# ¿ Mar 31, 2017 22:32

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Anyone have any experience with something like this glue applicator?

http://www.creativedynamicllc.com/the-glue-looper.html

Looks cool, I dunno how useful it would be for general minis use, but I could see it being good. I'm tempted to buy some and try em out.

# ¿ Apr 1, 2017 18:29

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

berzerkmonkey posted:

Your post just serves to reinforce my opinion that these models look way better when painted in a "normal" steel armor color. The GW "Solid Gold" scheme is absolute garbage.

It's actually just anodized aluminum

# ¿ Apr 3, 2017 19:21

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Wirth1000 posted:

This seems like a silly question but what's the easiest and most efficient ways you guys use to transfer your paint pots into those eye dropper/paint droppers?

Take the nozzle thing off and pour it in, and use a little mixer spoon thing to scoop out what I can. What remains is simply lost. I just pour it right in from pot to dropper. I've tried using a tiny funnel but it's honestly just not worth my time to save a miniscule amount of paint when there's going to be loss on the funnel itself anyway. Just be careful and pour kinda slowly.

# ¿ Apr 7, 2017 05:15

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

An actual weedlord

# ¿ Apr 10, 2017 04:59

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

I just found this site and it kinda owns

http://www.colourpod.com/

# ¿ Apr 10, 2017 05:58

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Yeast posted:

I dropped my 105 once and skewered my thigh.

I mean, in the grand scheme of miniatures hobbyist injuries that's pretty light

When I first started, I shaved a bigass block of white metal off the back of a squad full of Warzone minis that was supposed to be a mounting point for flags, and eventually I jabbed the tip of a hobby knife directly into the tip of my thumb, and just thought "well at least it's a clean cut so it'll heal faster"

# ¿ Apr 18, 2017 15:04

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Chill la Chill posted:

Any tutorials on making faux stained-glass effects like the picture below?

All the tutorials I've found are how to do it via glue or some other barrier for normal sized stained glass. And this style isn't exactly stained glass. I forget the name of the famous work but it's also a popular instagram/prisma filter. I assume it might just have to be done with freehand, even on the larger spaceship models, but was wondering if there was at least an easier methodical approach.

Seems to me like what you'd want to do is make a very basic color scheme, where you assign major areas a specific color for a broad stretch of it, then split those areas into 2 or 3 analogous colors per area.

# ¿ Apr 22, 2017 16:47

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Anyone here have experience with the paints from https://turbodork.com/ and could you tell me if they are easy to work with? I am intrigued by the prospect of little bottles of acrylic color shift paint

# ¿ Oct 25, 2020 20:03

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Dienes posted:

You can use them with a paintbrush but if you want it to be a smooth coat like in that image you really need to use an airbrush with them.

Right on. Just needed to know they weren't weirdly gloopy or somethin

# ¿ Oct 25, 2020 20:54

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

w00tmonger posted:

Turbo dork is the poo poo. Work with an airbrush and work with multiple thin coats.

Prime over a gloss paint, if you don't have it like me lay down some varnish first. It doesn't photograph well or if show it off here

If you want to take it to the next level, you can zenithal with other colorshifting paints of theirs apparently. You can throw washes on it too apparently if you specifically use stuff like the gloss nuln oil, but if you go non-glossy wash il kill the effect. Don't neglect turbodorks non-colorshifting metallics either. I bought purple people eater from them and it's fantastic

Well drat. Thanks for the heads up, I was turned onto this from someone who doesn't do any minis stuff or anything like that to my knowledge so I didn't know it was so good. gently caress yea

Sounds like I basically need to treat it like an acrylics version of Alclad, which is pretty cool. Actually, I have some Alclad II black gloss primer, do acrylics work on top of that? I tried my hand at chroming and it did not go well and was very stinky and labor intensive once I got past the priming, so I still have the supplies after giving up on that.

signalnoise fucked around with this message at 03:34 on Oct 26, 2020

# ¿ Oct 26, 2020 03:30

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

How much can silly putty be reused anyway? Or do people just buy lots of silly putty as a disposable resource like liquid mask?

# ¿ Oct 28, 2020 13:25

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Harvey Mantaco posted:

Lots, and it's cheaper than dirt at the dollar store.
Once you get more control n you'll have to mask off less anyway.

This helps me, thanks. There are apparently many things out there that seem like a fairly annoying expense just cause the way to do it cheap is not immediately obvious

# ¿ Oct 28, 2020 13:31

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Koopa Kid posted:

if you're using exclusively acrylic paints there's no benefit to nitrile from a safety perspective.

There is one very specific example that can be given regarding nitrile gloves for miniatures that could swing a purchase decision by itself alone- cyanoacrylate will bond latex gloves to themselves drat near instantly, but nitrile gloves take much longer so you can separate your fingers, let it dry real quick, and keep going. That alone is enough to get me to buy nitrile instead of latex.

# ¿ Jan 18, 2021 21:19

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Skails posted:

Is this a reference to Goldfinger cause that rules

# ¿ Feb 18, 2021 05:55

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

StashAugustine posted:

Hey, decided to celebrate a new job by seeing if I like this whole miniatures business with a Flames of War Soviet rifle company. Couple questions- first, how long does it take for The Army Painter primer to dry? Second, I accidentally twisted the head off one of the officers, does anyone know what kind of glue is good for that brand?

According to their website https://www.flamesofwar.com/Default.aspx?tabid=53&art_id=5615, they use a flexible ABS plastic that does not bond with plastic cement, and they recommend cyanoacrylate. In my experience, most people use BSI or similar (or rebranded) CA-based superglue. There are adhesives that will do a chemical bond, but there's no need to get into that when you can use more traditional bond strengthening like pinning, if CA isn't good enough for you.

# ¿ Feb 26, 2021 23:58

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

That is some kind of hosed up displacer beast if I've ever seen one

# ¿ Sep 2, 2021 15:56

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Silhouette posted:

I hold the model in my teeth and paint while staring into a mirror

I just use an elaborate miniature-holding device that I made out of a steadycam

# ¿ Sep 18, 2021 22:56

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Bottom Liner posted:

Link?

If what you are looking for isn't that specific set, but just some nice laser cut MDF scenery, I would recommend Death Ray Designs.

I haven't ever heard anything bad about them, and when I wanted bases that were slightly larger that their listing, they gladly made the adjustment and custom cut my order. They use both MDF and acrylic, and honestly I think that how it fully buys into the "easy and quick to make" terrain with colored plastic bits is great.

https://deathraydesigns.com/

edit: Also, I have to mention that regarding the bases I was talking about, I loving love that product. They have a variety of paintable base inserts, but not made of resin. They're cut from thin sheets of acrylic and you punch them out of a sheet and sometimes layer them. Not only is this extremely cost effective relative to resin bases (if you're the type, like me), but it also provides much more flat area on top, which I find useful for attaching the mini to the base.

Anyway don't wanna be a shill but when it comes to laser cut and 3D printed minis stuff I feel a thing about this product relative to other products.

signalnoise fucked around with this message at 10:11 on Sep 28, 2021

# ¿ Sep 28, 2021 10:03

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Ugleb posted:

Awhile back someone was looking for bad rear end ladies not wearing thongs. Saw this in another thread so thought I'd signal boost it:

Definitely Not Damsels - Bad Squiddo Kickstarter

punishedkissinger posted:

thanks!

Check the Bad Squiddo website for stuff too if this hits the spot. They have plenty of models in other themes, like post-apoc wastelanders and women in ww2, that they had kickstarters for previously and now just sell as part of their normal line. They've got lots

# ¿ Sep 29, 2021 23:45

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# ¿ May 8, 2024 22:35

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

On the subject of buying a whole range, kickstarter etc, I did this with Badger's Minitaire line when it had just come out. I was super eager and made some poor financial decisions. I tried all the paints and what I found was that they varied in quality a lot, and they had some properties I was not expecting. For example, using minitaire over certain metallic paints (or those paints with minitaire as a base) would cause the upper coat to bead up like water on rain-x. In the end, I did find some paints in there that I think are really good and that I would want in any kit. On the other hand, a lot of that stuff will be covering terrain.

# ¿ Sep 30, 2021 22:38

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Traditional Games > Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

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