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Here's one to maybe include in the OP, since I think a lot of people have trouble with fire at first. Fire color theory, and the follow-up fire practical application.
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Mar 19, 2015 00:06
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Medium Style posted:- What gloss varnish is recommended? Preferably something brush-on, I don't have an airbrush. Related but counter: I'm looking for a varnish suitable for putting through an airbrush. Any recommendations?
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Apr 2, 2015 18:16
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Guys I wanted to do some special effects so I tried to airbrush some quikrete onto some minis but now my airbrush doesn't seem to be working. The needle seemed a bit stuck so I put some vice grips on it to try to loosen it up, doesn't seem to have helped. I also tried cleaning it with bleach and ammonia, but that didn't help and I'm not feeling so hot this evening so I think I'm just going to go lie down, but do you have any recommendations for what to do next?
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Apr 3, 2015 00:10
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moths posted:No household chemical any sane person would shoot through an airbrush will irreversibly destroy metal. My home is a meth lab.
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Apr 3, 2015 02:39
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I've had good luck with testors sprays on foam.
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Apr 7, 2015 02:57
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I'm thinking about taking an old palm sander, mounting it upside down, and attaching a little paint bottle bracket to the plate. That'd probably mix the poo poo out of anything even vaguely paint-like in pretty short order. And those things are a dime a dozen on craigslist.
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Jun 10, 2015 22:10
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Gonna crosspost this wall of  I wrote because I know there are a lot of people that do casting in here and this thread gets more traffic than the terrain thread:Bad Munki posted:Question about mold design. I have a couple pieces I'd like to make some molds for. Using moldmax 30, it's a tin cure. Going to be casting plaster (or merlin's magic or whatever it is I have 50 pounds of, I can't remember off the top of my head.) I used some hirst molds to cast some parts, which was great, and then I used those parts to make bigger parts, with the intent to just keep casting those few components and assembling them into the structures I want, but I've decided it'd probably be smarter (and look better) to just make a single, monolithic part, and then fix up all the seams to look way nicer, and cast a single terrain piece all as one. Pretty basic stuff, really, I'm just wanting to graduate up to the final piece instead of futzing with assembly/cleanup of seams between parts on every terrain piece.
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Jun 27, 2015 19:03
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Rahotep75 posted:Thoughts on the wood? Would.
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Jul 7, 2015 02:58
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w00tmonger posted:Anyone have a good guide to color theory? Want to do a good job picking a scheme for this new legion army for warmachine. Want to tie the whole thing together basing wise etc Hot pink, neon green, and just a touch of safety orange. No blending or shading, just flat colors. That's all the color theory you need.
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Jul 7, 2015 14:18
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I'm gonna cross-post this here because I think this is also the modeling/sculpting/whatever thread? I dunno.Bad Munki posted:A little while back, either in this thread or the mini painting thread, someone posted a little video demoing some mdf blocks with magnets in them, for the purpose of modular terrain I think. Well, I decided to rip that idea off unabashedly, and so here's what I've got. Sorry for the handheld footage.
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Jul 9, 2015 20:52
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40K Calories
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Jul 18, 2015 22:30
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Haven't painted for a while but the latest shipment of bones has me jonesin', so I did this guy tonight. He's okay, since it only took like an hour and a half, maybe two hours, but I'm not really stoked about the result. Any advice for my scary monster man?     Please excuse the poo poo pictures, I know they don't help but I haven't gotten to set up a mini booth for pics since moving. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 05:05 on Jun 2, 2017 |
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Jun 2, 2017 04:34
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On that note, I just discovered that my local hobby shop has a FULLLLLL line of Vallejo paints. Model color, game color, air color, and all the extras like inks and washes and primers and everything. Fortunately I've got buttloads of regular paints from reaper but man, it's hard not to go nuts and load up on the air colors, ughhhhh. I bought the metal air colors but stopped there for now. I'll probably not be able to stop myself from going back for more though.
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Jun 11, 2017 02:34
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I'm gonna stick with my ample collection of reaper paints for brush work, I like 'em, but they have more options of vallejo's air colors than I have paints altogether. I really don't need to double my paint collection! But I want to. So bad.
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Jun 11, 2017 04:48
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Amazon is definitely my go-to for Vallejo. Am I looking at the wrong thing or are you actually paying $6-7 per bottle?  They were $3 and change locally the other day. Now I'm curious what everyone normally pays for Vallejo.
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Jun 12, 2017 04:33
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Bottom middle is pretty good too, but I like the blue lighting effect on the bottom right.
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Jun 18, 2017 23:41
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A tiny dot of that blue tack poster putty?
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Mar 8, 2018 20:13
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BULBASAUR posted:That's my lovely blog. I haven't gotten to read the rest but that linked post is a good post, it's just the right amount of angry sass.
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Mar 9, 2018 02:25
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I'd done the zenithal basecoating before but hadn't tried just throwing a wash on after. Holy crap, it is like god damned magic on scaly dudes. e: early wip, but: 
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Mar 9, 2018 |
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Mar 9, 2018 19:20
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Lethemonster posted:Would anyone be interested in some airbrushing videos, like how I painted all my screamers and phoenixes? Yes do this.
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Mar 10, 2018 01:11
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Can someone talk at me about inks vs washes? I’m just not getting the differences and use cases.
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Mar 10, 2018 21:20
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Okay, then what about reaper’s “liner” line of paints? Wtf is even going on there? Because they sell washes as a separate thing like everyone else. e: Sounds like maybe they’re just washes/inks, but more opaque/intense and maybe formulated to more aggressively hug recesses? I dunno. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Mar 10, 2018 |
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Mar 10, 2018 21:54
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I’ve been wanting to paint this dude for a while so tonight I finally decided to just knock him out. I’m trying to focus more on just getting guys done than making them perfect, I think that’s been blocking me from even bothering to paint for a while, so the goal was just “get it done.” Even so, I’m pretty happy with how he turned out.   I think it might be fun some time in the future to put some tufts of grass on him, but for now I’m calling him done enough.
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Mar 11, 2018 04:12
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Zark the Damned posted:Reaper Minis Large Earth Elemental - https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/stone%20elemental/latest/77185 Thanks, I actually had no idea except “it came from one of the bones boxes” 
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Mar 11, 2018 16:11
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Yeah, that sinkhole is sex on a stick, it looks so drat good.
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Mar 20, 2018 16:05
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goodness posted:I'm doing this for ~30 marines but I don't have corks. Checked my local online markets with no luck. You just need corks? Premium Recycled Corks, Natural Wine Corks From Around the US - 50 Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XZ54BO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0Wm1Cb1MN7X9R
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May 10, 2019 01:56
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super sweet best pal posted:Was eyeing some glow in the dark paints but thought it'd be too impractical a joke to get any payoff out of. When would I be gaming in the dark? A black light will make glow in the dark paint light up weirdly bright, even in an already-lit room. You just need to augment the undoubtedly lovely lighting in your dungeon.
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May 16, 2019 19:56
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Lighting effects are always an A+ maneuver. Hell yes. Small suggestion: make it throb a liiiiittle slower, and don’t go all the way off, do like [25-100%] Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 03:58 on May 22, 2019 |
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May 21, 2019 23:06
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I haven't posted here in forever, but here's a WIP I thought you all might like. Basically, I will put lights in any tabletop thing at all given the option. Sometimes, that works out okay. This guy has a TON of space inside and really easy access to a few points of interest, so how could I not? Two 5mm through-hole neopixels, controlled by a bluetooth LE module, so I can control them wirelessly from my phone. The whole thing powered by a little lipo pack that’ll live inside the body. (In this pic, I'm powering it from an ancient and decrepit Uno because it was a handy way to grab 5V)  I can’t find any boost converters and logic level shifters at the moment, so the lights are stuck on blue at full brightness for now until I can order some.  When it’s done, I’ll have presets to make the eyes flicker like fire, or pulse at various speeds, or perhaps psychedelic rainbow rave mode?  With the lights off, the eyes just look like bottomless sockets, which also works super well for this particular Tabletop Barbie. Next up: knock out his mouth-hole and figure out how to get smoke coming out of it, or maybe through a couple of his shoulder/head stumps. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 04:42 on Jul 4, 2019 |
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Jul 4, 2019 04:35
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I'd like to jump on board the "it's been a while" train, although for me I think it's been literally years? Anyhow this thread had literally 20,000 unread posts. So anyhow, I got all my stuff out and got all excited. Painted a bar maid to get my brushes wet, and then went right for the jugular with a 15' tall automaton with some self-illumination, something I had never tried before. I have mixed feelings about the results, it works from some viewing angles, others less so. I'm happy with the heat vents themselves, and I think without the glow I wouldn't be, so maybe it's just necessary, even if the execution was meh. Still, I'm jazzed to be painting again at all.      Wench for scale:  Would happily take any thoughts or tips on these two friends. As always: the camera, she is a harsh mistress. For the big boy, I airbrushed Vallejo air gun metal as a base coat, and then did a brighter shinier metal as a zenith thing, then just absolutely loving doused him in nuln oil. Dry brushed Vallejo air rust on (I used the air variant as it went on thinner, acted more as an oiled bronze tint), and then put some of the Citadel verdigris stuff on where it felt right. Hit all the bolts and greebles with some brighter gold, and then attempted some yellow/orange glow from his rib vents and face plate holes. Touched up a few places with more of that rust/bronze tint to tidy up.
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Mar 14, 2023 19:45
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My paint set is like 2/3 reaper thanks to their bones kickstarters that I can’t stop buying in to.
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Mar 14, 2023 23:26
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Ravendas posted:Yeah, most of my paint is reaper, though I just bought all of the Vallejo Xpress contrast/speed paints. After my recent experience with the Vallejo Air metallics, I plan to go pick up a bunch of those in various colors ASAP. So nice.
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Mar 15, 2023 03:49
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So for my next effort, I decided the Mystic Circle bones set would be an easy, large grab. I was gonna do the standing stones as generic limestone or granite or something, but then I was like, what if obsidian? So I primed them with a real glossy black and, well… That’s a piece of actual obsidian in the top left there for comparison. I think this might be amazing and definitely different from all the other takes I’ve seen on this set. I’ll weather them up a bit and maybe some other stuff, wondering about some kind of glow tinting from the bottoms of the stones? Will have to experiment a bit.
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Mar 15, 2023 07:29
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Bad Munki posted:So for my next effort, I decided the Mystic Circle bones set would be an easy, large grab. I was gonna do the standing stones as generic limestone or granite or something, but then I was like, what if obsidian? So I primed them with a real glossy black and, well… I think I like where this is headed. Spent some time experimenting tonight with a few things. From up high, normal table top viewing angle, they look pretty much plain shiny black, like the chunk of obsidian I compared them to before. Maybe a faint tint in places:  But from down low, or looking straight on a face with the light behind you, or a precious few other angles, they absolutely light up and look like they’re made of I-don’t-know-what, oil or something? And of course the effect varies continually based on viewing/lighting angle.  I’m going to experiment a bit more with topcoats and potentially weathering them a bit in places so they’re not so clean and perfect, but I think it’ll be an interesting, exotic base to work from. This was achieved by way of two airbrush applications, one for each of these:  First the black, which is awful for normal work, as it tends to dry with a lot of gloss. But for putting under anything that will be shiny, metallic, iridescent, or pearlescent, it’s amazing. Plus it’s cheap and ready to go! Then the color shift stuff. It comes absolutely thick as tar and just transferring any to a dropper bottle for thinning to airbrush consistency was a chore. I have some other brands that provide a similar effect, they weren’t near as bad, but I couldn’t find them this time, so I grabbed this instead. In this application, the blue ends up nonexistent, which is good. Both came from hobby lobby, which is less than ideal, but there it is. e: If anyone has any tips or ideas how I might indicate some weathering on these without completely ruining the current effect but also without it looking out of place, I’m all ears. No clue how I’m going to accomplish that. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 07:43 on Mar 16, 2023 |
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Mar 16, 2023 05:38
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grassy gnoll posted:YMMV, of course, but my gut instinct was to get some pigments on them near the base, both to anchor them to the ground portion of your circle and to make the top parts look completely detatched and otherworldly. Oooh, I like the idea. Maybe something like this?  Reaper stone grey air brushed on for a really nice gradient, and desert stone dry brushed for the weathering. I really love it! In person, that shimmery purple black has some real depth to it, and the matte stone tones really accentuate that at the boundary, makes them seem almost translucent. Makes it look much more like the stones were placed and something was done to them, rather than them being imported as-is. Needed to put the grey on a bit thicker at the bottom to really mask the glass, but that’s easy to adjust. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Mar 17, 2023 |
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Mar 17, 2023 03:27
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grassy gnoll posted:Very much like that. That looks extremely sweet. Hmm. My thought was less that it was dirt creeping up the stone, and more that the conversion hadn’t made it all the way down, like the ground acted as a heat sink for whatever process took place or is still active. I’ll definitely continue to experiment with it, though. But either way, I love the suggestion and results, so thanks 
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Mar 17, 2023 16:40
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Good god Vallejo’s Air line is just so upsettingly good. I’d been using the Air metallics and it was obvious they’re god-tier but I’d been using my regular paints thinned for normal stuff and it was fine, but I’d still get grain in my gradients. Grabbed a couple normal Air colors today and there’s just…nothing? It’s flawlessly smooth? The fade is perfect, zero grain, perfect coverage, just drop some paint in the cup and go. Someone talk me down from blowing like two hundred bucks on a bunch of tiny bottles of paint. What’s the deal with their Game line? It looks like they have matching tones in game color/game air, is that about the long and short of it?
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Mar 18, 2023 08:29
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You can’t fool me, that’s an AI-generated image.
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Mar 20, 2023 02:15
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In either case dry brush it with some UV poo poo and put a black light somewhere in the room, oof
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Apr 6, 2023 15:34
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moths posted:That's pretty much what I did: Hell yeah
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Apr 6, 2023 18:30
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