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Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

I picked up a Masterson's wet palette when I was getting some brushes, and I have no drat idea why they bothered to include palette paper with it. Paper towels and parchment paper work so much better, It's not even funny.

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Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

I feel like GW really nailed the feeling of not being able to tell what the hell kind of color Death Korp Drab is. Just try to guess which parts are it.



Also this is the first time I'm painting anything in two decades, I'm still trying to figure out how to properly thin paint, and probably not even using the brush properly.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

It's the boots and the neck/head thing.

The armor is castellan green which is, yeah, indistinguishable from death korps drab under the right lighting conditions.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

IncredibleIgloo posted:

Death Korps Drab does a pretty good job at German Fieldgray in a pinch.

:thejoke:

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

It's less noticeable how short Tau are when all you see are their big mech boys.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

how do you hold miniatures or parts without a base? Is it just wire, tack, and cork?

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Contrast paint sounds like a huge pain in the rear end to use, because apparently the medium used in it likes to separate from the pigment and you have to shake it a ton before trying to apply it.

Otherwise it comes out thick and shinny as I found out.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Well I could be wrong, the citadel paint I got is incredibly shinny and I have no idea why.

Searching the internet said that's because they separate, so I assumed that's true.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008



I just thought about trying it out because I have no idea where to go with this paintjob.

It feels like it needs another layer of paint but not sure which color, or even what effect to aim for.

Then again I didn't even know what contrast paint was supposed to be when I picked it up on a whim.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Yeah I keep forgetting to pick up some brass colored paint for details.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Virtual Russian posted:

edit: nvm, there are contrasts in there I think...

There's only Astra Militarum Green contrast on the pants and jacket.

As mentioned I only picked it up based on the name and had no idea what it was. After I did a quick search on what it was, I decided to see how it would work as a second layer on top. I'm mostly happy with it but was surprised with how shinny it made those parts look, which was unexpected.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

So I'm looking at this and...

I need to do details on helmets and shoulder pads? They don't even have big convenient borders like space marines, it's just a flat edge.

Also boots, boots are important, especially if they contrast with the base.

And like only half of the face is visible at best, tip of the nose and the mouth.

Dunno, maybe tone down the guns a bit with a dark wash and add some shadows to them.









Going to have to figure out how to do terrain on bases at some point in time.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Hulk has the same benefit as Orks. If you get the general colors and shapes right nobody can tell which parts are wrong and which ones are supposed to look like that.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Bucnasti posted:

This is the starter set I recommend to people. It has all the colors you need to get started. Then pick and chose any extra colors you want depending on what you're painting.
https://a.co/d/7n85Jem

lol, with discount it's still cheaper to order the same set from US than from Canada.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

I've been avoiding painting stuff for the past three days because the only thing that's left are smaller details and I keep smudging stuff and making mistakes and having to go fix up parts I already painted.

Edit:

Ok, that's it, first mini done in 20 years.



That's as much effort and money as I'm willing to put in at the moment. Now I just need to paint up 30 more guardsmen in the same style and that will be most of the combat patrol done.

Lostconfused fucked around with this message at 07:15 on Nov 16, 2023

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Yeah I'm having fun, felt really jazzed when I felt like I was "done".

Spending too much money on painting supplies though.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

The christmas boxes being sold out at local retailers make it pretty easy to not buy more, you could call that an upside.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

You can always get a big air brush to spray your primer, after you thinned it enough.


As for me, I'm a bit mad that brush makes can't keep this poo poo consistent.



As I understand it the smaller brush in numbering is actually bigger, why the heck is the whole cotman line a size bigger.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

How does brush-on primer work? Can you get a thin enough coat without drowning out more detail?

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Nebalebadingdong posted:

these brushes are sooo teeny. doesnt the paint dry almost immediately on them? my preferred brush size keeps going up even as the minis get smaller
I just started painting a week ago, I'm a big baby that knows nothing.

So I have no idea if my paint is drying too quickly or not. I'm just aiming for smaller brushes now, because I keep making mistakes when using a bigger brush and splotching paints on other parts of the mini that I already painted.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Right now I'm using a bunch of cheap synthetic brushes, so they all cost about a third or a fourth of a real sable brush. So I ended up with 8 or something whatever brushes instead of 2 or 3 really good ones.

But also yeah you're right they don't have a big belly and don't hold water and paint. Or more like they do hold it but it all ends up in the tip so the paint comes out splotchy.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

I feel like watery paint is more likely to clog detail because it and the pigment would flow into the recess instead of creating a more even layer.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Most of that doesn't sound all that necessary or a problem for plastic citadel miniatures.

Edit: I did see mention of plastic needing to be cleaned and prepared before painting, particularly if you've got your greasy prints all over it during assembly. But that doesn't seem like all that much trouble to deal with.

Lostconfused fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Nov 17, 2023

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

I will definitely top coat my minis with a varnish when I'm done. I've already seen some paint chipping on the edges, even on primed ones, and to fix up the slight sheen the citadel contrast paint leaves on them.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Ravus Ursus posted:

People sleep on artist tools and resources for bespoke mini specific stuff.
I think in part this is because there's a lot of tutorial videos and guides on places like youtube that only mention citadel or mini specific stuff.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Nebalebadingdong posted:

your stuff looks good for just starting out! i wouldn't worry too much about the brush size for now, focus on fundamentals and getting comfortable with it all


when i started doing 10mm and smaller scales, i used a W+N series 7 size 0. it was nice, but the brush seemed to go bad quickly and they cost too much money to constantly replace. eventually i got a da vanci maestro size 1 series 10 and it was sooo much better because it has longer bristles. now im using the da vanci maestro series 35 size 1 and the brush looks gigantic next to the minis, but it holds a perfect point when its wet. i love it

longer brushes can hold more paint and you're less likely to get paint too high on the brush (which is what fucks them up)

I picked up a Series 7 size 2, and it feels completely different from synthetic brushes. I agree that you don't "need" one of the fancy brushes to paint a mini, but if you want to copy all those youtube tutorials and do what they say you should do, you need one of those brushes. It does feel like the brush and paint just flow over the mini when you use it, and it remains more pointy even after you load it up with paint.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

liquitex is also a registered trademark now, so legally troublesome too.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Thanks for the history lesson. Sounds like everyone should have called it acrylic primer when looking for a generic name. As primer is also a generic term, unlike gesso or liquitex.

Edit: I've started reading about primers on Friday and I'm still not sure what makes them a primer. At this point the most distinctive feature I've heard is the chalk in gesso. While everything else sounds like acrylic + medium + pigment, so same thing as acrylic paint but maybe mixed in different proportions.

Lostconfused fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Nov 19, 2023

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Virtual Russian posted:

Gesso isn't a brand.

That's because nobody was clever enough to invent a patent office at the time of its creation.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

This is what my Series 7 looks like almost brand new, there were three bristles sticking out of place out of the package. Which was a bit disappointing with it being an expensive premium brush, but using it was very satisfying.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

I almost want some more new minis to paint. While I think the generic armymen look for 40K Cadians is about right, it's not very exciting. I'm also at the part where it's all painting minor metallic details along with other bits and bobs, and fixing up whatever mistakes I made.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Really appreciate you painting the straps and buckles on the back of the tank that nobody will ever see.

Because I think about it every time I see the backpacks on my guards minis.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Realizing I shouldn't paint late into the night as I start to make a ton of mistakes.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008


two week progress report

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Skin and eyes, I frikin swear, just, ugh.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

So does nobody drybrush highlights anymore because it's easier to use translucent paint and go in reverse order?

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Also just realized you have to make sure to snap the citadel paint cap at the back. Because it doesn't easily close there, and then paint pools and dries up making it even harder to close. Starting to think these citadel paints aren't very good.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

I'm having fun dry brushing. Picking the right color for highlights is difficult though.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

I'm just experimenting with what I have.

Death Guard Green on top of Death Forest Green seems straight forward, even though I think it could look better.

Ushanti bone on top of Vallejo Khaki seems decent enough.

I'm just trying to figure out if I have anything that will go with the Castellan Green for the armor. It's closer to black/grey than green, so I don't think I have any other green paint that goes along with it without being too contrasting.



Heck, I'm not sure any of it even matters from a tabletop viewing distance.

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Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Ok, I've spent 3 weeks messing around with these guards, and I'm calling it on these 12. There's a bunch of mistakes and undone parts, but I just don't care anymore. It's time to move on.

I'll practice adding some terrain detail on the base, and then they're done.

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