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Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Varnish is usually one of the last steps though, because it does give the miniature or a model an even finish similar to a wash. And as mentioned it helps hide some uneven surface shade stuff like decals or fine sanding marks.

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Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Sigh, random bits of cork barely look like stones or rocks if you're lucky.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Well, yes, that's extra work I might have to do at some point in time. But between that and the very light brown "mud texture" paint I've ended up with a very desserty sorta look. So now I need to figure out how to do make it more grassy looking besides just painting the sides of the base in green.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

I am starting to want to get a new set of minis just so I have something else to paint with a different color scheme.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Nebalebadingdong posted:

god i love licking that brush

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

They all look fine, use a darker wash/shade for the recessed/shaded areas.

Except that one in the middle in the third picture, yeah the highlights don't match the base coat there.

Edit: But maybe my standards are lower.

I tried painting a face properly for the first time and I think it turned out alright



None of the mistakes are obvious at mini scale and blend in together well enough.

No hat and exposed eyes do make it harder thou.

Lostconfused fucked around with this message at 14:34 on Nov 28, 2023

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

notes for future reference, avoid touching very good looking yellow minis, got it.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Is there a quick/easy explanation for getting the correct amount of paint on the brush for dry brushing? Or what condition the brush needs to be in for it?

I love it when it works, but I've had trouble getting the right amount of paint on the brush to do it and seem to end up with maybe too much a lot of the time.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Sounds like you can use anything, just need to test the brush before applying it to any model.

But if you want to get fancy you pretty much take a piece of surface and make a bit of terrain out of it with a bunch of bits, sand, or whatever you can think of glued to it, or painted with texture paint, and then you prime it black or whatever.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

It's surprisingly relaxing when you don't give a poo poo about how something looks

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Anyway, I can't get the contrast paints to do a consist coat which makes all the dry brush shading seem pointless.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

So I was looking up great coat colors and I stumbled on something.

lol, spot the differences

https://cracdeschevaliers.blogspot.com/2010/11/painting-british-infantry-part-2.html



And I still have no idea what color to paint the officer's coat in even though it makes up like half the miniature.

edit: Also Cadian tanks are based on British North African campaign, which explains all those Leman Russ desert camo pattern ones.

Lostconfused fucked around with this message at 16:15 on Dec 2, 2023

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

The "texture palette" thing really helps for testing to see if you still have too much paint on the brush or not.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Is it me or is the vallejo grey primer more of a not-white primer?

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Bo-Pepper posted:

Still working on my Ork combat patrol. I almost like the primed look good enough to leave it alone.

Models look so good in black and white gradient highlights, until you start ruining it by putting more paint on top.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

I do prefer the lighter shade of green that citadel goes with for orks.

The army painter orc skin is a bit too intense for me.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Someone give me a different color for this great coat that isn't the ugliest shade of beige that games-workshop picked for Cadian's. The raised areas and curves make for an excellent surface to drybrush and make it look like leather, but it just doesn't fit the aesthetic imo.



the secondary color for cuffs would be nice but unnecessary because I'm just probably going to do it monotone since it's easier.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Sounds like solid primer, if you don't mess up applying it.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

That mean's you're not looking closely enough to notice the flaws, or looking at your own a bit too closely.

Also you don't know exactly how much time and effort went into making them look like that.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Is it me or does the Vallejo grey primer look white?

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

How do I get the paint thin enough for glazing without it pooling into a single drop when it leaves the brush.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

After a month of messing around with miniatures, I'm not a big fan of the Citadel spray can primer.

The chaos black I got goes on real nice and easy but it doesn't hold the paint as well as I would like.

Several of my painted miniatures had paint rub off as I was working on them with the black primer layer showing through the base coat.

Hopefully Vallejo does a better job.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

As long as you're having fun is what matters.

I bought a combat patrol box more than a month ago and I'm still painting those miniatures.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Dark grey base and then green grey highlights?

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

After transferring 20 pots to dropper bottles, I think I'll make sure to buy paint in dropper bottles in the future.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Ugh, have to always base coat in midtones.

Always looks like poo poo when another paint is in contrast with black or white.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Byron always goings into detail about how he does washes https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wXkiCJ_xfus&t=215s

There's some brush techniques that you can use besides simply slopping it on.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Cleaning an air brush is pretty simple, it just takes a bit of time, but I think you need some kind of exhaust because you don't want that primer spray floating around and going everywhere inside your work space.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Well, planes do need a good coat of paint.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Magnetizing is pretty easy, I just started doing it a couple of weeks ago.

You need a pinvise and the correct sized bits, but that's enough.

You'll definitely end up putting holes in stuff, so maybe practice a bit on things you wouldn't mind damaging too much.

You can hide mistakes and flaws, so it's not the end of the world but I did make a bunch of mistakes that made the process messy and time consuming.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Man, I do not handle disappointment well.

Lose all motivation to keep painting when something starts to look wrong or I make a big mistake.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

I keep trying to paint some Custodes and I keep being unhappy with the color schemes I'm trying or some other reason.

I thought I'd give them a shot because they're a small army that would be easy to paint but I keep making myself unhappy painting them.

Starting to think I picked them up for the wrong reasons and I should let this idea go for now.

Because when painting the guards I have, it's mostly fine. There's one or two models that I keep redoing or ignoring because of some issue, but most of the time I'm satisfied with how they end up looking.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Spanish Manlove posted:

Ok, so what are you unhappy with and what you you want to do instead?

Aniodia posted:

Well, if it helps, I've got a couple of photo posts in the thread of my Custodes Kill Team, and can get more if you want the inspiration. However, I'll second the
I'm trying to do some kind of black base with golden details color scheme instead of just all brass/golden look. With a third color for detail.

And I keep running into various issues where either the gold doesn't look right, or the third color doesn't seem to fit well into the color scheme. I've tried purple first, but red probably looks better.

https://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Dankanatoi

versus

https://www.goonhammer.com/codex-adeptus-custodes-9th-edition-the-goonhammer-review/img_0871_small/

another color scheme that looks decent to me is



but it's also way more complicated because it's kind of a brown monotone with lots of variation in lighting and shades. I'm not sure how I would paint something like that.

Lostconfused fucked around with this message at 15:08 on Dec 27, 2023

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Decided to go the opposite way and try it out this way



Need to do a bunch of shading to add some depth I think.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

It should be fine if the brushes can be formed back into a fine tip after you wet them.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Well, silver isn't supposed to rust like iron, realistic.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Personally I found seeing pros painting to be very helpful because it shows how much time and work goes into the process and I know I don't put in nearly as much into doing any of this.

This of course doesn't work when people pull video trickery and just cut out various parts of the process and make it look like a step that took 10 minutes happened in 40 seconds.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Well, a dark grey basecoat seems like a good starting place.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

I think I'd be happy if I could develop an eye for light and shadow and color composition.

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Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

When priming do you go for 100% coverage or "it looks mostly covered"?

Mainly asking because priming grey rustoleum on grey plastic and I can't loving tell without putting the miniature right in front of my face under bright light.

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